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[Articles Home]  [Add Article]  

Your Ultimate Antenna Quest

Charles (KC8VWM) on July 31, 2004
View comments about this article!


Everyone is going to have their own "favorite" antenna story to tell you about as Radio Amateurs are always on a never ending quest to find the "ultimate" antenna.

… Well here is the story about mine.

According to the ARRL Antenna Book, a quarter wave vertical antenna with fifteen 1/4 wave ground radials may have an efficiency of only 50%; with fewer radials the efficiency suffers even more.

Efficiencies of short mobile whip antennas listed in the same reference are often only 10% or so - and that is with a car body as a ground plane. With a poorer ground it is even worse!

According to this principle, maximizing your HF antenna efficiency must then be mostly dependant on your ground, counterpoise or radial system.

To further clarify this point in question, finding that “ultimate” antenna may not necessarily depend on the antenna per se, but rather, the type of counterpoise or ground radial system that is attached to it in order to operate it at maximum efficiency. .

However, “what if,” we remove this aspect from the equation for a moment? That is to say, what if there was an antenna that does not require a ground radial system or counterpoise to operate at maximum efficiency?

Is there such an antenna design available? Surely, this must be quite a feat of high tech expert engineering and design. …Or is it?

I recently dusted off and opened the yellowed pages of one of my earlier editions of the ARRL operating manual that described the best multi band antenna to be extremely simple to build, erect and use.

The End-Fed Half-Wave Antenna (or EFHWA, pronounced "EFF-WAA") is not a new design by any standard, but after exploring all these newfangled portable antenna designs on the market these days, I decided to explore this classic antenna design a little bit further.

Why you might ask?

Apparently, this antenna seems to have several advantages over some of the newer computerized antenna models & designs currently on the market for portable HF operations today.

Let's explore a few considerations and benefits of using this “old” but “new again” antenna:

A) A single wire antenna - multiband coverage without a tangle of multiple wires.

B) Produces more gain than some traditional multi band dipoles.

C) Provides a more uniform and omni directional radiation pattern when compared to other multiband dipoles which tend to have more directional characteristics and less gain.

D) Is not as complicated to construct, erect or tune as a multiband wire dipole design seems to be. (Although an antenna tuner is usually recommended)

E) Is very lightweight to suspended (7 ounces) therefore is not as susceptible to wind and ice damage from storms.

F) Does not require any additional ground radial system or counterpoise. (Antenna efficiency is maximized without this being a requirement as discussed earlier.)

G) Very portable, fits in a Ziploc bag - Makes a nice "backpack" HF antenna. Can be erected in seconds flat!

I was listening to an Amateur located in New Jersey on 75 meters using one of these "end fed" antennas a few weeks ago. He was describing how he had this 100 watt portable HF station inside a "toolbox" case and it was connected to a small marine battery. He was operating his "homebrew" portable HF station temporarily from his living room.

He said he had an auto tuner installed inside the toolbox and it was connected directly to the end fed wire antenna.

The antenna he was describing was of the "portable" roll up variety.

He said he strung the wire outside his home, out the front door, and merely "flung" it up into a tree in his front yard in no particular fashion.

I was very impressed as he had a really big signal here in Ohio. It was a very Solid 40+ db signal - He never faded below S-9 ...ever! In fact, if he didn't tell anyone what he was using, I would have assumed that he was running 1 KW and a "big gun" beam antenna on a 100 foot tower.

… Not too bad for a "portable" HF station in my books.

After hearing this guy on the air that night, (I forget his call sign) I researched this antenna design a little further and found it described as "Possibly the best HF antenna" in the ARRL operating manual. (third edition 1987)

This antenna is not new by any means, but I often wonder if sometimes such simplicity may be the key to efficient antenna design & construction. There are no lossy traps or feed lines, and the antenna is easy to erect. They are very stealthy too. They can be drooped out a window in an apartment high rise, or installed permanently in an antenna restricted neighbourhood.

The following website described the end fed antenna as the following:

"The end-fed half wave (vertical dipole) routinely outperformed the horizontal dipole on <2000 miles paths by AT LEAST an estimated 6dB"

This versatile antenna can actually operate as many other antennas. It can be configured to operate as an inverted “L”, a sloper, a vertical, or even a half square. Each one of these antennas has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. The interesting part about all of this is you can have ALL of these antennas rolled up into one package for the grand total of $4.00 and a trip to the hardware store!

Most of the time, some of the newer portable antenna designs we use are intentionally simple, and because of this - they don't always put your portable and precious watts where they belong.

Most portable antenna designs today seem to be a good compromise and if nothing else they are small practical antennas for SW radio receivers.

My thoughts after hearing this powerhouse signal a few weeks ago out of New Jersey was that perhaps we are spending way too much time trying to reinvent the wheel. Perhaps it's time we place some serious thought into what many hams have already done so many years past. ….It worked well then, so why change it now?

Build this latest & top performing 1930's design and see for yourself !

Here is a good place to start:

Good Luck!

