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Author Topic: Mobile in my work car....  (Read 3658 times)
K9YLI
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Posts: 872




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« Reply #15 on: December 29, 2010, 08:01:04 AM »

My 97 chev mini van and now the  03 olds sillowette  have a  "power plug,"  front and rear.  trhey are not   lighter plugs anymore.
lap tops , cell phones, gps..  high current with high current wireing.

to mount a mobile rig, temporarily.  cut a piece of  2x4 that will slide into one of the handy  pockets they put in dashes now.
then mount the radio to the 2x4.   slide rigth out.
or if older vehicle and has an ash tray,
go to a junk yard, buy and ash tray to fit.
mount the radio  to the ash tray..
 restore the vehicle with the original ash tray, with out holes.

if  fuse box is under the dash, there should be a "batt"  position that
is hot all the time or   "acc"  that is hot withteh key  in either pos, run or acc.

alligator clip, and wire to feed the radio..

usually the mounting  is a bigger problem than finding power.

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K0BG
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Posts: 9878


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« Reply #16 on: December 29, 2010, 08:50:27 AM »

The last thing you want to use to power a transceiver is an accessory power port! The wiring is inadequate, as most are wired with #16, and the voltage drop is excessive. If you want to see what happens when you use one for an amateur radio, go here: images/wiring/wirefire.jpg

The arrow is pointed at an accessory power plug.
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K1CJS
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Posts: 6042




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« Reply #17 on: December 29, 2010, 10:28:41 AM »

In most newer vehicles, the cigarette lighter and the power port are wired to the same fuse.  And saying that the wiring is sixteen gauge may well be pushing it, especially on foreign cars.  The fuse used on that circuit is either fifteen or twenty amps, being that large to be able to take a current surge when the lighter is pushed in--but definitely NOT for extended current draw.

Another thing that you have to remember is that the usual automotive fuse is made to fail when the circuit is shorted--not when it is drawing what may well be the maximum current rating of the wiring.

If you change vehicles daily and want to be safer, get about ten feet of ten gauge dual color (red and black) zip cord.  Most ham electronics outlets on the internet sell the stuff.  Put a couple of battery clips on one end with a twenty amp fuse on the positive lead.  Run that in the engine compartment with twist ties to keep it out of the way of moving parts, poke it out of the hood and in through the weatherstripping on the passenger door.  MAKE SURE IT WON'T BE PINCHED ENOUGH TO BREAK THE INSULATION. 

Put a connector on the inside end and plug your transceiver into that.  Now you can run it at any power level.  If you have the same vehicle every day, run the wire through the firewall and put terminal ends on the battery end of the wire.  Plug your transceiver in as mentioned above and you'll be good to go.

If your boss won't let you do that, there's a good chance he doesn't want you to use your rig in the vehicle anyway--and you'll be safer all around just leaving it home.
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