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Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas

Alan Applegate (K0BG) on October 2, 2009
View comments about this article!

Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas

L. B. Cebik, W4RNL (sk); "It is a fascinating arena of trying to squeeze the last ounce of available efficiency from largely undersized antennas."

Background

Those of you who subscribe to the ARRL publication QEX, will probably recall the series of articles by Rudy Severns, N6LF. The articles contained a lot of empirical data with respect to vertical antennas, and their requisite ground plane requirements. If you haven't read the articles, you should, as the data is rather enlightening. Copies of the articles may be downloaded from Rudy's web site.

These articles were not aimed at the mobile operator, but the data does explain the ramifications of an inadequate ground plane under a vertical antenna. Suffice to say, the lossier the ground plane, the lower the efficiency, and that's exactly what we have in a mobile installation; a very lossy ground plane. I should point out that any vehicle is an inadequate ground plane at HF frequencies. Fact is, the body of the vehicle acts as a capacitance to the surface under the vehicle, which acts as the ground plane, albeit a very lossy one.

An important point needs to be made here. The body of the vehicle is a much better conductor of RF, than the surface under the vehicle. When we mount the antenna low, on a trailer hitch mount for example, a goodly portion of the return current is made to flow through the surface under the vehicle which increases ground losses. If we mount the antenna higher, atop the quarter panel say, more current returns through the body, so ground losses are reduced. Even so, ground losses in a mobile installation are much higher than those encountered in a typical base station installation.

Adding a lot of insult to mobile mounted verticals, is the typically low Q of the loading coils, and short lengths. Fact is, few amateurs really understand just how inefficient an HF mobile antenna system is. In the worst of cases, efficiencies are less than 1% (80 meters), and in the best of cases, about 80% (10 meters). It seems the only specific attributes which count are low SWR, short length, and ease of mounting. When they're lucky enough to work a few DX stations, then the worth of their choice is confirmed, and any discussion about efficiency is summarily dismissed.

The July/August 2009 issue of QEX, contains a follow up article written by Bob Zavel, W7SX, entitled Maximizing Radiation Resistance in Vertical Antennas. Part of the article covers top loading. Top loading is a methodology which increases radiation resistance, hence efficiency, even if the ground plane is substandard; seemingly a ubiquitous vertical antenna shortcoming. This article is also a must read especially if your urban bound!

The conclusions at the end of Bob's article are well founded. Of specific importance are the following points. To paraphrase: The radiation resistance (Rr) of a vertical antenna is a function of the physical height (overall length), and the current distribution along that linear height; The efficiency of a fixed-height antenna can be optimized by orientating the maximum current point at the half way point (height) of the antenna; Series and parallel losses (ground losses and stray coupling losses respectively) are always present, with series losses the most severe; Lowering of ground (series) losses, and raising radiation resistance will result in higher efficiency, but the latter is easier to accomplish.

These conclusions support the thought that reducing ground losses, and maximizing radiation resistance are the two paramount objectives in achieving maximum performance from a base station vertical. Or from an HF mobile antenna!

Let's look at the things we can do to maximize efficiency in a HF mobile antenna.

Ground Losses

Ground losses dominate the efficiency formula in any vertical installation, but it's of particular importance in a mobile environment. Unlike a base station, we don't have the luxury to add more radials. What's more, the notion that adding ground straps to the mounting hardware will somehow replace, enhance, or rectify the ground losses are anecdotal. It is true there must be a solid connection for the currents to return to the source, but beyond bonding and a proper ground connection for the coax shield, there is little we can do.

Digressing for a moment. Whether the encountered losses are serial or parallel, they appear as part of the resistive portion of the input impedance. As such, they cannot be measured qualitatively (broken down into their individual parts), but we certainly can measure them as a whole. All it takes is a relatively inexpensive antenna analyzer. To make things simple, we're combining the serial and parallel resistive losses together, and calling them ground loss.

Further, the resistive portion of the input impedance also contains the radiation resistance; the only good loss an antenna has! Here too, we can't separate it out from the other losses encountered. As a result, we have to be careful about making assumptions based solely on changes in the resistive component of the input impedance. This point will become glaringly evident later on.

