eHam

eHam Forums => Elmers => Topic started by: W9KDX on February 18, 2012, 08:34:41 AM



Title: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on February 18, 2012, 08:34:41 AM
I am having some difficulty getting the hang of soldering coax to PL-259s.  I am using LMR cable and the PL-259 inserts.  I think I have the center wire OK; when I have to redo a cable that part always looks good and I have no issues with melting anything.  I think the issue is the wire braid and getting it to solder to the PL-259 outer connection. 

I am using a 25 watt iron and I get the feeling I need more heat, or possibly I need to keep the iron on the joint a lot longer; when I do, it seems to help.  Also, when I screw in the spacer, it always seems to twist the braid.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I am not getting any shorts in the line, I check it with a tester.  I seem to just not get the braid to bond.



Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 18, 2012, 08:41:43 AM
Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I am not getting any shorts in the line, I check it with a tester.  I seem to just not get the braid to bond.

You need a lot more than 25 watts here. 60 to 75 watts with a tip with some thermal mass is pretty much minimum here. The more heat energy you have the quicker you can heat and flow solder while minimizing total time cable is exposed to heat. I use a 140/250 watt dual heat gun for this myself.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K8AXW on February 18, 2012, 08:56:35 AM
PLD:  I feel your pain!  JX is right on the money.... get a 140/250 watt soldering gun.  You can use a larger soldering IRON if you grind the tip down to fit in the groove where you see the soldering holes in the connector.  But a soldering gun tip fits perfect and is the way to go. It is also less awkward because it is shorter and easier to control. 

Putting the cable in a vise to hold it helps immeasurably. Rotate it as necessary to get to the holes.

Now, this embarrasses me to admit this but it took me 35 or 40 years to find out the best and fastest way to solder the braid (through the holes in the connector) is to first take a rattail file and file off the nickle plating in the groove with the soldering holes.

This exposes the brass which gives a much better heat transfer and lets the solder flow much faster.  This also results in less heat damage to the center insulator.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: KD8GEH on February 18, 2012, 09:19:56 AM
Welcome to coax connectors 101 HA!  I know some OM's that still have trouble with them. The trick is having a hot enough gun (or iron) good quality solder (kester) and lots of practice.

I use a weller soldering gun and a little jig I made to hold the cable. Trick is trimming the cable correct paying attention how you fold the braid back. I use a razor blade for the center conductor and trim the braid with sharp scissors. Dont get the center pin too hot or use cheap connectors.

Heres a link to get you started: http://www.hcarc.us/articles/soldering%20PL-259%20connectors.htm

Everyone has their own method that works for them. Some use torches, others pencil irons..I've even seen them use huge old plumbing irons HA!

Anyhow, its all about what works for you personally. Always check continuity before connecting the radio. I've been doing them for 35 years and rarely have an issue.

Enjoy and have fun!

73 DE Dave KD8GEH


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: WA4VBC on February 18, 2012, 09:42:11 AM
I have found that an large iron (100-200 watts) will work much better on PL-259s than an gun. 


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: AC5UP on February 18, 2012, 10:15:53 AM
...I use an 80 watt Weller iron intended for the stained glass trade that works well on PL-259's * if * I give it plenty of warm up time, pre-tin the braid and remember to pull the iron away as soon as the solder flows.

Allowing adequate warm up gives the tip "thermal mass" (for lack of a better description) so it has plenty of reserve heat to transfer to the connector shell. Pulling the iron off as soon as the solder flows minimizes the risk of dielectric meltdown. When the braid is bonded to the shell that's all you need. Nothing to be gained by cooking the coax beyond the point of permanent continuity.

I've also heard that buying non-acid rosin to "grease" the braid after it's tinned is a good idea. Any decent grade of traditional 60/40 solder should work well, but then I remind myself all the newer stuff is lead-free so look for a low melting point. As for soldering guns, I never had much luck with them on connectors. Less thermal mass in the tip with a smaller contact point (thermal path?)............ (?)


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 18, 2012, 10:18:45 AM
I have found that an large iron (100-200 watts) will work much better on PL-259s than an gun. 

