Call Search
     

New to Ham Radio?
My Profile

Community
Articles
Forums
News
Reviews
Friends Remembered
Strays
Survey Question

Operating
Contesting
DX Cluster Spots
Propagation

Resources
Calendar
Classifieds
Ham Exams
Ham Links
List Archives
News Articles
Product Reviews
QSL Managers

Site Info
eHam Help (FAQ)
Support the site
The eHam Team
Advertising Info
Vision Statement
About eHam.net

   Home   Help Search  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Power poll connection....  (Read 2961 times)
KE7EYX
Member

Posts: 43




Ignore
« on: March 04, 2013, 06:54:50 PM »

Wondering what everyone uses to connect their equipment to their various power supplies( base/mobile/portable) these days?
Seem to notice alot of people tend use the anderson power poll connection set up any more? don't get me wrong think they work just fine.
Budget plays a big role depicting what any ham wants to go after from a simple rig on a desk to their dream shack.

Guess survey question is along the lines of what do you for power connections to equipment and or between power cord from equipment and power supply?

Most stock mobile equipment comes with the "T" power connection unless its HF and bare on the other end. Do you keep that stock connection an put anderson polls or ring terminals on the other end or do you get all fancy an cut the factory connection off an change it as well as the bare end?

What do you do if you get a piece of equipment that has power polls on it from previous owner and you don't use them. Thow a kink into that there is not alot of power cord left to cut an put a new head on to.


Just throwing some food for thought questions out there to see what you do?  I myself think outside the box when get run across these kind of things, usually end up cobbling sometimes ugly but functional adapter to get the job done.


Happy Polling!!!    Cheesy

Logged
K8AXW
Member

Posts: 3827




Ignore
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2013, 08:45:20 PM »

EYX:  I'm a firm believer in the Anderson Power Pole connector.  I've converted all of my 13.8vdc gear to the Power Poles and the present accepted configuration. 

Regardless of what my gear came with, either new or used, it gets the Anderson Power Pole treatment.

Logged
KE4DRN
Member

Posts: 3722




Ignore
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2013, 09:01:50 PM »

hi,

Save the oem T conector and mate it to the powerpoles, this can
provide you with a way to power the radio when if are in an  situation
where no powerpole  connections are available.

73 james
Logged
KE4VVF
Member

Posts: 61




Ignore
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2013, 11:17:32 PM »

In my shack and mobile everything has Anderson Power pole connectors.  That includes all other nonamateur electronics that run on 13.8 V like a scanner and even my old e-book. 

I swap out radios in my truck and it's much easier to switch radios with Power Poles than fuss with the locks on the "T" connecters.  It's also easier to add fuse blocks and Volt/Amp meters in line if you use Power Poles. 

Use the Standard ARES/RACES orientation for Power Poles so it makes swapping radios and power supplies quick and easy in the field or at the club house.  Here is a link to the standard orientation: http://www.ocraces.org/images/powrpole.gif

Power Poles are pretty cheap to use if you get an inexpensive hand crimper like the MFJ-7602 ($15) instead of spending big bucks for the Anderson Crimping Tool ($219.99).




Logged
KB4QAA
Member

Posts: 2367




Ignore
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2013, 08:55:49 AM »

I converted all my radios to Power Poles a dozen years ago.  It has made life much easier.  I have Rig Runner strips in the shack, car and on my portable battery pack.  I leave the OEM connectors in place.

The $10 plier-crimpers are adequate, but not ideal.  Power Werx has a rachet crimper that makes a perfect crimp every time, for around $50.  Cheapest way is find a buddy and borrow his.