As alluded to above, mounting the antenna higher up on the vehicle will reduce, but not eliminate, ground losses. The problem is, few amateurs are willing to drill holes, make custom brackets, and the other prerequisites necessary for minimizing ground losses. Perhaps if they had a better understanding, they might think differently. Certainly the aforementioned articles are a very good place to start. Here's some additional food for thought.

The calculated ground losses for an average vehicle vary from about 2 ohms on 10 meters, to about 10 ohms on 80 meters. However, the real world losses can easily be double this amount. The factors which cause the loss have already been discussed. The only alternative we have, is to move the antenna as high as we can on the vehicle, albeit we have to contend with the localized conditions (low trees, wires, etc.). This said, we also have to keep as much metal mass under the antenna as possible, and we have to keep the antenna close to this mass. That is to say, mounting antennas atop long brackets is counterproductive.

The question remains, why is ground loss so important? If you've read the aforementioned articles, you'd already have an idea of the answer. From this author's empirical experience, the noted difference between low mounting (trailer hitch, bumper, etc.), and high mounting (atop a quarter panel, bed rail, etc.) is typically 4 to 5 dB, or about what you would achieve by adding a mobile amplifier.

But the truth is, you can't make a pat statement unless you consider all of the variables. In a mobile scenario, any specific calculation has to include the antenna's coil losses (Q), the location of the coil (base, center, etc.), and even the conduciveness of the surface under the vehicle.

Digressing again. As stated above, ground losses dominate the efficiency formula. However, in some cases coil losses become dominate. A case in point are the various, short and stubby, HF mobile antennas which have become all the rage; their coils have rather low Q ratings.

If you design an HF mobile antenna carefully, you can achieve a coil Q averaging about 300 as mounted in (on) the antenna. On 80 meters, a well-designed, center-loaded coil with a Q of 300 will have a resistive loss of about ≈12 ohms. Combine this with an overall length of about 7 feet, and a ground loss of 12 ohms, and the radiation efficiency is about 3%. That's 100 watts in, just 3 watts out!

One with a coil Q of 50 will have a resistive loss of ≈72 ohms! Combine this with an overall length of about 7 feet, and a ground loss of 12 ohms, and the radiation efficiency is just .7 %. That's 100 watts in, just 7/10 of a watt out!

Incidentally, these figures are straight out of the ARRL Antenna Handbook.

Radiation Resistance

Few amateurs have a grasp of radiation resistance, but Bob Zavel's, W7SX, article does a good job explaining the factors involved. We'll take a more simplistic approach, and say; the effective radiation resistance of an HF mobile antenna is directly related to its overall length. A length, incidentally, which is fixed by practicality in our mobile-in-motive environment. From that standpoint, an overall length of 13 feet is about the maximum, with just 10 feet being the mean average.

Based on this maximum length, and remembering our paraphrasing above; The efficiency of a fixed-height antenna can be optimized by orientating the maximum current point at the half way point (height) of the antenna, we're left with moving the current maxima up towards the top of the antenna. One way to do this is to use center loading, rather than base loading, but there is more we can do.

In his article, Bob discusses using supporting guys to top load a vertical antenna, which will indeed move the current maxima up. Unfortunately, like adding radials, this isn't a luxury we have in a mobile environment. We do, however, have an alternative, albeit with a few of its own drawbacks. Enter the Cap Hat.

Cap Hats

Properly placed, capacitive hats, sometimes referred to as top hats, increase the capacitance of that part of the antenna above the loading coil, thus moving the current maxima point towards the center of the antenna which in turn raises the overall radiation resistance. It does this without other adverse effects save one (wind loading), but only if it is positioned correctly.

