If you are into a little roll-your-own, this is my GoBox design: http://www.kg4rul.info/GoBox.pdf

Use a http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/fm_txvrs/0710.html

with a http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/ht/3072.html

to implement http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/fm_txvrs/0710sky2.html

I use the hole in the boom to mount it to a heavy-duty camera tripod.  I tilt the tripod head to the maximum elevation for the pass the bring the antenna to horizontal.  Aim it at the azimuth for the AOS then lock the azimuth rotation.  Rotate the antenna boom on the elevation axis to sweep from the AOS azimuth through the LOS azimuth as the pass progresses.  I have used this setup with an Alinco 70CM HT (use an earbud to listen) for the downlink and an iCOM 2M HT for the uplink.

The DX Engineering vertical with a remote auto-tuner at the base.  This is what I use with a 41' vertical - no fuss, no muss.

Trident Amateur Radio Club, Charleston, SC, board meetings are held on the first Monday of the month and are open to the general membership.  General meetings are held on the third Monday.

Am I correct in assuming that you do not own the property or have explicit, written permission to use it??

I have a 2010 Suburban with the following: Yaesu FT-7900 VHF/UHF; Yaesu FT-8800 VHF/UHF; Alinco DX-SR8t HF; Midlands CB; Uniden BCD-396XT Scanner; MFJ Programmable Screwdriver Antenna Controller; Ameritron Remote SWR/Power Meter; Gap Hear-It DSP Amplified Speaker; Lil Tarheel II Screwdriver mounted on the tailgate w/Lip mount; VHF/UHF antenna mounted on the tailgate w/Lip mount; CB antenna on magnetic mount in center of roof; Larsen NMO scanner antenna on luggage rack mount over front passenger door; Comet VHF/UHF antenna on luggage rack mount over driver door.  In my case, no kids to worry about, the third seats are removed and all the radio chassis, with the exception of the CB, are in the third seat, foot wells.  I specifically looked for an LS model to get the bench seat.  I removed the cushion and seat back for the middle seating position which left me a nice base to mount the gear on.  The radio control heads, the antenna controller, the control for the SWR meter and the amplified speaker are mounted on a finished piece of Birch plywood cut to fit on top of the console.  A 12VDC distribution box, utilizing PowerPoles, is in the console.  I also included a dual PowerPole assembly in the top panel for accessory connections, as needed.  All connections from the console to the radios exit the console along the transmission tunnel and are covered in a split, woven wire loom (I didn't want to bury them under the carpet and make them difficult to service).  And, yes, this vehicle was bought with Amateur Radio in mind.

What you are aiming towards is a complex, infrastructure dependent system - wait, are we not describing the commercial systems that exist today? 

What makes Amateur Radio so unique is our ability to create ad-hoc systems.  Depending on frequencies that are line-of-sight and require many, substantial, antenna support structures makes us just as vulnerable in a disaster scenario.  Packet radio and other HF based systems can be established in a short time, albeit with limited capabilities. 

While many would like to sell the powers-that-be on the concept that we can make it as if nothing has happened, i.e. use your E-Mail just like you always did, we just don't have the bandwidth and infrastructure to make that happen.  If we can't deliver, it could surely come back to bite us on the a$$!

I am one of the 13 Colonies operators from SC and I know that we basically break even in the end if DX operators send the required postage amount.  For example a lot of DX operators send a $1.00 when postage is actually $1.10 to their country.  So, when a stateside operator sends a buck along with their SASE or a DX operator sends an extra buck, it gives me some funds to make up the difference from the DX operators who don't send the full amount.

As far as my personal operations go, a SASE sent with your card gets a return card.

The problem with the U-100 is the position sensing system.  In the rotator head is a switch attached to gearing and a cam that actuates the switch momentarily for each 10 degrees of rotation.  In the controller is a solenoid that is pulled in when the rotator head switch closes and rotates the position indicator in 10 degree jumps.  So, all you know about the actual position is that it is somewhere in a 10 degree range of rotation at any given instant.

I currently have an Alinco DX-SR8T installed in my vehicle.  I am using it with a Lil Tarheel II with an Ameritron remote SWR/Wattmeter and an MFJ programmable antenna controller.  I also added a GAP Hear-It, DSP, amplified speaker.  This has been in place for about 8 months with absolutely no problems.  The Alinco is not as sophisticated as some all-band/all-mode radios but, for the price point, it can't be beat.

Look for DDRR (Direct driven ring radiator)  antenna designs.  They are less than 4" in height.

Try this site to calculate some estimated loss numbers: http://www.vk1od.net/calc/tl/tllc.php

It depends on whether the operators are on the company clock when operating.  If they are volunteering their time, then no conflict.

Put the horizontally polarized antenna on a metallic mast (it will only marginally disturb the pattern).  Then extend the mast from there with a non-metallic material for the vertically polarized antenna.