I agree....CC&R's with NO ANTENNAS are a bummer. I don't understand why at least "reasonable accomodation", such as a multi-band vertical or similar should be allowed in an HOA community. HOWEVER, when you purchased the house, you signed off on the CC&R's. You signed a private contract between yourself and the builder/community to abide by the provisions of the CC&R's. With all due respect, you have no one to blame but yourself. Complaining about it after the fact is an exercise in futility. I feel your pain, as I also live in an antenna restricted community. However, I read the CC&R's, bought the house with knowledge of the restriction, and still operate using stealth antennas with satisfactory results. Where there's a will, there's a way. 

I have a THP HL-1.5KFX since 2007, which has operated flawlessly since then. Not sure if any "major protection" built in, but I have an Alpha Delta coax switch that I ALWAYS switch to ground when not in use. I never leave any antennas in-line, un-grounded, when not operating. Upon approaching thunderstorms, I disconnect all antennas outside. I also have an Icom IC-7600, which some users (and other Icom xcvr users) have reported ESD problems and damage. So far, no incidents on that either. Last summer, I had a direct lightning strike on my main antenna (ground-mounted screwdriver on a hill behind my house). It totally blew up the antenna and shredded the coax, but since it was disconnected outside, no damage to my radios. This summer, the replacement screwdriver is coming off the hill during our thunderstorm monsoon season. Don't want to go through that again :>)

73,   Bob K7JQ

A "no tune" solid-state amplifier is just another technological evolution of our hobby. W8JX... why would you "quit the hobby" if you were forced to use a solid state amp? Remember back when you had to tune tube transmitters and transceivers? Did you quit the hobby when all you could buy were solid-state "no tune" transceivers?

Let's be logical here....a decision to go with a solid state amp isn't open to ridicule (maybe that's too harsh a word) that you are dumbing-down to an appliance operator. All the above posts have valid points...tube amps are (generally) cheaper per watt; they'll tune into SWR's as high as 3:1, etc. And remember...a solid-state amp is only "no tune" if fed directly into reasonably resonant antennas of less than 2:1. Otherwise they'll trip into a fault situation. So you still might have to tune a tuner, unless it too is automatic.

A decision to go one way or the other is purely individual, based on your own operating preferences and financial capabilities. Personally, I've had both, and currently use a THP HL-1.5KFX. It has served me well since 2007, with no problems through extensive contesting use. Good luck with whatever you choose.

73,   Bob K7JQ

Not gonna happen. Government won't get in the way of a private contract between homeowner and builder/HOA, except in regards to satellite dishes. The only reason there is because DirecTV and Dish Network have plenty of money to line the pockets of politicians. Money talks, and the amateur radio community doesn't have it.

I'm installing a ground-mounted vertical, with sixty radials stapled to the ground in a symmetrical pattern. The LMR-400 coax will also be running on the ground (or buried slightly under) in between two of the radials. I want to put a series of snap-on ferrites on the coax to choke off possible common mode currents. Is it best to put them right at the feedpoint, or just outside the radius (radiation field) of the radials? Thanks for any input.

73,   Bob, K7JQ

Thanks again, fellas. I was also thinking about common mode and RFI issues with such a set-up. Alan, you're right (as always :>)....gonna forget about that idea and just run  a separate control cable. The antenna will be in a fixed location....ground mounted on a hill behind my house and out of sight (HOA issues). I'm not really concerned with having a turns counter (I've had them before, and they're not accurate)...just want to know if it's actually moving, and when it stalls at upper or lower limits. I have a light on the up/down controller that lets me know when it stalls, and I can also watch the ammeter on my power supply to see that it's moving, as it draws current. If the current spikes, that'll also tell me when it stalls (and activates the light). I'm replacing a High Sierra HS-1800PRO (blown up by a direct lightning strike) with a Tarheel 200A-HP, and using the existing HS controller with stall indicator light. Also have to replace the coax and control line...both pretty well shredded.

73,

Bob, K7JQ

Thanks for the info, guys. Gonna check into it.

73,   Bob, K7JQ

Thanks for the info. I'll check into these sites.

73,   Bob, K7JQ

Anyone have experience using bias-t power injectors (such as MFJ-4116) to run 13.8V from  a shack power supply through coax to power a screwdriver antenna motor, thereby eliminating a control line? This is actually for a fixed installation with a long coax run. Thanks for any input.

73,     Bob, K7JQ 

Anyone have any experience using bias-T power injectors (such as MFJ-4116) to run 13.8V from a shack power supply through coax to power a screwdriver antenna motor, thereby eliminating a separate control line? Thanks for any input.

