Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
Frank Drake (KL7IPV)
on
August 21, 2004
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This article appears in the September issue of World Radio magazine with another name although it is mine. I held off putting it here in June at the magazine's request. I will send pictures to you as you request rather than post them here since they take up a lot of space. Request them by writing to me at sirdrakejr at aol dot com. Since credit was not given to me, here is the article as I sent it with the original title:
This is an article describing an external modification I made to my Icom IC-706 MkII. It may also apply to any radio where the heat buildup seems to be high. Mine was killed by heat even though Icom said the internal heat would not do it. I have been a member of the HF Pack group for quite a while but never put the radio into one of those backpacks out of concern for the amount of heat it generated. This little radio generated a LOT of heat! I called Icom and asked them about the heat and what would happen if the radio was placed in a closed environment like a backpack. They told me nothing would happen and the heat was not enough to affect the operation of the radio since it had a fan that automatically came on to cool the inside. Even with that assurance, I did not put it to use in a backpack. I instead used aluminum material to convert the radio to travel and also act as a heat sink on the sides of the radio. It evidently wasn't enough. Heat killed my radio. It was hot to touch and fried. I sent it to the factory and they replaced the necessary components to fix it. The tech told me one of the internal resistors was hot enough to burn him. I paid my money and wondered what to do to keep it from frying again. This article will tell you what I did.
The first thing I did was replace the radio with my third in the series of IC-706 radios, the "G" model. Now if the MkII dies, I will still be on the air. The next thing I did was figure a way to protect the radio from the internal heat it generates. I know it has a fan and it ran a lot. It didn't keep it from getting killed by the heat. I needed to do more. I measured the surfaces available on the outside of the radio and wondered if it would be possible to place heat sinks on it to draw the heat from the radio even if the fan failed. I perused the number of catalogues I get and found just the item I needed at All Electronics Corp (http://www.allelectronics.com/). They had used heat sinks for sale that were just the right size to put six of them on the top of the radio and draw that heat off. See picture number 1 of the individual heat sink I used.
The heat sinks were from computer usage and had a lip that needed to be filed off to mount them flat on the radio. I also needed to figure a way to mount them and allow me to get the screws that hold the top cover to the radio. My Dremel tool came in handy for that little task. I laid the heat sinks out on the radio cover and cut and ground each one where it needed it in order to allow access the screws. The heat sinks covered the top of the radio perfectly.
Next I had to bolt the heat sinks to the cover so the heat transfer would be sufficient to do the job. The cover sits about one quarter inch above the board in the radio. There are also some spring fingers that ground the cover to the internal boards as well. The heat sinks will also sit above the internal divider that separates the final board from the front end. That space was too small to allow for bolting the heat sink to the cover unless I moved the bolts off center a little. I needed to allow for all that when I drilled holes for the mounting screws. I drilled the holes as close to center as I could and still miss all the stuff I needed to miss. The six heat sinks would cover five cover screws either completely or partially and I needed to make notches and a hole for them in the heat sinks. I did all that and bolted the heat sinks to the cover. I ground off the extra threads of the bolts I used to hold the heat sinks and smoothed them out so when this goes into a backpack, the threads wont tear the insides of the backpack.
The final mounting looked pretty good but needed something more. It needed to be painted so it looked good. I first thoroughly cleaned the heat sinks with acetone. Knowing the amount of heat that could be generated by this radio, I bought some flat black barbecue spray paint to paint the heat sinks. The final outcome looks good and when the radio is on now, I feel almost no heat from the cover of the radio. I have had the radio on for hours and the fan still has not come on. It may be that the Icom repair job took care of the original problem or the heat sinks are doing what I hoped they would do. At any rate when I finally take it out in a backpack I feel much more comfortable knowing the heat won't stay in the radio where it has proven to be a killer, whether or not the fan comes on. HFPack group here I come; finally. And I will be cool too.
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KG4RUL on August 21, 2004
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The only flaw in your approach is that in placing the radio into a backpack, you are creating a closed loop: heat from the radio is transferred into the air trapped in the backpack which is drawn into the radio, etc. Unless freely moving, external air is allowed to enter and exhaust from the radio and the heatsink is exposed to this external air stream, heat WILL build up.
