Another possibility is that the amplifier is just overwhelming the radio front end.  It's been mentioned here recently that general purpose SWL radios often don't play well well with amplifiers because they can't handle the higher signal input level.  Thus, you are better off to just use a good random length wire.

You might do a search of the posts in this forum for more info.

73, Bill

The deck edge whips on aircraft carriers only rotate to the 90degree/horizontal position, though they do flex a bit downwards at the tip.  

The whips are mounted this way to provide clearance from the aircraft on deck.  When coming into port or not operating with embarked aircraft for extended periods the whips are rotated to the vertical position.

Salty Bill

Since you are not looking to make any measurements and therefore don't really need a real (and expensive) spectrum analyzer, another alternative is to buy a used Service Monitor that has a basic SA function.  

Service monitors from the 1980's would be in a much lower price category.   And as a bonus you would have all the other functions that come in handy from time to time such as signal generator, O-scope, digital VMM, signal strength meter, etc, depending on the particular model.

Bill

This question reminds me of the Kohler plumbing commercial "Build me a house around this faucet".

heh.

b.

<<Also, say there was a school activity, can we use ham radio to help with communications within school?>>>

Its reasonable to perform demonstrations, conduct license training, school ham club contacts, ARISS, etc.
Probably even helping out with general comms for occasional special events like fairs, or school open house.

On the other hand, I don't think it appropriate for hams to participate in routine business of the school like hall monitors, bus loading/unloading, class movement coordination.  If the school wants that kind of service they need to get a public service license and buy their own radios on the appropriate freqs.

Don't be afraid to originate traffic with NTS.  I think you will find them quite happy to pass it.

73, Bill

datasheets.org.uk seems to have more detailed specsheets:

http://www.datasheets.org.uk/pdf/2518705.pdf

good luck.  bill

Here is some basic info:

16032:

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/2401090.pdf


mth35n05:

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/2518168.pdf

I agree with the aformentioned risks,

but, YES, I've mounted a Ringo 1/2wave 2meter antenna on about a foot long piece of tubing using a generic mast mount from radio shack on an a black iron vent pipe.  

Everything was kept as short as possible to minimize the moment-arm.  It was located very low on my roof so it was fairly protected from winds.  Worked fine for me for several years.

Bill

You can get all sorts of speculation here without ever getting a reliable answer.

The beauty of Heathkits is that you can repair them yourself and learn how they operate.  Go buy a copy of the manual from any of the many vintage manual dealers.  You can probably do a trial alignment in less than an hour.  If it doesn't work, it will probably take only a few days to rehab it end to end and have a great little VTVM.

Good luck!

You are measuring this with a good external wattmeter, in say CW mode into a dummy load right?

Do you have the tools to work titanium?

It's extra strong and light, but it tends to spall and chip when drilled.

One thing to consider is using a higher quality coax. One that is specified with "Non-contaminating jacket".  This will help prevent compounds in the outer jacket from reacting with the copper braid.

73, Bill

I think one reason is that they are sensitive to installation conditions, probably because they depend on both the feedline and the supporting metal pole for matching and radiation.  Some people report that they can never get good swr, and reception.

www.k0bg.com

Everything you ever wanted to know about mobile installations.   If you still can't figure it out, Allan frequently responds to posts here.  

Good luck, Bill

I would suggest that you run the lowest possible power for the first couple months, e.g. 25 -30 watts.  Once any glitch happens, you'll be the "obvious" cause, whether real or not.  Another idea is to keep an an old fashioned logbook of your actual operations.  That way if a neighbor complains, make them provide the times and dates first. Then you can refute by showing your log.

Good luck!   Bill