I purchased the RF Industries kit that was described by K6AER in the article on crimped connectors here on eHam. 
At the time, I purchased the Crimp kit and the Times Microwave stripper/prep tool for LMR400, as well as the Times
LMR400 crimp connectors.  This may not be the cheapest soltuion, but from the first connector I used all were very
good connections and in three years of use, no a one has failed.  This is not a statistically significant sample, but for
me, I have found a very workable solution.  For the record, I have no affiliation with either Times or RF Industries other
than being a satisfied customer.

Here is a link to Mike's article : http://www.eham.net/articles/19257

73,

Art
K0ACP

Folks,

I am in the process of getting ready to install a low profile / stealthy antenna.
Beggars can not be choosers, but I'd like to have it all, 160 - 6m I realize that
this unit is only rated for 80 - 10, and that would be a very good compromise from
my perspective.  As I look to my options and contemplate alternatives, this solution
from DX Engineering appears to be a real front runner - albeit an expensive alternative.

Here are some questions for the group:
1) overall experience with this package -- the reviews section only has two and
there seem to be a universal concern with the MFJ autotuner.

2) I assume a current choke would be wise / necessary, if so, recommendations,
type 31 beads or perhaps an in line current choke?

3) recommendations for lightning protection.  I live in MI so we do have some
Thunder boomers.  I am planning on protection between unit and my radio, something
like the old ICE arrestors; however, I was wondering about putting something on the long
wire as a front end to the tuner?

4) Oh yes, what other alternatives might the group suggest ... Oh boy that is a wide-open question.

Thanks to all in advance for your thoughts and comments ...

73,

Art
K0ACP

Jerry,

Good points.  Based on feedback from this and the Elmer's forum here on Eham, plus some other reading.  I've decided that I'll go with a DX Engineering grounding enclosure package.  I intend to mount it to a metal pipe that is just outside of my home -- don't like nailing things to the side of the home, plus, I like the idea of having additional air gap between SPG and house!

The DX Engineering kit includes instructions / ideas for mounting to an independent pole/mast.

73,

Art
K0ACP

Thank you for the advice.  My intent is to use the DX Engineering polymer enclosure with the AL ground plate and attach it to a set of 2 - 3 ground rods sunk in my yard and tie it all together with a copper wire / strap.  

I am looking into what it takes to cadweld, but would prefer not to have to buy a bunch of equipment for what may be a single, but really cool pyrotechnic project :-).

Yes, I plan on tying it to my house ground.

73,

Art
K0ACP

OK folks, it is spring and the T-storms are in the air. It is time to get serious about one of our favorite topics, gounding. I am doing some infrastructure work for both home and ham shack and installing an external SPG at the point of coax entry into my home. I believe that I have sufficient plans on how to connect it to a couple of copper grounding rods and plan on using Polyphaser lightning arrestors to protect rig from lightning strikes to antennas.

My question is the following:

Is there significant benefit to using a copper sheet over an aluminum sheet to mount the arrestors on? Both sheets would be mounted within weatherproof enclosures that would be hung on the side of my house.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

73,

Art
K0ACP

OK folks, it is spring and the T-storms are in the air. It is time to get serious about one of our favorite topics, gounding.  I am doing some infrastructure work for both home and ham shack and installing an external SPG at the point of coax entry into my home. I believe that I have sufficient plans on how to connect it to a couple of copper grounding rods and plan on using Polyphaser lightning arrestors to protect rig from lightning strikes to antennas.

My question is the following:

Is there significant benefit to using a copper sheet over an aluminum sheet to mount the arrestors on?  Both sheets would be mounted within weatherproof enclosures that would be hung on the side of my house.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

73,

Art
K0ACP

As a February 1960 vintage, here is to a good year!

73,

Art
K0ACP

I picked up my first Russia contact the other evening as a grayline over the pole, strait from IA to Novi Siebersk!  As a new ham, have no other experience to compare, but am waiting for some spots.......

73,

Art
K0ACP

I am on my third time learning cw, 1st Boy Scouts, 2nd Novice in '83, and now just for fun.  I have invested more time on this attempt and actually enjoy the experience.  I am still having trouble but am having loads of fun.  Part of the enjoyment is having to work for it!

Thanks for the post.

--... ...--

Art
K0ACP

I have one of the Jackite poles on my deck and used it for ~2months very successfully as a temporary support for a G5RV.  The section 2nd from the end broke one day, turned out to help.  I could now drop the end section into the 3rd section as part of setup-takedown with only minimal loss in antenna height.

With this setup, I was able to raise and lower antenna in under 2 minutes.  I have since replaced the Jackite with one of the surplus aluminum masts.  The mast gets the antenna higher - and works better, but also has a higher profile.

Hope this helps.

73,


Art
K0ACP

Personal experience with the G5RV is that it works well.  With a modest installation (15' off the top of a deck, I worked all 50 states on 80SSB @ 100W within 90 days -- just working evenings. It is not a perfect antenna, but does well on multiple bands.  I have since raised the G5 up on a 32' mast and have noticed significant improvement.  

Hope this helps & good luck.

73

Art
K0ACP

I too run a MacBook Pro w/Leopard (Intel generation).

I am a new Mac convert, as well as a newly (re)licensed Ham.

I run MacLoggerDX for logging, I dabble with MacDoppler for satellite tracking.  I have had zero success with cocamodem -- likely user error.

I also run parallels and winXP in coherence mode -- windows apps run on the leopard desktop.  For psk, I do digipan and rtty is mtty.

When I get some spare time, I'll tinker with cocaModem and hopefully overcome the pilot error.

I am connecting to my radio (iCom746Pro) via a Rigblaster p'n'p.

73

Art
K0ACP

You might want to check to see that you are configured to use the correct communications port.  I had a similar problem with digipan.  In the system configuration application, check your ports.  This will tell you which port the Rigblaster has been assigned to by Windows.  Then update your software to use that port.

Hope this helps!

73,

Art
K0ACP

Mark,

I too echo your story.  I got my license last December and wanted to become proficient in cw.  I tried the morse senders and find that justlearnmorsecode works best for me for practice.  I also invested in the Codequick cd's.  

This is the third time that I've learned cw, first Boy Scouts -- 35 years ago, second to get a novice ticket 25 years ago and now to use.  I have found that the combo of codequick cd with justlearnmorsecode got me on the air at a conversant rate within 10 days.  

For sending, I use a Vibroplex code warrior jr connected to the internal keyer of my iCom 746Pro.

hope to chat with you in cw on the air.

73,

Art
K0ACP

Charles,

One approach is to limit the bandwidth of signal going to the radio.  

In my case, I am using an Icom746Pro.  When I put the radio in USB mode, I can choose between three default bandwidths using my bandpass filters -- though the adjustable DSP allows almost infinite variations.  I would suspect that you could make a similar adjustment to whatever bandwidth you are looking to use.

73,

Art
K0ACP