That's the famous PLL unlock problem that if I remember correctly, can sometimes be corrected by re-soldering some bad solder joints.  There are Kenwood Service Bulletins that address that exact problem.  I suggest that you post that question to the Kenwood Reflector, and/or contact Kenwood or a Kenwood repair facility (such as Avvid) for suggestions.  

GL and 73,

Tom, NU7J

Get the InRad 500 hz CW filter, as opposed to the Yaesu filter.  It's considerably cheaper and performs as well if not better than the Yaesu.  The 300 hz filter would be too narrow for casual use.  Even if you had the 300 hz filter, you'd need the 500 hz filter also for tuning around the band.  I have an FT857 also and I plan to order an InRad filter ASAP.  The DSP on the 857 is very effective but it's definitely not a substitute for a crystal filter.  The DSP will augment the crystal filter nicely.  

73,

Tom, NU7J

The Wireman sells "BuryFlex", which is an RG213 cable designed for direct burial, low loss.   I use it, and highly recommend it.  Follow W8JI's advice re: the PVC/drain pipe.  Definitely drill holes in low spots to allow drainage.  You can't keep the water out no matter what you do so you need to allow it to drain.  

I had the same situation recently with my 85 year old father.  He had a TS450S but for some reason he had great difficulty keeping the various switches and controls set properly.  It had too many small knobs and the freq display was much too small for him to see clearly.  I ended up getting him an IC718.  It has a much bigger display and fewer knobs.  But he's still having trouble because there are too many menus.  I wish I had kept his old TS120S, it's fool proof!  I suggest finding a solid state rig that's got no menus, and few knobs.  i.e. TS120S, TS130S, TS140S, maybe even an Alinco, something with little or no menus, no tune-up required.  If you want higher performance (and more controls of course), maybe an Omni V, TS930S, TS940S, etc.  

I once installed a 40M attic dipole and had to zig-zag it a few times to fit.  

In my case I made a fan dipole and zig zagged wires all over the place.  I had wires for 10, 12, 17, 20, 30 and 40 (with 40M doing double duty on 15).  

Worked great.  Just try something and if that doesn't work, try something different.  

GL!

Tom, NU7J

I have a manual for the Pro Search Rotator.  I received mine for free by calling Mosley, tech support # 636-583-8595.  

Mosley-electronics.com
1325 Style Master Drive
Union, MO  63084

GL and 73,

Tom, NU7J

It would be neat to get some sort of station set up in your room, but even if you're successful, I suspect that there will be issues with RFI, noisy neighbors, bothering the roommate, etc.  Besides, people will think you're weird, hi.  

I suggest that you find out whether the school has a club (and club station), and if not, start one.  When I was in college, I loved the peace and quiet of our club station.  Much better than the dorm surroundings and we had a decent station with a tower and tri-bander.  

Don't let it distract your from your studies though!
 
73,

Tom, NU7J

Larry,

Can't remember how to program it manually, but...

You might want to purchase the programming software and cables.  It's pricey but makes programming the FT1500M an enjoyable experience.  It's handy to save different banks of memories for trips, then re-load the original memories without having to do any manual programming.

73,

Tom, NU7J

The prices on QTH.com are around $500 - $550, depending on filters and condition.  I know some people on e-bay pay upwards of $600 but I think that's high considering the price of comparable new equipment.  Sell it on QTH.com for a fair price to a new ham and you'll feel much better about yourself!  

73,

Tom, NU7J

Mine works the same way.  I think that's per design.  I assume my battery is OK because it remembers frequencies stored as VFO A or B, or in the other memories.  I have gotten into the habit of hitting the A = B button to store a freq before switching bands.  Then just hit the A/B button to recall the freq. in the other VFO when you want to switch back.  Just get used to it and be thankful that there are no menus to navigate!

73,

Tom, NU7J

Thanks for maintaining this wonderful site, I find it very useful and enjoyable!

I always enjoy viewing the "shack showcases" to get good ideas to implement at my shack.  It would be nice to be able to view a complete list of shack showcases, and select them for viewing.  As far as I know they are randomly displayed and this capability does not exist.  I wonder if there would be much demand for that feature?  

That sounds a little risky to me because it may not cover the frequencies you need, and would be difficult to repair.  If you want an inexpensive amp, I recommend a Heathkit SB-220.  You can pick a good one up for around $450 - $500.  Much smaller and easier to service since there are a million of them out there.

If you want more info on that particular amp, I recommend that you join the Amps Reflector on contecting.com.  One of the amp experts should be able to tell you what to look out for.  

GL and 73,

Tom, NU7J

You still need one more piece of hardware to go along with the IF-10B.  I have heard that it's very hard to come by now that they're no longer made.  

A company called Piexx makes a serial interface board for the 940.  Check it out at www.piexx.com

I have heard that Piexx board works better than the Kenwood solution.

GL and 73,

Tom, NU7J

It's possible to use the boom on your 20 meter yagi as a rotatable dipole on 40.  I don't recall the matching scheme, but the fellas on the Tower Talk reflector can tell you all you need to know.  A 40 meter rotatable dipole is a surprisingly good performer.

Or you might want to try a single element, full wavelength 40 meter delta loop, supported at the top of your tower.   The other two ends can be supported by a ground stake or any convenient support.  I find that to be superior to a typical dipole, even when the low side of the loop is only 10 - 15 feet off the ground.    Feed it with 1/4 WL of 75 ohm coax, plus any length of 50 ohm coax.  See ARRL handbook for details.  

GL and 73,

Tom, NU7J

When I first key my SB220, there's a high SWR spike when the T-R relay in the amp switches to transmit.  I installed the Harbach "soft key" mod and it made no difference.  

Is this caused by a failing T-R relay in the amp?  

Any sugestions?

Thanks,

Tom, NU7J