You all forgot one very important comparison note.  The T4XC has one difference which sets it apart from all the rest of the T4X series, at least when used with the R4C receiver.  That is, there are TWO sync cables to lock the two in tranceive, and this difference makes the C line just that much more attractive.

Up here in Idaho, where, by the way, Steve, we kicked out the Aryans, a few of us DO know the difference.

I'm sorry I can't point you directly, but seems to me I found something along this line, by accident, while snooping around "dxzone.com"    There are catagorized search engines that point you around for various websites and software.

This is not as simple and straight forward as it sounds.  Of course I don't know what I'm talking about because I'm from Idaho.  Lets just think about this a little.  First, if you are planning to use the link up "both ways" you are already in trouble.  What I mean by that, is if you want to downlink what the 2m channel transmits back through the "remote" to your local ht.   How are you going to ID it?  Control it?   Let's say you are out hiking, set the "remote" up in your parked car, on the hill, and you are down in the gully, camping.    If something starts goin on with the retransmitted link that it should be shut down, it will not have a time out like a "real" repeater, nor do most of these have any way for you to control it remotely,--you'll have to walk up there and shut it off. Also, the "real deal" is just what happened here in the Spokane area.  A truck driver, born in New Jersey and living in California, was in the Spokane area, and wanted to set up a remote base with his mobile (in the truck) to work the local KBARA system from his motel with an HT.  Unfortunately, he set it up as previously described, and just happened to pick a 440 freq that was the LINK RECEIVER freq of one of the other local systems on 147.20-correct PL and all.  Both of these are wide area systems, and tie up a lot of area and or spectrum.   So, every time the KBARA system would transmit, his mobile would receive KBARA on 2m and retransmit that audio to his ht, AND ALSO to the link receiver (on 440) of the 147.20 system--retransmitting KBARA's audio through the latter system clear across Washington state.    Note that this side of the "remote" has no IDer and no control circuitry--it just keeps going.  


Now, on the other hand, if you just want to transmit ONE SIDE of the link, from your local HT, to the "remote" HT/mobile, you are pretty much just fine.  You can id it by voice, and if you use PL or DPL, the chance of interference is not so great.  You would have to be able to receive the desired 2 meter channel directly to your local handheld.  The "remote" will only retransmit (on 2) when it hears a signal on its receiver (on 440), and with an odd pl tone you can minimise interference and or jamming.   Try to research, however, what might be an unused 440 freq.  Especially if you are in the hills, you don't want to be "hitting" unwanted, unknown receivers here and there.   The whole problem, of course, is that many "linked" 6/2/440 and other repeaters use 440 for the links, and you may not know what they are.

I have a mark II and like it much better than the TS-50 or Alinco Dx-70 I've had.  However, I really don't like the patch job insofar as the vhf programming (offsets are a pain) and the poor memory scanning comnmands.  I have a few other minor gripes, but generaly am VERY happy with the radio.  

Of course Steve will disagree because, unfortunately, I'm from Idaho.

I have had a number of FT-50's, and probably will never get rid of the present one.   I bought a VX-5, and I'm not too sure yet that I like it that much.   It DOES cover more RX bands, but there are some big holes.  Why Yaesu didn't include the 30-50 low band is beyond me.   They also didn't fix the stupid, delicate belt clip between the FT-50 and the VX-5, either.  

As far as I'm concerned, 6 meters on the thing is about useless.  They should have put something else in there, 222, or 900, 1.2, just about anything except 6.

I also did not like the changes in programming procedure.  The ft-50 is very easy to programm, even one handed, because of the menu and "knob."   They actually made it harder on the vx-5--adding keystrokes that the FT-50 does not need.

However, I DO like the VX-5.  If I hadn't been "spoiled" with the FT-50, I'd probably think the VX-5 was just fine.  I wouldn't waste my time on low power jobs--there isn't that much price difference in the long run, You can turn the power down on the "big" ones to save the battery, and the little tiny lithium battery on the VX-5 lasts a long time.  

Both of these radios, like all other "wide band" radios, have intermod problems.  The solution?   If using a mobile or other external antenna, use a trap or bandpass filter.

Well, I'm sure you won't find the info your'e looking for published anywhere, because Motorola, at least, is very protective and proprietory about this kind of thing.    When I was working on this stuff, a FEW of the older cellphones had pretty much full service literature available to maintain them, but the new stuff, not so.   You fix them with a sort of limited service manual, does not even have a full schematic of the device.

Not all handsets will work on all bagphones, either.

