You might consider what I now do.
Coax Guides:
Above the tower about 8" or so place a 12" x 1/4 " rod with a loop[ formed in it's end.
The mounting end is 90 degree bend mig welded to a short piece  of angle and double clamped to the mast.
All coax runs through this ring.
It's outside the turning area radius of the tower.
On the top of the tower, off one leg make the same thing only about 6" in length.
Line up the rings about mid way in your normal rotation, then test both directions to set the amount of coax plus some extra for safety.
The result is the coax should not snag on the tower at any point in rotation.
The coax should have much less bending and twisting moments running through the rings and tied fast at the mast and below the lower ring.
The worst time is in the high heat of summer when the coax relaxes.
This should pretty much eliminate any wrap-up from that possible cause and hopefully eliminate issues and extend coax life at the location.
Good luck.

I can't quite get a full picture of what your doing but the 6m beam being the largest takes the reference.
Mounting two beams as a stack for one band in the horiz plane in the horiz polarity requires some extra uprights to keep the beam fields clear of metal for that plane.
If mounting them in the vertical polarity then not.
Placing them to the sides of a 6m beam need some distance so as not to interfere with that beam's field .
Spacing the stack also has feed phase requirements as well as the spacing affecting it's pattern.
These are just ramblings on the subject that may need to be looked at for total design since we can't tell what you are doing in totality.
Doing vertical integration as much as possible minimizes these issues.
The smaller 440 and 1.2 antennas are not so much of an issue installed between the large antenna.
Do consider the feedlines in the total design.
I recommend you get a near flat 50 ohm load and test every feedline and set up the antenna matches in place before the final job is done because they will inter act to some degree
Good luck.

Jack, have you looked at your owner manuel for the info?
Have you looked on the radio back panel for the jack marked "LINEAR".
.
A look at the AL80B back panel shows an RCA jack marked 'RLY' the keyup lead connection.
Just wondering.

UPDATE/UPDATE, there should be little to no TVI any longer on the 6m band with TV gone to digital.
Any rig could have local issues on any band, within an apartment complex or close by to a TV that is open to interference.
Most often today, the TV causes RFI to a radio.
Good luck.

Hi Ray, you will just have to tune the bands for awhile with some small beams to see what you hear first.
A high location is very nice to have but you may need to call CQ  for some time to get attention.
144.200, 50.125.
High gain beams and hi power is the need.
Good luck.

It's not a stupid idea, but you know there will be coupling effects that will change the antenna operation in some way as reflected by SWR away from what it normally would be for length and radiation pattern.
The metal screen is a capacitive coupling and changes the distribution on the wire for pattern and impedance.
It will still work but you would never be able to tell what the difference is unless you put another antenna up and compair over time.
Good luck.

If you plan on using a dipole or some other antenna config from 40m down, the tuner needs to have the same rateing as the amplifier plus a little to spare.
The cost of the amplifier plus the cost of a good tuner adds up fast.
Good luck.

Just a reminder that ALC feedback from the amplifier input circuit does the same control action as a fixed ALC supply.
Only difference is the fixed is fixed and not change with the radio drive levels at the varying audio rate.
How this all works out in the end depends on how the ALC control circuit in the radio, works.
You could fix set the ALC with an external supply and still have to reduce the mike gain or compression 'might' take place in the radio with it's effects,
or if the ALC feeds back to the mike circuit, it will all be under control in a full loop.
The other item is mistuning the radio tube final could have the same effects on IMD, and harmonics that misstuning the amplifier at low power has, then passing the crap on to the amplifier.
Don't know in this case how any of it will work out, but be awhere it may be something to deal with after operating and getting some signal reports.
I feel 'dynamic' ALC is the best overall setup so the radio final can be tuned as it should be and full control of the drive level smoothly is attained. Your only after ALC action beyond the max drive level the Amplifier needs for full output so it does not over-drive into it's non-linear area more than need be.
What you have is a setup that needs a lot of understanding to learn what it takes for tuning up and changing frequency on the band and going to another band and doing it all over again each time.
Sorta like the old days. Hi hi.
Good luck.

