Call Search

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Friends Remembered
Survey Question

DX Cluster Spots

Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement

donate to eham
   Home   Help Search  
Pages: Prev 1 [2]   Go Down
Author Topic: 40 meter Hamstick dipole  (Read 15259 times)

Posts: 14164

« Reply #15 on: February 20, 2009, 07:18:38 AM »

By the way, I was able to compare the HamStick dipole mounted on my deck at about 12-feet high to my full sized 40M dipole at about 45-feet over a 600 mile path. The Hamstick was about 4 S-units below the dipole, but still solid copy.

Posts: 2086

« Reply #16 on: February 20, 2009, 02:50:03 PM »

The ham stick dipole will work, well so will a wire on a fishing pole grounded to the vehicle. A dipole made out of 12' MFJ telescoping whips will work better than the first two. I have done it all. The ham stick dipole I used was down 26 DB from the Johnson DK3 screwdriver in A=B tests. So it really only matters what your frustration level is and how important it is to make a contact. Have fun!

73 de Lindy

Posts: 89

« Reply #17 on: March 03, 2009, 09:51:47 PM »

I've never heard of a broken wire problem with a Hamstick, but as described, it should be easily tested with an ohm meter between the stud at the end of the antenna and the whip. You should see close to zero ohms.

As for the Hamstick Dipole, yes, it works quite well; no antenna tuner req'd. The bandwidth is  narrow - 40 kHz or so, but it does work surprisingly well. Just make sure both whips are outside of each antenna "stick" the same amount, and move the whips in or out no more than about 1" at a time when you adjust the SWR or analyzer.


Posts: 21

« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2009, 06:50:59 PM »

Don't think I have tried a balun with the hamstick dipole. I only have a pair of 75M and then single 40 & 20 ones.

Another suggestion which in no way is diverting from the topic. You may want to check out my article ( "What Antenna Restrictions?" I too needed a solution to my unemployment/trailer park situation and decided to document what I came up with. I hope it helps!!

73 de W8BNL Tom

Posts: 28

« Reply #19 on: September 18, 2009, 07:35:16 AM »

OK.  I'll jump in.  I am apartment bound and use Hamstick dipoles for all bands.  The 75m setup is VERY narrow in bandwith, and you basically set it for ONE frequency.  40m is not quite as narrow and it gets better as you go up in frequency, but I use an LDG auto tuner on all bands.  You should follow the tuning setup furnished by Lakeview for each antenna pair.  I have even recently successfully used one antenna as a vertical and resonated it with a counterpoise on the floor using an MFJ-931 artificial ground.

My 20m dipoles have allowed me to contact over 15 countries, usually on less than 100 watts.  Adjust the antennas as advised by Lakeview and use a tuner.  I also us a DX feedline choke to help prevent TVI.  You may also need one for RF feedback.

Every antenna is a compromise - some more than others.  Hamsticks were designed as mobile antennas, but they can be made to work as a dipole, albiet with their inherent limitations.  I don't know how you can isolate the antenna sufficiently from the truck if you use them in a horizonal configuration.   GOOD LUCK!

Posts: 1

« Reply #20 on: April 29, 2017, 10:02:31 AM »

My 40m Hamstick Dipole is up 16ft and makes contacts over hundreds of miles with 1 watt from my HW-8.

Posts: 3364

« Reply #21 on: April 29, 2017, 12:50:45 PM »

My 40m Hamstick Dipole is up 16ft and makes contacts over hundreds of miles with 1 watt from my HW-8.
  Hamsticks are not the best by far, but they do work!  Plus they are fairly cheap and easy to deploy.  Of course like any other antenna, good band conditions help!

Posts: 3016


« Reply #22 on: April 29, 2017, 05:18:22 PM »

<< I have the Yaesu ATAS120 in addition to the hamstick and am currently not interested in other antennas.>>

With all due respect, you are fixated on two of the poorest performing mobile antennas on the market - especially on 40m.

I second the suggestion to use the Hustler vertical. Even bolted to the roof ladder (if you have one) it will far outperform the hamsticks AND the ATAS 120.