Digressing once again. Whatever capacitance any given cap hat adds, is the same no matter where it is placed. However, whether or not a cap hat increases the effective length and/or increases the radiation resistance and/or increases overall losses, depends on where (how high above the coil) the cap hat is placed. For example, when placed too close to the loading coil, the capacitance can have a detrimental effect on the coil's Q, and will indeed produce an increase in the measured input impedance. For example, the left photo depicts a cap hat incorrectly installed. The input impedance and bandwidth will indeed increase in this example. However the changes are due to increased coil losses, and not by an increase in radiation resistance (Rr). Therefore, the following assumes the cap hat is mounted at the very top of the antenna, and thus the noted increase in input impedance is a positive one, not a negative one.

I have owned, and used, four commercially-designed cap hats. Every one of them has had a major drawback, besides the acknowledged wind loading. Universally, they're too small to be truly effective; they're all designed to be mounted too close to the coil; their solid mounting hardware, albeit short, can have a negative effect on an antenna's structural integrity; and some of them are too expensive. I wanted something better.

The Design Stage

WheelAny design concept should have clearly stated objectives. In this case, there were criteria which needed to be satisfied. An increase in the radiation resistance was the prime goal, followed closely by wind loading, weight, and ruggedness. There was one more criterion, and that was the ability to operate from 80 meters, through 17 meters. The reasoning will become apparent as we continue.

Every commercially available cap hat, is designed to be supported atop a short, solid shaft. Since the prime goal was to increase radiation resistance as much as possible, the cap hat would have to be mounted at the very top of its support structure. Using a solid shaft as a support would put the antenna in peril should the cap hat hit a low-hanging limb. This meant the support had to be flexible. Hence, the winding loading and physical weight become a critical factor.

The incorrectly-installed cap hat above left, consists of just spokes, with no outer rim, while the drawing at right shows one with a rim. Based on empirical testing, cap hats without this peripheral connection, have an effective length approximately 60% of their diameter, depending on the mounting height above the coil. In comparison, a cap hat with the peripheral connection, has an effective length nearly twice the cap hat's diameter. Here too, the maximum effect depends on where (how high above the coil) it is placed. Put another way, adding the peripheral wire increases the cap hat's effectiveness by nearly 4 times, but only when properly mounted.

There's a hidden factor at play, and that's the frequency of operation criterion. As mentioned above, a properly implemented cap hat, including its support structure, will increase the effective electrical length of an antenna. If the effective length is too great, the maximum usable frequency criterion (17 meters in this case) won't be met. As anyone can clearly see, it's a mixed bag of tricks, with clear limitations.

Cap HatWith the help of Ken Muggli, KØHL (an excellent machinist and draftsman), several different designs were tried, and compared. One design was cone shaped, and another was shaped like a wire-framed flying saucer (I live in Roswell, NM after all). Both of these designs were rejected for various reasons, primarily wind loading and weight. After about a dozen different attempts, the design shown in the left photo was settled on, due in part to its relatively low wind loading, and overall light weight. The rest of the story is truly serendipitous.



The loops are made from 1/8 inch, 17-7 stainless steel wire, purchased from Small Parts. Their standard length is 60 inches overall. These were inserted into a hub laid out, and machined by Ken, as shown at right. Plans for the hub may be downloaded here. The support structure, a stainless steel whip actually, requires an explanation.

There is just one supplier of 102 inch, 17-7 stainless steel whips, no matter where you buy one. They start out life as rolled wire, about .210 inches in diameter. The wire is straightened, and ground into the common size, and shape we all know. Starting at approximately 60 inches from the base, the wire is taper ground so the tip is .100 inches in diameter. A swaged brass 3/8x24 fitting is attached to the bottom, a small chromed, brass tip is added at the top end, and your standard 102 inch whip is born.

Strictly by accident (I really hate to admit that), the optimal position along the whip, where the cap hat is mounted, is exactly 60 inches! All of the criteria was met: The maximum usable frequency coverage included 17 meters; Wind loading was slightly more than the whip alone, and the assembly doesn't oscillate in the slip like bare whips tend to do; The total weight of the cap hat, and hub is 10.5 ounces; And it did increase the apparent radiation resistance.

Incidentally, during empirical testing, the effect of any whip protruding above the cap hat, was rather small. In view of this, and in effort to keep the height low, it was eliminated. And for the record, the total combined weight (cap hat and shortened whip) is 23 ounces (7 ounces more than the 102 inch whip).

