Could you just pick up some shielded Cat6 with RJ45 ends from ebay or something, or is the Icom cable proprietary?   I wonder if the shielding would solve the RFI problem.

I am trying to figure out something similar - I need a mic extension for a future TMD710A purchase, and if this were a viable solution, it would help out a lot.  It seems like in my case a shielded Cat6 would work, but I am hesitant to move on anything until I get confirmation.

Hey all,

So I am in the process of trying to decide between the TMV71A and the TMD710A...   I am stuck between really liking the lood of the 710, but do not anticipate ever using APRS, etc...   so I am basically looking at $200 for a nicer looking display, but I digress...

So, I am replacing an old TMV-7A, and I already have the separation kit installed with the head on my dash.  My questions surround the cables used for extension...

If I buy the TMV71A and the DFK-3D (head only extension kit), wuold I be able to use the same mic extension cable already installed (I don't know if the cable changed)?  Or, shoulud I just bite the bullet and pick up the PG5-F kit that has the mic kit, etc?

My thought is that if I buy the radio at $380 and the PG5-F kit for $70, that $450 total puts me just about $100 from the 710 anyway.

Now if I just buy the 710,  It already ships with a head separation kit, and so if the old TMV7A mic extension would work, it would appear that I would be all set to go.

Does this cable situation sound right?    If so, like I said, I would be essentially at $100 difference between the two.  With the nicer display and the features that I don't anticipate using (but who knows about the future?), it seems like it would be worth putting a little extra scratch aside to get the 710 and get myself back on the air.

(Heck, after my last queries, I drilled my roof and have the  NMO Larsen ready to go after all...   )

The TMV7A will then become a base until it finishes dying...

Thanks for the input help!

Bill

Hi all --

I have an old FT-51R that I bought way back when, and I was wondering if it was worth putting a few dollars into getting it back up and running?

I am getting back into the hobby after some time off, and am debating putting money into the old HT or buying a new one...

FT-51R:
I have the Car Charger, the cradle charger, and extra antenna.  Both of the battery packs I have were sitting around for a few years and are fried.   So it looks like I would need a couple of replacement FNB-38 NiCad batteries, the remote mic, and software (if it is still available).  This looks to be about $200 when all is said and done.  I imagine if I upgrade to NiMh batteries, I would have to get a new charger and car charger so that would be a few more bucks?

I just hesitate to spend $200+ on a radio that hasn't been in production for quite some time.  I imagine that is more than the radio itself would sell for these days, so it doesn't make sense if that is the case... or am I missing something?

The other option is to spend the $650ish for a VX-8DR with all the accessories and the RT systems software.

Which do you guys think is the better option?  Is it worth putting money into an old FT-51R?

Thanks for all the help!

Bill

OKay, well I am sitting here at work and just jumped in with both feet... ordered the antenna and an NMO mount from HRO...

Thanks for entertaining all of my ramblings...  I have had my license for a while, and am finally starting to get into it.

I'll have to let you know how it come out...   

Thanks!  The PDF from Larsen had a good chart showing losses at different antenna positions with different mounts.  They give center of the roof 0.0, with the fender mount at around -2.8 (just from memory, not looking at it right now).  A mag mount on a back corner of the roof was -0.2...  I would assume that an NMO in the same rear position but towards the center would at least do that well?  That being said, I will go as far forward as I reasonably can, and in any case still should be able to do better than the other two options I had originally posted...   Does that gel with conventional logic?

Then I get to try my hand at soldering the PL259 to the other end after I get it routed under the passenger seat...   Hopefully I can do that on the first or second try...  LOL!

I know it is a 10-year old car and all, but I still talk to her about these kinds of things.  It doesn't matter to me who paid for what, I look at it as me respecting her enough to talk to her about it.  (But we both paid for the car and both pay the insurance on it as we do with our second car).  And if I started getting into a whover paid for it gets to make the decisions debate with her, I would surely lose...   I am a teacher, and she is an RN...    She wins.   

I have looked at and learned a lot from the website...   In fact, your post (along with most of the others) made me take a second look at the situation.

It seems like I could pull the rear dome light (which is in the center at the very back of the car, nearly the rear edge of the roof), and use that as a possible mounting point for an NMO...   it would be within about 4-6 inches of the back of the car, but I imagine it would still be a lot better than the other options, especially referring to the Larsen guide linked in a previous post.

I watched a You Tube video on how to do it, and I think I can handle it... 

I did read that there are a lot of lower-quality NMOs out there - I want a good quality NMO and also need the NMO hole saw drill bit.  Where do you guys recommend I go online for these?


Aside from those two things, I think I am set - it doesn't look like there is anything else necessary to get the install done.  Drill the hole and screw the mount down.  Am I missing something or is it really that easy?   

LOL... that is usually my policy, but I figured I would talk to her about it so she wouldn't be concerned with me hanging around that car with power tools...   

Well, it was part of the negotiation process with my wife in getting the install done...   

The fender mount seems to be a better performing spot (?), and it seems like an easy enough job...   Once I get this decision firmed out, I will be able to order my antenna, the other parts, and get things rolling! 

I have been reading through the archives, and konw that I am basically making the best of what is not an ideal mounting situation, but it is one of those cases where I just have to make the best of it.

I am going to install an old TMV-7a into my 2001 Xterra, and am going to ask antenna location advice...  more accurately, which would be the best place.  I am going to buy a Larsen MNO2/70BK based upon my reading here.

Here are my mounting possibilities (can't do a roof NMO):

1.  roof rack bracket for the luggage rack.

2.  one of the L-Bracket type mounts to place antenna on hood lip passenger side - (opposite of the AM/FM antenna)



Which of these would be the best choice as far as the best performance? 

Also, the Larsen NMO cable kits that would attach to the hood mount seem to have RG58 coax - is that small enought to rout throught the hood gap and into the engine compartment, or is there a thinner coax that would do the trich withour being lossy?

Thanks for the help and advice!

Bill
KF6CNP

Hi all...

I am looking for a DFK-3C extension kit for my very old Kenwood TMV-7A...  This seems like it may be a wild goose chase, but I figured I would give it a try...   

Actually, the only part I really need is the cable that runs from the transceiver to the back of the mounting bracket for the face plate.  I still have the mic extension cable, power harness, and the mounting brackets.

I don't know if it is possible to homebrew a solution, but if nothing pans out, I guess I could open the radio and take a look at the connections and see if I am able to give it a shot...   

Thanks for any advice/information/suggestions/etc!

73,
Bill

(Heck, if this doesn't pan out, I may just have to buy a new mobile rig...   LOL!)