73

Charles - KC8VWM

Member Comments:
This article has expired. No more comments may be added.
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by CT2ILQ on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I have no experience with EFHW Antennas, but here are some links.

http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/fuchs_ant_.htm

http://www.qsl.net/oe3mzc/hlfewve.htm

http://www.g3ycc.karoo.net/endfed.htm

http://www.alphalink.com.au/~parkerp/nojun98.htm

http://www.njqrp.org/n2cxantennas/halfer/

http://www.njqrp.org/n2cxantennas/halfer/halfer.html

http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/3632

Relatives of the EFHWA:

http://www.iv3sbe.webfundis.net/html/multiband_antenna.html

http://www.hcis.net/users/kr8l/fptuner.htm

http://www.amqrp.org/projects/stluisvert/STLV%20Project.html

73
Paulo Ferreira CT2ILQ

 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K3AN on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
A 130' wire is a half wave on 80 Meters and a multiple of a half wave on 40, 20, 15 and 10. I had such an antenna at my last QTH. The first 40 feet or so went more or less vertically up into the treetops, and the remaining portion was a flattop lying over the treetops. Tuned with a SGC autotuner at bottom end, and worked against just a single ground rod, this antenna performed very well on all bands. With its high feedpoint impedance and low current at the feedpoint, the end fed half wave antenna doesn't require a good ground radial system.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K2WH on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I have always laughed when I hear of hams buying wire antennas out of a catalog or some ham store for $ 49.95 or higher.

Wire from Sears will work just as well and is alot cheaper. My best antennas have always been high dipoles made out of motor wire. If you can get the antenna to accept power it will work, no matter the design.

K2WH
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K8DIT on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Good Article Charles. If you extend the 1/2 wave to 5/8ths wave, you use the same matching device and increase efficiency/gain even more. Using an L network variable matching device at the feedpoint lets you tune all bands above its intended band as well with even more efficiency and gain.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

I have been using the end and center fed Zepp for 80 meters when it was first described by John Kraus 8jk. Have both the center fed zepp at 23 feet and the end fed zepp at 9 feet and both work great.. Having these antenna for over 60 years and found nothing better for all band operation.

I keep the the center fed zepp at 23 feet to use the earth as my reflector and for a 1/10 wavelentgh above ground gives a gain from 3 to 5 Db, skyward.
On the 40 meter band this center fed zepp becomes two halfwave antennas fed in phase and gives me a gain of 1.8 Db over a dipole plus the reflected power of 2/10 wave above ground of another 5 Db of gain, skywards.

On the other bands, the end fed zepp works as a long wire and there is gain in the direction of the wire for all the higher bands.

The G5RV antenna was nothing new to me and is nothing more than the center fed zepp, but the flat top is 102 feet and the feed line length makes up for the shortness of the flat top. Look in the ARRL handbook in the 50's and 60's and you will find this information long before the G5RV. Again the G5RV is a center fed zepp and nothing more and nothing less. My favorite antenna is the Center fed Zepp, well balanced and performs excellent and will best suit you as well.

73 and DX, W6TH.
.:
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K2AAU on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Charles:

I enjoyed your article very much.

Question: Why are so many antenna manufacturers trying to build a better mousetrap and stating that their design and performance is better than most?

KISS***Keep it stupidly simple is a whole lot cheaper than spending countless dollars in having something so big made out of Aircraft Aluminin tubing anticipating that one day it might fall, bend or stop working due to the elements!

73,

Artie
K2aau
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WA1RNE on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
The End Fed halfwave is a very good choice. On VHF, it is a great performer, as evidenced by the popularity of the J-Pole.

For HF, it is also a good choice - as long as you have the facilities, time and some patience to plan and research a little to overcome some of the inherent challenges with some configurations, like a halfwave vertical for 40 meters and below.

Full sized halfwave verticals for 20 meters and up are fairly easy to construct and require just a parallel LC network at the base to present a match to 50 ohm coax. Adding a 1/4 wave decoupling sleeve over the coaxial line will ensure the line doesn't radiate and will keep line radiation low and efficiency high.

A full sized halfwave vertical for 40 presents some interesting challenges but again, with some good practices and ingenuity, the rewards are usually worth the effort. A 64' wire hanging from a nearby tree branch and attached to fixed object in the yard with an insulator is the easiest along with a small weatherproof box for the matching network. (sounds like an atypical QST article from circa 1966 for a weekend antenna project?) A shunt-fed 60 foot tower is probably one of the more convenient means that many hams have at their disposal. The challenge is obviously much greater for 80/75 where a halfwave sloping wire is more practical. I'm sure some go-getter has tried this on 160, but that's obviously pushing the envelope.

L shaped wires or other configurations work OK but if DX is the name of the game, the halfwave vertical, up as high and in the clear as possible is the way to go.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!


I just checked my 1940 ARRL Radio Amateurs Handbook for the year of 1940 on page 359 and found the dimensions of 100 feet flat top and 38 feet of feeder length would work the following bands: 3.5, 7, 14, 28 Mc/s (Mhz).

Looks like Kraus W8JK was ahead of G5RV by quite a few years.

When you want the best of the best for ham radio information, choose the ARRL, winners first class.

.: W6TH
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W9OY on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Thanks for the article and references. Here is my experience with this antenna.

I used this kind of antenna with good results when I was in college. I fed mine with openwire line in the classic end fed zepp configuration, to a balanced tuner. I used this when I lived in an apartment as a stealth antenna and it worked far better than any "compromise" antenna I tried, since it is not a compromise. My antenna was cut for 75M, and I worked all bands using it.

