Thought about what R1, R2, and R3 does some more.  Took a look at what had to die to make more current flow through R1.  Lifted Q3.  Tested bad.  Bingo. 

Rich

Yes.  R1, R2, and R3 are used to balance the base of Q2, Q3, and Q4.

I felt that Q4 was the culprit, hence the reason that I lifted the emitter and base to test it.  R1 was right next to it and at first I thought Q4 was bad because it got hot quickly.  I believe most transistors of this type fail 'shorted'.  However, upon closer inspection it was just R1 heating it up.  When it tested good.. I am stuck.  Amplifiers are not my forte so troubleshooting this type of equipment is difficult for me.

If you believe you know the transistor or part that is the likely candidate I would appreciate the input. 

AD7C
Rich

I was given a TPL 2M 5-8w in 120w out FM amp.  TPL PA3-1AE-2.  The amp had a bad COR sense circuit.  The 2n2222 transistor was dead so I replaced it.  Schematic here: http://www.ad7c.com/schematics/tpl_hi-b.pdf

New Issue: 5 watts in, the amp keys, and I get about 6 watts out.

I have checked through the amp for obviously blown components but I can see nothing.  What I can notice is that when the amp is keyed there are two 10ohm 1/2w resistors near the final stage that instantly heat up and one is turning dark (burning).  Not burnt yet as I don't key down for long (3-4 seconds)... but obviously a sign of an issue.

In the schematic (page marked -25-) the resistors in question are R1 and R3.  R1 is getting a lot hotter than R3.  Anybody have any ideas?  I have lifted the base and collector from Q4 and the transistor tests OK.  I wanted to post this before I start going through all the other transistors as removing them from the circuit is a pain. 

73,

Rich
AD7C

I know about a superheterodyne but it just didn't hit me for some reason.  Thanks.  Yes, after doing some research on the CB it uses a 455khz IF on the receive and hence why the TX and RX are separated in frequency by 455khz (RX being low side injection). Just seems like such an odd way of doing things.  Figured they would just as the same crystal to TX/RX as a cost savings and/or for simplicity.

Rich
AD7C

I have some old CB radio's that fell into my possession. Junk but fun to tear apart.  Now... I understand about frequency mixing and how most CB's used to work but for some reason I can't wrap my headaround this one.
 
Why did it take 2 crystals, one for TX and one for RX, to make these old things work on just 1 channel?  I'm not sure why the RX crystal was at a lower frequency.  Can someone simple explain this as I feel I am trying to hard on what I assume is a simple explanation.

73,

Rich
ad7c

"The Best" what?  Best Receive... Best Transmit... Best Lasting.... Best portable, etc. etc.  Please remember it's an HT and not matter what it will be compromise.

I can recommend a good performing and long lasting HT antenna: DIAMOND RH-77CA  It will outperform stock and other after-market antennas.  Diamond also makes a full-size telescopic antenna that gives you about the best performance you can from an HT without moving to an external "mobile" type antenna, however... it's big, bulky, and not pedestrian (walking) friendly.  DIAMOND RH-789

73,

Rich
AD7C

Not true.

 

Rich
AD7C

Have been running the S9 31' for some time now.  In my HOA restricted lot is has been a lifesaver. 

http://www.visokey.com/ad7c/antenna.php

My radial field is somewhat a 'crushed egg' shape.  Not round due to the proximity to the cinder block wall.  No where near the 'perfect radial field' you hear people talking about.  It's not a beam but it does work.  My log shows it.

As to your question... I even ran it, for a time, with just 2 radials and one 8' ground rod at the base. I noticed that it favored the directions of the radials.  Did adding my current full-radials make a HUGE difference over just 2 and the rod? Not really.  It did make a difference but I can't really quantify an amount.

My suggestion... go for it.  You'll get a thousand suggestions that it will work OK and another thousand saying it won't.  Until YOU TRY IT YOURSELF... you'll never know.

Good Luck.

73,

AD7C

I have used HRO exclusively for the past 3 years and have never once had an issue.  I don't expect them to give me incredible discounts because I bought something from them at sometime in the past for some meager amount of money, make my dipole work like a beam because the manufacturer claims it does, bust through DX pileups on the 1st call, buy back my old equipment for more than I paid for it, or other assorted ham miracles. 

