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Author Topic: 2m/440 install in 2014 Camry  (Read 10113 times)
KD5PCK
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« on: July 21, 2014, 02:35:45 PM »

Just got a new Camry and plan to install a radio in it soon. Just curious if anyone else here has any experience with this particular vehicle. I'm thinking of running 12VDC to the trunk and mounting the radio there since it looks like there is no place in the passenger area to mount a radio. Just trying to mount the remote head is going to be a challenge. Any thoughts?
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K0BG
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« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2014, 03:06:44 PM »

You can always mount one underneath a front seat. But, if you do install the radio in the trunk, you'll have to extend the power cable. The stock unit already have about .5 vdc drop, so you should use much larger wire. I'd suggest #6, but #8 might be okay if the current draw is below 12 amps of so.

Whatever you do, don't attached the radio under the rear package shelf, as this is the hottest part of the trunk.

Oh! And drill a hole and mount the antenna correctly.
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KD5PCK
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« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2014, 06:34:19 PM »

I already have #6 wire to run for the power. No problem there. I have a custom bracket planned to mount not only the radio but some other items. Kinda like a console in the trunk.

As far as mounting the antenna, no holes. I've been told in the past that a "real ham" drills a hole to mount an antenna. Been there, done that. Had it professionally mounted. Then brought it back to the same professional for some other work and had it professionally ripped off the roof of the car. Long story short. There was more than a 3/4" hole left in the roof of my car. I'm not going through that again.

So... any thoughts as to where to mount the control head in this vehicle?
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K5LXP
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2014, 09:17:34 PM »

any thoughts as to where to mount the control head in this vehicle?

The way I start with any vehicle (after drilling the antenna hole) is with the control head in my hand and sitting in the driver seat, and testing various locations for visibility and ease of operation.   The best place may not be the easiest but if you take the time to do it right you end up with a good looking and easily operated setup.  I may end up having to modify some dash plastic, drill a few holes, use a different speaker or remote the microphone but when it's done it looks and works right.  Custom stereo installers do this kind of stuff all day long so there's no reason hams can't do it with their equipment.

Mark K5LXP
Albuquerque, NM
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W9CMG
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2014, 07:18:21 PM »

In my 2010 Camry, I use an adjustable stalk that bolts to the LF passenger seat mounting bolt. Holds the head in view and in reach but allows use of the cup holders, gear shift and compartment under the AM/FM radio. Also, no glove box or passenger issues.
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KD5PCK
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2014, 07:46:27 PM »

In my 2010 Camry, I use an adjustable stalk that bolts to the LF passenger seat mounting bolt. Holds the head in view and in reach but allows use of the cup holders, gear shift and compartment under the AM/FM radio. Also, no glove box or passenger issues.


You wouldn't happen to have a link for that stalk would you? I've been trying to find one like that. I know I've seen it somewhere before but just can't remember where.
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W8JX
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2014, 05:20:36 AM »

I already have #6 wire to run for the power. No problem there. I have a custom bracket planned to mount not only the radio but some other items. Kinda like a console in the trunk.

There is no need for 6 ga wire to power a dual band rig that uses 10 to 12 amps max, geez. 10 is more than enough and easier to route too. Nominal voltage in car when running is about 14 volts give or take. To suggest that a difference of 3 tenths of a volt difference is a deal killer on a silly. Most dual band rigs work well to 12v and less and and loss in output at low voltage will never be heard down the path. Most time you do not even need full power (which you should do with a rig mounted under a seat or cooling concerns) which means less voltage drop. Many use more wire than they need and more coax than they need.
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K0BG
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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2014, 06:53:06 AM »

The size of the wire is determined not only for a given current, but for voltage drop as well. Number 6 is about right for a run from the engine compartment back to the trunk.
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KK7GB
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2014, 08:20:14 AM »

DX Engineering and Universal Radio both show Lido mounts on their web sites.
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W8JX
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2014, 08:21:07 AM »

The size of the wire is determined not only for a given current, but for voltage drop as well. Number 6 is about right for a run from the engine compartment back to the trunk.

Once again, way overkill for a dual band mobile even in trunk. Kinda like lmr400 for HF a vanity thing. One could even run two 14's in parallel (for easier routing) as they equal a 10 or two 12's equal a 8.  I used to work on aircraft in flight test and installed many sub systems on test aircraft and if we had used K0BG's logic on wire size we could of added 100's (or even 1000's) of lbs to large aircraft. Commercial airplanes would weigh a lot more if they followed his rule.  