Dennis / KG4RUL
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WY3X on August 21, 2004
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>The heat sinks covered the top of the radio perfectly.
So now you have cooled the exterior surface of the
radio. Although it may have some cooling effect on the
ambient temperature of the air just inside the case,
I'm afraid it won't help cool the components that much
because they are not "sinked" to your new heat sink.
I would have installed a couple of small cooling fans
(yes, I know that would have added to your electricity
budget) and drilled some holes to let cool air in and
hot air out. I think that would have been more
effective at cooling the insides.
>Knowing the amount of heat that could be generated by
>this radio, I bought some flat black barbecue spray
>paint to paint the heat sinks
I used to race, and we'd paint our engines black for
similar reasons. Then I made friends with an RF
design engineer, who told me: "You know why they
paint heat sinks black?" When I stated to help get
rid of the excess heat, he replied "Nope! It's because
everybody thinks black is a sexy color and they'll
buy it quicker. Aluminum, when left in the raw, is
more efficient at radiating heat!" He then proceeded
to prove it to me to my satisfaction. So- I no longer
paint my heat sinks, as the paint only creates an
insulating barrier, keeping the air away from the
surface of the heat sink (and making it feel cooler
to the touch because it's also insulated from your
fingers, as an added anti-benefit because you think
it's cooler but it's not).
If the heat sink can't be in contact with the
components you intend to cool, you're not really
accomplishing what you set out to do. I suspect
the repairs done at Icom are what really "fixed"
your problem.
73, -KR4WM
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KC0KBH on August 21, 2004
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I have heat problems with my IC-765, so all I did was put 2 12 vdc fans on top of the heat sink. Works perfectly. I would suppose they could even be run off the internal PS.
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by NJ1K on August 21, 2004
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The color of a heat sink will have little or no impact on the cooling efficiency of the heat sink because the heat sink disipates heat through CONDUCTION to air(thus the fan), NOT radiation.... Radiation of heat is transfer of heat DIRECT from one object to another THRUOGH the air... Black WILL radiate better than bare aluminum (assuming the black coating is not an insulator)but will do nothing for AIR cooled heat sinks....
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Other 706 foibles
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by K0BG on August 21, 2004
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The 706 does get hot and the fan runs almost continuously during transmit and receive. I have only heard of one other 706 which failed due to this heat buildup. In that case, it was the case it was in that caused the problem. As one respondent pointed out; it was a closed-loop scenario.
The real foible(s) is the SWR protect and indication, ALC, fan temp control, and power out measurements are all part of the same circuitry. If the rig gets hot (we know it does) the ALC, forward and reflected power indicators are worthless and meaningless. In other words, if you're using the built in metering to set the SWR of a screwdriver antenna and the radio is hot enough to turn on the fan, the SWR reading will be grossly inaccurate and unreliable.
Further, the ALC indication is poor at best. Nonetheless the mic gain should be set when the radio is cool and on a dummy load. As soon as the rig warms up, or there is ANY SWR, the ALC reading is out the window.
Alan, KØBG
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KE4ZHN on August 21, 2004
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I fail to see how adding heatsinks to the case of the rig will help cool the inside components. Perhaps its feasable to replace the stock cooling fan with one more efficient or slightly larger? Having never owned a 706 Im not sure if this is possible, but from the ones I have seen, the stock fan is very small and most likely doesnt move very much air. It may also be a good idea to install a filtered air inlet like those used on computers to allow the fan to draw more air into the case. Just a couple of thoughts.
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WH7EM on August 21, 2004
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Wondering whether the heat problem may have been solved in the 706 Mk IIG, the current model. I run my two-month-old rig in my truck while parked with the engine off, which means the only air flow through the cab is the incidental flow of breezes through the open windows. I'm in the tropics, and in the evening when I am on the air, ambient air temperature has been about 80 degrees F. Even right after a QSO, the rig has never been more than pleasantly warm to the touch. In fact, it doesn't seem any hotter then than it is after running on receive only for several hours.
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KC9GJC on August 21, 2004
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>>Quote: I will send pictures to you as you request rather than post them here since they take up a lot of space.