I only ask that they provide me with a good price and good service for the products I want.  They do. 

Rich
AD7C

I'll answer your questions as everyone seems to have avoided doing so.

There are  a lot of manufacturers who make a G5RV.  The "REAL" G5RV is approx 102' from end to end with 31' of ladder line (feed line).  You need to use about 70' of coax cable to attach your transceiver to the end of the ladder line.  Most manufactures place a SO-239 connector at the end of the ladder line for you to do so.  The antenna should be about 30' in the air and as flat as possible.  The ladder line should run straight down.   Think big "T".  All this is required to make the antenna work in the way it was designed.

You will see different versions of this antenna everywhere.  If the dimension are not close to the above then it is a 'type' of G5RV and not the original design. Nothing wrong with them, just not really a true G5RV.  Things like G5RV mini, G5RV junior, etc.

Can you make your own G5RV? Yes.  Should you? Depends.  The cost of making your own and the cost of some manufactures pre-built versions are so close there is little argument to making your own... unless you really want to learn how.  I suggest buying your 1st then making your 2nd, 3rd, or hybrid version yourself.

Does the original G5RV need a choke and/or balun  I say NO.  The original designer also said NO. Experiment with and without one and see what happens IN YOUR CASE.  That's the best answer. Just use the 'loop of coax' method for a balun.   Cheap and easy.

Does the G5RV work? Yes.  Does it work well? Depends. Any antenna is better than no antenna.  If you install it the way it was designed (or the way the manufacturer intended) then you'll make contacts.  It's definitely not the greatest and not the worst.  You'll hear tales of amazing DX about the G5RV nd others lament that it couldn't talk down the street.  My recommendation is "TRY IT".  I have talked to numerous people and hundreds of DX stations on antennas that many said would never, ever, ever work. That's the fun of Ham Radio.  Experiment and try for yourself.

Beware!  Although the G5RV can work o 10-80m... it most likely will need an antenna tuner to work correctly.  If you install it just right (as mentioned in my 1st paragraph) then you may get a good match on most of the bands.

As some other mentioned.  A simple, single band dipole is always a good option for a 1st antenna.  Simple, cheap, and almost always a performer if done right.  That would be my 1st antenna to try. 

73,

Rich
AD7C

www.newsuperantenna.com

Also stocked by HRO and I think AES.

73,

Rich
AD7C

Best to ask your question in the Yahoo Groups Forum for the TS-590.  You'll get an instant response.  It has been a topic of discussion there already.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KenwoodTS-590/message/6587

Join here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KenwoodTS-590/

73,

Rich
AD7C

Wonder why you think HRO is horrible?  I find the site easy to navigate.

73,

Rich
AD7C

There are many exhaustive posts on this topic on this forum.  Just do a search.

The main answer: Amplifiers are not FCC certified and most do not have a filtered output.  Running them right out of the box would not be wise, however, with some filtering they can be made to work OK.

Rich
KE7SAK

It's very common to hear this on the OMISS net (http://www.omiss.net) and other various nets on HF.  You are hearing an operator give a signal report, from the standard RST scale, to another op in the the hope they hear them.  The validity or honesty of the report is open to discussion.

The main purpose of what you are hearing is an operator (or operators) trying to make contact via the bare minimum required to verify a QSO.  Most are trying to get WAS or other awards and rely on these nets to help fill-in-the-blanks for grids, states, etc. that they need to work. 

Goes something like this.

I would check-in to the net.
Upon my turn. NET CONTROL would ask me for if I am looking for any state or grid.
As an example, I'll say "looking for Idaho"
NET CONTROL will ask if anyone from Idaho is on the net.
If someone from Idaho responds then NET CONTROL asks us to give it a try.
I would say "22, 22, 22, 22, bang bang, 22," or whatever I wanted until I felt content.
Net control would ask if the other party heard my numbers and to verify them.
The Idaho station would respond and say my numbers. 
If correct, we reverse direction...do the same thing.  If we both copy each others numbers or phrase.... we have a valid QSO.


73,

Rich
KE7SAK