It was a lot of fun to use this antenna. I did have to fool around with feedline lenght a little bit to get it to match on all bands. Using up to 1KW I had no problems with RF, which is the constant "wivestale" knock against this antenna. You will hear the "experts" blow about it somehow isn't "balanced", or causes "TVI" etc etc. I didn't find this to be the case at all. Frankly I don't think most of these "experts" have ever used this antenna and are just busy being "experts". I have not found many other hams who have ever tried this antenna.

I did use a good single point ground on the station, and located the tuner near the point where the openwire and the ground entered the shack, and my apartment was on the first floor. My tuner was a homebrew link coupled affair with plug in coils for each band. I made the openwire out of some parallel 18g wires seperated by 1" using electrical tape as the insulators. 100 ft of 10g copper bus for the coils for a half buck, 1000ft of 18g insulated wire for a half buck and 3 rolls of tape for a quarter at a hamfest. (When you're in college living off Velveta, eggs and day old bread you use what ever is cheapest.) I also built a Z match that worked with this antenna, but not as well as the link coupler. Today I would use the single coil version of the Z match for an all band portable setup. The antenna was very well behaved, easy to tune and got me on the air with a good signal, with no problems.

It's an easy antenna to make and experiment with. A few feet of wire, some tape, a couple of variable caps, little piece of coax to the rig....work the world. I love it Ham radio at its best.

W9OY
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!


This is something to think about and should be given much thought.

The dictionary notes this as to a dipole:

Physics. A pair of electric charges or magnetic poles, of equal magnitude but of opposite sign or polarity, separated by a small distance.

Chemistry. A molecule having two such charges or poles.

Electronics. An antenna, usually fed from the center, consisting of two equal rods extending outward in a straight line.

Now does this mean that a antenna fed as two halfwaves in phase is still a dipole? No not exactly as it is called two half waves fed in phase.

Now what is a antenna that is a resonant half wave in length for a given frequency called that is fed with a single wire? Such an antenna is called the off center fed antenna? Surely not a dipole. Yes, it is called a half wave resonant antenna with single wire fed.

The half wave resonant antenna with single wire feed is the most efficient antenna possible. Why not give it a try? Of course there will be the need for a tuner or if the transmitter has the old fashioned pi-net, then no tuner is needed. A tube rig with the pi-net, then don't worry about the vswr, just tune for maximum smoke.

This may be worth the try. Oh, for the good old days.

.:

.:
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W8JI on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
You have to be careful end-feeding wires and Zepps.

They work pretty well at low power, but at high power you can get into RFI problems. Some suggestions at:

http://www.w8ji.com/end-fed_vertical_j-pole_and_horizontal_zepp.htm

73 Tom
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by NJ0E on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
i've used the end-fed halfwave while on backpacking
trips, in conjunction with a small qrp transceiver.
it's a good lil' performer, and i greatly appreciate
that it's not necessary to carry heavy feedline in
my backpack!

you *must* use a tuner in conjunction with this
antenna. a good tuner. that probably means, not
the autotuner in your rig. for a half wave wire,
the end is a voltage node (a high voltage, low
current point). that means the feedpoint has high
impedance. the output of your radio is about
50 ohms; very low impedance. it's unlikely most
autotuners could handle this. i use an emtech zm-2
manual z-match tuner, and it works okay with the
efhwa. probably the american qrp club blt tuner
could tune these well, also, with a simple
mod, and the mfj 'versatuners', that are designed
to tune end fed wires, would do okay also.

for a good reference, i second CT2ILQ's suggestion
of the n2cx article on the new jersey qrp club web
site:

http://www.njqrp.org/n2cxantennas/halfer/

thanks for a good article, on a worthy topic!
73
scott
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Hello Tom.

Have read your article and many others that you have mentioned. I have eliminated the RFI in many different ways.

Use of a counterpoise on the ground.

Running coax to the antenna at the tuner near and next to the window with the single wire feed going out doors.

Using the antenna tuner out doors with auto tune.

Pruning the feed line to eliminate the RFI.

The only problem I have encountered in years of use was the keyer would take off and have no control. However by replacing the 12 volt dc source to power the keyer and using batteries to make the keyer function solved that problem. Also grounding with the other equipment.

My power used was 600 watts to the antenna and best when I placed my tuner next to the window and just a few inches of the feed line indoors.

Last, a good ground can at many times make the correction for rf in the shack regardless of what antenna is being used.

I may also recommend to run ground wire to each electronic gear, such as the transmitter, tuner, and amplifier, which should be normal practice.

I noticed many on 75 meters with amplitude modulation with the use of resonant halfwave wires using single wire feed.

Nothing is impossible in ham radio.

73, Vito W6TH
.:

With RFI, nothing ventured nothing gained.
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by G0GQK on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
We've always known them as half wave end feds. The title is more complicated than the wire.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!


Back in the 30's known as half wave resonant wire with single wire feed, also came Collins who called it the off center fed and his famous pi-net work and then came Windom who called it the Windom antenna by using a balun and 300 ohm line.

The single wire feed was closely matched by the collins network to match 500 - 600 ohms to ground.

Must be before your time when men were men and woman loved them that way.

