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Author Topic: Y Joint in Power Cable  (Read 445 times)
K2YO
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Posts: 436




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« on: October 29, 2007, 05:36:31 PM »

Well, you guys where so helpfull with the last question, I figure I'll ask another, hahahaha.

I need to split the 8 gauge power cable into two runs. I don't want to put a Power Pole splitter just for this. The connection will be in the trunk if the car behind a trim panel.

Should I make a solder connection or a mechanical connection? If the wires were smaller, I'd butt splice it together with no thought, but with 8 guage wire it many change things a bit.

I was thinking of wrapping and soldering the wires, off setting the hot and ground splice and then seal the whole thing in shrink tubeing, with the appropriate seperation between hot and ground.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bernie
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K0BG
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Posts: 9879


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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2007, 06:19:19 AM »

Do a Google search for a Bussman 16023 series of blocks. They come in about 10 different configurations. However, most are made to split one power feed into multiple SMALLER feeds. So, it depends on what you're doing.

Alan, KØBG
www.k0bg.com
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KB1LKR
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Posts: 1898




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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2007, 02:38:09 PM »

At 8 AWG you could use a small split bolt type connector (assuming you have room, they're a bit bulky). See McMaster-Carr   http://www.mcmaster.com   or your local electrical wholesaler. Insert the three wires, wrench it down tight & wrap it in vinyl (3M/Scotch #33+ or #88) electrical tape, and/or silicone or EPR self-fusing splicing tape (e.g. 3M/Scotch #23, #70, etc.).

As you say, offset the splices slightly, taping each, and tape or tie-wrap the pair if desired.
 
Soldering and taping or heat-shrinking (including heat-shrinks w/ a melting/encapsulating lining) are another option, but at 3*8 AWG, you're in sizes that are difficult to solder well, but if you have a big soldering iron or soldering copper, is successful, would be more streamlined than split bolts. I don't think I'd attempt soldering much bigger than 3*12 AWG, but if you do, be sure the junction's mechanically sound/strong prior to soldering.

Another option -- if you can: make one run *full* length (source to load), strip a region in the middle of the run, where you need the branch to leave, and solder the branch to the uncut wire (then it looks like a joint of only 2 not 3 10 AWG wires), and seat-shrink or tape that. Initially the branch will leave at 90 degrees (in a T) but you can bend it parallel to the existing wire before soldering if desired.
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