Do you get RFI on all of the amplifier inputs?  If so, try disconnecting cables going to inputs to see if input cables are feeding into amp.

If you work me, I'll get you a LOTW confirmation !!!

I use my Pecker to tune my Amp Supply LK800.  The circuit is probably at least 30 yrs old.  Great way to fiddle with tuning while being very gentle with amplifier and power supply.  Depending upon capacitor values chosen, duty cycle will be 15 to 30 %.  As mentioned above, you do need a peak reading power meter, since all of the metering will be much below actual peak.  If duty cycle of your Pecker is 20%, meters will read approximately 20% of actual.  But you would have to look at Pecker output with scope to get a reasonably accurate %.

That said, I tune my amp with the Pecker (mine is set for 15% duty cycle).  Then watching peak power meter, tune plate and load for maximum peak power.  To avoid exceeding legal 1500 watts, either do this into dummy load, or start with somewhat less than full drive power, say 50 watts.  If you do that, then gradually increase drive, making minor adjustments to tune/load controls, until you have 1500 showing on peak meter.  Then your tuning is correct, and your drive is correct.  Write down the numbers and you are done.  (Some suggest then setting the load control slightly higher, heavier loading, to improve linearity).

It seems to be accepted that amplifiers need to be correctly tuned at the peak power that will be used.  So using the Peaker allows while running tubes and power supply at 20% (or whatever duty cycle), rather than 100%.  Virtually impossible to damage tubes or power supply at that type of duty cycle.  Also a dummy load will only have to absorb 20% of 1500 watts, rather than the full 1500 watts.  

Some set up in CW and send dits, to pulse output. Sort of does same thing, but your radio in CW mode may not be same output as SSB, so some question as to accuracy of that method.  I prefer the Pecker.

Speaking of GFI tripping, at 2010 Field Day power from our generator was periodically tripping off.  Had to reset the GFI that was in the generator.  We eventually  found the problem:  Some excess AC cord to generator was coiled up on the ground.  Happened to be over a ground radial also laying on ground.  Apparently RF in radial caused pickup in AC cord, causing GFI trip. 

Two comments:

1.   I agree with earlier post that LOTW software is "clunky", and no doubt causes some to abandon process partway through.  I know I gave up a couple of years ago before trying again two weeks ago.  Software needs to be rewritten.

2.  Now that I am back into LOTW, I looked up my LOTW DXCC report.  I only operate 20M SSB, since 2003.  LOTW showed 193 confirmed.  My "real" QSL card confirmation showed 253 of 256 worked.   The missing three were filled in by LOTW.  So my LOTW return was 75%.  But this probably greatly overstates return since for most entities I have worked multiple stations, any of which would have provided an LOTW hit.

You mention adding a wire to house ground wire.  If this is your only "RF" ground, you really don't have one (house ground wanders all over house, and is plenty long). 

I have had good luck with clamp-on ferrite filters.  Here is a typical Ebay link

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-TDK-11mm-Clip-on-RFI-EMI-Noise-Filter-Ferrites-/190622297835?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c61f96eeb

I prefer the larger clamp-on (11mm or 13mm) because the larger size has space for multiple turns of the cable.  Impedance goes up with square of number of turns, so 4 turns is 16x more effective than 1 turn, etc.  Buy a bunch as you will likely add clamp-ons to most everything going in and out of your receiver, and at the speakers themselves.  I mention that because I have found that the wire to the speakers can pick up RF and feed directly into the speakers.

I signed back up last week for LOTW, after four year absence.  Found the installation/certificate/upload process to be more confusing than I think it should be, but got through it (in spite of being quite PC proficient).  I think there should be only one software program (not two), and the program should lead a person step by step through the process.  That's how most well-programmed commercial programs do it.

Currently the two programs require using the on-line LOTW help for virtually every step.
Also with Win7, might be difficult to find the saved file (likely in Compatibility FIles), and upload screen on LOTW can't find a file in a Compatibility File folder, so must then move or copy elsewhere.  I suspect a fair number of hams give up along the way, especially the more casual operators who don't work DX much.

Per ARRL, 47,000 are using LOTW.  Considering the world-wide number of hams, that's still pretty low.  But seems to me virtually all more recent DXpeditions and most active DXer's participate. 

I much prefer real QSL cards, but after uploading, found confirmations for three new countries that I was missing received cards.  So the process was worth it to me, just for those three.  Uploaded about 9000 QSO's, so presumably I also helped some others with their confirmations.  Now that I'm back into LOTW, I'll continue to use it.   John, KØIZ

I use N8LP's LP Remote board and software to control my station.  Works super.  Also use X10 telephone responder and control relay to turn on power to LP Remote via telephone.  That way I can do complete shutdown of station if internet should go out.  jOHN, kØIZ

James, good link for tester info.  Thanks.   I have an Eico 667 (purchased way back as new), which does what I need.  I was able to find on eBay the complete tube chart (many pages, much more than the roll chart), which helps.  The roll chart has a few misc errors on settings.

Look for an older transformer type wall wart.  These are bigger and heavier than the newer switching units.  Readily available in flee markets, used computer stores, garage sales.  I have had similar problems with some switching wall warts (although others have been ok).  So am mostly using the transformer type now.

Here is a link to an "Ideal" brand of tool (I couldn't remember name earlier).  I have one of these, plus one of the T&B brand, which is essenatially idental.  At Lowes and elsewhere

http://www.lowes.com/pd_231102-12704-33-633_0__?productId=3369464&Ntt=compression+tool&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dcompression%2Btool&facetInfo=

Tool for compression type connectors is NOT like the above link.  Home Depot and Lowes both sell tools for the compression connectors.  T&B brand, and another brand (can't think of name at moment).  I have both and they both look same and work same.  To use, you trim end of RG6 about 1" or so, thru sheath, shield, and insulation, to center conductor.  Then trim back sheath 1/4 inch, not cutting shield.  Slip on connector.  Drop into tool and compress end of connector.  Then trim center conductor so sticks out about 1/8 or so from end of connector.  Foolproof.

Perhaps you have a Linksys router.  Mine created RFI at about 61Khz intervals, for example 14151, 14212, etc.  I tried toroids and clampons on wall wart.  No help.  Changed wall wart to older transformer type.  No help.  I found out that RFI was being radiated by the unit itself and somewhat by the Cat5 cables.  Clampons made only small improvement on Cat5 cables.  I just switched to a Netgear router, much better.

The linksys router are notorious for RFI.

John.

I use Jim Mackey's service to purchase postage stamps.  In almost all cases I send a SASE to the DX station with HIS country's postage.  Seems to work well.   http://www.airmailpostage.com/