Just my 2 cents. Guns dont work well for 259s. A nice soldering station (quality unit with interchangeable tips). I've used a Weller (25+ yrs) and have done everything from mil-spec soldering, SMount to hamboneing PCB's  Mouser sells em, I suggest the nicest one you can afford. I have a digital temp display unit that ended up costing me 30 bucks. I got a unit here from work (Lab unit) that was going to be pitched and replaced the controller board. GREAT unit.  Some ususally are available on e-bay. Call Cooper tools before you buy an inop one and make sure the parts are available.  Hope this helps.
73  Dave   http://www.mouser.com/catalog/624/1605.pdf

I would say you have a dirty relay in the 430. Try connecting to a dummy load and switching up and down band. That sometimes cleans up the realy and will give you a starting point.  Good luck.
73  Dave

Mendlesons Surplus in Dayton, Ohio also has them, lots, all flavors.

73, Dave

I have a 430S as well. As the other gent stated, the fan wont turn on untill the temp gets up there.

The freq drop sounds like a PLL unlock issue, not uncommon with the 430 and 440 rigs. Not too big a deal to fix. You can look it up on mods DK or maybe contact Bill KOZL at coorsbill@yahoo(dot)com, hes the master on fixing these things always will help a fello out. Let me know if I can help any further.

73  Dave  davemiest1@netscape(dot)net

If you use your head, you dont need the alc lead. I've had great luck without, but I would expect it would depend what mode you prefer. I run mostly SSB, just tune and load with care and keep an eye on the grid.

If you need a connector, East Coast Parts carries the DIN plug you need for keying for about $5.00. ALC is a no brainer at rat shack [rca plug]. Hope this helps.

Have fun!  73 De  Dave

Methods I've used: (and be careful ) )Depending on how deep the corrosion) Frist use the baking soda trick as stated before, Q-tip works ok:
1) Fine scotch brite, polish off. You can soak with contact cleaner and get pretty good results. If very fine traces, you can fold over a tool like a small screwdriver or diddlestick.
2)Pencil eraser. Ink type works best. Polish off and clean with air and contact cleaner.
If its corroded thru (pitted), you can reflow the trace or use curcuit repair pen to clean up.

I would not put any coating other than the real stuff (PC board conformal coating).

Hope this helps!  Dave

Those were the days. The 454's were black (have one also) with the HiZ cartrage; the silver ones were 254's and had the ceramic cart (lower Z)
Thanks for the memories!
73  De  Dave

Pop the top and see if the green wire to the 10 meter balance coil is clipped. Sould be clipped or removed. If output is ok on other bands, prb most likly on the same board or maybe the rotary switch contact.

Email/post me if you need any further help.

73  De  Dave

Hi!
You should have no problem finding a replacement. The larger regulator package is getting hard to find. You can use the smaller TO-92 package and be just fine (same specs etc). You can get them from digikey at www.digikey.com from anywhere $.44 to 1.50. Just plug in 78L05 to the search field. Any prefex will work (AN, LM etc). Need any more help email me. 73  De Dave davemiest1@netscape.net

Sounds like a ground loop issue. Try: Different mic & check grounds on gear. 73 DE Dave

Manual is at this addy: http://www.cbtricks.com/ant_manuals/ant_spec/super-scanner.pdf

I had one for years with good luck. The coax is the omni matching stub which is paralalled to cap. I think the 9 foot length is correct. Start at 9 pin the end until you get the match you need. solder cap and stow the end. Send it to me before you scrap it : ) Mine was pretty good on 10 meters. 73 DE Dave

My 2 cents; Beware of off brand soldering stations. If you are doing any ESD sensitive work, you must have a grounded tip ESD Safe equipment like the other gentleman mentioned. I do mil-spec soldering, 725-750F is std. I have and will continure to use Weller equipment, reliable, good product support. They even have a 99.00 one with digital readout. Look here: http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/28343.html
I had the cheap no-names on the floor and regreted it. If you are soldering caps and resistors, almost anything will work as long as the proper tip temp is there. If your new, learn the basics and pratice a bit before your 1st job. Take care and have fun!  73  Dave

You can also put a cheap 12 volt regulators on the output. Simple one ins LM340-12 ~ The -12 being the voltage. Each one is about 1.4 amps rms, use in paralell for > A's. Ive used em for years with no prbs. The computer supplys could also be adapted if you wanted, as they use the similar type regulation. I have even daisy chained them in various voltages to make the voltage levels I need.  Hope this helps. 73 Dave

Another option is a comapny in Florida that makes direct RCA subs. I use them, good people. Co name is Semiconductor Technology Inc.  If you use the NTE sub, make sure the Gain is within your range. Without knowing your application I can't help much on if this is an issue for you or not. In a power supply no worrys, for matched sets or RF apps you may need to select gains. STI also will do that for you reasonable. Addy  http://www.semi-tech-inc.com  Tel  772-283-4500 Call em up and ask. The ones I use run about 5.00 a piece. Contact name is Don. If you dont want to call, send an email and mention Dave in Ohio refereed you to them. 73's Dave

Ok, I'm showing my age and linage : ) It was a popular cb mic in the 70's. One of the popular carbon magnetics, I remember ops using on the Siltronics (Swan) 1011B & C series tube rig. Response is a little on the low end of the spectrom. The manuals with specs is free at Shure http://www.shure.com/pdf/discontinued/cb41.pdf
Let me know if ya get ready to pitch it! Would like tohave one for the memories shelf  73's Dave
davemiest1@netscape.net