I find gun much better. More focused and easily to vary heat too.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K7KBN on February 18, 2012, 10:30:41 AM
I use the Weller iron that AC5UP mentioned.  Lowe's carries them, I believe.  The tip of mine is a perfect fit for the PL-259.  The most important consideration, as others have said, is the thermal mass: the weight (mass) of the iron's tip as compared to the mass of the connector.  Your 25 watt iron gets every bit as hot as my 80 watt iron, or even my 250 watt iron.  But put that small tip on a relatively large, cold connector and the temperature drops instantly.  With greater mass, the temperature drop is much less and recovery is much faster.

As for filing out the nickel plating on a PL-259 - that isn't required if you use silver-plated connectors. Solder just LOVES hot silver.  Hot nickel, not so much.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: KL0S on February 18, 2012, 11:08:38 AM
Someone taught me a trick years ago that works well to solder coax braid to the connector....you've got to use silver connectors.

--First, put the PL-259 inner connector in a vise or holder and put a cold solder blob on top of each hole leading to the braid....it don't have to be pretty, just enough to hold the solder there.
--Prep your coax using whatever method you normally use and apply solder to the braid so that it covers the circumference at the point where you'll make the cut thru the inner foam.
--Use a sharp box cutter (or a tubing cutter works as well) to cut thru the foam down to the inner conductor; be careful not to nick the center conductor.
--Simply screw the connector down onto the coax (don't forget to put the outer barrel on first -- not that I've ever done that!) to the point that the top of the braid is against the top of the cylinder it's screwing into.
--Now, here's the magic....use your iron and heat the connector in the vicinity of the cold solder blobs....once you've transferred sufficient heat to the connector the braid will "suck" the cold solder blob down into it and make a solid connection - repeat for the other three holes.

The first time I saw this done I was amazed how easy it was and what a nice connection it made.  YMMV, but I've used this procedure ever since and never had a problem with a connector.

73 - Dino KL0S


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 18, 2012, 11:37:21 AM
Your 25 watt iron gets every bit as hot as my 80 watt iron, or even my 250 watt iron. 

Not hardly.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on February 18, 2012, 12:25:07 PM
Much thanks guys.  Glad to hear this is a widespread problem.  At least I don't feel so dumb.

I read a lot of problems with 80 watt and above evaporating the rosin so I ordered a 65 watt.  I needed a de-soldering iron anyway.  As soon as I get it, I'll give some of these tricks a try.  I never thought of prepping the braid on the insert first!  What a logical idea.

 


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 18, 2012, 04:39:10 PM
I read a lot of problems with 80 watt and above evaporating the rosin so I ordered a 65 watt.  

Even a 25 watt one will "de-tin" with time if left unattended and plugged in. You need to keep a wet sponge or rag to clean tip from time to time and re-tin it. I would have went with 80.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W6EM on February 18, 2012, 07:07:17 PM
....As for filing out the nickel plating on a PL-259 - that isn't required if you use silver-plated connectors. Solder just LOVES hot silver.  Hot nickel, not so much.

I guess, over the years, that the manufacturers have looked for less expensive ways to make PL-259s and SO-239s.  In my junk box, I have some old surplus ones as old as the '40s and '50s , and they are either dark gray (silver that's oxidized) appearance or have a silver colored tin covering.  The amount of brass in the PL-259s was a good deal more in the old days.  Although I haven't weighed them to compare new vs/ old, it's obvious to the feel.

Soldering the braid under the barrel has always been a challenge and has tradeoffs.  I use a 250W gun, but, as others have suggested, heat it first, then apply it to the barrel to quickly heat the barrel.  I usually do four quadrants, over each hole in the barrel.

Nickel plating doesn't wick solder well, and it will definitely take longer to do if you can get it to tin suitably.  For me, I won't buy a nickel plated connector or adaptors.  Either tin or silver plating, as I know both will flow solder quickly.

As to difficulties with solder tinning, you might try coating with non-contaminating flux from a flux pen or needle-bottle feed.  Kester 951 felt-tipped applicator pens are a couple of bucks and are very easy to use to wet the surface of the barrel with liquid flux.  You could coat the adapter and shield before putting it inside the barrel.

