I'm certain I have seen advertised lightning-arrestors for transmission-lines but my searches tonight have come up empty.
My hope is that:
1. I could mount the arrestor near the peak of my attic (about 25' high),
2. that it is capable of passing the signal to the inside of my attic where the line would run to my SGC-237 antenna-coupler (also in the attic).
3. back at the outside of the building, I'd also run a #4 or #6 wire from the arrestor to a suitably installed ground-rod.
Thanks for any assistance.
Jerry, KM3K

Chances are very good that I'll hit limestone (I saw it when the basement was being dug-out) before I even get 4' of rod into the ground.
So, I envision lots of 4' rods; questions are:
1. What should be the spacing between those rods?
2. Presuming I'd connect them all to just one rod, what size should be the inter-connect wires?
BTW, I didn't have these concerns with my attic-antenna but then the attic-antenna was not effective in getting out.

I'm in a similar situation.
Just this past Friday, I was talking about this topic with a co-worker (I had just ordered a PAR ef-20 antenna).
To that end, I considered I.C.E. because, if I understand their web-site correctly, their isolators mount right on the ground-rod and the coax then goes to the house.
So lightning has less chance of entry into the house.
That said, I was made uncomfortable by the eHam reviews for I.C.E. and now am researching AlphaDelta products.
If I understand your approach, the copper-plate mounts to the house and lightning would be routed from that plate to a ground-rod.
This is a serious topic and IMHO is worth the time taken to talk it over before any work is done.
Also, I had no idea snow could be a problem static-wise.
73
Jerry, KM3K

What would be some good ways to standoff 450-transmission ladder-line away from a 1" (ID) steel-pole 10' long?

About TAK-tenna...
Based on its eHam reviews, I see lots of happy "ilk" out there.
73
Jerry, KM3K

Based on the last posting, I'm looking at my backyard as never before; the current idea now is how to "put up a dipole for 20 meters fed at its center with 450-ohm window-line".
I stare up at my three trees for so long I get dizzy.
BTW, this month QST had an article about an "air-gun" to shoot lines over tree-limbs; a local ham has built one and offered its use to me.
Jerry, KM3K

Three more items to add to that posting...
It'd be an end-fed antenna at a height of about 28'; 450-ohm ladder-line from the antenna to the coupler.
Jerry, KM3K

Towards replacing an attic-antenna, I now have the means to use one of my trees as a support and could put up a 50' or perhaps even 55' long antenna.
I have a SGC SC-237 antenna-coupler.
My Yaesu FT-950 can work to 6 meters.
My question is about the antenna-wire's length.
Should I put up as much wire as I can or should I go for a resonant-antenna at 10 MHz?
Thank-you for any replies.
73
Jerry, KM3K
 

Hello to KE7UXE,
I need to ask what is a "standoff".
Would it happen to be something like Radio-Shack's 12" outside wall-mount (model# 15-885)?
My plan-B: looks like Radio-Shack is going get my $20 for model# 15-885.
Plan-A was to get the support items from our local radio/TV store but I found out this week that they no longer sell traditional TV-antennas and/or supports; seems like there is no market for the old style outside TV antennas and masts because of either cable or satellite-TV.

I'd be interested to know more details about how long is your mast, how you have it supported (configured) and how long is the mast-section from the last support to the actual antenna.

73
Jerry KM3K

Hello,
After reading the various replies and then looking back at my initial posting, I probably should have put in there that the antenna would be at the apex of my roof, which is how ever tall a typical two and a half story house is.
There is no roof overhang; the wall just goes straight-up to the roof-line. I want to get the antenna maybe 5 or 6 feet above the roof's ridge.
So, whatever pipe I use would likely be 10' overall length.
A fellow ham (co-worker) today suggested going to Radio-Shack for mounting-hardware.
I'm still struggling to figure out in my mind how I'm going to get this thing up while I'm so high up on the ladder; getting on the roof is not an option; roof-pitch is too intense for me.
73
Jerry KM3K

I have the 40 meter TAK-tenna.
Listed weight is 5#.
I calculated wind-load to be 1.15 sq.ft (worst case).
I've seen the gray electrical-pipe at Lowes and wonder what experiences folks have had using it as a mast.
It'd be great to get the stress numbers for the pipe, so I could do some calculating (ala Texas-Towers); but I don't know where to look for the data.
73
Jerry Sodus KM3K

In November, I'm scheduled to give a talk to our local club about "wall-paper" and so I'm researching for what certificates there may be beyond the ARRL listings.
I'd appreciate any input folks could provide.
Thanks in advance.
PS. I'm posting a similar request on the "contesting" forum.

In November, I'm scheduled to give a talk to our local club about "wall-paper" and so I'm researching for what certificates there may be concerning 'contesting'.
I'd appreciate any input folks could provide.
Thanks in advance.
PS. I'm posting a similar request on the "club" forum.

Thank you for your help K7IHC. I've had the mic open too, looks like only adjustment is for DTMF. Just got manual, and will troubleshoot.

IHC, thanks for the reply, but that's what I've done.

That mod simply raises the deviation limiting point so that it no longer limits at +/- 5kHz. What I'm trying to do is raise the mic level and reset the deviation limiting to its correct level, to prevent over deviation but bring up the average.

Does anyone have information on the MC58 or 53 hand mic?

Thanks.