.:
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K9APR on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
The best site I have for anything antennas is the supersite of XE1BEF at http://members.fortunecity.com/xe1bef/hf-antennas.htm remove the /hf-antennas.htm for the rest of the 20,200 links to all things relating to Amateur Radio...

73, James, K9APR
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB2WIK on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
An end-fed 1/2 wave vertical "dipole" isn't a dipole, it's an end-fed half-wave. Thousands have been sold commercially over decades, in the form of the R3, R5, R7, R6000, R7000, and lots of other "ground independent" vertical antennas. Of course they work, the only tricky thing is matching.

As W8JI said, the only tricky thing then is to create an effective matching network that doesn't self-destruct when running high power. If you never run any power, then the network isn't so critical.

WB2WIK/6
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Hmmmm. A timely subject for the WB7CQK QTH. I'm waiting for band conditions to implove to check out my very small homebrew L-network, set up for 17m. It consists of 16 turns of #22 magnet wire, close-wound on a piece of 1/2 inch PVC (OD = 5/8 inch) with a little 25 pF cap to complete the load side of the network. With a half-wave wire on 17 (468 divided by 18.1 MHz), casually tossed up in a tree, it loads up just fine (SWR is 1.6 to 1, with no fudging on the wire length... trim for a better match?) My little FT-817 is quite happy, even without an ATU.

Or, you can spend $40 and get a wire with a transformer-based matching network from PAR electronics and save yourself from soldering iron burns.

Life is too short not to fool around with old antennas! (And a ps ... the capacitor is rated at 1kV ... rough calculations for a 2500 Ohm load at 100 W indicate about 500 Volts... 866 V peak?) (That's about 193 V at QRP-max.)

72 de Dave,
WB7CQK
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by N6AJR on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
http://www.hamuniverse.com/multidipole.html


FAN DIPOLES DON'T NEED NO STINKING GROUND RADIALS... EVER..
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

N6AJR said "FAN DIPOLES DON'T NEED NO STINKING GROUND RADIALS... EVER.. "

But you must consider the consumate beauty involved! 25 feet 10 inches of the Wireman's finest, small gage, stranded copperweld wire, a nylon wire tie (for an end insulator), and an L-netowrk that will fit in the watch pocket of your blue jeans? Oh yeah ... 6 inches of feed line. It's enough to make any QRPer salivate! (An once he is done salivating and has consumed about half a small soft-drink bottle of water, he has the perfect projectile for tossing the far end of the wire into a tree!)

72 again, de Dave
WB7CQK
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Another couple of post scripts ... W8JK became a silent key this year. We will miss him.

And the coil-winding formula for my little L-network came from the 1943 ARRL Handbook.

WB7CQK
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WA1RNE on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
With all these posts, hopefully everyone will see the big picture:

Dipoles, whether vertical, horizontal or fan type are not the only antenna configurations that work.

Instead of spending $50 or more on commercial stuff, what is wrong with homebrewing your own?

I can assure you, the soldering iron burns will heal and you will have this wonderful feeling of accomplishment afterwards.....and use the extra $50 to take your wife out to dinner.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
WB2WIK

R3, R5, R7, R6000, R7000 antenna.

I was under the impression that these antennas were closely matched to the "off center fed or windom" type feed systems.

Many hams of today call every type of antenna a dipole, possibly for one given band, but when using as a harmonically operated antenna it usually becomes close to a random or long wire antenna.

J. Kraus W8JK was my antenna instructor and is already deeply missed.

.:
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W8JI on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest Reply
by WB7CQK on July 31, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Hmmmm. A timely subject for the WB7CQK QTH. I'm waiting for band conditions to implove to check out my very small homebrew L-network, set up for 17m. It consists of 16 turns of #22 magnet wire, close-wound on a piece of 1/2 inch PVC (OD = 5/8 inch) with a little 25 pF cap to complete the load side of the network. With a half-wave wire on 17 (468 divided by 18.1 MHz), casually tossed up in a tree, it loads up just fine (SWR is 1.6 to 1, with no fudging on the wire length... trim for a better match?) My little FT-817 is quite happy, even without an ATU >>>

ANY end fed antenna without a counterpoise or groundplane will have feedline radiation, that goes for the PAR antenna especially.

There is a rule that cannot be broken.

The current flowing into the end-fed antenna MUST be equaled by current flowing out of a counterpoise at the point of feed.

QRP stations get away with this stuff, because the power is so low no one notices the current on the feedline shield or the resulting voltage on the cabinet of the radio and everything connected to the radio. It is a real problem, however.

The Par antenna, or any other end fed antenna without a groundplane (like the IMAX 2000 CB antenna) all have significant feedline current on the outside of the shield, amking the feedline part of the receiving and radiating system.

That rule is unbendable for end-fed antennas, and includes J-poles, Ringo Rangers, verticals, horizontals, and anything else that is end fed.

The small ground system off-set fed antennas are just as bad. I constantly used to field complaints from people with truncated ground or counterpoise systems in GAP, Cushcraft, and Hygain antennas where the customer had severe RF feedback or other problems when using modest or high power.

Even four 1/4 wl radials are not enough to make the antenna perfectly unbalanced, and eliminate RF on the feedline. Something with less of a ground system is big trouble, but if you run low power you may not be aware of it.