Good luck and happy tinning.  BTW, for those that think nickel takes solder easily, try tinning a piece of heater element wire.  Nickel/chrome alloy or nichrome as it's called.

73,

Lee


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: G3RZP on February 19, 2012, 02:43:49 AM
I find a paint stripping hot air gun the best. Remove the PVC or whatever jacket for 1.125 inches. With the (in my case 40 watt Wellrer), tin the braid. Cut braid to length using a pipe cutter. Cut inner insulation to length, make sure coupling sleeve is on cable right way round, fit PL259. Heat with hot air gun until solder applied through holes melts, then use Weller iron. The hot air gun is 850 watts, so it heats quickly.

Use good, silver plate, Teflon insulated 259s, none of the cheap rubbish.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W5DQ on February 19, 2012, 03:03:11 AM
I read a lot of problems with 80 watt and above evaporating the rosin so I ordered a 65 watt.  

Even a 25 watt one will "de-tin" with time if left unattended and plugged in. You need to keep a wet sponge or rag to clean tip from time to time and re-tin it. I would have went with 80.

I quit using wet sponges a while back and now use a wire bundle mass ('pillow' for a lack of a better term) that resembles a coarse, open weave, unsoaped Brillo pad. The pillow is gold in color and stuffs into a metal holder that sits on the desk next the iron. Just shove the tip in the pillow and move back and forth a couple of times, pull it out and the black oxidized crude it gone and the tip is shiny read to solder. I believe I first got these at either Digikey or Mouser when I ordered some parts a while back but have since seen them in a couple of electronics supply stores recently. The pillow seems to last forever at the rate I use it. If you solder all day long, everyday, it probably will wear out faster. They are not expensive, less than a $2-3 per if I remember correctly.

Gene W5DQ


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 19, 2012, 06:47:19 AM
I read a lot of problems with 80 watt and above evaporating the rosin so I ordered a 65 watt.  

Even a 25 watt one will "de-tin" with time if left unattended and plugged in. You need to keep a wet sponge or rag to clean tip from time to time and re-tin it. I would have went with 80.

I quit using wet sponges a while back and now use a wire bundle mass ('pillow' for a lack of a better term) that resembles a coarse, open weave, unsoaped Brillo pad. The pillow is gold in color and stuffs into a metal holder that sits on the desk next the iron. Just shove the tip in the pillow and move back and forth a couple of times, pull it out and the black oxidized crude it gone and the tip is shiny read to solder. I believe I first got these at either Digikey or Mouser when I ordered some parts a while back but have since seen them in a couple of electronics supply stores recently. The pillow seems to last forever at the rate I use it. If you solder all day long, everyday, it probably will wear out faster. They are not expensive, less than a $2-3 per if I remember correctly.

Gene W5DQ

I have seen and used the wire brush like approach but I still prefer the wet sponge as primary as it does cool tip some too. Having both handy would be nice too.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on February 19, 2012, 08:26:31 AM
I know this is a totally impossible question.  However, this is probably an area where opinion is as good as anything.

Do you guys thinks it is best to go back over the connectors I have made with the 25 watt and redo them or should I just leave them alone? 

I'll be replacing the outside wire in a few months anyway (winter is in the way) as I am raising my dipole another 15 feet, but I don't really know if these older connections are good.  Are connections either good or bad, or is there some measurable way to tell if they are only partly good.

Thanks


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: AC5UP on February 19, 2012, 09:25:15 AM
I know this is a totally impossible question.  However, this is probably an area where opinion is as good as anything.

Do you guys thinks it is best to go back over the connectors I have made with the 25 watt and redo them or should I just leave them alone?

Not to be a pill, but if you're asking the question there's a very good chance the answer is YES --- you should inspect and re-do as needed.

Why?

