I would take pictures of your gear and on the back of the prints, mark model # and serial #. Maybe even add when and where purchased and store this info in a secure place till you need it.

I found your comment about turning on by itself with the power supply interesting. Have you checked the radios internal power supplies to make sure they are correct and regulating?

"Paypal does not force you to use its services after all.  As long as you as the seller deal honestly with your buyers, you are not going to have to worry about "holds" on your account.  You are obviously so biased against Paypal you phrase it as "you lose that money" which is not true and should give everyone a view into your motivations.

Gene"

Gene, you just made our case with your remark "As long as you as the seller deal honestly with your buyers". Not all sellers (or buyers) are honest so how is PP such great a way to do transactions. Yes, I'm Biased. I've heard and seen too many horror stories about PP. I even quit using ebay because everyone seems to want paypal and I know ebay pushes (and I believe owns) PP. Sellers are only hurting themselves by limiting the forms of payment they except.

Believe what you want but don't come crying to me when someone steals your identity and you find out that you just bought a $400,000 home in Florida. I've seen it happen all too often while working at the courthouse.

Sorry paypal sellers but I will not get involved with on-line transactions. After 35 years of working with computers, I still don't trust the security nor do I trust paypal or a seller I don't know. Offer me the option of a PMO and we can talk turkey and get to know one another but forget the paypal. The paypal server may be secure but what about my computer or all of the servers between my computer and the paypal server (all weak links in the system). But if your going to insist on only accepting paypal, it also makes me wonder why your in such a huge hurry to unload your item and get my money. It could turn out to be a piece of junk for all I know. I think we should have a seller rating system sort of like the one ebay has.

When it comes to the 706 or the 7000 I can not agree. I own a 7000 and really like it but the way it is manufactured is not top notch. The audio and data jacks are surface mount and too delicate for rough handling. I have already had to repair three jacks (Speaker out and video out on the back and speaker out on the control head. They break loose from the circuit board rendering them useless and a pain to repair without a fine tipped soldering iron, time and patience.
Sorry for the negative input.

Win (KB5ZSM)
Tip Top TV

My guess would be 'No', but You could always send an email to LDG and get their opinion.

http://www.ldgelectronics.com/c/8/contact-us

Hope this helps.

Win (KB5ZSM)

I would tend to doubt that you hurt it as long as it wasn't connected for a long time. The input voltage is fed through a voltage regulator before it is fed to the amplifier and this regulator (although simple in design) should have been able to handle that for a few minutes at least. Only Way to find out for sure is to correct the wiring and try it again (unless you have test equipment to test it out of circuit).

Cross the fingers,
Win (KB5ZSM)

Two things I would check are that the master oscillators are accurate and that your RIT is off on both radios.

To K8AXW -- Don't laugh but I have seen cheap CAT5 that doesn't have shielding, Just 4 pairs of twisted wires. That was the bases of my reply. I hadn't even considered what you had said about long long stretches but your also correct about losses. You can use the shielded type with no problems but I have also had great easy success using regular Microphone cable. I have replaced many missing RJ45s on our county's radios that have the coiled mic. cables.

Yes, length can be a problem. The wire is not properly shielded and if you have any RF in the shack, you will have a feedback problem. It isn't hard to wire a regular mic. cable to the RJ45. Just twist your shield wire and tin it. Then arrange your wires in order and trim them evenly. Check your fit in to the connector and when satisfied, crimp. Sometimes when I want that little extra strength, I will put a little super glue on the area where the cable enters the connector (but not so much that it runs down to the connections. I just made a replacement cable for my IC-7000 that needs two RJ45s.

Win (KB5ZSM)
Tip Top TV

If I understand you right, you still have the rectifier in circuit. Do you have an Ohm Meter? Why hasn't anyone suggested using an Ohm meter? Disconnect one of the A.C. leads from the transformer to the rectifier and then check the rectifier for shorts (I assume the red and black lead on the rectifier are still disconnected). The bridge rectifier is just four diodes in one package with four leads (+,-,AC,AC). No pair of leads may show a short circuit. Every pair of leads you test should show a diode action where the leads in one direction will show infinity and in the other direction a much lower Resistance (at least a ten-to-one ratio if not a lot more). Any shorts and you found your culprit.
I also like the idea of checking the MOV that was mentioned earlier. That was the disk looking thing on the primary side of the transformer that you mentioned also.
If the pass transistors were shorted, they would cause your output voltage to go way up causing the crowbar circuit to engage but since you disconnected that part of the circuit, you already eliminated that as a probable cause.
Good luck!

Win (KB5ZSM)
Tip Top TV

I would start by finding or creating wiring diagrams of each microphone. There are web sites out there with lots of microphone pin-outs. If that doesn't work, open them up and create your own wiring diagram. Once you do that, I'll bet the reason will be staring you right in the face. Those same diagrams may help in future trouble shooting also. http://www.mods.dk/ would be a good place to start. you could download your radio service manuals here and they will show the microphone connections.
Be carefull plugging microphones in radios that weren't made for them as you can do serious damage to both radio and microphone (e.g. shorting the 8 volt bias to ground and burning out the 8 volt regulator).

A 1 microfarad cap on the audio line should work. Make sure to have the plus side of the cap to the microphone cable and use a tantalum type rated for at least 16 volts. it may even fit inside the mic plug.
My main concern is if you will have enough audio from the mic to drive the radio. You may need a preamp (or as one person said, an equalizer).

One more thought, an amplified external speaker might just do the trick and they're cheap enough. Try an old amplified computer speaker. As long as you don't get RF feedback then all is good.

Win