Not sure why you would say "None of them work". Have you tried everyone in existance?

The IOMEGA GUC232A-based USB to Serial adapter works just fine to key CW on several of my PCs, laptops and desktop alike. It also works just fine for the CAT interface too. I run a pair of these adapters for full CAT / PTT (RTTY & Digital) / CW interface on a non-RS232 supplied mobo configuration.

Gene KI6LO

I've kept mine plugged in all day during long cross country drives (upwards of 12-14 hours) and have even left it plugged in to 12VDC power supply in the shack for a couple of days when using it for APRS work and never had any problems. As far as I know, it charges whenever there is 12V at the Ext DC socket but it may only charge when the radio is off. Not sure as I haven't actually tested that fact?

Gene KI6LO

Dave,

Hey, you got a radio you can send me too? I promise to send you some money JUST as soon as I get the radio.

Sorry to poke fun in your way but I agree with the others. I can't believe anyone would send ANYTHING of value to someone you don't know simply on their WORD. Most people's word today is worth exactly what it weighs - NOTHING! Cash before delivery with no chance of chargeback or pull back of funds after delivery. PERIOD!

Sorry but in this instance, I feel your $300 was tuition for a 'hard lesson'. It isn't worth $300 to chase this guy down and he probably knows it that's why he shorted you.

73 and better luck next time,

KI6LO

K2FOX .... Just a note .. FSJ4-50B is 1/2" hardline, not 1/4".

Also I'd be interested in more info on how you are able to use regular PL-259's on 4-50B.

I'm good in QRZ.COM.

Gene KI6LO

K0BG writes "The tip of my HF antenna is just over 16 feet in height..."

Alan,

From my readings when setting up my HF mobileering in the Mitsy car, I remember reading somewhere that the DoT limitation on vehicle height was 13 ft 6 inches maximum. Is my recollection in error or did you really mean to say 16 feet?

I have my setup to reach just under 13 feet 6 inches at 40M which is as low in freq as I dare go when moving due to antenna loading coil flexing on the big full size screwdriver antenna I run.

Gene KI6LO

It seems to me so long as the point of origin of the RF signal being propogated is stated and known, then there is no deception and no advantage (other than not having to be in the remote location should it be non-hospitalible during said contest - like far North in winter, etc.)

So long as there is no additional gateway stations or digi/repeaters in the pathway between the originating location (point of defined RF source i.e the antenna) and any station working originating station, then the "No gateway or digi/repeater shall be used" rule has not been violated. If the contest sponser does not allow remote ops, then they should state so in the rules and give a distance limitation between the originating audio source (SSB), keyboard (digital) or jey/paddle (CW) and the RF originating point (antenna being used).

BTW if one doesn't know what a gateway station or a digipeater is, I would recommend a review of the licensing theory material.

Gene KI6LO

The existing length of ladder line is a tuning stub to match the feedpoint to the 50 ohm coax. I would not add more ladder line as the G5RV is designed with a fixed length of ladder line like you have.

Some folks will argue for and against using a balun at the ladder/coax junction. I have tried it both ways and it works with either. Lou Varney G5RV (who originally designed the antenna) said that he would not recommend using a balun.

Having said all this, my suggestion would be as follows:

1) Get the antenna as high as possible and if it must be sloped towards ends, make sure the ends are not near metal bodies or wires to prevent coupling.

2) Use quality coax from xvcr to ladder/coax junction. Do not use RG-58 or cheap RG-8X mini-foam as this has high losses at any appreciable length. Investing in high quality RG-8 spec coax will payback with more stations being heard and worked. I just bought some 9096-IIA large coax and it appears to be a very good line.

3) Regardless of what you hear, the G5RV was designed to be 102 feet in length, fed in the center with 33 feet of 450 ohm ladder line as a matching section and then fed with 50 ohm coax. Any other design probably should be considered a compromise antenna and should be expected to have lower performance. The original design was ONLY suppose to be resonant on 20M WITHOUT a tuner. Everything else needs a tuner. Also 17M is known to be a hard band for G5RV operations but can be done.

I hear claims that hams say they can work 160M to 6M without a tuner on a half size G5RV. I won't call them a liar but I personally would have to see the analysis to believe it.

Good luck. My dad W5DQ(sk) swore that he would take a G5RV over a beam for basic operating. I know he had good success making over 12,000 QSO's in his lifetime, many on a G5RV and 100W.

Gene KI6LO

A quick update on my earlier comments - I was using version 2.6 or 2.7 when I switched got fed up with the shortcomings and switched to DX Lab Suite.  I was using a PIII 1 Ghz 512Mb 60Gb system and it work perfectly with DX Lab.

I agree everyone should choose their own 'poison'. For myself, since going to DX Lab Suite, I have not had any problems doing exactly what I want to do - even without asking the author. As far as the learning curve, it does require some learning but doesn't require a degree in rocket science to use. If you can operate a modern ham radio transceiver, DX Lab Suite should be no problem. It is no harder to use the AC Log.

To each their own, but I'll take DX Lab Suite, thank you!

Brady,

Not to sound crass, but go online and learn to read and understand coax cable specifications. Not only will you be able to make informed decisions for yourself on this project but for all future ones too. There are many sources for coax and most give specifications for quality cable.

Cost alone is not a valid comparison point for coax usage or quality. Be aware of losses per 100 feet at the desired operating frequency and any special connectors needed to fit. Compare 'apples to apples' when looking at different cables. Once you decide the coax for the job, then shop around for prices. You'll find the prices vary from a few cents to as much as a dollar or more at certain vendors.