Rather than doing that, how about uploading them to a free image host like www.imageshack.us? They have unlimited hosting and are on a very fast line.
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 21, 2004
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I never have had the radio in a confined or closed area. I was concerned since the backpacks made for it seems very closed and air tight. The fan always ran even when just listening. The radio was warm to the touch all the time. That is the reason I queried Icom in the first place.
Since I have installed the heat sinks, the fan does not come on so the heat sinks seem to be doing the job I intended them to do. Now it is cool to touch instead which leads me to believe it may survive a lot longer.
The backpack I use now is not as closed as the one specifically made for the radio and allows air to circulate thru the top since it has a loose flap for the closure, just enough to keep rain out.
I had placed a couple of pictures here to give you an idea of what they look like on the radio but aren't posted. I will put them on my FTP and they will accesssible there:
http://members.aol.com:/sirdrakejr/ICOM1 (thru ICOM6)
Thanks for the comments.
73
Frank
KL7IPV
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by AB5XZ on August 21, 2004
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I'm glad to see KL7IPV taking some initiative to solve or prevent problems. We can all sit on our duffs and talk about it, but Frank is DOING something about it. So he doesn't use *Scientific Method*. So what? He's using his mind and trying to improve his ham gear. If his solution works, it will really help his rig last longer. If it doesn't, he and we will all learn something.
73 and hats off to a thinking ham! de TomAB5XZ
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by VE3IVM on August 22, 2004
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The reason why 706 gets hot even in receive mode is that it generates internally 8V and 5V from 12V external power supply. Therefore, lots of the power supply energy is lost as heat. Additionally, the 5V one that feeds digital circuits is located extremely inconveniently- right beside VFO, frequency synthesizer and DSP. Even more than that, it is an SMD stabilizer, it does not have a heatsink at all, and dissipates heat through the copper ground plane, distributing it to the VFO, synthesizer, and its own filter capacitors. Two ballast resistors ,it is connected to, also generate lots of heat.
To get rid of that heat generator, I modified the stabilizer. You can see pictures at
http://am.ca/uve/qra_ic706.html
It is the 6th and 7th pictures from the top.
Sorry, guys, it is not in English, but I think you can get a good understanding what I did by just looking at the pics. I replaced the SMD 7805 with an external 7805 stabilizer, which dissipates heat on the chassis, not on the PCB board, and at the same time I bypassed the ballast resistors.
The old SMD 7805 had 4.8V of output, and the new one now outputs 5V, as it is supposed to be. As a side effect, I found that some of the birdies, my Icom had before, have disappeared completely, and some others become less strong. I credit the voltage increase for that.
Those interested in more details can email me at @rac.ca
That was just one of the heat sources in 706MKIIG. There is one more inside the radio that I know could be modified also, but little can be done about the one located in the control head.
Regards,
Ivan,
VE3IVM
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by W6IZT on August 22, 2004
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I have owned a G model since 2001 and it does get somewhat warm during operation. I removed the internal speaker in hopes that some of the built up heat might vent through the opening formally occupied by the speaker. I like the idea of moving the 5v regulator off of the PC board. Keep the ideas coming!
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by N2XNB on August 22, 2004
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every icom 706 i ever owned got very hot just in rx mode. finally a ham emailed me www.mods.dk where i found the fan mod for the icom 706 series. this basically runs the fan slowly during recieve and picks up speed when txing all the time. this keeps the tranciever so much cooler! i used to take out the speaker and installed a fan sucking air in with a dust cover over it to keep the dust out but the fan mod works without having to do all of this. i basically took a 220 ohm 1 watt fire retardent resister ran it from the red wire on the fan to the red wire on the molex plug ( where the tuner plug for the 706 would plug into) which is 12 volts when the radio is on. this works very well!!! do not use less the a 200 ohm 1 watt resister of the fan gets very loud like the artical says a vacuum cleaner sound!
good luck and no external fins needed.
n2xnb shaun
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WB6LNH on August 22, 2004
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hi, i operate maritime mobile and although i have not had heat problems, i have always had a concern over heat... i use winlink twice a day and am connected on a fast link 30 minutes or so at a time, and also other ham usages, please send pictures to
pelago100@msn.com
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 22, 2004
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WB6LNH and others, I have 6 pictures posted now at:
http://members.aol.com:/sirdrakejr/ICOM1 (thru ICOM6)
Thanks for all the replies.
