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Author Topic: Kenwood TS-820s  (Read 5680 times)
KD0KLH
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Posts: 39




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« on: March 08, 2010, 07:16:10 PM »

I just got my Technician lic and have 2 transceivers
that I had bought.No XT @ 1st,finally got both to work
replaced 12BY7A and after studying operators manual.
I made a Dummy Load from www.K4eaa.com and tested both.
Last one was 31volts=10Watts---Any ideas what I can do?
They should both put out 100 watts.  Thanks
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KF6QEX
Member

Posts: 605




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« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2010, 08:00:18 PM »

Did you use his tuning  instructions?
Is it ~10W on all bands?
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AI7RR
Member

Posts: 164




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« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2010, 09:48:27 AM »

Sounds like you may be taking your readings when in the Tune mode. To get full output while tuning, you must switch to CW Mode, set the switch to Send, then close your key. The tuning procedure doesn't tell you this, per se.

73,,Roger
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KE4DRN
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Posts: 3729




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« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2010, 04:16:11 PM »

hi Gene,

are you using an external wattmeter or the internal one?

please join other ts-5xx/8xx fans at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TS-520_820_530_830/

73 james
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KD0KLH
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Posts: 39




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« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2010, 06:37:46 AM »

Sorry taking so long to answer on this board.

1. I have rec>50 ohm Dummy Load (home made kit from
www.K4eaa.com)

I replaced the 12BY7A  bought from K4eaa.com
Took top cover off   all 3 tubes light
Reading my operating manual: page 18
Plate Idling current
I chose 10 meter 28,400Mhz Tech Lic for SSB range
Mode>TUN>send no IP ma   Bias adj full clockwise
just slight deflection

page 19  mode USB or LSB     IP   send    adj bias 60ma
Which I did,now reads 60ma

Drive Tuning>ALC>Tun>no meter reading  used Drive control
and CAR Control

Plate Tuning>IP>Tun>send   meter slight deflection neg

CW>RF>Send  no meter reading
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KD0KLH
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Posts: 39




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« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2010, 06:54:02 AM »

Switch to Mode CW>ALC  no reading
               CW>IP     60ma
               Tun>HV     900v
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K6LO
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Posts: 226




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« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2010, 08:25:12 AM »

Your ">" flow chart format is a little hard to follow for me, but I think what I am reading is that you have 60ma of bias reported when the mode switch is in SSB (correct) and can't get the radio to tune-up in CW mode to the nominal 160ma that a TS-820 will draw on ten meters.

In "tun" are you getting any ALC deflection with the carrier control fully clockwise.  You should see at least some, but on ten meters it will not be as high as the rest of the bands.

Is a key inserted in the key jack?  Using the send/rec switch in CW with a key inserted will not work.  You must press the key, or enter the tune mode on your electronic keyer, if it has one.

The carrier control pot has a tendancy to get dirty and spotty at the lower range.  Work it a bit to see if that helps.

73 - Luke
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AD6KA
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Posts: 2238




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« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2010, 08:34:35 AM »

To KD0KLH:

With all due respect, you don't know what you are even doing when it comes to tuning up these TS-820's of yours. You have started multiple threads and made numerous posts on this very subject over at the QRZ.com help forum. Your multiple conflicting and nonsensical statements over there indicate that you are in effect chasing your own tail.

First you weren't even using a dummy load, you were trying to tune into a G5RV, with part of the ladderline up against a metal drain spout. Then you got a dummy load but didn't know how to hook it up. Then you said that had an auto tuner in line "in manual". Then you admitted that you didn't even know if the auto tuner was working. Finally you admitted to breaking down and actually **reading** the auto tuner manual and now had it ALL figured out, and everything was hunk dory...thanks everbody for posting, etc,etc. Now ONE DAY LATER you are back to square one on another forum with the original "No power out from TS-820's" problem. Oh yeah, you were also diving into the HV finals section and taking voltage measurements because you were convinced that the HV meter was wrong.

The consensus of some *very* experienced hams was that you need a real live Elmer to help you in person, before you hurt yourself or damage your radios (if you haven't done so already). One gentlemen was kind enough to give you a list of the names and addresses of hams living in your town. Have you availed yourself of this very valuable resource? Or looked into going to a club meeting and asking someone to help you? Or have you just jumped to another fourum to ask the same questions and expecting different answers?

If you walked down the same strange, dark alley 3 times and got mugged 3 times, would you do it again? Because that's what you are doing, walking down the same dark, strange alley and expecting not to get mugged.

I expect that eventually here you will get the same answer you got over at QRZ. Save yourself some grief and an Elmer.

I mean all of the above with respect, and with the hope that you get your rigs up and running so you can enjoy your HF privileges.

73, Ken   AD6KA
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KD0KLH
Member

Posts: 39




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« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2010, 08:39:39 AM »

I tried ALC   40 meters  and  10 meters
  CAR Full Clockwise    no movement
  Cw  w/o key  IP is 60 ma


   I have a second TS 820s  I'll try it
    50 ohm Dummy Load
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W5RKL
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Posts: 893




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« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2010, 08:45:23 AM »

It appears he has moved his questions from qrz.com to eham.net.

The links below are his qrz.com postings.

It appears he has ignored suggestions/recommendations from numerous hams on what steps to take. One responder even provided hams local to him and it appears he has ignored that as well.

http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=240521

http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=240366

http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=240046


http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=239959


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AD6KA
Member

Posts: 2238




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« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2010, 08:49:55 AM »

" Save yourself some grief and an Elmer."

Sorry, that was a slip.
Meant to write "Save yourself some grief and *get* an Elmer".
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KD0KLH
Member

Posts: 39




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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2010, 08:50:26 AM »

OK I tried second rig  Mode Tune ALC  send reads MAX
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K9FON
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Posts: 1012




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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2010, 09:19:53 AM »

Do u have a radio club? If so go to a meeting and find an elmer before you destroy that great old rig.
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AD6KA
Member

Posts: 2238




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« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2010, 09:57:02 AM »

"OK I tried second rig Mode Tune ALC send reads MAX"

This was adjusted with the Drive control, correct?
***ONLY in TUN mode should ALC read MAX****.
(In CW & SSB it should be within the normal range. Adjust for this later)
Use “CAR” in CW Mode, or Mic Gain in SSB to adjust ALC….but not right this second!)

Now, while still in TUN mode, switch meter to Ip and quickly DIP Plate current to Min with Plate control….should read about 75ma.

Now, quickly switch meter to RF output., Then PEAK the RF Output by alternately adjusting Plate and Load controls…..Peak should deflect 1/3 scale.
Why only 1/3 scale? TUN lowers output so as not to stress the tubes while tuning.

Unkey SEND, then look at the chart on the top of page 20 to See what Ip, ALC, and RF readings should be for CW & SSB.

Get that auto tuner out of line. You only need one antenna conection right now radio->dummy load. Well, an external wattmeter inbetween would be great, but...
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KD0KLH
Member

Posts: 39




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« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2010, 10:18:16 AM »

I used Mode Tune ALC  & Drive control Max@ 10:00 o'clock
on 7.000Mhz   Plate will not change meter
At 7.226Mhz  reads 250mA    At 7.243Mhz  reads 0ma
on same Drive control setting
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