Lon - W3LK
Naugatuck, CT

Due you own or have ever owned and operated an MFJ dipole mount with 40M Hamtennas (Hamstick is a brand name for the now defunct Lakeview antenna line)?  I have a mount along with the 75M, 20m, 15M 10M and 6M Hamtennas.  Used as a vertical on a mobile, they are about as good as most small antennas.  Used as a dipole, the performance is surprising.

Posts: 16493

« Reply #23 on: April 30, 2017, 08:58:21 AM »

I have a set for 40 and 80 in the garage that were given to me to try to
improve the performance.  The problem isn't just the efficiency, but also
problems getting the antennas tuned and keeping them there in a
portable Emcom setup.

The last time they were used on 80m, they had a lot of problens getting
them tuned up.  Just lowering and raising the antenna without making
any adjustments to the whips
would shift the resonance up or down
the band.  And a branch blowing in the wind 5' away caused the SWR to
vary as well.

But that's not to say that they can't work.

Tuning is an issue because the antenna is very short.  You can't get
around that (thought it is worse on 80m than on 40m).  Anything that
changes in the antenna environment that is capacity coupled to the whips
will shift the tuning.  If the shell of your coach is metal, then rotating
the antenna will shift the tuning.  So picking a reasonably clear spot to set
it up will be a big help.

The biggest cause of tuning problems I've seen is lack of an effective
.  Without a balun the coax shield is part of the antenna, and
it's length, what it is connected to, and how the excess is coiled on the
ground will all affect the tuning.  Sure, you don't need a balun,
but it makes the tuning process much more repeatable.  That's why
taking the antenna down and putting it back up shifted resonance all
on its own - the coax ended up arranged differently each time.

There are two different construction methods for the generic "Hamstick"-
type antennas:  on the original Hamstick the antenna was disassembled
by removing the stinger, thereby messing up the adjustment. On some
clones the clamp that holds the stinger unscrews from the rest of the
antenna so you can take it apart for transport without disrupting
the tuning adjustment.

Efficiency on 40m isn't great, but is still usable.  (It's worse on 80m.)
And yet I was able to copy a station on an exercise running an FT-817
at high SWR shutdown.  They weren't moving the meter, but
that's not a lot of output power for a readable SSB signal.  (They
were having trouble getting their antenna tuned...)

You can improve the efficiency somewhat by adding a mobile mast
extension between the mounting bracket and each of the antennas.
4' extensions should bundle nicely with the rest of the antenna parts.
I'd also suggest carrying a set of dipole wires with lugs that fit on
the standard threads so you can use the same support and coax
with a full-sized dipole when you have space to put it up.
(BuddiPole sells such wires with lugs to go with their antennas.)

Posts: 7358

« Reply #24 on: April 30, 2017, 11:12:01 AM »

This might have been covered already here; I have not read every post.

To tune the Hamstick dipole without an antenna analzyer:

1) Tune into a steady carrier. A broadcast station might be steady enough.

2) Set both whips to the same fully extended length.

3) Reduce whip length in 1" increments to find maximum received signal strength.

4) Transmit at that frequency, and up and down the band, while recording the SWR. The frequency of minimum SWR is now known and you now know whether to lengthen or shorten the whips.

5) Fine tune the whips for minimum SWR at the desired frequency.

     KH6AQ, formerly WX7G

« Last Edit: April 30, 2017, 11:14:38 AM by WX7G » Logged

Posts: 16493

« Reply #25 on: April 30, 2017, 03:34:44 PM »

And the SWR bandwidth will be quite narrow.  If you are taking a few SWR readings across the
band you may miss it.

You may be able to tune through the band and listen for where the background noise (and signals)
appear strongest - that may give you a sense of where the antenna is resonant.

But the adjustment is rather sharp.  And keep the two whips the same length as much as you

Posts: 109


« Reply #26 on: May 14, 2017, 05:01:15 PM »

A 40 meter hamstick dipole properly tuned CAN work.  Decades ago when Joe Rudi (NK7U--then WA6PVA) was playing professional baseball I built a bracket that enabled him to take a pair of hamsticks for different bands and use them as a hamstick dipole in hotel rooms when the team was on a road trip.  I worked him many times on 40 meters when he was in a hotel room in Boston or New York or Baltimore and I was in So Cal.  Configuring a 20 meter hamstick dipole he worked a lot of EU and AF from the same places
Pages: Prev 1 [2]   Go Up
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!