The Results

The antenna in question is a Scorpion 680, mounted in the bed of my Honda Ridgeline. Photos are located here. The empirical testing was done by comparing the cap hat design against an MFJ-1956; a 12 foot, telescoping whip.

As we know, a full quarter wave vertical antenna (no loading coil), mounted on a vehicle, should have an input impedance, at resonance, of 36 ohms plus whatever ground, capacitive, and resistive losses are present. Using the aforementioned whip, it is possible to resonant the Scorpion 680 on both 20 and 17 meters, with the coil fully collapsed (fully shorted out). So resonated, the unmatched input impedance on 20 meters was 40 ohms, and on 17 meters, 39 ohms. These measured figures, using an MFJ-259B antenna analyzer, are very close to the theoretical input impedance, plus the calculated ground loss using the formulas published in the ARRL Antenna Handbook.

Here's how the (80 through 17 meters) comparisons were done. Once the antenna was at resonance (X=Ø), and the unmatched input impedance measured, the cap hat was removed, the whip installed, and then extended to the exact same resonant point. In all cases, the R value was slightly higher (two to four ohms) with the cap hat installed, when compared with the whip. This is close to the accuracy fuzz of the MFJ-259B. One might then argue that the difference was capacitive loading to the body of the vehicle (extra loss), or a slight increase in radiation resistance (a little gain). Either argument is moot, perhaps. What isn't moot, is the 42 inch reduction in the overall length (height) of the antenna. The height is now under 13.5 feet except for 80 meters, which for most folks is a worthy goal.

As stated above, the cap hat, when mounted 60 inches above the fully-collapsed coil, resonates the Scorpion antenna on 17 meters. The unmatched input impedance measures 43 ohms, or 4 ohms better than the equivalent whip. The reader can draw his/her own conclusions.

Alan, KØBG

www.k0bg.com

Member Comments:
This article has expired. No more comments may be added.
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by WW5AA on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Great information as usual Alan. I'm waiting for the guy that mag mounted his ham stick to come in and tell us that all this stuff is not necessary. He can work anyone he hears (:-)

73 de Lindy
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by N2RRA on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Alan,

Once again you've done it. In fact between Cebik and you I've modeled my mobile after you guys. Any chance I get I always refer your site to others who strive for the best mobile signal especially when it comes to
hybrids.

Thanks for another great article!

73,
Eric
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KG4RUL on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Well, not quite what Lindy wanted to hear but, I mag mounted my Lil Tarheel II with a DX Engineering Cap hat and I can work any station I can hear. :)
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KI4SDY on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
How could you work a station that you couldn't hear?

A very interesting antenna design, but the hub looks challenging to machine for those who don't have the expertise and metal working equipment. Maybe this is an opportunity for a new antenna company to spring up?
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by AD4U on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Have you heard any stations?
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by WV4L on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I took a look at your install pics Alan. I'm curious as to how far back the cap hat bends back at highway speeds?
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by AC7KZ on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Don't use Mag Mounts for hf antennas. Get the guts and cut holes in your car! HI HI HI.
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by K9CTB on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Excellent piece yet again, Alan. At first glance, I thought that hub might be commercially available. Nice job!
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by WA1RNE on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Here's how I minimized ground losses with my HF mobile installation back in the 70's:


http://www.dealsonwheels.com/Search/Detail_more.aspx?id=00687652E03&photo=6


At 18.75' in length, my ground plane was longer than required for a full quarter wavelength on 20, with a total surface area of almost 131 sq ft.

My Yaesu FT-101B sat in a homebrew wood stand on the passenger side floor.

The antenna was a Hustler bumper mount with a choice og Hustler or Waters loading coils, for 75-15 meters. (When bumpers really were bumpers.)

Granted propagation was much better than today, but I was able to work DX regularly with this arrangement especially while hill topping - and in close to living room comfort.


