Not wishing to get into the discussion of the need or desirability of using large amounts of power on modes that require very little, there is, as has been pointed out, the need for more careful monitoring of operating technique on digital modes.

I consult the technical specifications for my rigs to determine what maximum level of power my rig is capable of producing in AM mode. That number becomes my upper limit - a never exceed power output level.

Using Signalink USB interfaces, I set the rig power at maximum output. I then carefully monitor the ALC level during transmit and use the output level on the Signalink to keep the ALC completely off and power at or below the upper power limit - for me usually quite a bit below.

If I cannot reduce the output power enough with the Signalink control, I reduce the output level on the computer. Tigertronics has an excellent guide for steps to accomplish this on their website. I always double-check myself to be certain I am adjusting levels for the Signalink sound card, and not the computer sound card.

I then EXPECT other hams to let me know if I am not transmitting a clean signal and I let others know when they need to adjust settings.

I used to think today's modern transceivers made operation much simpler. Certainly CW and SSB are. However digital operation takes skills (I have found) that rival the days of old - tuning tube equipment and controlling modulation - albeit lacking the old time glow. Good luck, tune carefully, and 73.

Pete

While Greg's explanation is most likely the case, there is another intriguing thought. Given the rise in tensions with regard to certain rogue states threatening to launch nuclear missiles, it is possible that some OTH radar systems have been causing some of the hash.

Since high accuracy target acquisition/tracking radars operate on more or less conventional frequencies (for radar), they also are much more expensive to deploy in a constant surveillance mode. OTH systems have seen a return in usefulness since they are less expensive to deploy for covering large geographic areas. They provide useful launch detection which then is tracked by more conventional systems. Since the most effective range of frequencies for these systems is 3-30MHz, it is possible we could notice them operating by the presence of "hash" on our allocated frequencies. Perhaps some radar system design engineer will chime in here.

I too have noticed the very abrupt rise of this "hash" which seems to almost be switched on and off. Very curious.

A few useful tips that are not readily apparent to Windows users: (and don't seem to get posted much)

1) When the system slows down, do a CTRL-ALT-DEL (simultaneous) and bring up the Task Manager. This works on every version of Windows. Click the Performance tab and look at CPU and memory usage. Then inspect the Processes tab and see which process is loading the system down. It is quite another issue to determine what process is attached to what task, but at least you will know if you have a CPU/program issue or what. As you gain experience, you can eventually decipher what programs have installed junk tasks that are useless and CPU-hogs and either remove them or kill the offending task.

2) Download a current copy of the little CCleaner utility. After installation there are some tabs on the left of it's interface. Start at the top and let the program analyze and fix the junk file issues it uncovers. No need to save the files about to be deleted. Next, let CCleaner examine your registry. Tell it to repair all the issues it discovers. It would be a wise idea to let it save a copy of the registry before doing this, but I have never found I needed the backup. Finally examine the Startup tab (under the TOOLS tab) and see what loads during bootup. Lots of junk gets loaded sometimes and these only slow down the system. Restart the computer after this.

3) Run the Disk Defragmenter utility found in START -> PROGRAMS -> ACCESSORIES -> SYSTEM TOOLS. This defragmentation will take a while, but will help you get your computer running as fast as it can go. If your system HDD has less than 30-40% free space, consider adding another HDD to free up some space (or a larger drive).

JT65 (and face it, everything you do on a computer) is time sensitive and everything that slows the system down will impact your enjoyment of JT65. I perform this little routine each week without fail - or whenever I sense the computer slowing down.

Sorry if this is all old hat.
73
Pete

Maybe someone mentioned this, but the PSK reporter site (here: http://pskreporter.info/  ) is easily much more valuable than the old beacon method. Go to the MAP page. You can declutter the map by examining each band of interest. You can see a graphic representation of which bands are open and to where. What you cannot always see, if there are not many hams on in your vicinity, is how the propagation is from your QTH.

I will say this about JT65. I have worked all over the world running 2.5 watts and an OCF dipole and I have done so on almost every band. I have even made contacts in the US coast to coast on 160m using an end fed antenna.

I used to think my beloved CW was the ultimate DX mode because I could work very weak signals and be heard with very modest power levels. JT65 puts CW to shame in those regards. I have worked stations that could not be heard or seen on the waterfall and were -24db below the noise floor. Just bear in mind that it isn't a rag chew mode. Too slow for that. But for anything else it is stellar.

Forgot to mention this. A multi core computer will make JT65 much more enjoyable. It isn't an absolute necessity, but it really does help. I use a Win 7 Pro I-Core 3 laptop which is several years old. Works wonderfully.

I too am constantly amazed at how many folks can hear my little FT817 and very modest antennas. For me, being "hearing challenged", JT65A has been a real blessing - as are all the digital modes. I sometimes even go down to 160m and have made contacts extending as far as the east and west coast from my QTH in Texas!