1) A 25 watt soldering iron doesn't make the cut on PL-259's. You were working with the wrong tool and the odds were against you.
2) Because you're still learning and 'back when' probably wouldn't notice a bad connector unless it was profoundly bad. At this stage of the game a second look might catch some ugliness that wasn't apparent the first time, especially if you now have visible oxidation from being weathered.
3) Any antenna will be more reliable if you can minimize the number of connectors involved... Especially the outdoor portion. Consider what the setup would look like if you knew what you were doing then see how close you can get. No antenna is perfect, but whatever you can do to make yours less imperfect is a good thing....  :P

BTW: Been my experience that it's rare for a connector to be 100% bad........ Usually they're some flavor of not good. An antenna analyzer is handy for testing coax but if you take your time to give it the Hairy Eyeball and Palmer Method a DMM will spot most common faults.

The Palmer Inspection Method involves pulling the coax through your hand(s) to feel (and look) for cuts, chafes and holes. An Ohmmeter can test for opens or shorts and be sure to wiggle / pull / bend the connectors while testing.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K7KBN on February 19, 2012, 09:25:38 AM
http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/solder/solderselect.htm?gclid=CLCP4c3Fqq4CFQN8hwodjAGrQg

Check these out, particularly the 80-watt irons (SP-80).  And note that even some of the little 6-watt irons get as "hot" as the 80-watt units.  It's a very small quantity of 900°F. heat, though.

I wouldn't bother "going over" the connections until you have the proper tool to do it with.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K1CJS on February 19, 2012, 10:05:18 AM
One thing you've got to remember if you do use a soldering gun--do NOT get the tips that are nothing more than a wire that has been flattened in the middle and formed into a tip.  Get the tips that have been cast--that have a larger amount of copper on the tip itself than the legs of the tip.  That is the best tip to get to attach the 259s to coax cables.

The flattened and bent over tips are OK for just simple joint soldering, but they just don't hold any useable amount of heat to do the 259s.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 19, 2012, 10:14:39 AM

Do you guys thinks it is best to go back over the connectors I have made with the 25 watt and redo them or should I just leave them alone? 


Resolder them because there is a good chance they are cold solder joints.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: KI4SDY on February 19, 2012, 10:18:53 AM
If your antennas are operating properly with the coax you installed, why take them down?  :)

Next time, if you are not skilled at soldering connectors, buy the coax with the connectors already installed. The slight increase in price it is worth it for the peace of mind and problems that you will avoid. Most of the posts on eHam.net about coax feedline problems are a result of bad connector installations by hams who assumed they were good at it.  ;)

If you are going to keep trying to install the connectors, get quality thermostat controlled soldering equipment with the proper wattage for the job and don't forget to apply flux to the contacts!  ;D


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on February 19, 2012, 01:41:05 PM
If your antennas are operating properly with the coax you installed, why take them down?  :)

Next time, if you are not skilled at soldering connectors, buy the coax with the connectors already installed. The slight increase in price it is worth it for the peace of mind and problems that you will avoid. Most of the posts on eHam.net about coax feedline problems are a result of bad connector installations by hams who assumed they were good at it.  ;)

If you are going to keep trying to install the connectors, get quality thermostat controlled soldering equipment with the proper wattage for the job and don't forget to apply flux to the contacts!  ;D

I was perfectly content to pay the additional for pre-wired, but none of my sources had wire that would handle 800 watts with 10 meters.  The additional flux suggestion is a good idea, one I missed. 

Thanks to all for the suggestions.  There is so little left I can build, I figured I would take the time and learn this one.

I have an antenna analyzer (MFJ 259B), but I haven't read anything that would help here.  Is there a particular term for the test that would help out?  Normal testing doesn't seem to indicate marginal soldering.

BTW, I will most likely redo things when I get the better iron.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W8JX on February 19, 2012, 02:34:30 PM
I was perfectly content to pay the additional for pre-wired, but none of my sources had wire that would handle 800 watts with 10 meters.  The additional flux suggestion is a good idea, one I missed. 


BTW 800 watts is not a problem for even RG8x on 10 meters.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on February 19, 2012, 06:27:16 PM
I was perfectly content to pay the additional for pre-wired, but none of my sources had wire that would handle 800 watts with 10 meters.  The additional flux suggestion is a good idea, one I missed.  


BTW 800 watts is not a problem for even RG8x on 10 meters.