73
Frank
Las Vegas, NV.
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by K9FE on August 22, 2004
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Although it is not a perfect way to cool the internal of the radio, by lowering the temperature of the outer skin of the radio, he increases the delta T to the components and can dissapate more heat. Not the best solution, but it helps a bit.
My 706MkII G runs pretty warm, (they all seem to) but its mount is fairly open in the car. Since it is mobile, I don't reach the duty cycle of a base during a contest.
Congrats on trying to solve a problem rather than complain about it.
de Mike K9FE
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KC0KBH on August 22, 2004
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I would bet a peltier juction could do better than a heat sink. They can be bought off ebay for 5 for $10. I would think that one would have many good uses around the ham shack.
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 23, 2004
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The complete article with pictures is now posted on the World Radio web site: www.wr6wr.com Look under the articles tab.
73
Frank
KL7IPV
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by NN6EE on August 23, 2004
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KC0BCH,
What is a "Pletier junction"??? And how does it work???
Jim/ee
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KC0KBH on August 23, 2004
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A peltier juction is a device that can range from about 1" x 1" and 1/8 " thick, to about 5" x 5" and a 1/2 " thick. They draw heat from a spot, and the spot that heat is drawn from gets really cold. Here is the Popular Science description: "Peltier Junctions are amazing little devices that look like oversize Chiclets and use electric current and semiconductors to move heat to one side, leaving the other cold. They're typically used to cool PCs in which the main processor has been overclocked to run faster(and, consequently hotter) than the manufacturer intended."
Sorry for the length of that.
I would bet a 5 inch one would keep something like an Icom 765 pretty cold, and silently.
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WY3X on August 23, 2004
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NJ1K said: The color of a heat sink will have little
or no impact on the cooling efficiency of the heat
sink because the heat sink disipates heat through
CONDUCTION to air(thus the fan)...
Speaking as a retired firefighter (and I know how
to get rid of heat!) it's not conduction, it's
"convection". Conduction occurs when two materials
(no air involved) pass heat to one another. Convection
is heat transfer in a gas (air) or liquid by the
circulation of currents from one region to another.
There are three types of heat transfer, conduction,
convection, and radiation. Radiation heat has nothing
to do with ionized radiation (the bad stuff in
nuclear), it's just heat spread across space without
the help of air currents. (Emission and propagation of
energy in the form of rays or waves.) In the case of
mounting heat sinks to the exterior of the radio
cabinet, it would rely heavily on radiated heat from
the internal components as the primary method of heat
dissipation, and that would not be very efficient at
all! (You're just giving the heat a thicker barrier
to penetrate, which is why it doesn't feel as warm
to the touch.)
I was reading on a website the other day which
recommended coloring the internal surfaces of a
tube amp (near the tube(s)) with black magic marker.
The black helps the surface absorb heat radiated by
the tubes into the surrounding metal as opposed to
reflecting the heat back toward the tubes. This
absorbed heat is then spread to the surrounding metal,
where it is convected away by prevailing air currents.
This method works well with radiated heat, but in the
case of an Icom 706, you don't have much radiated
heat. (Much of the radiated heat inside a tube amp
comes from the filaments and tube plates when they
turn cherry red, i.e. infrared heat.) You *DO* have
this barrier of non-moving air between the case and
the components which are generating the heat. Unless
you can move that hot air out of the case, you're not
really cooling anything. It's difficult for me to
explain, but unless you're generating light, you
probably don't have much infrared heat. Other types
of heat don't dissipate through radiation very well.
The best way to cool the inside of a radio like the
706 is to turn it's case into swiss-cheese and mount a
couple of small fans on it, thereby "convection"
cooling it.
Better than mounting the heat sinks on your 706, find
yourself some old "cane metal" and fashion new covers
out of it. If that's not enough, mount some mini-fans
on the cane metal. I bet you won't overheat it any
more!
DISCLAIMER: After this modification, your radio may
become easily affected by RFI or it may cause RFI
to other nearby electronic devices!
