While silkscreening was used for mass production it is difficult to reproduce.

Radio Daze has some excellent water transfer decals which are easy to use and, when applied with care, are difficult to discern from much of the original slikscreen artwork of the era.

http://www.radiodaze.com/index-alt.htm

I hope you find this link useful.

Howard

I have placed several orders with him for a number of various semiconductors and lamp hardware. He prefers being paid up front with a money order.

My last order had a notation on the bottom of their supplied hard copy invoice that several items were out of stock but would be sent when they were received from their suppliers.

After a number of e-mails, phone calls, and a letter with an attachment of copy of their original invoice I just gave up.  The amount of the merchandise in question was under $10 and I figured it wasn't worth the ongoing hassle if they were not going to respond.

Nine months after I placed the original order the missing parts showed up.  Since then I have not ordered anything else from Ken.

I had good luck with him for quite some time but the last order left me annoyed, so I felt I would take my business elsewhere.

This isn't a dipole but it is of a "bowtie" construction: http://www.i1wqrlinkradio.com/antype/ch10/chiave1834.htm.

The op seems to have had quite a bit of experience in constructing and using it.  I worked him once and his signal was quite good here in Virginia.  While it can be fed with coax cable and  4:1 balun at the upper feedpoint, once working I might be tempted to try open wire feedline just to see how it compared and using it on other bands.

Examining the SWR chart on his web page would indicate a wide bandwidth of use on 75 and 80 M without the need for a tuner.  You could drop him an e-mail to find out other particulars.

My antenna of choice is a delta loop and open wire feedline.  I have a horizontal and an inverted (long side on the top) vertical.  Both fed from remote 4:1 baluns.  Since my Pi design Yaesu FC-102 tuner has a rather narrow impedance range (10 to 250 ohms) I was forced to select the feedline impedance for each that would allow ease of matching.  The vertical loop does well with 450 ohm, but the horizontal seems to prefer 600 ohm.

A few years ago, after putting up a horizontal 160M full wave loop at 50 feet, or so, I got the brilliant idea that  2 wavelength might be better...it wasn't.  And it was outside the matching range of my Yaesu FC-102 (10 to 250 ohms) tuner on 80 and most of 40.  

However, it was great on 20M.  Not sure of the lobe pattern but I worked 6's and 7's with 150 watts on 20M with nary a problem.  Wasn't too shabby into Europe either.

After a few months I took it down and constructed an 80M inverted delta loop and feed it with homebrew 450 ohm feedline from a 4:1 remote current balun.

Sometime, this summer, I will revisit the 160M band but the antenna will be a bit more modest and probably of the inverted delta design favoring E/W.

Currently I have just the two 80M delta loops - one vertical and one horizontal.  The tuner "likes" 450 ohm feedline for the vertical and 600 ohm for the horizontal.

I know of a HAM in western PA (KB3CX) that used a Tempo One, way back in the 70's.  The output was not real clean but we all suffered that malady, more or less, with the gear that was around at that time.  My Yaesu FT-401B, purchased new from Burkhardt's, was a big boat anchor and had many problems related to heat and harmonics.

Bill was happy with the rig and eventually retired it because of power supply problems.

http://www.qsl.net/w5www/qcode.html

And a bit of history:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_code

"Q" code is merely a carry-over from Morse code.  I find it refreshing and nostalgic - I was first licensed in the late 70's when decorum and civility of this noble hobby was the norm, not the exception.

When I returned to my HF activities, a few years ago, I could not believe how much it had changed.  Amateur Radio had become, dare I say without offending, an offshoot of the Citizens Band lingo and operating practices.  When did Amateur Radio "dumb down?"

Perhaps we should leave the "breaker-breaker," and the various derivatives, to our 11 M "wanna-be-a-HAM" brethren.  "Contact" is a polite way to interrupt an in-progress QSO if one does not wish to be more forward and voice their presence by announcing their call sign during a pause in the ongoing QSO.

I have a now-working WWV receiver made by General Standards of Milwaukee, Wisc.  
Date stamp: 3-29-68.  SN 1059.  A foil embossed certification of FCC type acceptance.
Beautiful craftsmanship, lots of point-to-point wiring.  Three circuit boards - one each for 5, 10, and 15 Mhz.  Crystal controlled for each with an IF of Rx Freq + 455 Kc.  
Socketed FET's and battery operated - two metal battery holders for C cells on the rear (4 and 6 each), so it operates on ~+6 VDC ~+9 VDC.  I ran this on a couple of Heathkit power supplies using jumper clips and the operating voltage range before drop-out was very tolerant, as I recall.  I can't find any sort of circuit that would indicate voltage regulation.  Not even a zener or two.  But the battery feature would indicate field use of some sort.

