Using a sequencer is a good idea. Keeps the slow relays in the right sequence with faster relays in different equipment. You should still use a keying "buffer" between the rig and the amp to protect the sequencer from relay surges. I also use the Heil foot switch Steve mentioned..works great. DX Engineering recently released a sequencer.

Here's one source for generic tuned input boards. There are others..I will keep looking.

http://home.earthlink.net/~wd7s/TU-6B.htm

73, John

A decent article on balun selection and why is posted at www.dxengineering.com under baluns.

John

Check Alan's web-site. He has good article on doing the PL-259 properly.
http://www.k0bg.com/

John

Good comments. I usually try transceiver power first through a decent antenna system..about 90% of time I get the contact..sometimes it takes patience.

I can and do use power when needed - the DX has high QRN/QRM or marginal antenna.

My peev about power is the tuner-uppers right on frequency in-use...moving a 1KHz away doesn't help much either. Seems a lot of ops have overdriven audio or RF on it or its just bad. Loud maybe but not very understandable.

John

Mine depends on how long the power supply has been turned on. (assuming a MKV, not a field) If I turn on the PS, then immediately power on the MKV, it takes about 5 or 6 seconds for the display to come on.

If I turn on the PS and wait a couple minutes or just leave the PS on all the time, the display comes on almost immediate.

John

Yes. Remember a shortened antenna is a compromise.
http://www.dxengineering.com/Products.asp?ID=161&SecID=78&DeptID=22

73, John

Check out this Utility Enclosure  that comes with watertight couplers. You can buy addtional couplers if you need them.
http://www.dxengineering.com/default.asp?DeptID=19

73, John

ARRL has a 3 part article written some years ago regarding grounding practices and lightning protection. Good Reading. Search the ARRL web-site for "lightning". arrl.org

DX Engineering also has those articles and others on their web-site: dxengineering.com

73, John

I have been using my LK-500ZC on 17M for a couple years. Use the 15m position on the band switch, loads fine. Same for 12m.

John

DX Engineering has the PolyPhaser grounding article as well as 3-part article published in QST a couple years ago on their web-site. Also have a white paper on installation techniques.

73 John

The LK-500ZC is the last model they made. 2 3-500's, tuned inputs, QSK. No ALC. Easy legal limit amp, built very well. The 'ZB was an earlier model, nearly identical, made some component changes, etc to make the 'ZC. IMHO, if you'd buy a Heath SB series, these are an improvement over that.

If your not a tub type, don't buy or consider an amp with tubes :>)

73, John

I personally would not cut the BTV tubes, I would rather adjust the traps.

New-tronics can send you a diagram of the factory dimensions for the traps. I would make sure yours matches that before doing anything else.

If you decide to adjust the trap covers, go in very small increments 1/4 inch can move the resonant frequency 500 kHz ! You should not have to move the trap cover more than that. Be sure to re-seal the trap cover.

I would replace the downspout with vinyl anyway though. Use a good 1:1 current balun/line isolator at the base of the vertical. If the balun is metal, isolate it from the radial system.

73 John

The best advice you got was to zig-zag the excess so it is as far apart as possible. Putting some twists in the line will help equalize any coupling.

You should not coil it or attach it to anything metal.

Some antennas use the ladder line as a vertical radiator. Keep the ladder line as perpedicular to the horizontal part of the antenna as possible.

If the ladder is just the feedline, lengths of ODD multiples of 1/8 wavelength on the lowest frequency keeps things in good shape. Use a good current balun to switch to coax before it enters the shack.this stops the feedline from radiating and will reduce RFI.

Good Luck with your project. 73 John

What I ended up doing in my Sable was to run the wire down inside the inner fender well, then into the outside of the door jam, then through the rubber feed through used for the wires coming from the door into the passenger compartment. I tie wrapped the wire so it could flex but not rub the door or hinges. I used a bit of silicone to make sure the wire was sealed as it went into the feed through. Been like that for 3 years. I keep an eye on it, of course, and fuse both the hot and the ground lead.

There was just no open space on the firewall of this vehicle that I could get any kind of drill into without running into something on the other side that woould not appreciate a hole drilled in it!

Good Luck with your Project
73, John