-KR4WM
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 24, 2004
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KR5WN, you may correct about creating another barrier to heat leaving the sinks, but not only are the heat sinks cooler to the touch; the whole radio case is. It may be that the repair at Icom took care of the problem as well, I don't know. I do know that the fan does not come on near as often as it used to. My "G" model fan hardly ever seems to run even though the case is as warm to touch as the MkII was before the heat sinks. I guess only time will give me the answer.
73
Frank
KL7IPV
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by N3JWN on August 24, 2004
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I think this is one of the lamest post I've ever read all you need is a 2" fanon the back of the 706 and it will run cool all day long. where do people come up with this stuff!! Dick / n3jwn
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by K5LXP on August 24, 2004
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I would approach this from two angles.
What I would do first is the popular 'fan mod' to allow the fan to operate continuously during receive. What this does is keep the overall chassis temperature a bit lower, so that during transmit you can use some of the radio's thermal mass to soak up a few watts before it's temperature gets too high.
Second, the radio's air exchange happens at the very rear of the radio. Modify the radio's backpack/case to allow a free flow of air to this ingress/egress point. While a fair percentage of heat may transfer out of the radio through the case, the fan has the ability to exhange air through the insides and transfer heat out much more quickly than convection around the outside. So even if you take convection out of the picture by insulating it in a case, with the fan running all the time and a source of ambient air through the back it should keep up with it just fine.
The 706 draws almost 20 watts on standby/receive so it's hard for me to imagine carrying this thing around in a backpack, along with a battery that is large enough to provide a useful operating period. Your basic 7Ah gel cell would be dead long before the radio got hot enough to be an issue. I use my 706 portable but never inside a case. FWIW...
Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WA9SVD on August 24, 2004
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While a Peltier Junction device may be a solution for some people in this situation, or others, it is not a "miracle cure." While it WILL cool an item substantially, the desired cooling is offset by heat generated on the other side of the Peltier device which must be removed; this usually requires a heat sink and often a fan, to accomplish this. Failure to adequately remove the heat from the Peltier device will result in it's damage or destruction. (You don't get something for nothing!)
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by N7NRA on August 24, 2004
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A little more on the Peltier...
I work for Intel Corp. (yeah, the microprocessor guys) and, while I'm not a Peltier expert, as a mechanical designer I do have to design around them occasionally when we use them in laboratory fixtures (they are NEVER used in our products).
The biggest drawback to Peltiers is that in order to use their cooling properties, you have to deal with the heat produced on the other side of the device. This heat comes from two sources: 1) the heat removed from the side that gets cold, and 2) the heat generated by current flow through the device that makes it operate.
So now, in order to get a little "cool" on one spot, you must remove the heat from two sources, rather than one. For a backpacking radio the problems multiply because you have to add additional heat sink area to dissipate the additional heat and you must tote along additional battery capacity to supply (a considerable amount of) current for the Peltier. All in all, a Peltier is not necessarily a good solution for this use. An additional fan would be a much better use of resources.
I'd be interested in knowing whether Frank tested his repaired radio for heat generation before he added the heat sinks. From the photos, and relying on my design experience, I'd guess that the added heat sinks add more weight than cooling capacity to the radio. The fins are very short and therefore don't have enough surface area to dissipate the kind of heat that previously killed the radio. Don't take this as a derogatory comment, Frank. I understand what you were trying to do, but I'm not convinced that your solution, combined with the fact that the new heat sinks are enclosed in a backpack, rather than in open air where they need to be to transfer thermal energy to the air, make me wonder how much good they're really doing.
Regards,
Stew
N7NRA
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by K5LXP on August 24, 2004
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Not to mention the efficiency of a Peltier. Depending on the delta T you're looking for, it could draw more current than the device you're trying to cool. Which means twice or more as much heat to shed than you started with.
Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 25, 2004
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N7NRA,
The radio came back from Icom and it seemed to have the same feeling for heat that it had before I had it repaired. That is why I turned to adding something to carry the heat away from the radio. As far as weight goes, the aluminum sinks weigh near nothing (maybe 6 ounces). The paint I sprayed on the sinks is very thin and if it restricts the air flow, I can't see that it would restrict much.
