The one I'm talking about is an integral heating element and tip.  There are no threaded tips to it.  It looks like the one in the pic I linked to except instead of a round tip with a 4 sided pointed tip it has a chisel shaped tip.  No threads involved, all one piece.  I know I'm not dreaming, I had one, I just wish I had gotten the number off it before I threw it out.  But they may not be available any more.

Huh?  I've looked up 4036 and that's all I get is the one shown.  I need the model number for the 33 1/2 watt version.  I can't make head nor tail out of the Ungar numbering system.

I had a 33 1/2 watt ungar iron that had a chisel tip.  It finally gave up the ghost, but I didn't write down the model number.  It looked just like this one, but with a chisel tip.
(http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg287/DogTi/R390A/solderiron_zps914e0186.jpg)
Is there a list of Ungar tips anywhere or does anyone know the number of the one I'm looking for?

I found that 47 watt one on ebay for a good price.

Sure looks like a Hammerlund, I hope you figure out what it is, I'd like to know too.

You can do something much simpler.  No chokes, no ground planes, no ground losses or ground wires.  Look up C-Pole antenna or go here and figure out what is the biggest one you can put up. http://www.svrc.org/wp/?page_id=452
I use an 80M one for 160-10M (granted the top is about 60' up), but it doesn't cover everything, I have a 60M one that covers the rest, it's only about 20' high. A 40M one will only need to be 30' high and may work on 80M depending on your tuner.  My 80M one will tune with my TS-2000 (and the tuner) from 160 through 10 missing a few bands and the 60M one gets the rest.

All it costs is some wire and a ferrite choke that's listed in the link, get a couple. I can work into Europe all the time on 40M with my 80M one, they seem to work even better on the harmonic band.  I don't even need a tuner on 80 and 40, plus with the 60M one it works great on 30M.

All you need is a support for the top, and making the current choke and the antenna, you will need to cut it a bit to make it work right on the freq you want, so make it a bit long.  I put the choke in an outside electrical box from HD for a few bucks.

It's actually a Off Center fed Windom fed vertically.  I love it, and if you paint the PVC spreaders flat black, you can hardly see it.

I'm not kidding, it works great, pm me if you want to talk about it.

Dave

Well, the white and green wire is connected together back at your 'modern' entrance panel, so I'm not sure what can be done about that.  I have an S-38E and I'm not sure how I'm going to hook it up. I'll get there when I get there.

Dave

I've got a Seneca, I remember I had to have it. Used it in Bladensburg, MD for a few years, must have been early 70's, and now it's on the rack. I used it with a small loop antenna. I've got to many other things going on right now, but it probably still works. Kind of reminds me of the Apache, I have one of those too with the SSB adapter, right after the R-390A's, the HX-50, S-38E....and then the wife's garden since it's spring.

Dave
N3DT

I had a 150 that someone stole from me, long story, but it's gone.  I still have the original red "Technical description and Operating Manual" in fairly good shape.  I may part with it for some compensation. It should go to someone with the radio that it belongs to.  I doubt if I'll ever get another.  As I remember, they weren't very good above 15 meters.  Poor image rejection.  But it was my RX for years and worked fine.  I think I even put a hot tube in the front end which did help, but not the images.  The Q-multiplier was outstanding.

Can't help you with your questions though.

I would say he needs a peak reading meter.  Or test it in CW or FM if it goes there. If it's good there, it's probably good.

I can't help you, but I'll be watching this. I have an HX-50 I got a long time ago, did mess with it a bit, but it's got a few bad crystals in it and needs a good going over.  It's waiting for me to finish with my 2 R-390A's. I need the band change knob for it if you know a source.

Did you get your neutralization done? I have a DX-40 with the instructions for that if it would help.  I've heard a 6146 will work in them too with re-wiring of course.  The power supply will probably not handle the full power though. I think they only put out about 30 watts, or was that input?

I finally found the solution to my problem.  If I go into the Recording Control on my XP, under the Analog Mix is an 'advanced' button, and in there is a check box to 'Record without Monitoring'.  That did it.

I inserted 455 into the last 2 IF amps grids and no drifting issues.  Into grid of 2nd IF amp and there the trouble starts.  Found some bad solder joints in the filter area (between 1st and 2nd IF amp), cleaned that up and it's better, but it still looses sens after a while but comes back up in a while.  Guess I'll have to start replacing things, it appears to be in the grid circuit of V502.  It's almost like the grid of V502 is loosing it's grid leak, but that's the filters into the AGC line which is not used in MGC.  Dunno yet but I feel I'm getting closer.  It may be one of the bypass caps in that area.

I've got tube extenders with taps on the top.  I made a DC block for the R2005 Service Monitor with a 1KV .01uF ceramic.  The way I'd approach it is to send the signal to the grid of V503, that would likely cut out 1/2 of the amp sections right away, then half the bad side, etc. It probably wouldn't take long there's only 4 amps, but like I say, it takes a while for it to cool off and start over again.  Fan would help.  I've been messing with other things, but I need to get back on it.  It would be nice to know exactly what it is instead of shotgunning the thing.  I'll get it as long as the weather doesn't get too good and I need to go outside.

I haven't found any out of spec resistors yet. I was thinking C551 may be the culprit, but it's grounded out of the circuit in MGC.  I got a bunch of metalized caps, but I'm thinking I may just go with ceramic for bypass and coupling.  I did use the Orange Drops in the filter coupling caps to avoid the dc on the filters problem.  I put the OD everywhere in one of the IF modules and now it's so crowded I can't work in there.  Yeah, I'm looking at a Z503 at Fair Radio for $16.  I could use some chokes for the PS (AF module) in one too, but I'm checking out some Hammond chokes, they are reasonably priced and they may even fit in the old cans.  I pulled apart L601 yesterday and the thing was burned up, reading about 40 ohms.  I'm talking with the guys at the R390 forum too.

Yeah, I've got the Navships book.  I have a Motorola Service monitor, so it's calibrated in dbm and uV too. All 50 ohm.  The book says to feed 150uV into the IF section and set up the gain for -7VDC on the diode load which is what I start with.  I've got new caps and some other stuff coming and hopefully this will fix it.  Other than that, the whole rx is working pretty good, when the gain is right I've got sub 1uV sensitivity.  I've got another IF strip that is good on the 8 and 16KHz filters, the rest are bad but it's a good check, plus the other strip has a bad AGC detector plate load Z so there's no AGC action on that one.  Working on that too.