.... WA1RNE
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by W4VR on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Good suggestions for the guy who is either on the road a lot or is unable to operate from home for one reason or another. Some of your suggestions may also be useful for the ham who can only put up a short vertical at home with no room for elevated or ground radials...apartment or condo dweller for example.
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by K0BG on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I didn't make the hub, Ken Muggli, KØHL, did that. He owns a clockworks company, and machines his own parts, so this was an easy job for him.

At about 75 mph, the whip and cap hat bend back at about the same angle as the whip alone did with a 1 inch corona ball.

Incidentally, there is no corona ball needed as the effective ends of the antenna are rounded. And, I haven't noticed any more, or less, static problems.

I put serious thought into having a 100 of them made, and even got a quote from the machine shop. I priced the raw materials from Avins, and others. The bottom line is, it would have to sell for about $65 to make any money off of it, and I thought that was a little steep.

Alan, KØBG
www.k0bg.com
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by G0GQK on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
There would be a darned sight more RF being radiated by the figure of 8 antenna than the average mobile antenna. As good as it is, I don't think it would sell.

I understand the expression "I can work every station I hear", and there are always comments made about this. Look at it this way, there are thousands of radio stations in the world which you can't hear and you never will hear, even if you have a state of the art antenna !

Go outside and look at the stars, how many do you see ? There are millions of stars, there are so many in the night sky its just ridiculous, and even if you had a normal telescope you still wouldn't see them all ! Now change your telescope for an antenna !

G0GQK
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by WX7G on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Radiation resistance: For a physcially short antenna such as is described it is not that we want to raise the point of maximum antenna current, it is that we want to maximumize the "current-area."

The "current-area" is the current integrated along the antenna length. With a base loaded antenna having a current of 1 amp and a length of 8 feet the current distribution is triangular. That is, 1 amp at the base decreasing linearly to 0 amps at the top. The current-area is 1/2 X 1 amp X 8 ft = 4 amp-feet.

Now let's top load the antenna so that the current is uniform along the length. The current area is now 1 amp X 8 feet = 8 amp-feet.

The increase in radiation resistance is proportional to the square of the ratio of the current current-areas.

Going from base loading to top loading the radiation resistance has been increased by a factor of 4.
 
How do you get the "return current" in the soil?  
by KASSY on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I do not understand this:

"a goodly portion of the return current is made to flow through the surface under the vehicle which increases ground losses"

How would return currents end up flowing through the surface under the vehicle if there is no electrical connection between that surface and the antenna mount? Or are tires good conductors?

For a temporary mount once, I used a hamstick mounted to a metal plate on a step stool about 8 inches high...about the same height as a vehicle bumper. I ran out a radial wire ten feet each way. This was a really good DX antenna, I made 150 DX contacts over the course of the weekend on 20 and 40 meters (contest weekend), with a 2.5 watt QRP rig. SWR was bad, but I used a tuner to "fix" that.

It seems to me that this would count as "good enough" and a vehicle body is likely a better "ground plane" than my two little wires were.

It had not occurred to me that there was any "return current" in the ground under my step stool. Maybe some kind of lossy current, but there's no way for it to return to the radio, is there?

- k
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by WB2WIK on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Great article, Alan!

I'm not nearly the HF mobileer you are and only have an unmodified Hi-Q 5 series antenna, which did come with the "top hat loops."

One of these days, in retirement, it would be great to experiment some more and have the XYL and I go on a one-year or so RV trip all over North America. I'd include Hawaii in this except they didn't build the bridge yet.

73

Steve WB2WIK/6
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KD4LLA on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
The company I used to work for could spit out 100 of the hubs shown in an hour. It would take the drafter/machine operator longer to input the specs. But $65 per is a good price...
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KJ6BSO on October 2, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I wonder if sacrificing a bit of the durability and corrosion resistance of stainless steel by making the hubs out of an aluminum alloy might not result in a hub that's both lighter and less expensive. Some aluminum alloys hold up to weather pretty well and are easier (hence, cheaper) to machine. Anodizing is also a possibility, although that might end up less cost effective than just making the thing out of stainless.
 