Once you find a source of quality cable, you'll probably find yourself going back there time and time again.

As a point of reference, I use Davis RF 'Bury Flex' for a 100 foot run on 20M thru 10M yagi setup. My 6M setup uses Andrew FSJ4-50B 1/2" hardline from shack to top of tower and a short piece of 9913F7 from Andrew to 6M yagi and Bury Flex on shack end to radio. My 2M SSB setup uses Andrew LDF hardline from shack to tower and again short run of quality RG-8 at the ends.

From my experience a ball park cost of most quality RG-8 class coaxs will be 0.70 - 0.90 a foot in quantity. Some vendors are very proud of their products and their prices show it. I would say aviod these except in a last resort.

Good luck in learning about coax. It can be fun and rewarding.

Gene KI6LO

Element flexing in the wind is EXACTLY what causes this. I have the C3S at about 40 foot and mine does the same thing when the winds are whipping up here in the CA High desert. Sometime when the winds are gusting quite abit (usually above 45-50 knots) I don't use the antenna as the SWR will jump up sometimes over 2:1. If it is jumping around alot and I decide to use it, I only work barefoot and leave the amp off. So far no problems but better safe than sorry.

Gene KI6LO

Better late than never for a response.

My suggestion is that you dump AC-Log and get "DX Lab Suite" (Google it to find the website). It runs circles around AC-Log and it's FREE. I used to use AC-Log until I asked the author how to go about getting reports of DXCC counts and was told to "Ah, just export the data and use it in Excel or some other spreadsheet". Huh? What kind of answer was that. Basically he just didn't support any kind of reporting.

I switched to DX Lab Suite the next day and never looked back!!

Do either output NMEA strings via standard RS-232 protocol or are they strictly a USB connectivity port? The TH-D7A and (G) models require serial not USB. Using a mini USB port leads me to think they may not output serial?

gene

If you seriously wanting to monitor the quality of your signal of PSK31, asking someone on the other end of the QSO is a really poor way of doing it. The ability of the receiving person to analyze the signal and give you proper feedback varies greatly from person to person. Many hams believe that if they can copy you, then all is well. Not necessarily so.

You should be monitoring it at the source to ensure it is within limits. To this end, I would recommend you investigate the PSK Meter. I have no interest in the success of this product, but find that it works really well for what it is designed to do.

Check it out at http://www.ssiserver.com/info/pskmeter/

Gene KI6LO

Not sure if it's too late to answer but chack out the PIEXX website (www.piexx.com??). They have a drop in replacement for the combo of the IF-10B board and IF-232 level converter required on the outside of the 940. It is around $90 or so.

Kenwood did a piss poor job of designing the serial interface to their older line of rigs. If you can find the IF-10B board, it will be probably by chance. I watched for one over two years and happened to find one on eBAY a while back. I am using a 3rd party cable wit the IF-10B board and it is flawless.

Gene KI6LO

See my embedded answers with ***

My only question is when you start turning the all-thread to move the coil up and down, what prevents the coil from spinning? Does the tightness of fit with the fingerstock overcome any torsion that is put on the coil from the motor or is there some kind of a slot and pin that keeps it lined up? I didn't see a slot in the plans so I am assuming that it is the first thing. It also looks like I can get just about everything that I need except for the finger stock from home depot.

*** I have the actual W6AAQ SCREWDRIVER antenna. The base tube is made of heavy gauge aluminum irrigation pipe 2" diameter. Since I never have actually tore mine down not sure if the fingerstock is the device which keeps the coilform from turning but don't see anything on the outer face of hte coil form to keep it from rotating but it doesn't. The screw shaft inside has a clutch mechanism that clicks when you hit the end of travel.

--Can the thing be used with 2 meter?

*** Not sure - never tried but it will do 6M ok but not the best 6M antenna.

--Will I be able to tune the thing with a MFJ-259?

*** Yes, I did that to test mine but if you want to tune it all the time with a 259 you will need to rig up a coax switch to go between the antenna and rig/259.

--What resonates? Is it just the whip or is it the whip and the coil, or the whole thing;whip lower tube and coil?

*** The length of the lower base tube (2" dia), the coil and the whip. The coil that is inside the base tube is essentially not there as far as RF is concerned. Simply put it is a shortened center loaded whip antenna.

--If I mount it on my steel mirror bracket, will I need to insulate it or ground the outside tube?  

*** I highly doubt you will have a mirror left very long. The stress on the mirror from the windload on the antenna of this length (especially 20M and lower) will rip it off unless it is one MONDO mirror. As stated by W6AAQ, the base of the antenna is at ground PROVIDING you setup the lower matching coil section correctly. The lower end of base tube is actually turned on a lathe on my model and matching coil is part of the base tube assembly. My tube assembly is at ground with center of coax attached above the matching coil section. If you use the older method of using a toroid for matching, the base will need to be insulated from ground and the feed point will be at the lowest point of the base tube.

--Would anyone have a copy of QST October 1982 and can e-mail me the plans for the tuning unit therein?

*** If you check my website (click on my call for my profile) I have a schematic of the small control box I use. It is based on W6AAQ's design with a little expansion. Not much you can expand on for 12V and a switch

------------
*** My DK3 is a great antenna and works like gangbusters. Usually if I can hear'em, I can work'em. I may not be the loudest signal on the band but I do get very good reports and several times, the other stations are surprised to hear I am mobile. I use the Yaesu FT-100D with it and set the tuning manually using the SWR bar meter on the FT-100D.

Hope this info isn't too late. I just came across this forum posting today.

Gene KI6LO