Paddy

I can sympathize with your problem. However I have discovered that most, if not all of the problems I have encountered using the SignaLink USB with my FT450D have been caused by running Windows 7. Since my brain gets confused with all the various settings, I start from the beginning.

I can tell you that the SignaLink/450D combination works. There is no fundamental flaw. Let's start there.

1. Unplug the SignaLink from the rig and open the SignaLink up. Put the computer on the Tigertronics website under SUPPORT - SignaLink. Find the .pdf document that lists all the radios and connections. Find the Yaesu section and the 6 pin mini DIN connections. Make sure you're looking at the connections for the FT-450D. Double check that you have the correct header. If you're not sure, unplug it and hard wire it per the diagram. Now we know the SignaLink is correct.

2. Look at the cable that goes from the SignaLink to the 450D. Inspect the pins in the 6 pin mini DIN carefully under good light and make sure all the pins are straight. Don't ask me how I know about this! Carefully insert the cable in the rig. Now we know the connection is good.

3. Turn the 450D on and set the MODE to show USB and DATA in the display. Check the setup menu items to make sure you have the rig set to run in data mode/USB. Now the rig is working. Turn the rig off.

4. Now here is where I have found the most problems. On the Tigertronics website under that SUPPORT - SignaLink tab, look for the "WINDOWS 7 SETUP' item. Walk slowly and carefully through that section. Windows 7 does not handle soundcards well. It does strange and nasty things at times. If, in the future, your setup quits working, I would go here and re-walk through the Windows 7 set up again. Be sure the on-board computer sound card is set up as the DEFAULT sound card - NOT THE USB CODEC listing. This will cause the whole system to fail if it is set wrong and guess what? Windows 7 sets the default sound card to different configurations all by itself! Bless it's pointy little heart. Anyway, now we should have the computer working.

5. Now turn the 450D on and power up the SignaLink. Start HRD and minimize it when it gets up. No need for the Logbook at this point. Start DM780. Go to OPTIONS and look down to the SOUNDCARD tab. There is a soundcard selection for TX and RX with drop down selections. Select the USB CODEC for both RX and TX. Close the SOUNDCARD tab. Now look on the left side of OPTIONS for PTT. On that tab set the little check box for PTT TO BE CONTROLLED BY HRD. There is a box around this selection. Now when you send PSK or whatever, DM780 will request HRD to send the PTT code to the rig and you should get some RF.

6. I have crashed and burned several times here. Make sure that if you are running the USB connection for the SignaLink to your computer through a USB HUB that you have one with external power and that it is powered on. Symptoms of this are no red LED PTT light on the SignaLink, DM780 shows to be transmitting, but the rig remains in RX. Sometimes the red LED PTT light will come on but the rig will not utter a peep. What happens is that you have exceeded the current capability of the USB port. Turning on the external USB HUB power will fix that issue.

7. There is one final step. If everything is working you will be tempted to just forget this agony and focus on the ecstasy. DON'T DO IT. Get a notebook and write everything down or print out this poor guide I've attempted to share and put it down on paper. trust me. At some point you may need it again. Bookmark the Tigertronics website SUPPORT page. You may be back.

8. One last note: Changing Digital programs (at least one I have found) causes Windows 7 to reset the default soundcard during setup to something other than what works with other digital programs. Be aware of this idiocy and you'll do fine. I am certain that HRD, and it's siblings, will work with JT65-HF, JT Alert and JT Macros. All bets are off on this setup working with others. 

WHEW! Now pour yourself a cup of tea and ponder whether it was all worth it as you enjoy the digital modes.

Good luck and 73
Pete

I have been a computer systems engineer since we barely had computers and have worked with almost everything ever made - programming in machine code (and lots of others) for military and space hardware systems. I won't comment on the usefulness of either PC or Mac. I have a Mac G5 that I was given by a granddaughter. I have several built/purchased PC's.

I will say this. I have always been, and remain, deeply offended by Apple's policy of "planned obsolescence" and their obvious disregard for their customer base. When one of their machines falls out of favor at Apple, it is just too bad for those customers who paid out the nose for Mac systems. I even had a Mac tech one day who told me, "Don't be cheap, go buy a new Mac system." In a pig's eye.

I also deplore the software situation that exists with every Apple product. If you need software for a specific application, chances are it will not have been written for a Mac. Why? Sales volume and proprietary policies. I don't want to have to spend months writing software when I can get it already written for a lot less than my time would cost. I wouldn't (and haven't) ever considered writing software to sell for a product that sells 1 system for every 25 the competition sells.

You should consider these two items carefully before spending hard-earned money on a computer. PC's can be made extremely reliable if you are diligent about junk software, watch for hardware problems, and learn your system. Others have mentioned system memory. Mac's are not the trouble-free panacea some would have you believe. Heaven help you if they obsolete your hardware/software combination.