My point was hinting that, if you can find the programming info for one of the "full featured" models, (and this should still be available at some phone outlets, service centers, etc) you could probably pull this off with a pretty much stock phone.

The other thing is, these phones are real cheap at thrift stores and garage sales.   I have a COMPLETE mobile if you want it cheap.  The problem is, I no longer have any programming/setup info.  The Motorola joint I worked for went bankrupt, and I don't know where or if any of the people and tech materials went from there.

WIK may be correct about the drive requirements of the NCL 2000, but only AFTER it is tuned up.   I would advise you strongly to read up on the tuneup and behavier of tetrode tubes--light loading with too much drive can instantly cook the screen grid and ruin the tubes.  

Also, I would NOT assume that the factory pad is set for high power--this is an old amp, could have been through several owners, who knows what the input network has been set to?

WATCH the SCREEN and GRID current on these like a hawk.   The plate current is not the important thing, the grid and screen IS.

I would NOT under any conditions key any of these old amps with a modern transceiver.--Use a separate relay as suggested above.

Well, you weren't too descriptive about the mike connector.  Are you talking about a 4 pin (round) and 8 pin (round) or the 8 pin plastic connector that is the same as a computer LAN connector, or looks something like a telephone connector?

If it is a 4 or 8 pin round, it is just a matter of learning to solder.  Get one of those cheap "third hands" which is a little stand with a couple of alligator clips and sometimes a magnifier on it.  While your at it, consider getting a magnifier lamp.

By the way, are you sure you took the connector apart?  You should not have to "drop solder down in there"  Once you get the connector apart, the pins should be pretty accessable.

If you have the plastic connector, that looks like a phone line connector, you do not solder it--you need a crimper.

I don't know exactly what you are trying to do, but the hardware may just be in place already.   First, realize that not all Motorola bagphones are created equal.  there are newer and older, different firmware/sofware versions, and ones that were made under contract markets without some features in place.

There WAS  a bag/mobile phone chassis made that had a "dialtone" port--The main box looks just like any other bag/mobile, but the 8 pin connector is instead either a 4 or 6 RJ, I forgot which.  Good luck finding one.

Otherwise, some of the mobile/bagphones had an alarm feature.  I've forgotten how I was going to do this, but it seems to me some of the newer ones could be set up to dial up on an alarm feature.  Unfortunately, I have no books anymore.  If you can find a good, old, big, cooperative wireless outlet/service place that still has their old books on these, they might be able to help.  

Well, I think you screwed yourself.    ESPECIALLY the phrase about any use for broadcasting.   The things you mention, garage door openers and so on, are under unlicensed operation--and are therefore pretty much exempt from consideration.   Even CB is unlicensed!!!!!  CB, of all things, could be argued that it is not broadcasting because it is not licensed.   Then you come along with your FCC ham license, and guess what?    How many people do you think are going to say, "yep, that's broadcasting"   You may find that just because of this phrase, you cannot transmit at ANY power level on amateur bands without violating the covenants.  

Hey, you moved there, I didn't

I don't think you want to try, at least what I THINK you want to try.   Are you trying to key the Ft50 in "true" cw--that is, keying and unkeying the radio PTT to turn the transmitter on or off?

I don't believe the PTT circuitry will follow this. There seems to be a minute delay when you key or unkey the thing.

If you want to use MODULATED cw, then you will have to devise the same difference as a "nice" sounding code practice (audio oscillator) and run it into the mike jack as you would a speaker mike. I'll have to look up the connections, you do know, do you not, that the mike jack is a special phone jack with an extra ring?  That is ground, tip, and TWO rings--one is for programming.  

Well, first of all, there is no such thing as a "half sized G5RV."   Any other design, other that which G5RV himself specified, makes it something else, like maybe an "untuned center fed doublet."

To answer your question, tho, I would just let the ends droop.

Sorry, I'm not familiar either.  One thing you might try is search for "packet" and other hit words on the internet--many of the packet help sites have hookups for various radios, and of course show the mike connectors.

That URL came up for me.  I don't have any specific help, but there is a TON of stuff for ham radio software at "www.dxzone.com"  you have to look around there as there is a bunch of stuff.

Do a search , "packet" or "RTTY" or "PSK31" on the web.  Many digital related sites have other types of software downloads on their sites

Not only that, but some modern radios can switch left to right in the radio's setup menu.  And I'm not too sure that the radio's are the same by default, either.  I used to have a Yaesu FT890, and an Icom 751A.   I could swear that when I hooked up my keyer to my new 706, it was different than whatever the keyer was wired for previously.