RE: How do you get the "return current" in the soi  
by W8JI on October 3, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
<<I do not understand this:

"a goodly portion of the return current is made to flow through the surface under the vehicle which increases ground losses"

How would return currents end up flowing through the surface under the vehicle if there is no electrical connection between that surface and the antenna mount? Or are tires good conductors? >>

You will have the answer when you find out the answer to these three questions:

How does alternating current get from one plate to another in a capacitor?

How does current get from primary to secondary in a transformer?

How does current get from my antenna to the antenna of a station in China?
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by W8JI on October 3, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
One word of caution.

The real part of impedance at the base is NOT proportional to ground loss resistance plus radiation resistance like many people think. We cannot measure base resistance and determine ground losses. It won't always work.

For example I can not measure base resistance, move my antenna to a new spot on the vehicle, and determine if efficiency improved. I especially can not tell what the efficiency is.

This is because the entire system has standing waves on it, including the ground path in the vehicle and around the vehicle. If I move the antenna from one place to another on a vehicle and base resistance goes up (or down) I really have no idea if the efficiency increased or decreased. The same is true at home if I change the style of ground system, or length of radials in a system.

The only way to determine field strength is to measure field strength, the only way to determine efficiency is to measure it in the most direct way possible. Either certainly can not be determined only by measuring resistance change at one point in a system with standing waves. It just won't work.

Tom
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KC5MO on October 3, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
I have a very nice looking, great working and always improving,SAFE mobile station thanks to Alan. You must check out his website, http://www.k0bg.com/ , and there is tons of info for the ham on the go.
Great work Alan!

Herb KC5MO
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KE5KDT on October 4, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Very interesting. For a cheap experiment, braze or weld washers to the ends of the 60 inch wires, drill out the cener of a short bolt for the mast to go into or through, and drill and thread one or two set screws into the side of the bolt. Put on a nut and washer, the six wire washers, another washer and bolt, space out appropriately, and you are there.
Thanks for a great article. Bob
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by G6NJR on October 5, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
> Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas
> by AC7KZ on October 2, 2009
> Don't use Mag Mounts for hf antennas. Get the guts and > cut holes in your car! HI HI HI.

Here we go again some people just will not take the am TOTALY UNABLE TO CUT HOLES IN THE CAR statment for the FACT that it IS Unless of course that is you fancy signing to ownership of the repair bill when the vehicle goes back and they want the roof replaced !

Apart from that nice article

Pete G6NJR
 
RE: Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KL7AJ on October 5, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Alas.....a Buick Roadmaster just had a lot more ground ot work with. :)
 
Super-Uber AT1011 / 4545-1 Mobile Antenna Combo  
by KA4KOE on October 5, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
My attack on HF mobile efficiency is a planned Uber antenna. I intend on mounting a military AT1011 16' whip on my vehicle using a Shakespeare 4245-1 mount. For stationary operations, I'll mount the full 32' whip on the back of my truck, and deploy radials. I also intend on using a hitch mount, with as a much a rise style ball mount as I can find to get the bottom of the aerial as high off the ground as possible.

Hooo-AAA!!!

Philip
KA4KOE
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by KM5VI on October 8, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Thanks for the good article & comments. I want to reiterate that optimizing the efficiency of the antenna system, along with learning how to best utilize available Fresnel zones, contributes greatly towards making the most of mobile operating.

My observation is that the skin of most vehicles is relatively low impedance at RF (compared to what I might have guessed). Great comment about the Roadmaster indecently! I try to take best advantage of this by using a short, low impedance connection between the vehicle and antenna ground. As Alan iterates through his example calculations, even small losses add up quickly when the radiation resistance of the system is relatively low. High Q loading coils are the name of the game, and using an effective cap hat will reduce the amount of loading necessary for resonance, and thus the related coil loss, for a given radiator length. I run as much whip length as possible, 8 ft to 12 ft while in motion, and up to 20 ft while stationary. On the low bands, this has little to do with receive, but aids greatly in converting precious watts into RF instead of heat. Aside from the ground quality, I try to keep the series connections in the radiator circuit clean in the endless effort to maintain ohmic connections. Antenna mounting connections (road salt is not our friend), wiper assembly (service & clean regularly), and the whip connections are the pervasive maintenance items.