73 Tom
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!


W8JI Hellow Tom.

Yes, What you say is quite true, but there are many of us that use these type of antennas with no balanced feed lines that know how to compensate for these problems that you insist on mentioning.

On Balaned feed lines such as the Center fed Zepp, whereby the feed line has rf equal in amplitude and opposite in phase and should cancel not radiate.

Now for the off center fed half wave antenna; a person that has the know how can reduce the amount of rf that is coming back into the radio shack and be able to run the kilowatt that may be needed.

One needs not go to the extremes as the Carolina Windom off center fed antenna to eliminate the rf back into the shack. That is to have a balun at the impedance point and a rf choke at the feed point. The Carolina windom is definately an off center fed half wave antenna and seems to have eliminated the rf problem. Which you seem to say cannot happen.

Now to the single wire feed:

By keeping the single wire out of the ham shack and having your antenna tuner placed near a window, etc.,a normal coax running to the tuner and well grounded will reduce a large amount of rf in the shack and proper grounding of all transmitting gear used, I am sure this will cure the problems you have mentioned and then proceed to run the kw amount of power.

These antennas have been used for many years, but maybe by antenna engineers that knew how to sort the problems.

Very nice topic Tom, 73, Vito W6TH.

.:
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 1, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Please help me on this. If I take a half wavelength of wire, mount it vertically, and feed it at the bottom, I think the following are true:

1.) The feedpoint impedance is VERY high.
2.) The rf voltage at the feedpoint is VERY high.
3.) The rf current at the feedpoint is VERY low.

(Numbers 2 and 3 being relative, based on the power involved.)

Now, if I take a suitable matching network, say an L or a matching transformer, it brings that high impedance, high voltage, and low current towards a "modest" impedance and voltage, and some "modestly" higher value of current. I think I am on safe ground so far, with no discussion of balanced vs. unbalanced feed from the matching device (to the transmitting device) AND assuming that there is a ground path from the "low voltage" side of the capacitor in the L-network or the "bottom" of the matching transformer TO the feedline shield. (We'll play with 50 Ohm coax at that point.)

My transmitting device is quite happy looking into an unbalanced load, I believe. It was designed to do so, as long as it "sees" a characteristic impedance of 50 Ohms. If I skip the feedline and plug my matching network directly into the spigot on the back of the transmitter ... remembering that the matching network has been designed to present a 50 Ohm load, what happens to that "modest" current that would have been flowing on the inside and on the outside of the feedline shield?

If I use a very short feedline (much less than 1/4 wavelength), what happens?

If I use a very long feedline (avoiding odd or even multiples of 1/4 wavelength, just to be safe), what happens?

What is the difference in what I have presented and simply connecting a 50 Ohm non-reactive load into the back of the transmitter?

'Enough damage to my feeble brain. I'm going to hunt up a bottle of Bufferin.

73 de Dave,
WB7CQK
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W6TH on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!


WB7CQK

Yes this is all true.

1.) The feedpoint impedance is VERY high.
2.) The rf voltage at the feedpoint is VERY high.
3.) The rf current at the feedpoint is VERY low.

I will make this all easy for you by doing this:

Run a length of coax wire, 10, 20, 50 feet or whatever and hang your vertical from a tree and at the bottom of the vertical place a vswr meter and a pi-network tuner, which will be able to match any impedance of unknown value and don't forget the vswr meter to tune for lowest reflected power.

A MFJ 16010 matching network will do great if you will keep your power within limits of the tuner. Also make sure the transmitter, receiver, transceiver, keyer and what else you may be using is well grounded in the shack.

I hope this is of some help.

73, W6TH
.:
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

One bit of trivia ... the end-fed Hertz antenna (aka EFHWA) is (or was) called the Fuchs antenna. (pg. 373, "The Radio Handbook", copyright 1947, from Editors and Engineers.) But that was refering to to the wire erected horizontally.

With regard to the vertical half wave, the same book states "Such an antenna will operate very effectively over water or salt marsh, or a system of radials from one-half to two wavelengths in length may be run out, spaced from 15 to 45 degrees, from the base of the antenna." (pg. 376)

Ok, maybe it does work better with a decent ground!

And finally, with regard to inductively loaded (i.e. "short") antennas, "Insertion of inductance coils in the aerial will have the effect of lengthening the wave without strengthening the field at a fixed distance, and so must act deleteriously on radiation intensity." (A quote from Sir Oliver Lodge, taken from "The Textbook on Wireless Telegraphy", by Rupert Stanley, published in 1918, pg. 186) (It's a wonderful book ... chock full of photos of original Marconi equipment.)

But please don't ask me how to pronounce "Fuchs."

73 again,
WB7CQK
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Hello Vito!

I have already done much of what you have suggested; instead of an SWR meter and transmitter, I used my MFJ-259 antenna analyzer and a length of wire cut for 18.1 MHz, less 2.5% (since I have only one end's effect to worry about with the end-fed situation.) (I think the 468/f formula assumes two ends and lops off a full 5%.) The tuner was as previously described, a simple L-network with fixed values calculated for an assumed feed point impedance of 2500 Ohms. (I was ready to tweak either L or C, but the SWR came out to be 1.6 to 1, so why bother?) I used a 10 foot length of RG-58 for a feed line. My real question now is: Is a ground really necessary?

