I've got an Icom W32A and the G71 Kenwood. The Kenwood is subtly "cheaper" in the physical quality department, but the Kenwood is a better RADIO. If you buy the W32, don't forget to buy a wheelbarrow full of batteries to run it on. [8^(

I would think twice about using the W32A for this application. I used mine into a roof-mounted unity gain folded monopole for a while before getting a real radio - intermod from local pager systems, NOAA weather radio, police radios, etc. just blew this sucker out of the water. I've heard the G71A is not as bad in the intermod department but I expect just about any HT will be problematic for the use you are considering. My G71A is a fine radio for it's intended purpose, but I would not consider latching it up to a high gain antenna.

If you have an HF radio, you might want to check this out:

http://www.eham.net/calendar/details/1115

Gap recommends the Titan be guyed. They aren't kidding. I made the stupid mistake of allowing one included angle of a 4-rope guying setup to exceed 90 degrees (more like 120). Had a storm here last week, and naturally the wind found the weak spot and blessed me with an artistic 30 degree bend in the center section. So now I get to spend a weekend fixing the sucker rather than operating. {8^( Lesson: when working on antennas, think outside the "electrical box". As others have noted, this is a great DX antenna but not-so-hot for relatively short range work on the low bands.

It seems to me that learning code is more a matter of having the motivation to practice REGULARLY than anything else. I wasn't impressed with any of the "gimmicky" solutions, so I downloaded a boatload of free audio files from http://www.aa9pw.com/radio/exam.html and practiced with them daily until I could copy 100% at 7wpm. This small amount of extra speed made taking element one pretty much strain free. I'm still using the code files from this site to increase speed. Your results may differ.

Government service is an oxymoron.

Driving a standard copper-clad steel rod through the caliche around here is next to impossible. So I solder a hose connector to a 3/4"x10 foot copper pipe and water drill the suckers in. No sweat.

Thanks for reminding me. I need to see my broker about buying some stock in a hearing aid manufacturing company. {8^)

How about CW-A-P. That would work well with an Elmer Fudd jacket patch. {8^)

Doesn't seem to be a download posted at their web site, but you can email them at: gap@gapantenna.com

I'm sure they would be happy to mail you a manual. 73

That makes at least two of us who have made the same observation N0RKX. The ones I hear whining the loudest seem to have this attitude that they have a RIGHT to the HF bands and everything else. Any system that stands in the way of that "right" is obviously unfair. I got my start in Amateur Radio as an OF (over 50; old fart; take your pick), so missed out on learning this new attitude. Those politically incorrect, irrelevant old fools that I grew up with gave me this oddball idea that if you really want something, you do whatever it takes to get it. How could they have been so unenlightened? I've given serious thought to buying a gift certificate for a CB and giving it to the next Tech I hear crying in his/her beer about Morse code.

I looked at the Code Quick demo but passed it up, reasoning that I would not hear very many ops transmitting "dog-did-it" on the bands. {8^) Just kidding - Code Quick may be just the thing for you.

Whatever cons there might be with NiMH batteries have apparently escaped me. What I do know is that my battery-eating IC-W32A craps out about half as soon with a NiMH pack vs. a NiCd pack. It's also lighter with the metal hydride pack installed, which is nice when I have a need to drag it around for hours at a time. Prices are essentially equal these days, so I can't think of a reason to buy NiCd.

You might want to double check the contact between the NMO mount and the roof sheet metal if you've not already done so. I was unable to get decent metal-to-metal contact until I ground the paint completely off around the mount hole (inside and out) with a Dremel tool. FWIW, SWR across the 2m band with my Larsen setup runs 1.2:1 to 1.4:1. Mighty fine little antenna systems.

I seemed to have the same problem when the dit paddle contact gap was set too wide. Not sure I understand why this occurs or if I'm the only person in the world with this problem, but it went away when I adjusted the gap. One of life's mysteries I suppose.