I am not an expert, however every cable source I checked says 800 watts is double the capacity for RG-8X.

http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/cable/coaxperf.html

http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cgi-bin/calculate.pl

I'd be glad to find out where I am wrong.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K8AXW on February 19, 2012, 06:34:46 PM
I've been using the cheapass Amphenol PL-259 connectors with the bakelite insulator for over 50 years without one (1) failure at power levels up to 1400W.  They are nickel plated and a PIA to use as far as needing the nickel removed in the hole groove so they will take solder.

I have used silver plated connectors a few times and they are indeed very nice.  But I realized that I was spending big bucks for something that wasn't necessary.  Maybe for UHF, OK.  Maybe the silver connectors do a better job at UHF.  I don't know and can't comment.  But for HF I continue to use the Amphenol brand.  They've been around forever.

I think silver connectors falls into the same mind set catagory as antennas with 1.0:1 SWR and 1400W instead of 1200W.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on February 19, 2012, 07:15:00 PM
I've been using the cheapass Amphenol PL-259 connectors with the bakelite insulator for over 50 years without one (1) failure at power levels up to 1400W.  They are nickel plated and a PIA to use as far as needing the nickel removed in the hole groove so they will take solder.

I have used silver plated connectors a few times and they are indeed very nice.  But I realized that I was spending big bucks for something that wasn't necessary.  Maybe for UHF, OK.  Maybe the silver connectors do a better job at UHF.  I don't know and can't comment.  But for HF I continue to use the Amphenol brand.  They've been around forever.

I think silver connectors falls into the same mind set catagory as antennas with 1.0:1 SWR and 1400W instead of 1200W.

Maybe you have something else, but all the Amphenol PL-259s I have seen advertised are "silver plated".


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: G3RZP on February 20, 2012, 03:31:46 AM
Teflon insulated silver plated PL259s (claimed to be USA made) are available cheaply at Dayton - like 10 for $12 last year. The original Amphenol phenolic insulated connectors were silver plated: in the early 1970s, Amphenol went to something called 'Astroplate' for cheapness: it doesn't solder so well. Most of the CB ones appear to be nickel plated, and that certainly doesn't solder well. The advantage of the silver plate is not frequency related, it's the increase in the ease of soldering the connector well.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K8AXW on February 20, 2012, 07:51:53 AM
"Astroplate", nickel plate..... I have no idea.  I only know they're difficult to solder without removing the plating in the braid groove.

Never used silver plated Amphenols before the 70s either.  I'll admit up front that my memory is failing.... it seems to me that silver plating didn't become readily available until the late 80s or early 90s.  I have never seen silver plated PL-259s available at 10 for $12.00.  That's what I expect to pay for the "Astroplated/nickel plated" Amphenols.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: G3RZP on February 21, 2012, 12:26:53 AM
All the original PL259/SO239 series were silver plated, right back to 1943 or earlier. Also the T pieces. Astroplate was pretty rotten to solder to, and as AXW says, a nickel plated one needs a lot of work with a file before it will be solderable. The absolute disaster I saw was a cheap far eastern one which was something like nickel plate on an aluminium body!

The silver plate/teflon ones at Dayton had gone up last year. In 2010, they were 12 for $10. Where they go to, I do not know. I bring home 10 or a dozen, put them in the connectors drawer, and each year, come Dayton time, there's only one or two in there and yet I swear I haven't used any during the year. I guess we've all heard of the sock fairy who ensures that an even number of socks goes into the wash and an odd number come out: I seem to have a PL259 fairy!


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: N1OD on February 21, 2012, 04:21:01 AM
KD0PLD, check your private messages.

Paul


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K8AXW on February 21, 2012, 08:10:56 AM
RZP:  I think perhaps you're in the same boat as I am.  My pegboard looks like a Radio Shack store but when I need a part I have to either order it or go back to Radio Shack because I can't find it.

A similar situation occurred in the power plant where I worked.  They used to bring in skids full of valve wrenches and they would disappear into every nook and cranny in the place.  Each person wanted one hidden away for easy access when he had a problem with a valve.