An ALC circuit could be put in the amplifier.
Requires a neg supply and diode conduction clamp, a time constant capacitor and level control pot.
Feed the signal from the amp input circuit so the drive  limit setting is fed back to the 104 when it detects it.
With the drive level you have , it would provide some RF compression and tend t make you a bit louder from higher average RF drive compression when the ALC signal is fed back.
Good luck.

Two items you need to be concerned about.
1. The switch should ground the Scanner line when it's not being used.
2. Any device with a GASFET type front end amplifier will be subject to burn out from cross coupling power one antenna to another no matter if the device is powered on or off.
The protection diodes offered as protection  will not do the job in a cross coupling case because the Gasfet juntion has already burned open 'before' the protection diodes have begun to conduct a shunting path.
Been there a couple times already.

The action on 205 was started some time ago by a few in the northeast and has grown quite large.
Begins around 8am eastern time and usually goes to about 10am for long distance SSB contacts.
This is to support the growth of 2m SSB.
They picked the 205 so anyone tuning the band has a chance to hear if in propagating range.
Other areas may have picked up on the action.
Look at all the band plans from ARRL for the 'rec comended' frequency uses but may differ in different areas.
I realize 144.205 may cause QRM to the calling frequency of 144.200 but that would not be very big issue on a band like 2 meters in most places unless the band suddenly became crowded like 75 or 40 or 20 meters which I doubt will ever happen in the near future.
If it did, they would move up.
Good luck. 

Pete, for the use your going to use a switch for all but the cheapest ones won't be an issue.
For instance, a device you may never use but hear about is the diplexer.
A signal splitter/combiner to enable radios to feed and receive from two antennas on widely different vhf/uhf bands off one coax cable.
They also have some loss, some small reflected power and good isolation between their ports.
I have used one in a mobile installation and fixed antenna install and can't tell a difference from loss or any other parameter on signals above the noise level involving repeaters at a distance.
For uses like this, no problem but I would not do it for weak signal long distance work where everything counts.
Just another perspective for you.
Good luck.

Fuse values in cars and truck are engineered to fail long before wire overheats unless some fool put in higher capacity fuses.
He then deserves to get what he gets from doing so.
No mfger would want the liability of losing a vehicle in the owners hands from a proven over fused circuit as part of it's normal speced design.
Trucks often are designed and wired for a bit larger current.
In a Ford F150, The Cigar lighter is fused at 20 amps. It's socket is not the same as  a standard power port.
The power port along side of it, is also rated at 20 amps.
In these trucks there are two fuse panels. One in the engine bay and one in the dash.
Normally power port appliance plugs are not rated above 10 amps and very often have their own fuse inside the plug at no more than 10 amps if that..
One must look at the power port rating for fuse size in any vehicle to be sure before using it for other than a normal appliance use.
Good luck.

A 'capactor bank' at the radio will allow somewhat more power to be drawn on a mode such as SSB where the caps have a chance to recharge between audio drive signals but there is a limit to this.
This would be of little to no help on FM trying to extend the circuit's full current limit.
This is the same trick the auto audio high power boys do to feed the big amps when the lows are hit instead of trying to get it 'all' out of the battery and alternator but they use large gage wire.
Good luck.

Looking at the issue this way says you will always need the same actions no matter what radio you have.
A. The offset is standard and automatic 99.9% of the time.
B. You will nearly always need to set the PL tone or use the PL tone hunting feature is it has one, unless you know the repeater is open.
You will need to turn on the Tone function.
C. You will need to set the power level unless you want to run full power for all repeaters.
D. You will always have to set the output frequency up in VFO function.
E. You will always need to set each to a memory number out of VFO..
F. There will be a time you want to clear a memory of a setting.
There is no way to boil all these down to a few simple actions.
The other way is to use a programming cable and computer and do it off a monitor, then load the setting into the radio.
.
Now take care you don't over work yourself playing in a hobby. Hi hi.
Good luck.