73,   Bob, K7JQ

Aaron, look me up on QRZ.COM. Pictures and description of my screwdriver antenna high on a hill behind my house. It's fed with 450 feet of 9913 (similar specs as LMR 400). I've worked over 250 countries and posted some decent contest scores with it. No artificial noise level, no RFI to anything. You're wondering about a 200 foot run? No problem....do it :>)

73,

Bob, K7JQ

Exercise extreme diligence in investigating CC&R's. Don't take the real estate agents' "minimally active HOA" response....they're trying to sell a property, and will tell you anything to get their commission. The CC&R's don't say anything about towers (but you said you haven't read them?), but what about "antennas"? Look for hidden language.  An HOA is the enforcing agency of the CC&R's. However, even if the HOA is "minimally active", an upset neighbor can still take you to court to remove your antenna/tower, if the CC&R's prohibit them. If you're planning on a visible antenna/tower installation, get a real estate attorney to obtain the CC&R's, read and interpret them, and advise you...not a real estate agent (salesperson). And get everything IN WRITING from the proper authorities (subdivision and municipality) before signing on the dotted line. Again, due diligence is critical in this situation. Good luck.

 

For REAL stealth operation, may I suggest a ground-mounted motorized screwdriver, with as many radials as possible, of any length and configuration. Top to bottom length, including a 6-foot whip, is about ten feet. If installed properly, no tuner is needed, and maximum SWR would be about 1.4:1 on all bands from 10-80 meters. Recommend the Scorpion Antenna, or Tarheel (much cheaper, but still good). Many will scoff at this idea, but I just worked 1,000 QSOs in the CQ WPX SSB contest with a High Sierra HS-1800/PRO (now out of production). Also have worked over 250 countries with it. Put some power into it (both will take over a KW) and you can do the same. See my qrz.com page for some pictures. Just a possible alternative. Good luck.

73,  Bob, K7JQ

Dave,

I just ran a length of multi-wire rotor cable along with the coax from the shack to the remote switch in the attic. I think you need to use 4 wires of the rotor cable from the control box to the switch. I do have 1:1 baluns on each dipole, and just the proper length of RG8 or RG8X from the switch to each dipole.

You can get lawn staples from the stores you mentioned, or from DX Engineering (.com). They also sell quality radial wire and other radial kits and accessories. Of course, you'll also need control cable (2 wires) to power the screwdriver. I use the High Sierra HS-1800PRO, but you can also buy quality screwdriver antennas from Tarheel and Scorpion (antennas.com). You can also mount the screwdriver above ground (on a mast), but then it might be more visible, and you'll need resonant radials for each band. They would also have to be connected at the feedpoint (bottom of the antenna), and sloped off in different directions. 

73,  Bob, K7JQ

I also live in an antenna prohibited community. I have half-wave, mono-band dipoles in my attic for 10, 12, 15, 17, 20, and 40 meters, anywhere from 12 to 16 feet AGL. They are my back-up antennas. Each one has a balun to reduce common mode currents, and they are attached to an Ameritron RCS-10 remote antenna switch, with one length of RG8U coax coming down to the shack. I adjusted each one for resonance (time consuming) so, for most frequencies, I don't need a tuner. At the band edges, if the SWR is a little high for my liking, I can use the tuner in my IC-7600 without a problem. The antennas are mostly over a garage, with minimal house wiring and not near any ductwork or HVAC units. The roof consists of wood and concrete tiles, and the sides of the house are stucco (chicken wire base), but all stucco is below the height of the dipoles. Bottom line, they work pretty good (I've worked stations all over the world), with minimal household noise affecting them. Obviously, if they were outside and higher, they would work better, but that's not an option. The most power I'll run to the attic is 100 watts. In your situation regarding the route of the feedline run, coax (52 ohms) would be the best and easiest way to go, and you won't need a remote tuner in the attic.

Another stealth option (that is actually my main antenna), if you could keep it reasonably away from objects and structures, is a ground-mounted motorized screwdriver antenna that would cover 10-80 meters. Mount it on a pipe stuck in the ground, about 6 inches above ground, and attach as many radials as possible of any length, at least as long as the antenna is tall...they don't have to be resonant. Use lawn staples to keep them on the ground. I'm fortunate to be able to mount mine high on a hill behind my house, camouflaged by cactus and underbrush, so it's basically invisible to the eyes of any neighbors or the HOA. Being far from any houses, I can run a KW into it with no RFI or artificial electrical noise level. No tuner needed, as it can be adjusted for minimum SWR (mine is max 1.4:1) anywhere between 10-80 meters. It performs, for me, much better that the dipoles.

Good luck with your project, and hope I've helped.

73,  Bob, K7JQ