The problem was we could never find one when we needed it!

I always said, if we suffered an earthquake, valve wrenches would rain down through the 12 floors!


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: G3RZP on February 22, 2012, 02:02:48 AM
I just blame my cats for it all. After all, they blame me for the weather and everything else. And I'm sure they drink the whiskey!


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: N4RCK on March 12, 2012, 04:30:38 PM
 The  best  method  to use on  any  pl259  is  carbon resistance.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: VK4TJF on March 13, 2012, 10:51:42 AM
i like using RG-213 for all except mobile situations, when i first tried to solder pl 259 plugs it was a pain, a real job
that is until i found some quality pl-259 connectors and not some junk you find at the local electronics store
get your connectors from dx enginnering as they have high quality silver and tephlon connectors, very easy to solder


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: KC2MMI on March 13, 2012, 03:53:18 PM
I would also suggest buying a tube of "Solder-It" or similar soldering paste instead of conventional solder. It has an expiration date, lasts about 12-18 months before turning solid in the tube so check the date when you buy it.

If you apply solder paste to the coax shield BEFORE you insert it into the connector, when you heat up the connector (you'll still need adequate heat) the paste is already inside the whole connector/shield contact area. As it liquifies you'll see water-white flux running out.

Why try to stuff solder in those little holes, when you can use paste and ensure it has 100% solder coverage in between the coax cable and the connector? Other than the cost of the paste, which is less than a few botched jobs, and a good investment in reliability. Minimal heat, minimal insulator damage.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on March 24, 2012, 05:58:01 PM
Well, problem solved.  Digging around Youtube with some of the links here, I found one where he solders the shield to the reducer before screwing it into the connector.  Then he skips the soldering through the holes.  It is a tight fit and pliers are needed to finish the assembly, but it works perfectly and makes any disassembly easier.  Not only does it work, but you can see directly if you are overheating the foam.  I used a 60 watt iron and every connector I made today was good first time.

Thanks all.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: N4CR on March 24, 2012, 07:04:32 PM
Well, problem solved.  Digging around Youtube with some of the links here, I found one where he solders the shield to the reducer before screwing it into the connector.  Then he skips the soldering through the holes.  It is a tight fit and pliers are needed to finish the assembly, but it works perfectly and makes any disassembly easier.  Not only does it work, but you can see directly if you are overheating the foam.  I used a 60 watt iron and every connector I made today was good first time.

Thanks all.

And you didn't link the video for us? Please do. I've been making shack jumpers like this for a few years now but I'd like to see the video for future reference.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on March 25, 2012, 06:14:41 AM
Well, problem solved.  Digging around Youtube with some of the links here, I found one where he solders the shield to the reducer before screwing it into the connector.  Then he skips the soldering through the holes.  It is a tight fit and pliers are needed to finish the assembly, but it works perfectly and makes any disassembly easier.  Not only does it work, but you can see directly if you are overheating the foam.  I used a 60 watt iron and every connector I made today was good first time.

Thanks all.

And you didn't link the video for us? Please do. I've been making shack jumpers like this for a few years now but I'd like to see the video for future reference.

I'll do my best.  I saw it at work last week and wasn't able to save.  I should be able to re-trace my steps and get there again.  I think it was called, "Soldering a PL-259".  There are a few, I think it was a 2 part.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on March 28, 2012, 03:00:25 PM
Here's the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agkP9YMR3Kc&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agkP9YMR3Kc&feature=related)


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K4RVN on March 28, 2012, 05:57:39 PM
I just ordered a weller 80 watt iron from Amazon.com. It was 20.95 plus 2.99 shipping. I'll be using the method in the you tube demo next time. Thanks for posting.

Frank


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: W9KDX on March 29, 2012, 11:28:25 AM
With the connectors I had, it was no where near as easy to screw the parts together.  I needed to use two sets of pliers, but no soldering through the holes was necessary, and the connection was very solid compared to anything I have done through the holes.


Title: RE: Soldering Help
Post by: K4RVN on March 30, 2012, 07:52:39 PM
Sam, I would also expect to run into that with my soldering, but mine usually work OK.

Frank