The D-104 came in several models–I used what is commonly called the "lollipop" mic. It is internally amplified, and is powered by a 9-volt battery. The Yaesu 101E expects to see a 50 kilohm input, with the mic element between pins 1 and 2, and the push-to-talk switch wired between pins 1 and 3. Pin 4 is not used.

I, too, had good results with an Astatic D104 with mine.

There will always be loopholes, but I think your government wants to insure that beginners don't build transmitters that radiate less than desirable signals. Chances are, if you see it advertised, then it's "commercially available," and if it specifies that it meets current FCC or other communication standards for transmitters, then at least the prototypes have been "professionally" tested.  But that does bring up an interesting question, does Canada license "professional" amateurs now?

It probably depends somewhat on what rotor you plan to use with the antenna; that is, manufacturers will design their rotors to handle specified loads. The manufacturer's specifications should be able to provide the information you are seeking. Thrust bearings are not all that expensive, and should probably be installed with the first antenna, because many hams tend to eventually replace that first antennas with something bigger and heavier.

I've learned to never trust color codes on anything other than resistors and chokes. It would make sense if the pin 4 wire were yellow and pin 5 were green, but that's not the case with my plug; 4 is orange and 5 is black. It's best to use an ohmmeter or continuity checker to confirm what colors are used on your particular plug, just to be safe.

Does that mean your computer doesn't have a DB9 or DB25 socket? Assuming it does, one of the simple interfaces at http://www.qsl.net/wm2u/cw.html will key the rig for you. Just a transistor, a couple of diodes and resistors, and a DB9 plug from an old mouse (I got mine at the thrift store for 25¢).

You might also want to check out the February issue of Nuts and Volts magazine for the article "A Low Cost RF Impedance Analyzer" by George R. Steber. It includes a very simple circuit and all the math you need, and even a computer program to analyze the values. You might check www.nutsvolts.com to see if it's there.

You might also want to do a search for the "three voltmeter method," which is what Steber's article is based on. I believe I also saw the method in an old issue of Sprat, the G-QRP Club quarterly.

Then, too, check with local hams or clubs to see if one of them will loan you an analyzer. It makes things so much simpler.

FYI, Stew

Go the FCC web site at www.fcc.gov/cgb/consumerfacts/interference.html and scroll down to the electrical interference section. Right beneath it is information on how to file complaints. FCC encourages the utility companies to resolve interference problems, issuing hefty fines if they don't, and the companies know this.

Yes, much power is lost in getting from the fuel to the user. Just consider the power lost to heat and EM radiation in the power lines and inefficiencies in transformers alone. The user always pays for it, one way or another.

Kelly, that is a GREAT solution to Roy's problem. Thanks.

Generally, a 0.1 charge rate is used in most recharging processes. E.g., a discharged 800 mA NiCd battery is recharged with 80 mA for about 16 hours. Over-charging will overheat the battery and may shorten its life. However, keeping the battery on a 0.025 trickle charge rate indefinitely (20 mA in the example of the 800 mA battery) is considered to be relatively safe method to keep batteries topped off without significantly shortening their useful life.

I use an older version of DigiPan, which has the owner's manual located under the Help menu as a file called Help Topics. It should tell you all you need to know. In it, I set up macros by going to the Configure menu and scrolling down to the "Fn macros" tab. From there I can edit and save the Call, CQ, BTU, etc. fields. I can also create additional macros under the Configure menu's "Cntl macros" tab. The latest version of DigiPan shouldn't be much different.

Check on galvanized fence rail. Our local Lowes has swagged sections as long as 10' and 20' each, in 1 5/8" diameter, all in the under-$20 price range. Radio Shack should have wall mounts, eave mounts, chimney mounts, tripod roof mounts, telescoping masts and 5- and 10-foot 1 1/4" steel mast sections.

Shielded parallel lines have been used from time to time, primarily where nearby metallic structures could unbalance ordinary unshielded lines. Typically the shields are connected together at both ends, but grounded only at the transmitter end. Impedance is twice the single coax impedance (e.g. 100 ohms for your paired RG58), and losses are said to be higher than unshielded parallel lines, but noise pick-up is greatly reduced. If length is critical, e.g. for making a quarter-wave matching sections, you'd have to test for velocity factor, but that is relatively easy. Since the line is balanced, you might want to use a balanced tuner or a balun.

FYI, Stew

The idea behind grounding the antenna is not so much to protect the equipment from a lightning strike, but to prevent the strike in the first place. Somewhere floating around the Internet is an AP news story from six years ago titled "Researchers find that blunt lightning rods work best," which states that lightning is drawn to blunt rods more frequently than to Franklin's sharp rods. The fact is, Franklin knew what he was doing; he used sharp-tipped rods to prevent lightning strikes, not attract them.

Assuming you have a wire antenna, or an antenna with reasonably sharp edges on it, grounding will enable the antenna to slowly dissipate ground charges into the atmosphere, reducing the overall likelihood of a lightning strike. Leaving it ungrounded may encourage a feeder strike to occur, and take the shortcut through the wiring, resulting in a full-fledged high-current strike. And like a transformer, a high-current surge outside the house will induce currents inside, wherever there are unshielded conductors, i.e. on the power lines to your radio, phone, TV, etc.

I hope this helps. FYI, Stew

I'm not familiar with the IC-3200A, but if it has an internal lithium memory battery that's dead, that could be the problem.