The second version of the matching network is going to have switch-selected capacitors and a switch-tapped inductor, so I can cover an "output" impedance of 1000 to 5000 Ohms. (For reasonable values of network Q, that's a range of 18 to 38pF and 11 to 21 coil turns.) After I have selected an optimum value for C and L, I shall do away with the switches and seal up the critter in a very little plastic box. Then I may start playing with various ground configurations. Or maybe not.

Alas, I have run out of both #22 magnet wire for the new coil and time in the weekend. So "the rest of the story" may have to wait a week.

73 (or more technically correct for QRP, 72),
Dave.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K5LXP on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
W8JI nailed it, it's not that the end fed 1/2 wave doesn't require radials, it's just that most of the time you can get away without having them. Say for a moment you had an endfed halfwave over a large groundplane. The current at the feedpoint is very low, but as you move away from the feedpoint you will actually see the current increase, reaching maximum around .4 wl. Since current in the ground contributes to the radiated field, without radials you are throwing away efficiency by not providing an efficient return for this current. You can mitigate some of this ground loss by elevating the antenna higher, but this may complicate the feed (in portable/QRP setups). There's no arguing that an end-fed single wire 'tossed up in a tree' is a quick, easy and successful way to get on the air, but it's not the panacea of efficiency and gain as the author is leading us to believe.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K5UJ on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I don't understand why anyone would put up a 1/2 wave of wire, and feed it at the end. if you have room for 1/2 w. of wire where you want to operate you have room. so why not feed it in the center so everything is balanced? (I'm assuming a horizontal antenna.) Physically it is more difficult to do this with a vertical dipole, especially if lambda is real long. Broadcasters in the U.S. operate with 1/2 w.* verticals fed at the base (a lot of times these are 1-A 50kw stations) BUT: a. they have a mirror to the vertical in the form of a radial field and b. they have gigantic matching networks in "tuning houses" at the base of the tower. Big copper pipe air inductors with vacuum variables. The whole thing sings with the sidebands. For hams the method with the least problems and ease is to go horizontal, and let the parallel feed dangle down from the center.

*actually the length is a little more than 1/2 and a little under 5/8 w. for reasons having to do with more groundwave strength but avoidance of ground and skywave cancellation at around 120 miles out.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by KC8VWM on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

>>> I don't understand why anyone would put up a 1/2 wave of wire, and feed it at the end.<<<

Well, for one thing if you are somehow limited in your capacity to erect an antenna at your location, the end fed type of antenna would be easier to erect.

For example.

I have decided on the perfect stealth antenna for antenna restricted neighborhoods.

Fact# 1: Anyone is permitted by law to place a satellite receiving dish at their location.

Now lets examine the old adage of, "When in Rome do as the Romans do."

My suggestion for the ultimate stealth antenna you might ask?

Erect a satellite dish.

Completely fake the entire installation!!

Use a specific length of "what appears to be" the transmission line for the satellite dish.

Of course the satellite dish cable wire would actually be an end fed longwire zepp transmitting antenna. It could be an inverted "L" or "Half Square" or any other combination antenna. It will work as a multiband HF band antenna very well.

Mount the "cable" carefully along the wall going to your dish as high as possible along the side of the building. Be sure and use cable TV clips and make sure you go the whole 9 yards to make it appear as authentic looking as possible.

Last thing to do is to place an 8 foot ground rod in the ground. After all, this is a building code requirement for the safety of all satellite dish installations right?

When thats all done place a yellow "utility" tag on the both the ground rod and the wire leading to the dish. This of course completely "certifies" the whole installation was done by a professional.

73

Charles - KC8VWM

 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

But I don't WANT to mount it horizontally! I want the feedpoint very close to mother earth so I don't have to lug around a quarter-wave-plus of feedline! And all I need is one decent tree! That leaves me with the choice (for a simple, lightweight antenna) of either a quarter wave or a half wave vertical. Which antenna must have a decent ground system ... or, conversely, for a given (crummy but practical) ground system, which antenna will work the best?

72, Dave
WB7CQK

 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Charles, that's a great idea! I think the ARRL should sell the yellow tags. They could be embossed with something like "This installation has been completed and inspected by a licensed authority." ('Maybe even a place for your signature.) No fibs there!

WB7CQK
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K5UJ on August 2, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
<<<But I don't WANT to mount it horizontally! I want the feedpoint very close to mother earth so I don't have to lug around a quarter-wave-plus of feedline! And all I need is one decent tree! That leaves me with the choice (for a simple, lightweight antenna) of either a quarter wave or a half wave vertical. Which antenna must have a decent ground system ... or, conversely, for a given (crummy but practical) ground system, which antenna will work the best? >>>

I'm not sure how you save on feedline length by base feeding it in the vertical unless you want the feedpoint right up against your shack which would not be a good idea, unless you are going to run fairly low power. In any event, for best results with a 1/4 or 1/2 w. vertical fed at the bottom, you will want a radial field of 30 to 50 quarter wave radials spaced equally apart making it hard to get the feedpoint near your shack. I think it's safe to say that any base fed vertical you employ is going to need radials (a.k.a. counterpoise, ground plane) to perform well by increasing efficiency through reduced ground loss. I would place a remote controllable matching network at the feedpoint so your coax cable is ending at an impedance reasonably close to its design impedance. There are commercially available products for lower power levels in wxproof enclosures--i think SGC makes one, but ultimately, how you transfer power from the feed to the antenna depends on the length of the vertical and the range of frequencies you want to use it on. If you are unable to go all the way straight up, you can bend the wire and go out horizontally to make what is known as an inverted L. These are often used on 160 m. with 1/4 w. wire. A vertical with no radials or not very many will work, just not very well compared to the performance you would experience with more radials. 1/2 w. or 1/4 w.? I suggest you read this: http://www.cebik.com/58.html and dig around in that website. A wealth of antenna information available there.

