Hi Tom,

I tend to like to tune around and answer CQs.  I believe that I hear a lot more CQs on CW than SSB.  If you are into DX, QRP or even just tuning around, CW is a great thing to know.

My 2 cents.

73, JP, K8AG

My Vote is FT920.  That is my main rig ant it is wired for PSK31 and rig control.  Rig control doesn't require a special cable like a lot of other rigs.  Straight RS232 works fine.

Lots of controls up front so menues are rarely touched.

I have the 250Hz Inrad filter and that really helps in digital as well.

73, JP, K8AG

There are fewer applications for Linux than for Windows.    Some apps you may find you need to build from source code.

If you are interested in learning, Linux is the way to go.  You will be able to learn quite a bit with all of the free tools available.  You will need to spend time putzing with the OS more than with Windows.

If you want to get it up and running quickly with specific applications you may want Windows.

My 2 cents.

73, JP, K8AG

Not too bad, but if the amp transistors are 24V devices, running 24V power may result in destroyed amp transistors due to overvoltage.

Be sure to use some low value resistors in the emitters of the 2n3055s.  The forward bias voltage drop can vary quite a bit even with transistors from the same batch.  This can cause one transistor to carry the bulk of the current.  With the emitter resistors (~0.2ohm should work), the voltage drops will equalize and current will be distributed through all of the transistors.

My 2 cents.

73, JP, K8AG

I have been running a ZS6BKW for several years with several coils of coax at the end of the window line.  Before I put it on, the TV, phone and other equipment was badly disturbed by me keying up.  After the coils, no problem.

It keeps RF from the shack.

My 2 cents.

73, JP, K8AG

SKN is right.  Tape will not last at all.

I have been running several turns of coax taped tywrapped together for several years with not problems.  Be sure to use UV resistant (black) ties.

73, JP, K8AG

I am a big fan of Tektronix scopes.  Still have my 465 and just acquired a really nice 2246a.  Ebay is good if you are careful and ask all of the questions.

Tektronix probes are another matter.  I have had serious problems with some of their probes.  I had a Heathkit probe that failed and its replacement failed as well within the warranty period.  Those were made by Tektronix.  Recently at work we had several fail.  The cheap $15 replacements seem more rugged.

My 2 cents

73, JP, K8AG

I hated paddles.  I never could get the hang of them.  I had a Bencher and figured it had to be good because they are so popular.  But it would miss elements and flop around.  I used a straight key.

Then I asked my wife for a Christmas present last year.  I got a Begali Simplex.  Not the top of the line, but now I understand why paddles are so great.  It makes elements reliably and is just easy to use.

73, JP, K8AG

Receive current is high compared even to the FT817 which is also high with respect to most rigs.

If 12V power may be an issue, you might want to look for something using CW and maybe a KX1.

73, JP, K8AG

Battery in my opinion is the only real limitation.  The finals problem does require care with antennas, but it is an awesome QRP rig.

I went to an SW20+ because I do mainly CW and with the upgraded audio amp in only draws about 20mA in receive.

But my FT817 was awesome.

73, JP, K8AG

If you can't get instructions (and even if you can) it sounds like a trap vertical for 40, 20, 15 and 10 meters.  

You can try the following:

1) Start with all sections near the middle of their positions.
2) Adjust the highest frequency section first (10M, the lowest coil).  Get that coil at the right distance so that you minimize the SWR in the part of that band you want.
2) Proceed in order to the next highest frequency trap (next shortest from the ground).
3) Work you way up until all bands have a good SWR.

You might repeat step 1, 2, 3 a couple of times until the SWRs settle.

This is probably not too different from the instructions that may have come with the antenna.

Good luck

73, JP, K8AG

I believe that the lure of amateur radio is not making the contact, but how the contact is made that is important and impressive.  If I wanted to make the contact every time I can do it much more effectively just picking up a cell phone and calling.  And its a whole lot cheaper than an amp, tower, rotor etc.

I get a kick out of getting a 559 report from someone in Texas when I am running a watt or so.  I think it is amazing to witness the marvelous design of a receiver and the skill of an operator that can pull out a little signal from hundreds or thousands of miles away.

My 2 cents.

73, JP, K8AG

I built my first transmitter from a book called "From CB to Ham Beginner".  It is still available from time to time on Ebay.  Very easy to build and get working.

My 2 cents.

73, JP, K8AG

CRY is right.  Divide and conquer.  Separate the cable from the antenna.  If the dummy load looks good (without a tuner) then the problem is in the antenna.  If not then you have a coax problem at least.

Sounds like a water or corrosion problem, but finding what is the cause is the only way to fix it.

73, JP, K8AG

The whole idea of the loading coil is to make the antenna "rfwise longer".  If the coil is a resonator, that is something different.  A resonator for say 40M would form a current stop on 40M on an antenna designed for say 40 and 80M operation.  It would add a certain inductance to the 80M operation.

The loading coil goes in series with the antenna.


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 Feedpoint
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Ground/counterpoise


A coil can also go other places rather than the base.  It may go near the center of the element.

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 Feedpoint
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Ground/counterpoise

In this case the coil would be different as the current/voltage is different that near the base.

Good luck

73, JP, K8AG