Positioning the vehicle for best performance makes a difference for me – often a couple of S units and/or the difference between above or below the noise floor. My antenna is mounted at the right rear of the vehicle. The radiation pattern favors the direction of the center of vehicle surface area (front left), albeit not cardiod style but more like concentric circles so the -3d pattern is wide. This proves out both through modeling and in practice, although the realized difference has been more pronounced than the models. I expect this is because I have only modeled the vehicle as a combination of stick elements that represent the outside boundaries of the vehicle. With respect to Fresnel reflection, I have come to learn where the good spots are along my daily commute, and they pretty well follow the published basics that we already know about. I spend a lot of time monitoring. So I look for positions that will generate an angle of radiation that corresponds to the probably angle of the signal I want to make (or hear). If I want to work long path it’s going to take a low angle – so I look for very high ground to park on, preferably well over the top of a highly conductive substrate, or atop the edge of an embankment. If I want to improve S/N by attenuating a particularly noisy direction, I look for some RF absorbing object to hide behind, then position my vehicle favoring the direction of the desired path. It’s actually both fun and educational to try to figure out how best to work a certain path on the fly.

Mobile is essentially my only mode of operating for the past 3 years (mainly DX), although I have been active almost daily on HF mobile for the past 10 years. Thanks again for the informative article and all the good comments.

Matt
KM5VI/M
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by N1LO on October 9, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Hi Alan,

Do you have any A/B field strength measurements to help compare any practical change in performance?

Having experimented with a variety of cap hats myself I can tell you that any design that can be hooked by an object is a disaster waiting to happen in a mobile application!

The occasional low tree limb event quickly progresses from a nuisance strike to an extremely destructive yank.

I believe that is why the commercial offerings don't use perimeter wires.

My experimentation has led me to the most trouble free capacity hat design: a single spoke, pointing to the rear of the vehicle.

In otherwords, an inverted L.

--...MARK_N1LO...--

PS: watch out for those trees! <grin>
 
RE: How do you get the "return current" in the soi  
by WA6BFH on October 21, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Hey, don't beat up on the girl, she is trying to learn!
 
RE: Super-Uber AT1011 / 4545-1 Mobile Antenna Combo  
by WA6BFH on October 21, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Hoo-ah!

Hows that big TV antenna doing?
 
RE: How do you get the "return current" in the soi  
by WA6BJH on October 28, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
One of the interesting things about vertical antennas is that they induce currents in the ground regardless of whether we put out a radial system. If we stick a vertical antenna on the ground and put power to it, current will flow in the antenna and in the ground. Because of this, we use radial systems to reduce ground losses. The wire has less resistance than the dirt. We can use insulated wire in radial system and it will work fine; the current is capacitively coupled into the ground. With vertically polarized antennas, currents flow in the ground even if we don't want them to. Ground currents also happen with horizontally polarized antennas, but it's not as much of a problem.

The same is true for mobile HF antennas. The antenna induces currents in the ground along with the ground currents that are in the car. This happens even if you're driving down the road. The currents in the ground are capacitively coupled back to the car and the antenna system, even if there's no "direct" connection. It should be obvious, however, that this is NOT an efficient coupling system, and this is part of the overall inefficiency of mobile HF antenna systems. There is little that you can do about this inefficiency.

Far field losses are another major problem with vertical antennas. These are losses that happen because of the ground conductivity within about 100 wavelengths of the antenna. On 40 meters that's 4 kilometers. These losses would probably swamp out any increase in efficiency at the vehicle, and because you're moving, they change constantly.

That's not to say that you shouldn't bother to have an efficient antenna, you should. What you put into the radiation resistance is the only thing that makes photons, and the photons get the signal out. But remember, keep the matter in perspective.

Kerry
 
Maximizing Efficiency in HF Mobile Antennas  
by TI2TL on November 1, 2009 Mail this to a friend!
Great article my friend. I can see that a lot of experimentation was done with the cap hat. Just one question, in means of signal what was the gain? Did you do some quick A/B testing to determine the gain over the whip?
 
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