My radio actually draws 1.2 amps on receive and I have used a 7Ahr battery for three hours on SSB with about 30 minutes of talking for me at 20 watts out. The whole combo of antenna, backpack, radio, Z-100 tuner and battery, cable, etc, actually weighs 21 pounds.
I had it in my vehicle today while testing my new antenna and it didn't warm up nor did the fan come on while the radio was on for an hour. The temp outside the vehicle was 93 degrees. Like I said earlier, time will tell how effective it is in keeping my radio from cooking to oblivion.
73
Frank
KL7IPV
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by G0UIH on August 25, 2004
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Hi - check out this link.
It includes the fan mod that may help.
Have done this mod to my own 706mk2G and have used it on IOTA Dxpeditions without any trouble.
http://svc.cc/706/
73 Steve
G0UIH/VK2IAY/3D2FI
IOTA OC-137/142/160/171/172/121/156
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WA1RNE on August 27, 2004
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You should be able to cool this rig inside a backpack very easily without messing with the OEM heatsink assembly. All that is required is 2 additional parts and a slight modification to your aluminum - or canvas type backpack.
Parts:
(1) Klixon thermostat, type 7BT2F4A-1, normally open, 51 degrees C operating temperature. Try Digikey as a source.
(1) 12 vdc fan, 13CFM, 1.3 watts, Radio Shack #273-239
The venting system for the backpack is key. You seem to have added space between the rig and the pack which is good, allowing air to circulate around the rig.
Next, mount the fan at the bottom on one of the sides of the pack. The key here is to add a moisture and debris diverter over the fan opening. Simply fabricate a diverter out of aluminum spaced about an inch or so from the fan that only allows air to be PUSHED OUT through the bottom vent. SO BE SURE TO MOUNT THE FAN SO IT IS BLOwING AIR OUT OF THE PACK. BE SURE TO KEEP A FLAP OR SIMILAR VENT OPEN AT THE TOP TO ALLOW air to enter the pack.
Mount the Klixon thermostat near the ICOM's air inlet and wire it in series with the fan.
Wire the fan to the 706's accessory socket; PIN 8 has 10.8-12 vdc available when power is turned on. PIN 2 is ground.
The sensor's differential characteristic is such that the fan should turn on when the pack's internal temp. reaches ~120 F and will turn off at ~100 F - which should create a very conservative operating temp. range for the 706. The fan only draws ~1.3 watts so there is minimal battery drain.
Hope this helps....73
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WA5KRP on August 28, 2004
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After reading this thread, I have to laugh. So many ideas about why the low profile black heat sinks shouldn't work, but the radio runs significantly cooler. Scientists who assert a bee cannot possibly fly have theories that can't stand up to empirical results. Same thing here. You're a good ham, Frank.
73 WA5KRP Texas
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KI4BDS on August 28, 2004
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Hey Frank, good article.Icom has heat sinks on the V8000 and the fan air flows thru them. Heat has been a big problem for them. My V8000 gets warm but not hot to the touch and I live in Va., west of Washington and if you,ve been here in the summer you'll know it feels hotter than down south.I agreee w/ the heat sinks he added. Good iniative! Karl KI4BDS
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KI4BDS on August 28, 2004
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Hey Frank, good article.Icom has heat sinks on the V8000 and the fan air flows thru them. Heat has been a big problem for them. My V8000 gets warm but not hot to the touch and I live in Va., west of Washington and if you,ve been here in the summer you'll know it feels hotter than down south.I agreee w/ the heat sinks he added. Good iniative! Karl KI4BDS
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KI4BDS on August 28, 2004
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Hey Frank, good article.Icom has heat sinks on the V8000 and the fan air flows thru them. Heat has been a big problem for them. My V8000 gets warm but not hot to the touch and I live in Va., west of Washington and if you,ve been here in the summer you'll know it feels hotter than down south.I agreee w/ the heat sinks he added. Good iniative! Karl KI4BDS
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WA1RNE on August 28, 2004
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Most of the time, the intent of this site is, you post an article saying "this is how I solved my problem", then you hear what other people think of it.
Some folks agree, some don't, some ask more questions, .......
