Please check out the LP-100A wattmeter by N8LP (http://www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html).  I've had mine for years and sold my Bird 43 and all the slugs shortly after getting the LP-100. 

73, K8AC

Use good panadaptor software that has a trace or peak memory function.  Signals received at your location since the panadaptor was started will be visible on the display.  Even signals that appear in quick bursts on 6M will be visible.  One product that works well is the  SDR-IQ receiver with SpectraVue software.  There are others depending upon whether or not your transceiver or receiver has an IF output.

73, K8AC

I guess there's never been anything on the test about ethics and the importance of adherence to regulations.  Personally, I feel that if a fellow amateur knowingly engages in an activity that is contrary to the rules, his character is lacking and I would not trust him to do the right thing in any dealings with him.  If he makes modifications to make a piece of gear operate on a band where that equipment would not be legal, that piece of gear will eventually be used and he becomes a party to the violation.  Of course, he will argue that since the FCC doesn't enforce the rules then they must not be serious rules. 

So, my point: if you make or intend to make such modifications, don't expect to be treated warmly by those whose assistance you seek.  In the long run, amateur radio can not benefit from simply ignoring such activity. 

73, Floyd - K8AC

My comment regarding the pulse device and the TX REQ jack assumed that the pulse device was grounding and ungrounding the output at the pulse rate.  If the pulse device instead generates a pulsed audio tone, then the TX REQ jack is NOT the one to use.

73, K8AC

I suspect that no one knows what a "DX 5000" is.  I'll assume you're talking about an FTDX-5000 transceiver.  Regarding the TX REQ jack: There's no explanation in the manual as to whether that works only in CW mode, or also SSB mode.  Ground the pin and see what happens in SSB mode.  I see no reason why you couldn't use a pulse tuner there.  According to the manual, the E. ALC  switch (no explanation at all for what the "E" might refer to) controls the ALC response time and for some reason should be set to 2 with the VL-2000 linear.  No reference to using the switch with any other type of linear.  I had an FTDX-5000 here for a short time and used the ALC connection to my Alpha 86 amp.  Worked fine without using the E. ALC switch.  The transceiver works with ALC voltages between 0 and -4 VDC.   Depending on the linear you intend to use, you may want to connect the ALC line.  Some linears include protection for those instances where you accidentally apply 200W input, others don't. 

The best place for answers on the FTDX-5000 is probably one of the two Yahoo groups dedicated to that transceiver. 

73, Floyd - K8AC

If you must consider the 5000, don't waste your money on the companion scope unit.  It's beyond any doubt the worst I've ever seen, and I've owned them all.

The Anderson power pole connectors have become the standard power connector at least in the ham world.  The only downside that I've seen after years of using them in the shack is that they can more easily be pulled apart than some of the alternatives.  On the other hand, they make excellent low resistance contact and are available in a variety of current ratings to match the load requirements.  I have power supplies here that have bolt terminal connections and I've assembled a pigtail for each one with an Anderson connector on the end.  If I were you, I'd stick with the Power Poles as used in the Rig Runner and make up a couple of pig tails that would accommodate whatever terminals you think you might run into on power supplies.  With the MFJ and other units that use banana plugs, there's no protection against inserting the plugs into the wrong terminals and thus reversing the polarity - a potentially expensive mistake. 

Their advice is probably based on the fact that the resistance of the light bulb will change as it heats up.  So, the pi net tuning would change accordingly.  At this point, you're objective is to find out if you have output or not.  The bulb will tell you that.  If the bulb presented a very high impedance as a random length antenna (without tuner) might, then there would be a possibility of arcing PA components, but that's just not the case here. 

We tend to make things a bit complicated these days.  Without a wattmeter, here's a way you can tell something about your output power.  Connect a piece of coax to a regular 100W incandescent light bulb.  You'll be able to solder to the tip terminal, but you'll have to clamp the coax braid to the threaded portion of the bulb base.  The Kenwood can be tuned to match the impedance of the light bulb - it isn't 50 ohms, but that won't make any difference in this case.  With the transceiver transmitting in CW mode, you should be able to tune the final so that the light bulb is quite bright.  If the bulb glows bright, your output is fine.  After you verify output on CW, then move on to SSB and see if you have output there when you speak into the mic.  If not, check mic, mic cable connections, mic gain setting, etc.  On SSB, you should see no output to the bulb unless you're speaking.

One thing to beware of - the light bulb will radiate a surprising amount of signal, even on 40 meters.  It is NOT a dummy load!

73, Floyd - K8AC

On the trim pots, I usually just give them a tiny blast of a cleaner and then work them back and forth many times.  Sorry I can't remember any more details of the SM-220 operation.  I guess it's been 27 years since I used one with me TS-820S!

Not wishing to enter this pissing match, but here's a fact that's escaped notice thus far.  Add-on serial port cards do not have to be PCI cards today.  Newegg carries a line of cards with RS232 ports that use the PCIe interface (the small sockets with rather few pins) and include the latest UARTs for high speed use.  I don't believe I've run across any state-of-the-art desktop motherboards that don't have at least one or two PCIe ports. 

Check the RFI forum. There have been recent discussions on the subject.  I believe that there are some improved DSL modems that are less susceptible to the problem.  Apparently, some ISPs are now able and willing to address the problem with you and it might be worth calling them.

Hi John.  I had an SM-220 many years ago but I'm afraid that I remember little of the operation.  I was just looking at the schematic, focusing on the RF sampling area.  I'd replace R1 and C1 first as the tap at C1 will get you the maximum output voltage.  The other caps are switched in series with C1 and of course each one that's switched into the mix will reduce the sample voltage when the switch is turned.  Those are not critical values, and you could just series some other small caps to substitute for each of the ones you can't find.  Or, another thing you could do is to build what we used to call "gimmick" capacitors.  Those are constructed by twisting together two wires (something like enameled #20 or so) and using the capacitance between the two wires.  The number of turns required would depend on the size of wire, the insulation, etc.  so if you have a way to measure the capacitance produced, that would be useful.  If not, you could just make maybe 10 twists and then snip off bits of the wires until you achieve a value that produces the output you need for the power level you run.  Sounds hokey, but works very well. 

You might also want to check the values of R2 and R3 and the diodes D2 and D3.

73, Floyd - K8AC

I've had very good success on vacations with a 20M Hamstick mounted on top of my minivan.  The Hamsticks are available with a bayonet base so it takes only a few seconds to take down or erect.  Also available are base mounts that can be fastened to motor home ladders, etc. Depending on the construction of the motor home, you might need to run a short lead to a bolt that goes into the frame, but a ladder is likely already bolted that way.

73, Floyd - K8AC

Hi Zack.  Any chance that you could use a metal pole that rests on a block on the ground and just use conventional eave mounts - one at the top and one secured to the rim joist near the ground?  I'm thinking that a couple of sections of galvanized EMT from Home Depot or Lowes, resting on a 12x12 patio paver might do the job.  The pole could be painted to match the house color.  I've also used angle iron from Home Depot to create a bolt-together bracket in cases where I couldn't find a suitable commercial product.