The Anderson Power Poles do have draw backs.  They can slip apart (yes you can glue them or use roll pins), they do not have very good retention, they don't fully insulate the conductors, they don't provide good support for the conductors, they aren't very good for small conductors.  Still for general amateur use, in fixed indoors settings they are adequate.   They beat 2 pin Jones Plugs and cheap Molex connectors!
Logged
N6AJR
Member

Posts: 9906




Ignore
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2013, 09:09:45 AM »

to make PP's semi permenant, I use a very small zip tie to hold 2 sets together. pulled snug and they will stay for ever,  cut the tie and pull apart. also works on a PP to a rig runner. In a pinch you can use a twistie tie off a bread wrapper.
Logged
K8AXW
Member

Posts: 3827




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2013, 08:53:31 PM »

I choked on the ridiculous price of the Anderson Power Pole crimper!  I bought the Klein tool #1006 and it does a great job.  At the time I bought it I paid $25.00 at an electrical supply house.  It might be available these days from Home Depot or Lowe's.

Amazon has it:  http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=klein%201006&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aklein%201006

As for the "shortcomings," all can be dealt with.  As AJR points out small wire ties can handle the retention.  As for "not insulating the conductors," this isn't a problem if the conductor is inserted into the contacts up to the insulation. 

As for conductor support, this is easily corrected by a small shot of hot glue around the wire and down into the Power Pole.  Of course the precludes using this connector again unless you want to do the work of removing the glue.  (I've never had a wire break from not being supported.)

The only "problem" might be very small conductors.  In this case I usually expose 2 or 3 times the normal conductor length used for the contact and fold it that many times before inserting it into the contact.  The hot glue trick gives support to the wire as it exits the connector.

I have an imitation pendulum clock that runs on a single 1.5v AA battery.  I've wired in a D cell using a long wire with the Anderson Power Pole connectors.  The D cell lasts almost 4 years and changing it out is a piece of cake!
Logged
K1CJS
Member

Posts: 6034




Ignore
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2013, 04:17:04 AM »

I have two sets of $10 crimpers that I got from the old Radio Shack (when they still had a decent selection of both parts and tools) that work fine for me.  It's true that I have to take a little more time and have to straighten the power pole terminal after I crimp it, but the connections made by those crimpers are as good as those made by any other crimpers.

Some people want everything done so they have a minimum of fuss in what they're doing, while others are happy just to get the job done even if they have to make a couple of 'adjustments' to that job after.  If you don't have the patience to do the 'fine' work, (adjustments) I guess you have to spend yourself into the poorhouse to have something that will do it for you.  YMMV.
Logged
K9YLI
Member

Posts: 863




Ignore
« Reply #8 on: March 09, 2013, 09:37:14 AM »

I convert all my  T connectors  to   motorola connectors.  polarized round connectors.
I get them with  #10 or #12 wire at ham fests..  and the   big reason  is 

in an emergency,  you can use any  auto store or wallmart  trailer wireing   conectors.
 power poles you need to  order  2 weeks  before  the emergency..
The same day  you test the  fire hydrants before the fire...

power poles are like  3 day  old  puppies...
Logged
W9GB
Member

Posts: 2622




Ignore
« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2013, 10:24:43 AM »

For the KLEIN TOOLS Crimper, LOOK for the Journeyman J1005 model.
Especially if you crimping a large numb of terminals!
http://www.service.kleintools.com/Tools/PRD/Category/Crimping/Cutting%20Tools%20-%20Non-Insulated/Insulated%20Terminals%20STRIPPERS-CRIMPERS-CRCTNINSIN/Product/J1005

Price is virtually same at larger tool stores and electrical supply houses.
The J1005 can crimp INSULATED and NON-INSULATED terminals.
The handle insulation/grip is SUPERIOR (typical of the Klein's Journeyman tool series).
====
PowerWerx OEM Radio connectors.
http://www.powerwerx.com/oem-connectors/

PowerWerx PowerPoles
Housings / Contacts
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/housings-contacts/
Sets
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/
« Last Edit: March 09, 2013, 10:29:32 AM by W9GB » Logged
KG4RUL
Member

