Joe -

I discovered the exhaust pipe ground on my 2003 1/2 ton silverado, about 8 years ago or so. It made a huge difference in the noise level. In fact, one year when I was on my trip home from my place in Canada the noise level on the bands started getting worse and worse. When we stopped for the night I got under the truck and discovered that the strap had broke all the way off. I didn't have the materials with me to fix it that night, so I just put up with it until I got home. The subsequent vehicles I have had and installed HF in I have grounded the exhaust pipe as part of it - just in one location towards the rear of the truck.

My current truck is a 2011 CCLB F350 with the 6.7L powerstroke engine. I haven't even thought of measuring the exhaust pipe length, let alone more than one ground. In your experience - does it really make that huge of a difference? I understand the resonating properties - but that is why I grounded the one time to start with. I am really curious after your post if there is much merit to more than one ground. By using the one ground it shorts the "antenna" and, unless I am off my rocker, destroys the radiating ability. Wouldn't it be akin to shorting a dipole by jumping the legs together in the middle or towards the ends?

Does anyone know where I can find a complete remote kit for an IC-207H? I bought the radio new in 2002 and never remoted the face plate. I have a second vehicle now and want to install this rig with a remote face plate. It seems all I can find is an 11.5' extension cable for the face plate. I have the mic side covered well enough if that is the route I have to go. I would like to find the face plate bracket also, so a complete kit would be ideal.

Any ideas?

John,

Thanks for the info but I think I'll stick with what I have.

I did some work on the set up this evening (I did a lot of work on a lot of things and everything I worked on went right and came out great, funny how that works sometimes). What I did is I went back in to the audio filters in my audio program. The first problem was there is a 12,200hz buzz originating from my computer/sound card/mic some how. So I notched that out. Then there was still the lower frequency hum that was in there yesterday. So I set up a low pass filter to cut that out. It actually tins the audio creating a similar affect as my Heil HC-4 mic element. I will have to play with it when I get set up for the contest and see what works best. The mic element in my new headset is an HC-6 (Heil Proset Elite) so maybe I can try and match the response. As long as the set up calls CQ and I can make good contacts out of it I'll be more than happy enough - this is a new aspect of Ham radio. I'll have to set it up for Field Day this year too. 

Those webinars are good for someone that is using the logging features of the program, but there wasn't anything in there regarding using just the voice keyer part. I'm not looking for a computerized contesting solution - all I want is something to call CQ on SSB while I am eating or tending to something else (another rig, stretching my legs) in un-crowded band conditions. I'll save my voice for working the contacts, which I don't want my computer doing by pushing buttons. If you don't hear anything on the bands you can't work anyone or be worked if there isn't a signal for someone to hear. The goal is to have something going over the radio without me talking in to the mic every second.

One button to call CQ, and set a repeat interval, is all I need.

I  downloaded the N1MM software this evening and dug out my old RigBlaster. I didn't have a program that would record wav files so I found one online.

The audio file sounds fine when I play it back on the computer, but running it through the N1MM software and in to the rig there is a terrible hum on the signal. I put ferrite toroids on the audio line from the computer to the RigBlaster but that didn't do any good. The rig is a Kenwood TS-2000 and I was monitoring my transmit signal on the rig itself, not with a second receiver (the same way you can monitor a mic or RTTY/Data signal going in to the rig). I was putting out very little power on 2m (hardly anything, but that's another story - 5w setting has no RF, 10w+ works fine) Any ideas?

I think once I get the bugs worked out this will do what I am after. I just have to get used to the program and the recording process.

I will be taking off in a week for EN39 again. My target band is 6 meters, as always. Look for me between 50.130 and 50.225, depending on band conditions. I will have 2m and 70cm just in case too, a lot of extra work for getting all 3 beams up but for the contest I'll go ahead and do it. If 2m opens up I'll be right around 144.200-220 most likely. 432 - I've never had a QSO on that band from there, so I won't hold my breath, but 432.100 would be likely (probably a 2m QSO going up to 432 if it happens at all).

My plan is to run through the contest and a little after.

Thanks for the tip NT0A. I ended up ordering the Ultimate Andy-Crimper kit from Quicksilver also. http://qsradio.com/Powerpoles.htm.

There were a few other goodies I got too, a few packs of BNC connectors for RG-174 among others. I still don't have one of the dies I am looking for, but I'll have to cross that bridge later. The important ones are the powerpoles and coax.

Have you ever done RG-174 connectors and powerpoles with it? Hows it work?

