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Author Topic: connecting the rig to the PC for Fldigi  (Read 2341 times)
G3XDH
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« on: July 04, 2010, 04:33:42 AM »

Not been into Digital before but saw mention of Fldigi in Practical Wireless (UK) this month & decided to give it a try ..

First problem ..  Huh The guides have been written by experts and haven't been checked out by inperts ..

I have a Kenwood TS480 SAT .. & PC running XP .. just how do I connect them .. guide says connect to input & output of sound card  .. from what on the TS480? .. also wondered ,can I use a serial to USB connector and so connect to a USB port on the PC ..


probably more queries later to learn all the jargon

thanks for any help you can give   Grin

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G0GQK
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« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2010, 02:20:13 PM »

You will need an interface to connect your tranceiver to your PC. Perhaps it will help if you Google PSK and there will be lots of items you can read and some diagrams which will illustrate the connections. I suggest you start with a simple PSK software such as Airlink Express or Digipan and both can be downloaded from www.xs4all.nl/~nl9222. Help in making the connections for Digipan can be downloaded from the KK7UQ page, find him by Googling. Interfaces are available from M0OAC and G3VFP, again, Google the call signs and their web pages will appear. If you require further help join the Yahoo PSK 31 group where there are members who can help

Regards,  Mel G0GQK
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VA7CPC
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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2010, 12:10:14 AM »

Before you get utterly confused, read this piece on digital modes vs. CAT control:

http://www.eham.net/articles/23794

The brochure says:

" The TS-480HX/SAT can be connected directly to a computer for the increasingly popular PSK31 mode."

That _probably_ means that you can use the 6-pin mini-DIN connector on the rear of the TS-480, and run :

. . . DATA OUT from the TS-480 to LINE IN (or MIC IN) on the PC;

. . . DATA IN from the TS-480 to LINE OUT (or HEADPHONE OUT) on the PC

If the rig supports "digital VOX", that's all you'll need to send and receive PSK31.  The manual (under "PSK31" or "Packet") should tell you what's necessary.

Getting CAT control working can be a bit of a bear, if your computer doesn't have a serial port.   If there's a Yahoo group for the TS-480, the guys on it should be able to guide you.

              Charles
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K4RKY
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« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2010, 08:38:18 PM »

Before I purchased my signal link interface (Tigertronics ) I used VOX and my soundcard. I use an older radio but the set up is common. I connected the speaker port (rear of radio) to MIC IN on rear of computer then I connect a second line from speaker (AUDIO) out from computer to external speaker set near the microphone and it worked really well. You will have to make a few adjustment in the sound card and recording settings in the computer.  Cool
GL via K4RKY
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Rick ^i^
G3XDH
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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2010, 12:26:38 AM »

Thanks for all the replies ..

I have enough info to try things out now ..

I generally work only portable from my caravan (trailer) so will have to lash up a shack in the den and a temp antenna to try a few things out ..

any further commennts welcomed ..

thanks again
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G3XDH
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« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2010, 02:22:59 AM »

I have been working PSK now just using the mikes & speakers ..   (and ear defenders!)

now looking to get a wired interface ..

the Buxcomm Rascal II looks the most elegant  ..  generates vox/ptt from the signal so no USB/serial port connection needed  .. but really would like to build my own interface  ..

does anyone know a similar circuit to that in the rascal?

thanks
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STAYVERTICAL
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« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2010, 03:53:58 AM »

I have built 5 digital interfaces and have committed about every sin against good construction practices. If you build an interface make sure you factor in putting ferrite suppression cores everywhere RF may possibly enter. Otherwise you will be driven crazy by peculiar problems which vary with mode, band, antenna and probably how many ducks are flying over your van.
I know some guys have luck with direct connections, but I would counsel to at least put in audio transformers to isolate the soundcard input and output connections. Keep the rig and PC isolated, earth wise, otherwise you may get ground loops and hum. Also, put a 330-330 ohm resistive divider across the soundcard output line before it enters the transformer, otherwise you may find your signal "taking off" and being very touchy to control.
I have solved problems for two guys by this simple addition.
As regards PTT control, as some posts have suggested the digital vox will work, but I like to take more direct control so use a simple 4n25 optoisolator interface with a USB to serial port adaptor off my notebook PC.

Having said this, my homebrew interface is now RF proof and works great, and for some purposes there is no substitute for this type of onboard soundcard interface. For example when I use an old 500mhz notebook pc with USB1.1 ports only. It will not run fast enough to support USB soundcard type interfaces, but works fine with Fldigi and the onboard soundcard.

However, and keeping in mind all the above, if you have a modern PC with a USB2 port available, consider using an external soundcard USB based interface. I have personal experience with the Tigertronics USB signalink interface and can attest to it being a very simple to use and robust solution. Check out the eham reviews (USB signalink) and you will see I am not alone in my praise of this interface.
It is also one of the more reasonably priced interfaces and, in my experience (I have two) is superior to many costing much more.
I would really suggest studying the eham reviews, as they tend to be a pretty good indication of what to expect. Being a very active digimodes operator, I hear the USB signalink being used time and time again. It is also neat and tidy to use. Plug the usb cable into the PC, plug the radio cable into the radio. Job done. The main issues you will encounter are operating system issues, but windows is mostly plug and play, as the interface appears just as another soundcard.
I only have Yaesu radios (ft897d and ft817nd) but they both use the 6 pin mini-din connector.
I don't know if the pinouts are the same as your radio, but in any case, if you decide to go the USB signalink route, you simply order the correct cable and jumper block and you should be good to go.

As regards digimodes programs, I know many people suggest digipan, but I would not go this route. Digipan is an old dinosaur which is great if you only want to run a few modes without much sophistication. But Flidigi is worth perservering with, and is much simpler than Ham Radio Deluxe (another great program) for example.
Fldigi is not really very hard to master, and gives you all the popular modes, RSID mode identification and so many other useful functions that it should be the beginners program of choice. Then when your contact asks you if you could run FELD HELL, Olivia or many other modes, you can quickly and easily try the new mode.
Digipan is great for the occasional PSK user but if you want to become a hard core digimodes user, let digipan rest in peace, your time is better spent with the small extra effort to learn Fldigi.

Do read the eham reviews, sometimes a good product is destroyed by poor customer service if you have problems or need to contact the manufacturer.
This happens more frequently than you may think.
Welcome to digimodes, you will have a great time.
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G3XDH
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« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2010, 02:05:36 AM »

Thanks again .. my current plan is to build my own, based on various circuits I have found, including one from a recent RSGB RadCom magazine ..  using a USB soundcard and taking the PTT from the right channel from the signal that fldigi provides ..

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VA7CPC
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« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2010, 05:37:52 PM »

Good choice.

Using a separate USB soundcard means that you won't be messing around with the "main" PC soundcard levels.

                 CHarles
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