 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Hello K5UJ !

We are mixing fruit.

I can care less about working DXCC, I've already done that. I do, however, enjoy operating QRP portable. My little FT-817 fits quite nicely in my backpack. My portable shack is made out of nylon (and it also fits in my backpack.) Along with my bed, my kitchen, etc. So the stage is set. I have selected 17 meters for operations since it is contest- and (pretty much) QRM-free. Propagation on that band is comparable to that on 20 meters. And wire antenna length is reasonable (about 26 feet for a half wavelength.)

Now, what do I use for an antenna?

I have ruled out horizontal wire antennas for reasons mentioned previously in this thread. That leaves vertical antennas, or something appoaching a vertical. I am certainly not going to tote enough wire for "30 to 50" quarter wave radials. And even if I did, I would likely ruin the whole mess when nature calls in the wee (no pun intended) hours of the morning. (I can't fit a bathroom into my packpack, but mother nature provides.) (By the way, the same tree that I use for my lavatory might just as well serve as my antenna support.)

I have chosen a single band, for reasons just described. My antenna matching device consists of a simple L-network with fixed values of L and C, selected for 18.1 MHz. (Q is about 7.) It weighs about two ounces and lives at the feed point of the antenna. Feedline is ten feet of RG-58 (I could have gone with RG-174, but afixing connectors to that stuff requires more patience than I own.) The excess coax forms a small coil just outside my "shack." My ground system consists of two (roughly) 10 foot lengths of small-gage wire, carefully laid out on the soil in a manner that (hopefully) precludes me from tripping over them. The wires are attached to the "cold" side of the L-network, directly at the feedpoint. I am still evaluating antenna insulators. Right now my choice in that regard is a loop made out of a wire tie.

I guess one can argue that 26 or so feet of 300 Ohm TV twin lead weighs about the same as my ten feet of coax. And a suitable single-band 300 to 50 Ohm matching network weighs about the same as my little L-network. Except for the need for an additional tree, I suppose I could be talked into going horizontal. (My body should be going horizontal very soon, regardless.)

Thsnk you for the web site suggestion. I have, indeed, visited there. If I need a cure for insomnia, though, I can always rummage through my box of old grad school texts. (My MSEE was in antenna theory.) Regardless, take a visit next door, at the product reviews. The category on antennas has reviews of the PAR Electronics version of the end-fed half wave. (Last time I looked there were 22 reviews, all giving that version 5 out of 5.) Most of the reviewers had real reasons for going that route ... I just wish the $40 price tag would come down. With my modest junk box, my L-network came to about $9. (And most of that was for a new spool of magnet wire, which will last me a lifetime.)

I'm going to go put some new line on my fly reel - - a ham needs to have something to do when 17 meters is dead! (The backing I have left over will come in handy for throwing weights over trees!)

72 de Dave,
WB7CQK

 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K5UJ on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Dave,

I did not realize you were looking for a portable qrp antenna and I apologize for that oversight. that is something that is outside my normal operating experience so I'm afraid I can't be of much help, other than to say that in passing, I have heard good things about the Buddipole antennas here and there.

I am perplexed as to why you, with a MSEE degree, with a specialty in antennas, are asking for antenna advice. If anything, YOU should be designing antennas for the rest of us, and helping US with OUR problems. I doubt very much if I have anything to tell you, that you do not already know. 73 and GL.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by K4JSR on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
Hey Charles,
Come on down to Bethlehem and help Philip and I empty some Foster's Beer cans. The immediate job at
hand is to get a sufficient number of empty Foster's
cans to assemble our 160 meter beer can J pole.
Sooo much work, soooo little bladder! :-0
The J pole is an old beer drinker's solution to the
Slot antenna---Called a SOT!

73, Cal K4JSR
SOTTED, Ga. ZIP 807
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by KC8VWM on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

>>> The immediate job at hand is to get a sufficient number of empty Foster's cans to assemble our 160 meter beer can J pole. <<<

Cal,

Antenna thoery tells me that Beer Kegs may exhibit more bandwidth and gain than smaller diameter beer cans do. According to the ARRL handbook (007 edition)in a clinical DX trial study indicated that the lower alcohol content beer from Australia does not result in the same electrical conductive properties as beer from Canada would exhibit. But hey, I suppose we could conduct our own study in this area and even publish our findings (with photos)in the next issue of "Dead Drunk Electrical Dudes." (-Copyright 2004)

whadda ya tink dere dood ?
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by KC8VWM on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

>> Charles, that's a great idea! I think the ARRL should sell the yellow tags. They could be embossed with something like "This installation has been completed and inspected by a licensed authority." <<

Thanks Dave. BTW I really like your call "CQK." Has a nice ring to it when using CW.

