Call Search
     

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Community
Articles
Forums
News
Reviews
Friends Remembered
Strays
Survey Question

Operating
Contesting
DX Cluster Spots
Propagation

Resources
Calendar
Classifieds
Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement
About eHam.net

   Home   Help Search  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Nissan Rogue...how to mount antenna w/o drilling or scratching the paint?  (Read 2143 times)
W6UX
Member

Posts: 96


WWW

Ignore
« on: July 16, 2010, 01:50:04 AM »

I'm in the preliminary planning stages for my first mobile installation.  This will be on our new Nissan Rogue (2009).  The wife is excited to have this installed, but it needs to be done neat and without messing up our paint job.

Ultimately, I'd probably get something like a Little Tar Heel II antenna.  I'd like to mount it off the rear hatch (as high up as possible) on the left side.  It looks decent and I want the antenna at the roof line if possible.  My concern is whether something like a Diamond K400 mount is going to scratch the exterior paint.

The radio and antenna will only be installed for trips, and removed when not traveling.

I see a couple options, all are compromises since we're not going to use a mag mount in the center of the roof or drill holes in the body...

a) Mount the antenna on the rear hatch as high as possible (with something like a K400 mount)
b) Mount it on the trailer hitch down low (probably the worst choice)
c) Fabricate a 2x2 inch steel post that rises from the hitch about 4 feet to get the antenna up high (and hope the post can be grounded well enough to the frame)

I need this to work well enough to enjoy with a 100w radio like a 706mk2, ic-7000 or 857d (or an older, cheaper 100w mobile rig).  It doesn't have to be the best or quietest reception, but I don't want to have so much noise I can't use the darn thing.

What say the mobile experts?

I will be spending the better part of tomorrow combing through K0BG's website for tips and advice.
Logged
K0BG
Member

Posts: 9845


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2010, 05:59:41 AM »

Rather than rehash everything, go to my web site, and look around.

Two things you'll discover. First, clip mounts do as much, if not more body damage, than ballmounts do. There is even a photo or two on the site which shows what happens.

Short, stubby antennas are rather popular because of their diminutive size (they cost the same as their larger stable mates), and apparent ease of mounting. If you don't care who (or when) you talk to, they work as good as any. The truth is, they're from 15 dB to 25 dB lossier than full-sized stable mates.

Of the three models you're looking at, the Icom IC-7000 is the latest design. The 706 is out of production. The Yaesu 857 is about a 12 years old design, and a little long in tooth.

As for the noise, that comes with the territory, especially when using short, stubby antennas.
Logged

VE3XKD
Member

Posts: 51




Ignore
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2010, 04:16:24 PM »

Ahhh

Been there, done that. I had the same intent for my Toyota Prius. The Diamond mount scratched the hatch paint and both the scratch in the car and the mount rusted after one year. The stubby antenna was not a great performer so I sold the mount and the stubby.

I ended up drilling holes, and center mounting the HF antenna in the roof after much labour, re-enforcing and effort.

However the results are worth the effort. As my teenagers say...Dad you have the coolest car around and it's neat to talk to those guys in Germany on the radio when driving us to school.....

Logged
WB2WIK
Member

Posts: 20547




Ignore
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2010, 05:17:11 PM »

Ahhh

Been there, done that. I had the same intent for my Toyota Prius. The Diamond mount scratched the hatch paint and both the scratch in the car and the mount rusted after one year. The stubby antenna was not a great performer so I sold the mount and the stubby.

I ended up drilling holes, and center mounting the HF antenna in the roof after much labour, re-enforcing and effort.

However the results are worth the effort. As my teenagers say...Dad you have the coolest car around and it's neat to talk to those guys in Germany on the radio when driving us to school.....



Yep.  Drilling/punching holes properly does a lot less "damage" to a vehicle than screwing around with mag mounts, clip mounts, bracket mounts, etc.

I've done this with every car I've ever owned (about 20) and the impact on resale value is "zero."  Nobody cares.  Remove the antenna, leave the mount, nobody sees it.

I've even done this with leased cars, and when I turned them in, there was no penalty -- although they DO charge a penalty if you have scratches.  Through hole mounts make no scratches.
Logged
K9WI
Member

Posts: 27




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2010, 09:24:16 AM »

Alan will not like this, but it works for me...

I use the roof rack on my Rogue.  I used two box shaped metal bars, about 4 feet long, and U-bolts to mount between the roof racks,.  Then I used 2 L shaped bars to tie the box bars at their ends, extending back towards the rear lift.  I then used a third L shaped bar to tie the two L bars at the back of the Rogue. From this third L bar I ran to wide pieces of brading to the two lift supports.

For mounting the radios with remote heads, I replaced the spare tire cover that covers the front half of the spare tire with a piece of plywood.  I used a piece of 6 inch copper flashing as grounding on the plywood and again used a wide piece of braiding to tie tie the flashing to the frame.
Logged
W6UX
Member

Posts: 96


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2010, 09:51:06 AM »

Alan will not like this, but it works for me...

I use the roof rack on my Rogue.  I used two box shaped metal bars, about 4 feet long, and U-bolts to mount between the roof racks,.  Then I used 2 L shaped bars to tie the box bars at their ends, extending back towards the rear lift.  I then used a third L shaped bar to tie the two L bars at the back of the Rogue. From this third L bar I ran to wide pieces of brading to the two lift supports.

For mounting the radios with remote heads, I replaced the spare tire cover that covers the front half of the spare tire with a piece of plywood.  I used a piece of 6 inch copper flashing as grounding on the plywood and again used a wide piece of braiding to tie tie the flashing to the frame.

How did you run the power cable? It looks like we're going to have to drill a dedicated hole in the firewall (somehow, if we can get to it) to run the factory power cables that came with the radio.
Logged
K0BG
Member

Posts: 9845


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2010, 06:06:36 AM »

Everyone seemingly has their pet way of doing things, and that pretty well says it all when it comes to mobile installs.

To answer your original question about the firewall... I haven't had a chance to stop by the Nissan dealership, and look at the Rouge specifically. I have to assume it is very similar to the Altima. As I mentioned before, the teat on the main wiring grommet appears to be just large enough for a pair of #8s. If I get the chance, I'll stop by, and have a look.
Logged

K9WI
Member

Posts: 27




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2010, 07:18:20 PM »

I didn't run the power cables myself, I hired a stereo shop to do it.  The way that the engine sits under the cowling, with the firewall set back, I didn't think I could do it myself.

The installer came in on the drivers side.  I suppose it might have been because the battery is on that side.

I had them run two cables.  Stereo shops usually only run the positive, so that raised an eyebrow.  I also asked that both cables be fused at the battery, but I like the fuses they used.  They were the patch style fuses with pigtails and soldered to the new cables.  I replaced them with fuse blocks fastened to a little shelf I made that I attached to the inside of the engine compartment.
Logged
K0BG
Member

Posts: 9845


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2010, 07:26:53 AM »

The fuse block replacement was a smart move. I just do not like anything you have to butt splice into place. I had one of those fail once, and caused a lot of apprehension (I'm being polite here!).
Logged

Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!