Posts: 2722


WWW

Ignore
« Reply #10 on: March 09, 2013, 12:16:51 PM »

PowerPoles, properly crimped, are a standardized, reliable means of connecting your radio equipment.  I have used them to connect speakers and a controller for a screwdriver antenna.  As far as connectors pulling apart, this is a great solution: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/powerpole-retention-clips.html
Logged
AE5QB
Member

Posts: 269




Ignore
« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2013, 08:29:01 AM »

I use power poles on everything and I mean everything.  I like to tinker, and after 30 years of coming up time and after time with incompatible connectors I decided to convert everything. They are a little pricey, I will admit.  But bite the bullet and buy a good crimper and a good assortment of shells and all 3 sizes of pins and you will be fine.

To me the "being prepared" issue is none existent.  If things are really bad, ie a Katrina type disaster, do you really think you will be able to walk into an auto parts store?  In my mind it is not wise to count on being able to procure anything in an emergency.  With that thought in mind, you should have a good supply of whatever you plan to need and whatever you think you may need.

I have a bag of 200 PP shells and 100 each of the 15, 30, and 45 amp pins in my tool bag as well as the tri-crimping tool.  If I come across an emergency situation that I can't mate, I'll just cut off the other connector and put on power poles.  It takes about 2 minutes to put on a pair of power poles.

My only exception to this are the connectors on equipment.  It would be equally silly to take a chassis connector out of a radio or accessory to install power poles.  All of this equipment comes with an OEM connector and pig-tail so just attach PP to the other end and you are good to go.

I use PP on my rotator cables, speaker cables in my car, you name it.  They are simple to install, quick to install, reliable, and worth the cost.  They are so much better than molex connectors it isn't even funny.  I hate molex!

Crimp only and you will not have a failure unless the connection is seriously abused.
Logged
K1CJS
Member

Posts: 6034




Ignore
« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2013, 08:36:50 AM »

...As far as connectors pulling apart, this is a great solution: http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-accessories/powerpole-retention-clips.html

At a half a buck a pop, it may be great for keeping them together--but it's greater for the distributor!

I use small zip ties fed between the two power leads for powerpoles that don't get taken apart often, and a simple wrap of electrical tape for those that do but are prone to pull apart.  The trick is not to have too much tension on the wires connected, that way they're less likely to be pulled apart.
Logged
KV7W
Member

Posts: 136




Ignore
« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2013, 07:48:59 PM »

I've used Dean's connectors for years. They're small, but I've used them for wire sizes between 18 and 10 gauge. Gold plated with spring contacts that grip firm. Never had an issue with bad contacts. Tough enough you can use pliers on them if you want - time tested in the RC car hobby where they see lots of amps in harsh conditions. http://www.nitrohouse.com/Deans-MaleFemale-Ultra-Plug-Battery-Connector-Pair_p_4389.html You can find them at any hobby shop or on Amazon.

I've seen the Anderson power plugs at Hamfests and in use on field day; they're so huge and old school looking. The only benefit I have to crimping is to hold it while I solder. In an emergency I can twist, solder, and tape.



Logged
AC4RD
Member

Posts: 1235




Ignore
« Reply #14 on: April 06, 2013, 09:11:01 AM »

I started switching to Anderson power-poles about a year ago and I'm very pleased with them.  I got a crimping tool and set of dies from High Sierra Online and it works great, and it's also great for coax connections of all sorts.

One advantage to the powerpoles ...  last year I had to get a new car.  Installed my old 706 in the new car, and I put powerpoles in the 12v power line, thinking it might be convenient.   I did a full reset on the 706, and did not remember to set the auto power-off feature.  :-/  Found a dead battery in the new car one morning, and I couldn't find my car battery charger.   So I hauled a 20A power supply from my shack out to the car, connected it to the car battery via the powerpoles, and a couple of hours later the battery was charged.  :-)  THAT turned out to be darned convenient.  :-)
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!