When no one is home, other than yourself, turn off the main breaker into the house.  Make sure it's not your own noise.  Otherwise, you need to get a portable radio, preferably a shortwave and noises usually show up on AM best of all.  Start walking around, or even driving around and see what you can come up with. I use my Sangean 606 I think it is, for trouble shooting, usually it's something in my house.  Light controllers are a real menace, furnace, all sorts of stuff.

Just for fun I measured the 3db points (where it shows 3db loss in to out) on the splitter I have, 2 to over 200MHz; the port to port isolation is >30db from 4 to 170MHz and >20db up to 370MHz but by then the in to out loss is gone to who knows where, I didn't measure it.  I'd say that's acceptable for an HF splitter. It could probably be made to work better lower and higher with the right core.

6 meters was open all over the place the other day, I heard stations from ID, NB, lots of the Midwest.

Boy, that's a new one on me.  Thanks for the info.

$5 is pretty good.  I bet mine will do the same as far as response.  They were used in some HF multiplexed receiver splitters.  Don't need no stinkin' caps either.

Being a cheapskate, I put mine in some double sided board.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/DogTi/other/splitter_zps30be8fec.jpg

I found some 1239 Armco Iron 42W integrated heaters for $9 each on the eflea, they both work and I've got them tinned and ready.  They had a bit of corrosion on the threads, but nothing to worry about.  I still need to get a couple of 33 watt irons.  These are not on the chart I had, but couldn't pass them up at that price with free shipping.  I think he's got a bunch if anyone wants some.  I'm not sure what Armco means, they are probably not copper, most likely silver plated iron.

I tend to use these things with a lamp controller to keep the heat down, otherwise they seem to burn up pretty quick.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/DogTi/R390A/ungar1239_zpsf73342e3.jpg

Resistive splitters also have next to nil port to port isolation.  That one I showed will work through HF into VHF, around 30db port to port isolation, and if you choose the right core, it will go into UHF at the loss of HF.  I reverse engineered it from a commercial one I had around, but I was guessing at the core material.  The 75 ohm ones in the old TV antenna preamps are pretty much the same, but I think they use a higher freq core for VHF/UHF.

Yeah, I was going to suggest some RG-8X and some connectors and DIY.  The 8X is very reasonable.

Here's another one, I use it for HF, I think it will work up through the FM band.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/DogTi/other/50ohmsplitter_zps31b586ad.jpg

the cores are Amadon 43-2402. T1 is bifilar, twist a pair of #28 enameled together about 1T/inch.  T2 us just 2 turns-tap-6 turns.  You can mount it on a small vector board and in a Pamona box with BNC connectors on it.  I've used binocular cores I found laying around and it still works.  Good isolation too.

If you turn on the sliders in HRD, the power setting is at the lower right.  I think that's about as easy as it gets.

What are you measuring the PO with?

What are you feeding the output antenna port into?

Are you using the correct antenna port out.

There are too many things you are not telling us.

I'm thinking it's 'static between the earphones', but I can be wrong.  But usually one needs to inspect what is really going on, if everything else is working I doubt if anything is wrong other than operator error.  Like I say, I could be wrong, I'm not trying to be rude.

Good luck.

Yeah, Arcade, the last time I went into DC it took me 2 1/2 hours and that was just going in.  I try to avoid that trip if I can. I'd rather have the PO or UPS do it for me.

Here's what I've been looking for, a chart of 'Heater guide and tip selection' and 'Integral tip selection'. Now all I have to do is find a 1233-S, 1236-S, or a 1239-S.  I'm not sure which one I had but I think it was copper so it must have been the 1233-S.

It looks like the 12 signifies 33W, 5 is 23W, 40 is 45W, and the other numbers seem to be mixed up.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/DogTi/R390A/ungarheatertip_zps1301a5b3.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/DogTi/R390A/ungarintegraltip_zps32dba326.jpg

Actually I was looking for chisel tipped one that looked like the #4036 with the ceramic element, not the long metal element, but the 1233S may be about as close as I can get.  It will most likely work just fine.

Thanks.

Yeah, you need to supply a link to the picture on a server like Photobucket or similar, you can't post pictures on this forum.

w9gb,

Thanks for that info.  It may be that the unit I'm looking for is no longer available.  The #4036 pyramid tip I obtained on ebay from a seller at a good price and it was like brand new and more seem available.  I'm quite happy with it, but the lower wattage one I had previously was not quite as hot and had an integrated chisel tip, not a screw on tip, so it had a large surface like the 4036, but not as large but a flatter surface to use.  The 1233S and 533S appear to be screw on tips, and I find them not as acceptable to the larger items I want to solder since they won't sink as much heat.  They're great for wires and regular items, but when I want to solder the end caps on a Rockwell/Collins filter, they just don't hold a candle to the large tips like the 4036 and the chisel tip I'm looking for.

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse here.  I do appreciate everyone's help.