One last thing to consider. Both Mac's and PC's now use Intel processors. Guess who has more experience designing system architecture for the Intel chip set?

Just my comments anyway. Worth exactly what you paid for them.

73   Pete

I agree with what is being said here about non-standard CQ's.

One trick I learned is that if you don't get that DX station on your first try, watch the progression of the QSO carefully and give him a call as soon as he sends "73" rather than waiting for him to send another CQ.

Some seasoned DX operators try to speed the process and don't send the standard "RRR" or "73" reports, but instead send something like "R73 DX <callsign>" with some consideration of the 13 character limit. Again, that won't allow the automatic process, so you have to either have set the QSO up beforehand or double clicked on his CQ previously and manually enable TX.

All in all though, sending the standard CQ works best, unless you hunt and pounce.

GDX 73 AE5J
Pete

 

I see this obsession with owning the most expensive/latest toy in so many areas it is just not funny.

People flock to the camera stores to drop multi thousands of dollars on the latest and "greatest" digital SLR body and lens without realizing that some of the finest glass in the world was made many years ago. And the finest photographs ever taken (and still so) are made with nearly 100 year old cameras. But, who cares about all that, drop that money.

Look at cars. My daughter got talked into buying an uber-expensive German brand car and then called me to complain that an oil change cost over $900. I advised her to sell it.

I think everyone needs to ask themselves what ham radio is really all about: sitting in front of grossly overpriced equipment and gazing rapturously at the little lights; or actually using that equipment to make contacts and friends the world over. I learned a long time back that to make contacts, spend your money on antennas. No amount of money spent on a rig can make as extreme a difference.

Back during one of our famous oil boom to bust cycles, when everyone was losing all their  expensive toys, there was a very popular bumpersticker that read: "Dear God. If You make it better, I promise not to waste my money like last time." Still rings true. Spend wisely.

Just a thought. When you order the SignaLink USB, they have pre-wired modules for various radios that make the internal jumper setting of the SignaLink fool proof.

The wiring itself is not hard, but I can actually change my SignaLinks to work with my different radios in less than 30 seconds and am assured that the wiring inside is correct. Pretty good bargain for $8 or so when you order.

Exactly. The easiest and best operating technique would be simply to tune down into the CW portion of the band and send a directed CQ to the country or region you need when you hear a station there on JT65. You could even set up one VFO on the JT65 frequency and the other one down in the CW band - assuming your rig has two VFO's.

Under the topic of somebody might need this some day, here is one problem I found that absolutely defied all attempts to solve it. The SignaLink USB was keying the 817, it was in DIG mode, the transmit light was on, audio working properly and getting to the rig. I was using Ham Radio Deluxe and all the settings were correct. But there was no output power. For a little while I started to suspect my finals had gone, but then switched to CW and there was RF out. I unplugged the SignaLink from the 817 and plugged it into my 857D. Same problem! I finally thought about re-booting the computer. After it came back up I realized what was wrong.

I had a 10 port USB 2.0 hub so that I could use any of four rigs and other computer controlled USB devices. In my eagerness to get on the air, I did not turn on the AC power to the outboard power supply for the USB hub. I flipped the AC on and all was back to normal. I felt like a complete idiot. Needless to say, I wrote that one down in my notebook.

I am simply astounded at the number of hams who see no problem with legislation like this. I guess it might be a good time to post this:

"Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety."
                                                                                                                                               Benjamin Franklin

I use a SignaLink USB and a K1EL Winkeyer USB along with Ham Radio Deluxe and DM780. Using DM780 in Winkey CW mode the FT817 runs in CW mode and so you have full use of the filter as well as being able to operate split mode. I have never found AFSK CW to really be acceptable. I know this is a bit more money, but the Winkey will drive two rigs and generates flawless CW. Just a thought.
73...Pete

Congrats on the first of what I know will become many great, fun contacts. I have run QRP for close to 30 years now and have accumulated around 150 countries and hundreds of non-DX contacts.

As you have found, the antenna makes all the difference. I worked Field Day one year with a Ten-Tec Argonaut on SSB. We put a little Hy-Gain TH3jr on top of an oil derrick (about 160ft up) and all weekend people refused to believe we were only running 5 watts. We didn't need to do the usual QRP hunt and pounce. We had pile ups on us and I don't think we changed frequencies more than once or twice unless we changed bands.

Today I use a very old home built Buddipole and a just-built Buddistick as well as a Par 10-20-40 end fedwire when I'm portable. I use a 135ft OCF Windom and a Hustler 4-BTV modified for 40, 30, 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10 meters. All this with an FT-817 and a new FT-450D turned down to 5 watts.

Get your antenna as good as it can be, good feedline, and some patient operating techniques and the rewards will be worth every moment spent. Welcome to the world of QRP and if I hear you, we'll make it QRP to QRP.
73...Pete