Moral is if it makes you feel good use heavy wire but it IS NOT needed and it will not make any difference in operation or down range.  
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W9CMG
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« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2014, 01:50:56 PM »

In my 2010 Camry, I use an adjustable stalk that bolts to the LF passenger seat mounting bolt. Holds the head in view and in reach but allows use of the cup holders, gear shift and compartment under the AM/FM radio. Also, no glove box or passenger issues.


You wouldn't happen to have a link for that stalk would you? I've been trying to find one like that. I know I've seen it somewhere before but just can't remember where.

http://www.lidomounts.com/catalog/item/1478816/4979410.htm
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WA5RCL
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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2014, 04:21:26 PM »

I have a 2009 Camry with a Kenwood TM-V7 installed.  The radio is in the trunk using the Kenwood extended cable kit.  I mounted the control head inside the compartment just ahead of the gear shift handle.  The 2009 model has a door that swings up, and the control head is behind the door.  (I call it my stealth radio!)  I just downloaded the 2014 Camry sales brochure, and it appears that the swing up door is still there for 2014.

I don't what radio you have, but it might not fit there without some "plastic surgery".  The TM-V7 control head is just four inches wide and fits with room to spare.  I am interested in the Kenwood TM-D710G, but that control head will not fit into that space.

If your radio doesn't fit as is, and you decide on some "plastic surgery", be careful where you cut.  In my Camry there are plastic gears on the sides of that compartment that control the up/down door.  You need to avoid harming those.  (You have to remove the compartment before you can see them.)
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K0BG
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« Reply #12 on: July 27, 2014, 07:40:38 AM »

Here are the issues:

If we're to follow the rule of thumb that the voltage drop should be less than .5 volts, at full load, then we need to look at the length of the cable (times two), the current draw, and then select the appropriate size of wire.

The standard cable shipped with every transceiver made these days, has a voltage drop of just under .5 volts, under full load, or peak load in the case of SSB.

If we don't follow convention (ROT) when extending the cabling, then when the engine is off, and the battery's resting voltage is ≈12.2, the transmitting could cause the transceiver to just quit (voltage <11.7 or so).

At lower than rated voltage, typically 13.8 vdc, the IMD of an average transceiver increases, sometimes drastically. The power output also drops. Both of these "features" are very evident in the extended testing of the Icom IC-7000 by the ARRL. The IC-7000 is not unique in these regards.

It is always best to overkill the first time around, even if running the cabling is more difficult and/or time consuming. The difference in cost is minimal.
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N7GCO
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« Reply #13 on: August 17, 2014, 01:39:59 PM »

I have a Icom 5100 A in a 2014 1/2 Camry Hybrid. 
I mounted the radio under the drivers seat with plenty of room to spare.
I mounted the radio head to the left of the steering wheel on the dash using a RAM Mount.
I mounted an external speaker on the floor just in front of the drivers seat near the center counsel.
I mounted the mike on the center counsel.
I used a Larsen LMO mount in the center of the truck (Yes I drilled a hole)

All works great.

Mel
N7GCO
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KD5PCK
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« Reply #14 on: August 17, 2014, 06:02:10 PM »

I have a Icom 5100 A in a 2014 1/2 Camry Hybrid. 
I mounted the radio under the drivers seat with plenty of room to spare.
I mounted the radio head to the left of the steering wheel on the dash using a RAM Mount.
I mounted an external speaker on the floor just in front of the drivers seat near the center counsel.
I mounted the mike on the center counsel.
I used a Larsen LMO mount in the center of the truck (Yes I drilled a hole)

All works great.

Mel
N7GCO
First of all, thanks to KK7GB and W9CMG for the info on the Lido mounts. That's the ones that I remember seeing a while back but couldn't remember the name. Sorry I didn't respond sooner but for some reason I didn't get the notifications that there were responses on this thread until today. I don't check the forums daily either.

Mel, thanks for the comments about your installation. I'm still running through ideas for my install. I am seriously considering bringing the car to a local radio shop to see if they would do the cable run and also drill and mount a Larsen antenna on the trunk. What antenna specifically do you have installed on your trunk? I am considering the Larsen NMO 2/70. How is it when you open and close the trunk? This is my first car, owned a truck for 18 years prior. I find myself opening the trunk fully almost every day.
As far as the radio that I plan to install, I would like to install the Kenwood D700 but that would require another cable run for the microphone since it doesn't plug into the control head. It's either that one or a Yaesu 8800.

Thanks again.
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