As with any device, it would be more correct to say that "some" pure sine wave converters are not noise suppressed as well as others.  The same could be said for other methods as well, actually.  

>>I can't seem to get it to hear my code. I tried running a line from the speaker out on the rig to the line in on my pc.
It decodes just fine the incoming signals on air. <<


Sidetone is very often at a much higher amplitude than a received signal.  

Try turning the gain down, also look at the Record Properties volume fader on your computer's soundcard, turning that down can often be a big help.  

Overdriving the audio input can indeed do what you describe.


KE3WD

Or, you can buy a true sine wave invertor.  

I have found that opposing pole magnets have about the general feel of the spring with the added feature that they don't change feel and tension due to climate changes.  Love them for work outside the shack.  

Really though, these are issues that are personal and the only real way to answer them is to get one and use it for awhile.  Then maybe try another type for the same long while.  

The keyer that you don't like now might be one you come to like as your skills progress, too.  At some point you may end up like some of us old CW hands and find that you can send code with any of them pretty well, including straight keys.  It is really a matter of practice with what you have rather than what you have, considering that what you have on hand is usable.  

Whenever I get a new key I make it a point to put all the old friends up on the shelf and force myself to use that new key for awhile before passing judgement either way.  I think a large part of what we like to call "break in" period has to do with our own motor memory and the like.


KE3WD

Lubricant sprays aren't recommended on AC power switches, if the switch is arcing or otherwise not making contact properly, the solution is to replace the switch or if possible, the switch contacts.  Sometimes a cost effective solution is to jump the switch at the rear terminals and connect the amp to an external switching circuit of some kind that can handle the load.  

The spray and the lubricant it leaves behind will typically just turn to carbon when the switch continues to arc at make/break, worst case scenarios, heavy application of such spray can actually catch fire in an AC power switch.  


KE3WD

>>VA Ratings are in the 1000 range thus a couple of these would deliver 960 volts at 2 KVA if the 120 volt windings were series connected and driven with 240 VAC<<

In series connection like this, the VA rating would remain the same as for one transformer.  960 at around 1KVA then.  Series would double the voltage but not the power handling.  Parallel connection would double the VA, give or take a few.  Rethink.  

Control transformers are specifically designed to meet the high inrush industrial applications where electromagnetic components such as relays, solenoids etc. are used.  

I'm not versed in the impact that would have in an amplifier, though.  That info will have to come from someone who is or has experience with it, hopefully one will come along here.  

Be sure that whatever type you specify that it is indeed also an isolation transformer type and not an autoformer type, there may still be some of those lurking around somewhere, dunno.  

Rethink the VA rating thing and see if you can find a pair to re-specify.  


KE3WD

Very good looking homebrew there, Eric.  

If you didn't mention the word paperclip, from that photo I would never know.  


KE3WD

Hacksaw/Bandsaw blade about 2 - 3" long fastened to one post and able to swing back and forth between two posts at the other end.  Screws through the two posts in the front allow for gap adjustment.  

A couple guitar picks on either side of the bandsaw blade makes a great operating handle.  

Burnish through any blueing or paint on the blade where electrical contact must be made.  

Teeth of blade facing down, of course.  

Word of caution concerning thimbles and thumbpicks hooked directly to keying circuit is in order here, with modern solid state rigs, unlikely to be a hazard to humans, with older rigs, some of which keyed using rather high voltages, such setup could prove to be a rather schocking way to have a QSO.  

Even with a solid state rig, there is also a chance of damaging the rig via static charges, etc. if YOU are part of the keying circuit like that.  Some rigs may half key simply from your skin resistance, too, or cause ringing of the characters to happen.  Rethink that one.  


KE3WD

Check the DC voltage at the zener's cathode with a meter.  If it is solid and within the proper voltage range, someone may have back to backed two good diodes or -- bad practice -- tacked a good diode across a bad one in a quick and not so smart repair.  

As for the cherry red tubes, first thing to check is electrolytic filtering in any bias circuit.  AC leakage here can cause that and is common.  Likely the zener is in the bias circuit but haven't looked at the skat before typing this.  Jumping the electrolytic with a known good one is the fast troubleshoot, if things settle down, and the odds are good they will, replace the cap.  

You might want to replace the zener with one that is proper while you are in there.  I would.  

Constant voltage drop across them.

For silicon diodes, Vf = 0.6 V, varying a bit from lot to lot, but two rectifiers from the same lot will be very close indeed, much more precise than using resistors.  

Can't find the schematic quickly right now, but such back to back rectifiers are commonly used in circuits for low level AC overvoltage protection, matching of common mode between two devices, creating a common point that is a constant level above actual ground, which can eliminate common mode noise, things like that.  Not uncommon for them to actually cover more than one of those parameters at the same time and at low cost, too.  

Someone who has been inside the 2500 more than I will likely come along and pinpoint their usage and possible failure modes here exactly.  

You might detail the history of soccer and nontelevised soap operas, both of which predate the advent of radio communications by just a wee bit.  

Or you might just smile knowingly and wave at them...

TS940 doesn't use tubes.  

Solid State Power Amp, with "unobtainium" for driver transistors, if the drivers are shot, board may not be repairable.  

Are you sure that's a '940?

Must be too much lead in their tubes, too...

>>.........Is there any concern for me voltage wise? or am i not in that area of the amp.<<<

There is always a safety concern when working with 120/220 VAC Line Current circuits, as well as the secondary high tension circuits.  

While you only have to be concerned with making sure that the DUT is not connected to the AC mains when working on those primary connections, because there won't be any capacitors that will charge up and keep the AC input side of the transformer at high potential after disconnecting from the mainline, you should still be aware that the secondary side of the circuit may have charged capacitors in there.  Most amplifiers physically separate the two areas and provide a way to get to the 120/220 changeover strip without opening the side that contains the high tension voltages, but it is still paramount to be aware of what you are dealing with here.  

220VAC can be lethal if you make a mistake.  

But don't be unduly afraid here, check things twice, slowly, carefully, good idea to unplug from wall and roll the cable up such that it cannot be inadvertently reconnect until you are ready.  Some wrap a bit of tape over the plug or pigtail end to remind them while the DUT is open on the bench.  

Typewriters make copying faster.  

Handwriting isn't even possible past a certain speed, which McElroy was well past.