Well, My thought is that your shack and your antenna don't have to originate in the same place.  Heres' my unusual thoughts:

Random Wire:  use a tuner similar to the SG-230 up in the 3rd floor attic space to feed a wire outside running to the farthest and highest support you can manage.  You don't need to use a huge fat wire and if you use wire with dark insulation, all the better.  Magnet wire can be enough.  Add counterpoises as much as possble and ground - SGC has good info on their website as to how to use these.

Another option would be to put the tuner at ground level, run antenna wire up the outside of the house to the 3rd floor, then run to tree as above - then put counterpoise wires under ground.

ARRL has a very useful small book called "Low Profile Amateur Radio" with lots of good tips.

I don't think it would be any improvement worthy of the $$ you would spend, but if you want something less obtrusive - go to an art supply store and buy a few feet of copper stick on foil - maybe 3/8" wide - make dipole on window and go from there - you could make a 440 as well.  I would use a 'sticky pad' to attach the end of the co-ax to the glass for soldering to the foil tape.

Bud now sells and adaptor that fits the Versa T  bottom thread and converts it to the common painter's extension pole fitting.  Not an expensive bit.

Painters poles come in a huge variety of lengths and materials.  They are relatively inexpensive, albiet typically colorful but may suit your purposes.  If I did not already own the full BuddiPole package, I would be looking hard at this choice for a mast for it.

I have a BuddiPole and the MFJ 33' fishing pole mast and let me tell you that it is not suitable for much extension with the buddipole on it - the lower sections are pretty rigid but the upper ones are pretty...wavy.  This is the old friction fit pole though - I understand they have some newer ones that might be more rigid.

Thanks all.

Yes, I'm aware of the pitfalls of using a tuner [or as I prefer to call it, Transmatch], which is why I've gone to more or less resonant dipoles, but I don't have them tuned to the last quarter of an inch, hence the tuner to make sure the radio stays happy and give me greater operating latitude.

I do have a Coupler as well for my vertical, but that would not be appropriate for use with an amp, being rated for 200 watts SSB.

Generally speaking, what is required for an amplifier to have a good match for an antenna?  less than 1.5 to 1 or better?  or worse?

I'm just curious so far - I've always used a tuner even with [more or less] resonant dipoles, just to keep things in trim so I have not been hugely involved in trimming my antenna to the last inch.

Make yourself a 1/4 wave vertical or regular dipole - turn your power down to 5 watts and have at it.  There's so little traffic on 10 these days you are not going to be bothering anyone.  Provided you can send your callsign for ID, I doubt anyone will give the slightest rip about your using 10.

Good for you.  Sounds like they were sensible enough in the end.  Would be nice if more HOA's took that line.

Looks less expensive than the BuddiPole but if I read it right, it's 40 and 20 only.

Looks reasonably compact though.

Anyone got working experience with it?

On the off chance that you are serious and don't know who to ask:  TCI Communications in Fremont, CA can provide what you are asking for.

IIRC, the cost of such an antenna is in the neighborhood of $250,000. plus the land on which to install it.  Of course, that's an omnidirectional gain TCI-540.  If your needs are more directional, they have less expensive options.

Commercial grade hardware to be sure.

You should not have any problem taping two coax together - I run 10 coax in a bundle to my shack with no identified problems so far.

Just a thought, but since you are going to the trouble, you might want to also run a 4 or 6-wire bundle along with it - in case you want to power an antenna coupler or some sort of remote coax switch later on.

No experience with Hi-Q antennas myself but they are considered one of the better brands.

Another good stealthy option is a wire loop fed with a coupler such as an SG-230.  1 coax run, a power connection and you are good to go.

Sounds like you just had to ask the right questions.  Good for you.

I read about one [obviously well-off] Amateur who went so far as to buy the roof of the building [because he also bought the penthouse unit] and had the building design engineer add in his antenna mounting into the building structure.  Now that's planning ahead.

I wonder if you could mount a screwdriver in the back and use a telescoping whip that you could retract when not operating - it's thin and won't be that tall from the front - as long as nosy does not see you putting it up or down?

I have to admit, I'd got for a 20 meter vertical with a birdhouse on top.  You know, if it's really floppy, then you may have to guy it with a fan dipole.

But you know the enemy best.  

Comet and Maldol both have tri-band antenna in their lineup.  I'm not wild about mine, it's rather an alligator on 6, although adequate on 2/70.

Since a vertical has good low radiation angles from the get-go, I'm not sure how much advantage you would get with the big pole, plus the added fuss of elevated radials/counterpoise wires, but that's just me.

Seems to me the HQ is about the best of the bunch if you have to have a stealth up and down.

No trees at all that you could sneak a wire up for a vertical with tuner at the base?