Mine thought the quad that went in the storm looked better than the TH5 that replaced it. Someday maybe I will go back to a quad, but winters on the plains can be harsh on them.

Jim

Try this one:

http://www.somis.org/add-160m.html

This is supposed to be THE conversion.

Jim

"There are very few materials that qualify under that term i.e. gold,silver,mercury ,copper, and yes aluminum and possibly a few more. If your tower was made of 100% steel it would NOT radiate."

I know this won't fit your criteria of this latest rant, and I come to this debate late. But I have used plain cold rolled steel as an antenna & it radiated just fine. Anything that conducts can radiate.

And BTW, the folks in white coats can help those with your condition.

Jim

Rob, I am not sure what you are trying to describe. Do you mean to mount this as a vertical dipole? If that is what you want to do, you would probably have to use some guys to keep it up. Also the feedline would have to run away from the feedpoint at right angles for 8 feet or so to keep from distorting the pattern too much. The feedpoint would have to be made from something strong enough to support the top element too.

If you meant to use it as a horizontal dipole, then also that would work fine too. Again the strength of the feedpoint would have to support the antenna if it would be center mounted. If this was mounted 15 feet or up, it would have some directional component to it allowing you to peak some signals while nulling others.

However, now is not a good time of the sunspot cycle to be listening for the 10 meter DX beacons. Check back in a couple of years if you want to work DX on 10.

Jim

Between the 2 I think you would find the 1795 to be a more efficient antenna. But that would depend upon the radial system under it. Neither of these antennas will work without a radial system under them. If mounted on a roof or other elevated mount at least 4 resonant radials per band. If ground mounted as many radials as possible, as long as possible.

Jim

I reccommend the rotor doc's plug kit for the rotator wiring. Have them on all my rotators. Really makes rotator work easy. Also I use studs with jam nuts on the rotator case, then you just set the rotator on the shelf and put the washers & nuts on the bottom. Much easier. And with a crankup tower you cannot tape the coax to the tower legs and still crank the tower up & down. Use some kind of stand off to keep them away from the tower. The tower manufacturers offer arms for this.
Jim

Google is an interesting thing. Jim, do suppose that PJ2T miscoppied someone else's call in both the 2001 IARU contest where he made this entry:

QSO: 21000 PH 2001-07-14 1838 PJ2T          59  11     KG4JVI        59  8  

Where he says he worked you on 15 meter phone and also in the 2004 CQWWSSB contest where he made this entry:

QSO: 14258 PH 2004-10-31 0822 PJ2T           59      9 KG4JVI         59      5

Where he says he worked you on 20 meters? I guess it could happen. In fact that is probably what it was right?

For the record. UP YOURS

Where did I belittle your license class. You did that all by yourself. You just posted a stupid question, so I thought I would try to help. Next time I won't.

FCC says Technician. What are you doing on 20 meters? Hope you have a different control op there or are a VERY recent upgrade. I would lose the amp. That thing is just asking for trouble. How does your audio sound at 100 watts without the amp? Do you have the same problem when transmitting into your dummy load? Also do NOT connect the grounds in the mike cable if the schematic in the manual shows them as seperate. Usually there is a bypass cap the first component in the rig after the mike jack (often right on the mike jack). Check that out first if you have RF on your audio at 100 watts.

Jim

I just downloaded a complete one at the URL:

http://www.hy-gain.com/man/pdf/TH-5MK2.pdf

Looks just like the one that came with my antenna.

Jim

I can only speak for the TH5. I have had mine for about 15 years and it has been a good antenna. Not really much more gain than a TH3, but more bandwidth. Not a problem to hop back & forth between CW & phone. Also it is a heavier & larger antenna so you need heavier rotator & tower/mast. Mine is currently down for tower upgrade and switch from original BN86 to a BN4000 as I do a lot of RTTY and the BN86 does not have a good reputation for QRO RTTY. And if fact it looks a little cooked after all these years. I have never run more than a KW through it on phone or 500W on RTTY and the balum did not fail but I am looking to the future and I have the antenna down, so I am taking the oportunity to upgrade. Before it goes back up I will take the time to apply some good tape to hold the trap caps in place because over the years several have worked loose. All in all a good solid antenna. The SWR curves have not vadied from new till now so it seems to have really held up over time.

Hope this helps.
Jim

You might want to check out the TIB from Downeast Microwave. Here is a link that talks about transverter interfcing on their site.

http://www.downeastmicrowave.com/Inter.htm

The TIB splits the Tx & Rx and uses the ALC to control the output of the transceiver.

Jim

Guess I have to give you a longer reply to get noticed.

The 570 has 2 seperate audio circuits, as you know. It also has 2 seperate PTT circuits. One for the front panel mike jack (which is paralleled with pin 13 on the back) and one for the back panel audio. This is pin 9. Pin 13 PTT runs the audio from the mike jack, pin 9 runs the audo from the ACC jack. RTFM

Now you can go play hi-fi.

Jim

Try using pin 9 for PTT. Pin 13 is PTT for the front panel mike jack.

Jim

Your problem with the 17 meter stub might be the bend in the top. The stubs are not radiating elements themselves, but act to isolate sections of the tower to make it resonate at the freq of operation, so the spacing of the stubs is important.

BTW, I sure would be interested in a copy of that pdf file. I use a Hy-Tower here too.

Jim