I’ve not had any of the white lines show up, but a couple of my OLED’s had dimmed considerably, so I obtained 2 replacement ones and installed them myself this afternoon. (Sent Yaesu a photo of the radio and they shipped me free gratis, out of warrantee, 2 new OLED units. Radio is over 2 years old, and I still grin everytime I turn it on. If you've avoided the radio because of this cosmetic issue, you're missing the rig of your lifetime.)
The replacement went smoothly, and I thought I’d add a few comments to those I’ve already seen. (Someone, whose message I must have deleted wrote a similar message which you’ve probably already read, so I’ll just try to bring up some points that I don’t recall seeing in his report.)
The "guide" that I used was the set of instructions written by SP1NY and SP1FJZ, available online at http://www.jvgavila.com/ftdx5000_oled.htm
. I printed the instructions, and they worked very well.
As a "safety measure" I took photographs of the affected areas before and after each step, so if there was any confusion as to "what goes where" on re-construction, I’d have a photo to make the comparison.
!!!!!DISCLAIMER!!!!! Judge for yourself if you can do this sort of work on your expensive toy. I’m an old coot, maybe a touch shaky, but with normal physical dexterity. I never felt over-my-head at all, but again, judge your own comfort level.
The first task of removing the nuts from the rotary controls is much easier with a nut-driver or socket. Unfortunately the cavity in which they live has a diameter too small to insert a "stock" nutdriver. I solved the problem by sacrificing a deep-socket (1/4" drive”) 11mm socket. On a bench grinder I first flattened the end of the socket, then ground the exterior (back about a half inch from the tip) until it was a diameter small enough to enter the cavity. There was still enough metal remaining that the strength was not compromised for this task.
Although it’s well shown in the document, a note here anyway...... You do NOT remove the nuts from every rotary control on the radio, only the 9 controls on the lower left front panel, plus the ring on the MIC connector. DO NOT remove the nut on the main VFO knob, or the three knobs to the right of center.
When you remove the main VFO knob, there is a stack of friction clutch parts on the shaft --- in order to keep them in the correct sequence I inserted them over a screwdriver shaft and laid them aside so their order was preserved for re-assembly.
You’ll need to keep track of which type of screw is used at various stages of the disassembly. I used my XYL’s muffin tin and placed the hardware from each step in a separate cavity in the order of the steps.
The instructions have you "hinge" the front panel forward to work on the interior of the panel. This is a good method, but at the latter stages of disassembly there are a couple of screws and a couple of connectors that are very awkward to reach. At the point I removed the two "hinge screws" to get at those items.
I was a little apprehensive about disconnecting/re-connecting the fragile ribbon cables, but all went well. Just be gentle, using fingers (not pliers), and take your time.
The new OLEDs have a protective film on the front. Leave this in place until you start the assembly process, then just peel them off by lifting at the orange tab.
Rebuilding was just a matter of going "backwards" through the directions, and went without incident. Because the screws are small, and sometimes in awkward places, a small tweezers is handy to hold them in place while you start turning them. Replacing the front panel over all the controls at first looked like a shaft alignment challenge, but turned out to be easy. All of the shaft controls are on two "floating" pc sub-boards which are eventually secured in place by the shaft hardware. These sub-boards have enough slack in the wiring to be withdrawn behind the front panel, then simply inserted into place after the front panel is secured to the panel behind it.
The captive hardware for the mic connector should be installed before closing the front panel, as the connector is on a small floating PCB. Holding this PCB in place from behind with a finger makes it easier to screw on the ring nut which holds it in place.
Replacing the shaft nuts and all the various knobs is easier accomplished if the front panel assembly is secured in the normal position.
Before I put the skins back on the radio (lots of screws!) I checked the function of all controls. It worked with no need to "go back and find any sins of omission".
The entire evolution took maybe 3 hours, including fabrication of the nut-driver-socket, with several breaks to review the instructions and photograph what stage I was at. Next time (I hope not) it will probably take no more than an hour. If you have average dexterity and vision, you should be able to accomplish this swap without a problem. Just take your time and be deliberate in checking your work. No soldering or other risky behavior is needed.
On power up, everything worked as before and I have bright crisp new OLED displays.
We've heard the question as to whether the new OLEDs are different manufacturer or whatever. The markings don’t give me any clue, but maybe some industry insider can decode them. There are three lines of characters on the back of the OLED....
Here is the info from the OLD ones:
The new ones have the same 1st and 3rd lines, but the middle line reads:
I don't know if that's a date code, rev level, or what.
73, de Hans, K0HB
"Just a boy and his radio"
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