It's going to take me a while to digest all of this.
First off what would be an acceptable suppressor inductance and construction for this application?>>
The problem is every layout is different. Think about what is happening. At some frequency the grid connection inductance is parallel resonant with grid capacitance. In a tetrode you have TWO grids that might be a problem.
If the anode circuit is resonant near or above that frequency the tube can easily oscillate.
Not only does the anode path construction control the required anode inductance, so does the grid wiring.
At whatever frequency the grid lead is parallel resonant the anode path has to have an impedance that is either very low or mostly resistive. So obviously anything required is heavily layout dependent.
In a good layout with wide smooth short anode leads (like 3/8th inch strip or wider) and a vacuum cap mounted solidly to the sheet metal, and short wide grid leads through the socket slots to the chassis, it probably takes about five turns 3/4 inch diameter and 1 inch long. That's about 300nH and 200 ohms XL on 100MHz. The resistor would probably be 100 ohms or less so it dominates the circuit on 100MHz.
What is an acceptable resistor inductance? A lot of these metal oxide film resistors do have some spiraling in their construction.>>
Why don't you buy some Ohmite OY series resistors? Like these:http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=%252bTRNBkpqqgisrj2sYdEIZg%3d%3d
They are metal composition styles. They are handy to have.
<<I don't have a lcr bridge but I couldn't get any of these resistors to measure any inductance on a cheapy meter I have or resonate with a 100pf cap using a grid dipper up to 250mhz. >>
I'm not sure you can grid dip the resistor because coupling would be low. It takes pretty high Q to dip something. The important thing is you want the current to shift over into the resistor fast above ten meters. A capacitor in the order of 50 or 100 pF in series with the resistor will help that a great deal, because while the inductance is increasing in reactance the capacitor will be dropping.
Look at what the AL-811H amplifier does.
<<My anode circuit is mostly 1/2 inch copper strap except for the 3 turns of #12 in the suppressor. The vacuum variable is mounted to a bracket that is bolted to the chassis as close to the tube as I can get it. I have a glass chimney. The loading variable is also bolted directly to the chassis not to the front panel. >>
<<I guess in summary this all boils down to I need a tuned input, probably more drive and a better suppressor not to mention a better power supply.>>
I wouldn't do a thing until you add the tuned input and see how it acts. Change one thing at a time. First order is the tuned input with a lowpass configuration. Do it right near the tube.
To ensure high efficiency you have to have a low impedance cathode to chassis path on the second harmonic of the drive frequency. The capacitor on the tube side has to have a low impedance on the second harmonic, so for ten meters you would probably want to use a 50-100pF cap even if that results in an input Q of 5 or more.
You have to get rid of the second harmonic generated in the cathode by shorting it to ground.
All of this involves some cut and try because the layout has a large effect on values.
If you look at the AL1200, and that tube is the rough electrical equal of a 3-1000Z since it uses the 3-1000Z filament and grid, there are two 50 ohm coaxial lines in parallel to the tuned input. This 25 ohm line allows moving the tuned input away from the tube without hurting efficiency.
If that line is replaced with a single 50 ohm line efficiency on 15 and 10 meters drops about 10 % or more. This is a trick that allows you to move the input circuit away from the tube.
A pair of 3-500Z's I did for Heathkit went from 45% anode efficiency on ten meters to 63% just by adding a second line from the tubes to the tuned input. It was a ~17 inch long lead.
Have fun and be careful.