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Author Topic: Re-wire Ameritron 811H to 240.  (Read 2536 times)
W9KDX
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« on: September 09, 2011, 06:20:37 PM »

As usual, the owner manual from Ameritron assumes I know where to look in the amp ( I am looking at the manual, don't have the amp) so I have a couple of quick questions.  It looks that when I find the circuits I am looking for, I need to leave the A to 1 and B to 2 wires as they are but I need to disconnect any connections between C to D, D to E, E to F.  Pretty simple, I just want to confirm this.

Also, as I will be adding plugs to a cord myself, does anyone have a cheap source for plugs?  I already have the outlet.  Google is not helping here.

Thanks guys.
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Sam
W9KDX
W3LK
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« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2011, 06:30:45 PM »


Also, as I will be adding plugs to a cord myself, does anyone have a cheap source for plugs?  I already have the outlet.  Google is not helping here.

Thanks guys.


Home Depot, Lowes, any electrical supply house or other big box store. Under $10.
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N4JTE
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« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2011, 07:54:55 PM »

I gave up on the 220 hookup due to the manual confusion, but a little research convinced me that a dedicated 15 amp 110 circuit will do as well based on PS specs.
Bob
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W8JX
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« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2011, 08:41:47 PM »

I gave up on the 220 hookup due to the manual confusion, but a little research convinced me that a dedicated 15 amp 110 circuit will do as well based on PS specs.
Bob

You can get by on 115 with some amps but it is never as good or stable as 230 is
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N1OD
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Posts: 56




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« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2011, 09:05:34 PM »

I rewired mine because I already had a dedicated 240V outlet for it.

The jumpers are soldered in place.  Try not to do like I did and let the jumper get away from you when the solder lets go.  It falls down to the bottom of the amp and hides in an inaccessible crevice as close to high voltage as it can get.  I didn't enjoy having to turn that heavy thing upside down to shake the jumper out of the chassis.

Best of luck.

Paul N1OD
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N1OD
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Posts: 56




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« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2011, 09:23:44 PM »

STOP; To rewire for 240V you remove the jumpers from C to D and E to F, but you add one from D to E.  The diagram in the manual is confusing, but what they are trying to say is no connections from C to D and E to F, but D and E must be jumpered.  I promise.  That's the one I dropped in the chassis.  The connections are accessible through a removable panel on the back of the amplifier.

The 811H was my first amp and it was a pleasure to use.  It never gave me a minutes trouble, and tolerated my initial insecure fumbling while tuning.  I still have it as my back-up amp.

Paul

« Last Edit: September 09, 2011, 09:30:04 PM by N1OD » Logged
W9KDX
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Posts: 771




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« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2011, 04:31:29 AM »

STOP; To rewire for 240V you remove the jumpers from C to D and E to F, but you add one from D to E.  The diagram in the manual is confusing, but what they are trying to say is no connections from C to D and E to F, but D and E must be jumpered.  I promise.  That's the one I dropped in the chassis.  The connections are accessible through a removable panel on the back of the amplifier.

The 811H was my first amp and it was a pleasure to use.  It never gave me a minutes trouble, and tolerated my initial insecure fumbling while tuning.  I still have it as my back-up amp.

Paul



Thanks much, you are right it can be interpreted two ways.  As always, you guys are much more reliable than owner's manuals.  You would think that the least they could do would be to include an illustration of what is needed, but I guess that would be too much effort.
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Sam
W9KDX
W8JI
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« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2011, 05:30:04 AM »

I just looked at that.

I agree it needs to tell the location, but I miss why it is so confusing. Is the confusing part instead of the chart that says:

240 A to 1, B to 2 no connection C to D      230 1 to 2, (A,B OPEN) D to E      220 A to 2, B to 1 no connection E to F

Are you asking for no connection chart, and all pictures?
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N1OD
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Posts: 56




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« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2011, 07:54:02 AM »

I just looked at that.

I agree it needs to tell the location, but I miss why it is so confusing. Is the confusing part instead of the chart that says:

240 A to 1, B to 2 no connection C to D      230 1 to 2, (A,B OPEN) D to E      220 A to 2, B to 1 no connection E to F

Are you asking for no connection chart, and all pictures?

I recant everything I said about the manual being confusing.  My goal was to make sure Sam got the connections correct, not to make a negative statement about Ameritron or the people who write their manuals.  I actually went out of my way to put in a good word for the amp.  My apologies.


Paul
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NO2A
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Posts: 843




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« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2011, 01:22:11 PM »

Just curious what the current drain is with the `811H? I think the original 3-tube version was 8 amps at 120 volts. I`m not sure you`d see much difference in going to 240v. Since you already have a recepticle for it might as well.
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W8JI
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« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2011, 01:30:11 PM »

  My goal was to make sure Sam got the connections correct, not to make a negative statement about Ameritron or the people who write their manuals.  I actually went out of my way to put in a good word for the amp.  My apologies.


Paul

I'm only trying to figure out what can make it better. Pictures?

I see it is missing anything that describes where the jumpers are.
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N4JTE
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Posts: 1159




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« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2011, 05:29:01 PM »

Tom only thing confusing to me was that the amp, new, and manual did not reflect the actual shipped 110 connection as illustrated.
Straps were not were not the same after opening up and looking at them, manual might not have kept up with the model they went out with. Made any 230 hookup a little too exciting, however as stated there is no upside to that mod unless you're running off an extention cord from an overused 110 outlet.
Regards,
Bob
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W9KDX
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« Reply #12 on: September 12, 2011, 05:50:08 PM »

Thanks guys, based on W8JI's recommendations in a different thread, I am going to leave the amp in 110 as I have a dedicated 20 amp line already there.
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Sam
W9KDX
W3LK
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« Reply #13 on: September 13, 2011, 07:14:28 AM »

Thanks guys, based on W8JI's recommendations in a different thread, I am going to leave the amp in 110 as I have a dedicated 20 amp line already there.

There's no compelling reason to switch to 240V with a dedicated 120V/20A line. I ran my AL-80A on such a line for almost five years with no,problem. When I retired and moved I installed a 240V/20A line for the amp and there is no difference is output/performance with the change. Since I had to install a line for the amp anyway, I just went ahead with the 240.

Personally, I would have bought a used 80B (or even a used 80A) over a new 811 or 811H.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2011, 07:16:11 AM by W3LK » Logged

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W8JI
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« Reply #14 on: September 13, 2011, 07:17:25 AM »

Tom only thing confusing to me was that the amp, new, and manual did not reflect the actual shipped 110 connection as illustrated.
Straps were not were not the same after opening up and looking at them, manual might not have kept up with the model they went out with. Made any 230 hookup a little too exciting, however as stated there is no upside to that mod unless you're running off an extention cord from an overused 110 outlet.
Regards,
Bob

Great Bob, I watch for things that can be made better.  I'll look at the stock wiring. I see one thing that could be made better in the connection chart.
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