I use MixW for RTTY contesting. I started out with it and just got used to it. Not really a serious RTTY contester but they are fun. I use N1MM for CW and SSB contests and not real serious there either.

10 meters would always likely have more activity than 6 would. 6 is just as much fun when it is open but that is not nearly as often as 10 would be.

So did you end up with both 360pF caps together and the 2 500pF caps together or one of each together?

One thing to consider is the difference in the cost of buying a 500-1000 watt amp that you can use on 120V that you already have and the cost of a 1500 watt amp plus the cost of putting in it's own 240V line, especially if you have to upgrade your electrical service to accommodate a 240V line.
The most can be gained from better antennas. If maxed out on antennas, then an amp is the next performance increase.
I think most would agree that the first 500 watts is the most significant difference.
I use an AL-811 amp on 240V and I am pretty much fine with that. With it an a 2 element quad, I have worked every big deal dxpedition since I have had them, about 7 years. Only 2 or 3 that I couldn't but I never was able to hear them anyway.
I had an AL-1200 sitting here I bought used from a friend for about 3 years and never did a thing with it as I didn't have a 240V line for it and wasn't concerned enough to bother with it so I sold it. I had a 240V line put in this  last August when I had some other wiring done in the kitchen and garage.
The AL-1200 was big and HEAVY! I really hated having to move it around from time to time and I don't miss it.

The AL-80B is a really good bang for buck value and I might consider that sometime.

Of the six I have, My Autronics single lever and my Hamco Scotia are my two favorites.

I'd love to have an old Bunnell double speed key but they are PRICEY when they show up.

It also costs more.
I have acquired both in trades in the past. Didn't like them. It annoyed me that the paddles could unseat and flop around so easily when moved around. They sell a lot of them though and a lot of people do like them. Just not my thing.
I think the chrome Bencher looks better than the gold one.

I have a 1993 AL-811 and I am the third owner. The second owner, a friend of mine replaced the tubes as a couple were broken in shipping to him. I recently had to replace the power switch and that is the only problem I have had with it other although I still need to add some capacitance to the 80 meter padding capacitor. I did add the grid protection board when I replaced the switch.
I also recently added a 240V line to the shack which is a happy thing!! Switching the amp to 240V is very easy to do. Take a look in the manual which you can download.
I would however agree that the AL-80B is the best bang for buck amp out there. If I were going to replace the AL-811, I wouldn't hesitate to buy an AL-80B.

Many logging programs will show the beam heading (some both long and short path) when you enter the callsign of the DX.
Unless you have quite a few elements on a rather long boom, you only have to be kinda close most of the time.
Eventually you will just know what the most used beam headings are.
Headings for your specific location are going to have to be made up yourself. Maybe there is some software out there that would help.

A ground rod pounded in the bottom of the hole for the tower and welded to the rebar (also welded together) in the tower base is what I understand to be one of the best ways to provide a good ground for lightning concerns.
Also it is important to have all grounds connected to your electrical service ground.

And yes, read the article by W8JI.
There are 3 stickies in the antenna and feedline forum on QRZ.com that are worth a read that discuss ground systems.
Also, "Lightning; Taming Thor's Thunder on a Budget" by K9KJM is a good read. You'll find it in a search.

The CM-U and CM-1 are tuned input units.
It would depend if you are using a tube final amp rig or a transistor final amp rig.
If using a transistor PA rig I would although I understand some are less sensitive to
a somewhat high SWR than others are.

They did, the CM-1. It didn't have band switching for the WARC bands though although it may work ok on them.
Amp Supply had a tuned input kit for Dentron amps that was internal. I put it in my Clipperton L. It was about $100 back then.

Not much to offer here but...
If there are ribbon cables, make sure they are all well seated. Some of them may look like they are but are not.

Hamstuff.com (W7NN) has very good and inexpensive card stock for printing QSL cards.

http://www.hamstuff.com/QslKitPage/qslkit.html

I used to use his card stock. I quit printing my own. I use too many of them and it can get expensive in ink jet cartridges.
There are a couple of mine on his website but they were done in MS pub and didn't format well with his version at the time.
They looked a lot better in real life.
I went back to buying 1000 at a time from WWDXC our DX club for about $70. Just less hassle.
If you don't use very many then printing your own can be worthwhile.

It won't be cheap that's for sure.

I packed an IC-746 Pro not too long ago that was going to the east coast from Seattle.

With insurance and all it cost $75 give or take a buck with UPS Ground delivery. It was about 26 lbs. double boxed. I had the original shipping carton and Styrofoam pieces. It was inside a much larger box with a few inches of packing peanuts all around it.

I keep the original boxes and such for everything ham radio related I buy.

A lot will depend on how it is packaged up. It better be done right!!

A couple shipping related comments from the reviews of the 7800;


It wouldn't fit through the front door...now that's my kind of RADIO!!

If any one person yells "RUN", everyone is to do exactly that!!