Have a listen...,

-.-. --.- -.-

Anyways, I came up with the idea of the stealth "satellite dish HF antenna" when I was reading about how some people use a piece of coaxial cable and how they turn this into an antenna.

My thought was to make the cable appear as though it had an actual intended purpose so not only could you justify it's existence, but it would also not arouse suspicion with any neighbors or passers by.

Neighbors would think that it's "just another satellite dish."

73

Charles - KC8VWM
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by W9DZ on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I built a portable EFHW for 20M from an article by DL2MFJ in the G-QRP journal SPRAT. It uses an 'L' network built into a 35MM film can. The inductor is 27 turns of #24 wire on a T-68-2 core and the cap is a #463 ARCO compression trimmer (20-180 pF). You can build one for 40M by winding 37T of #26 on the same size core. The network is tuned initially by loading it with a 3300 ohm resistor and adjusting for minimum SWR. I used my MFJ Analyzer. I connected approximately 10M of wire and fastened the end in a tree. It took a couple trys but I was eventually able to get the SWR under 1.2/1 by adjusting the length. I didn't bother touching the cap in the network as it was close enough for me.

I used it on Field Day with my FT-817 and made 20 contacts in 30 minutes of casual operation, search and pounce.

The ARCO trimmer is only rated at 175 V working or about 10W of RF. According to the ARCO data sheet the test voltage is 350 so you might be able to push it to 40W without problems. I was only running 5W.

I have digital photos of the matching network which I can email to anyone interested in its construction. My email address in in my profile here on eHam.
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WB7CQK on August 3, 2004 Mail this to a friend!

Hello W9DZ !

'Sounds very similar to my 17 meter L-network. I had originally designed it to match 2500 Ohms, but after playing with EZNEC today, I came up with 3300 Ohms! Anyhow, I chose a fixed capacitor and a PVC-wound coil.

I also fiddled with EZNEC and ground wires today. Four quarter wavelength wires is overkill. One all by itself makes a noticeable difference, though.

With one gound wire and a little tweaking of the half wave line length, I came up with a maximum field at 19 degrees elevation angle. (Same setup but going with four ground wires and a quarter wave radiator gave me an angle of 27 degrees.)

The voltage with 100 watts (with a 3300 Ohm feedpoint impedance) comes out to about 580 volts. (Only about 128 volts at 5 watts.)

I need to crank out the numbers, but it looks like a 3.3 or 3.9 uH molded choke (say, Miller 9230-series) along with a suitable ceramic capacitor, would make up an L-network smaller than an SMA connector! (The capacitor would be around 20 or 25 pF.) (That's all for 18.1 MHz.)

I'll let you know what my trusty old HP-41CX says later tonight. BTW, I'd love to see the pictures! My email is WB7CQK@arrl.net.

72 de Dave,
WB7CQK
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by KG5JJ on August 4, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I think the PC pronunciation of "Fuchs" rhymes with "Pukes". ;-}

73 (KG5JJ)
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by KG5JJ on August 4, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I think the PC pronunciation of "Fuchs" rhymes with "Pukes". ;-}

73 (KG5JJ)
 
RE: Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by WR8D on August 5, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
I tried it years ago, but a full wave loop at 40 feet in a triangle config will out talk anything i have tried. If you have the room to put one up! I use homemade number 12 open wire feeders spaced 6 inches apart to feed mine.
73,
John WR8D
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by KB2HSH on August 7, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
In the Intro To QRP book, Dave Ingram, K4TWJ discusses an antenna such as this. He writes that it works very well, indeed. I have contemplated one, but mentally wrote it off until this posting. I, instead, had been opting for a Hustler vertical (primarily for the 10 and 40 meter useability). I think I'll put that 500 foot spool of RG-59 that I have in my work truck to use today.

Thanks for the info everyone!

HSH
 
Your Ultimate Antenna Quest  
by HF2PWA on August 10, 2004 Mail this to a friend!
HHHMMmmmmmmm OK NO antenna restrictions.
I saw some dudes idea of getting a clear channel tower. Cut it into sections
I would love a phased array of 3-4 32 foot radiators.
It would be nice if a clear channel AM commercial would let me have an old omnni antenna.

I do not know if the poster was kidding asround
I would like to get a 1.5 mhz angenna.
Cut it in thirds or quarters.

Put a CPU controlled ATU at the "antenna-lets" bases.
I know I am in outer space on this. Write some program in BASIC. The program will get the lowest SWR with a major lobe at a low angle.

ECHHH! I do not think it would work! I want the antenna to be multiband directional array.

Have a 6 position RF switch in the program I write
Pos #1 NORTH #2 west. #3 SOUTH. #4 EAST.
Pos#5 OMNI-directional pos#6 DUMMY LOAD.
I COULD INSERT MY SELF IN POSITION #6 CAUSE I IS A DUMMY.

More practical, bunch of 4 inverted V's, just using the tower sections to hang the old BALUN.
Each tower has it's own ATU

Break the HF spectrum into 4 slices! 1.8-5Mhz, 5-10mhz,
10-20mhz and 20-29.7 MHX.
More stupid idea's are brewing.

73
 
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