Purchased this from a fellow on eBay who said the 5 Mhz band wasn't working...so I took a shot.  Two of the FET's on the 5 Mhz board went south and I had a devil of a time finding them.

SO-239 and an RCA connector on the rear for antenna input and an analog S meter on the front for signal strength, a selector switch for desired band (1,2,3), ON/OFF/volume control combo and a built in 5X4 speaker.

This was once owned by a company called, "Valley Ind. Comm. (Valley Independent Communications?)

Anyone with info, of any kind, to share?...it would be greatly appreciated.

I concur on the antenna analyzer...an Autek or MFJ.

When putting up my two loops for 80M (one horizontal and one vertical), I had to fine tune the length of wire in each loop.  As I recall, the horizontal loop wasn't too much of a problem, but the vertical inverted delta loop needed about 14 feet additional wire - probably due to the proximity to ground at the bottom of the loop.

I feed both with homemade open wire feedline and a remote 4:1 balun.  After completion of each loop, I inserted the analyzer BEFORE the tuner to ensure a match could be found on each HF band without adjusting the Tune and Load controls to any extreme - my Yaesu FC-102 is a Pi design with a band tapped inductor and has a rather narrow matching range.

A good analyzer is a necessary accessory for antenna building and finds use in constructing 1/4 wave stubs, adjusting amplifier tank circuits (unpowered, of course), and dipole trap fabrication.  And the list goes on.  The MFJ-259 manual is avaliable to view: http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-259B

A battery powered shortwave receiver would help localize the source.  If you turn off the power to your house at the main breaker panel you will be able to determine if the noise is generated in your house or coming from elsewhere

If you have a heat pump it could well be the emergency heater kicking in since it is AC and uses a contactor for control.

Christmas rolls out many plasma TV's which are a wide band noise source.  Maybe a neighbor received one from Santa.

CB isn't dead...it just moved.  Many operate "between the cracks" - below 26.965 and above 27.405

I hear many of 'em between 27.5 and 28 Mhz...and on up into the 10 M band

Then you have the "Power Sellers" like Radio Mart, and others to a lesser extent, that make a habit of misrepresenting the condition of gear and deal on-line with virtual impunity because of their volume and generated revenues to e-Bay.

Take a gander at the number of "10 meter amplifiers" that are bogus cover for CB RF harmonic generators, 11 M crystals and conversions for legitimate HAM transceivers, and openly advertised "sliders" for the freebanders.

One day someone will file an "aid and abet" action against e-Bay.  I just hope I live long enough to witness the backpedaling they do as they pull the wagons in a circle and try to do an Alford plea (somebody did something wrong but it beat the hell outta me who it was).

Some cinder block has a concrete slurry fill.

There have been postings showing favorable results in using 2 sections of RG-8x, in parallel, to replace the ladder line in this sort of situation.  Just keep the spacing correct and use the center conductors as the connection points.

I have a remote 4:1 current balun outside my shack window and feed it with coax, then do the open wire feedline connection at the balun.  Lots easier that the above suggestion but, it too, has its drawbacks - if you are using a tuner with a built in balun to feed the antenna then the first suggestion will work fine.

When weather permits you may wish to use a concrete saw to remove a section of the cinder block and install some thick Lexan on the inside and outside.  This will facilitate future needs (they arise as the antenna farm increases).

For a small footprint radio, I would suggest you consider the Yaesu FT-890.  For something with a bit more power and reasonably easy to repair, the FT-102 and its companion FV-102DM VFO.  Both are vintage, do not have many bells and whistles, but lend themselves well to repair and are easy to use.

The reason for the external VFO is that it is very stable at power on and makes split operation possible - something often necessary for DX, especially on 20M.  The internal VFO in the FT-102 takes some time to stabilize from a cold start

I have both units and would never consider selling either.  I have talked with operators that have owned and sold either, or both units and wished they had them back.

Both radios are fun to use and their ease of operation is a real plus.

OOPS...I left out the call, N1BUST.  Number One Nut Buster...

Charming, but not cryptic.