Has anyone used the Powerwerx crimp tool/die set? Do any of you know if the dies will work with other sets, and if not why? They say on the site that the dies won't work with any other tool. I'd be curious if someone has tried it though.

http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/interchangeable-accessory-die-sets-tricrimp-powerpole-crimping-tool.html#desc

I think I have a solution to my quest. I have a ratcheting crimper I got at Harbor Freight a few months back - $9. It has replaceable dies. So I went back to the tool rack at work and swapped the dies around and, wouldn't you know, they're all the same size!

Now I've got a handle set I can use - just have to find some dies.

Are there any decent crimp tools for wire and coax that don't cost $500?

I am looking for something that does insulated as well as non-insulated wire connectors (22-10awg), RG-174, RG-58, RG-8x, and RG-8. I'd prefer the interchangeable dies/single crimper, but if I can get dedicated crimpers without breaking the bank that would be OK too.

Ideas?

Tessco has a nice set but I am curious if there are any other options floating around that I haven't come across yet. I can find all kinds of crimpers for wire terminals, but the hard part is finding coax dies that work with them.

Steve, KC8QVO

I am considering getting a voice keyer. I want to stay away from MFJ. What have some of you used?

Another idea is to use a RigBlaster and computer. This might be the more versatile method as I can use the set up for digital modes too. Does anyone have any experience with the voice recording/playback in a contest type environment?

Steve, KC8QVO

6 is one of my favorite bands. I've worked Eskip, Tropo, Aurora, and Meteor Scatter. Aurora and Meteor Scatter are the coolest propagation modes of the ones I've worked. Meteor Scatter takes the right conditions and the right scheduling, in most cases, to get through, though there are possibilities to work stations on a calling frequency, of sorts. Aurora is rare (in my book) - I've only worked it once. I am hoping this summer I can work some more Aurora. We'll see.

I have 3 radios that run 6 meters. My first one was a Ranger RCI-5054DX (10w version). I would not recommend it. It is a harder radio to operate, and is only marginal in quality. It will make contacts though. My main VHF radio for years has been my trusty Kenwood TS-2000. I bought it for all modes on VHF and to that point it works well. I also have a Yaesu FT-857D. This radio's home is in my truck for mobile operation, but it is also my go-to portable radio. It works as well as the Kenwood TS-2000 on 6 meters. The only differing factor between the two is I run a Heil Goldline GM-4 mic on the HC-4 element and with the compressor running on the Kenwood it makes a heck of a punch for 100 watts.

At home I run a ground plane antenna in the attic for 6m (thats right - vertically polarized inside). When I am at my place in Canada (look me up on QRZ for more info) I run a 5 element beam. The beam does make a big difference, but that having been said when the band opens up my ground plane in the attic nets me quite a few contacts. A dipole also will work. I set up a dipole as my "get-on-the-air-quick" antenna when I get to my place in Canada. That way while I am putting the rest of the station together I have something to work with. Lots of times I don't get to the main set up until the day after I get there, so the dipole gets me going - and is also the very last thing I pack up at the end (and I hate that part...).

Get on 6 meters - SSB, not FM - and see what its all about! Maybe even brush up on your CW skills and work some grids!

Steve, KC8QVO

I will be running the June ARRL VHF Contest (June 9-10) this year from EN39. I have operated there for several years, but it isn't too often I get to run the contest from up there. It should be a lot of fun again!

I am going to be up there for several days so if you don't catch me on during the contest there will be other opportunities.

6m is my target band. I am contemplating throwing up a beam on 2m also, but I don't know yet. I have a beam for 432 as well but I am not going to take it with me - its not worth the extra effort in set up.

Please pass along the information.

Steve, KC8QVO

I am a backpacker and I have found the most effective antenna so far for me is a jumper dipole. I didn't read through all the replies, so it may have already been mentioned or perhaps by another name.

My design evolved from 26 gauge copper speaker wire to 26 gauge "silky" wire, stranded copper clad steel with a black teflon-like jacket. It covers 6 through 40 meters in a full size dipole. The way it works is there are spade connectors at each segment. I start with 6 meters, tune to low SWR, then add a jumper on for the next consecutively lower frequency band, all the way to 40 meters.

This antenna is light, compact, and easy to string up. Most of my backpacking trips are around trees so its easy to set it up as an inverted V.

I also have a KX3 on order, I put my order in late on day 2 so I am still probably a few weeks out, at least. I can't wait!!! When the 2m module comes out I'll get that too, so far I have everything coming except the roofing filter and mic. 

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