It's obviously great to hear that Frank solved his problem, but if there's a better way, it might be a good idea to share the thought.
Seems like a pretty natural exchange, so what's so comical about the thread??
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by N2MU on August 29, 2004
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Implicit in the forgoing, is Icom’s failure to design adequate cooling for the rig and the concept of additional heat sinking for the 706 sounds interesting. Heat is perhaps a leading killer of solid state devices and anything that is done to dissipate heat and control the temperature is probably a good thing.
However, I recall a simple revelation that I had with my own IC-706M2G rig immediately after my exciting purchase a couple of years ago. I hooked it up on the ham shack bench to test it before installation. I noted that the rig was getting hotter than my intuition suggested it should while receiving, and became concerned. I made a discovery after opening the rig to install an optional filter. The speaker wires have a choke filter in line and when the speaker cover was replaced the inline filter was folding over the internal fan blades within, preventing fan rotation. After installing the filter I insured that the speaker wires would not interfere with the fan operation upon replacement of the cover and the temperature is now within my intuitive expectations for the rig.
My conclusion of this issue is - make sure all is working properly before pointing your finger at the manufacturer and additional heat dissipation is probably not necessary unless the transmit duty cycle exceeds typical usage. Hank N2MU ...-.- ..
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 29, 2004
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N2MU, I did make sure all was in order BEFORE I did the add-on. The radio had a tendency to get warm from the time it was new. That is why I had been concerned. I thought about putting holes in the covers and the frame and after reading about what it could/may do, I decided against it. The radio is mounted in the backpack on the bracket made for the radio. The radio is mounted so the sinks are toward the bracket to allow air to circulate and carry heat away from the radio without the interference of the fabric of the backpack. So far, so good. Thanks to all for the good comments and additional words of encouragement.
73
Frank
KL7IPV
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KL7IPV on August 29, 2004
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For those who may have missed where the pictures can be seen, here is where:
www.wr6wr.com Look under articles
http://members.aol.com/sirdrakejr/ICOM1 (to ICOM6)
73
Frank
KL7IPV
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RE: Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KB1KIX on August 29, 2004
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When I read this article in "World Radio" magazine, I wasquite surprised. I also felt that my 706 ran a bit on the hot side. Not to mention I do have the case mounted in a "go box". So, heat dissipation was an issue I discovered a couple of weeks before this article appeared.
My solution was a bit different, any comments/critiques would be greatly appreciated as to how you think this would compare. (I haven't gotten any readings, just "feels" like this works.
I took two approx. 2 inch fans and put them on the floor of the box, under the heatsink. These pull air in from outside the case. I then put 2 more fans of the same size above the heat sinks and they are pulling air out of the case.
I don't know how many cf of air I'm moving - I'm sure it's not terribly much. However, I do get plenty of warm air coming out of these vents.
Jonathan
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by KB3ISS on August 29, 2004
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Just today I took an old 12 vdc CPU fan from one of my computers and did a temporary mount to the botton of my radio. All I did was put the fan on the bottom of the radio where the vents are and let the metal stand of the radio fold back which pushes up on the fan against the radio. There are two bumps on the case where the fan fits right in between perfectly holding it there. I have it set in a direction so the fan pulls cool air through the radio and blows down at my desk. It runs cool as a cucumber now. Until I make a permanent way to power the fan, I have the fan power wires tucked into the power plug coming into the radio itself. Try it out if you have a CPU fan, it works great. I might need to add a resistor to slow the fan speed down some, because it is a little louder than I would like.
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Heat Sinks for My IC-706 MkII
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by WA0EAJ on August 31, 2004
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The original IC-706 ALWAYS ran the fan at low speed, then kicked up the RPM on xmit. Unfortunately, this will kill your car battery after a while, just listening without the engine going (I did it in the CO mtns!). My radio is mounted vertically, against the front of the cab rear wall in my Toyota PU. It's between the seat and the mounting plate (right against the cab-wall), which features a taller than factory bracket (better air flow about the package). I've experienced NO problems with this setup, but if I do, I'll attach heatsinks to the SIDES, which are cast metal, which DO conduct substantial heat. Aside from this... install the "slow-fan always-on" mod. It makes the most sense.
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