Go to eBay, do a search on "diodes", "resistors", electrolytics", "disk capacitors", etc.  You will find a number of China sources for these parts (usually called "kits").  For example, I recently purchased 1000 (20 ea of 50 values) of 25V disk caps for total of $6, including shipping.  Earlier purchases of resistors, etc.  All parts I have received are high quality, standard, nicely packaged in individual little bags by value.  Buy these kits and you will a good start (at minimal cost) on most of the common parts used in all low-voltage projects.  Most shipping from China or Hong Kong take about 2 1/2 or 3 weeks.

Here's my favorite for solar data

http://www.solarham.net/

Buy several sizes of tips.  I recommend either a .50mm or .80mm for the real small stuff, about 1.6mm for most things, and 3.2mm for larger stuff (vintage equipment, PL259's, etc).  The 3.2 has enough mass to heat up the larger joints.  Re solder, I have always used 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead), but have recently switched to 63/37.  Do not, ever, use lead free or acid core.  Buy several sizes as you need it (.015 or .020 or so for real small stuff, probably .032 for medium, and .050 or .062 for the bigger stuff.

I received an email that QSL processing has resumed.  http://janmayen2011.org/qsl-service-resumed

Thanks for very interesting link to Jackson Brothers.  I enjoyed reading their history.

The battery voltage will vary with charge in it, from below 12 volts to maybe 14.2 or so.  When you connect a constant current source (ie solar panel) to the battery, the battery will attempt to absorb as much current as the source can deliver, and as battery charge approaches 100%, battery voltage will rise to the 14.xx.  Assuming no radio load, the battery thus is pulling down the solar voltage to the battery voltage.  That "protects" the radio.  When battery reaches full charge, it will still attempt to absorb solar current, and begin to "cook" the battery.  No good, thus at that point a controller would be shutting off solar current.

I think in your case the main risk is that when hooking up DC cables, you would accidentally make the radio and solar connections before connecting the battery terminals.  That could easily damage radio, even when radio is "off" since most modern radios (like TV's, etc) are internally powered whenever DC is applied to radio.

I seem to recall that there are devices being sold (and maybe some construction articles) on a voltage "crowbar", which clamps down on voltage if it exceeds a certain value.  Placing such a device across the radio DC terminals would provide protection.  With battery in circuit, might have to add fuse between crowbar and battery to prevent crowbar from shorting battery.  I really don't have familiarity with crowbars, but maybe someone else on eham could help.

John.

Rob, I will comment on a portion of your questions.

Your selected battery is 12ah, which should be a adequate for modest amount of transmitting.  Probably good compromise between watts and weight.
The solar cell -600 is rated at .6a.  Really isn't 10watts, since it will be connected to a 12V battery.  Solar cells are constant current devices, so this panel would deliver .6a even into direct short.  So your power (full sun) would be about 12V x .6a = 7.2 watts.  Double for the -1200 panel.  Assuming that you might get 6 hours or so of sun under some conditions, the -1200 would have a better chance of keeping battery up (6hrs x 1.2a) = 7.2ahrs.  Recharging battery is not 100% efficient, maybe 3/4 or so.  So the 7.2ahrs would replace perhaps 5.5 or so ahr in battery.   

Open circuit voltage of a solar panel can be as high as 20 or 21 volts.  That is probably why you were given advice not to connect panel directly to radio.  If you did so, and battery became disconnected, your radio would see that 20 or 21 volts.  By connecting panel to battery, and then battery to radio, that risk is gone.  Obviously for same reason you would NEVER want to operate the radio with just the solar panel.

You may not need the charge controller.  Even the -1200 panel will crank out only 1.2a, which is 1/10 of battery capacity.  So relatively little danger of grossly overcharging battery.  With -600, even less likely.  Without controller you would not want to let battery be on charge for extended periods without using the battery some.

There are push-on spade terminals that will take two connections.  Also some favors of the 12120 battery have twin spades on each terminal.

Have fun.   John.

I found an old advertisement re my downconverter.  Consists of a preamp (deluxe model!) and downconverter for (reportedly) 1.9 to 2.5Ghz.  Tunable by a pot.  Probably output on channel 3, but ad didn't specify.

In my basement I came across a 2.5Ghz downconverter setup I built from a kit.  This was about 1982 or so.  System included home-made rod antenna (with a bunch of washers as directors), and downcoverter.  Later made a 4ft dish (in attic) and coffee can horn.  At the time I pointed at a tower about 15 miles away that had a (if I recall correctly) "multiple distribution" system.  This carried HBO.  Long before the small satellites.  Service was sold to hotels, etc.  So I got free HBO reception.

Anyway, these days 2.5 Ghz has ham, routers, wifi, etc.  So now I am wondering if this setup can be used for anything (for the fun of it)?   

I suppose in all the responses (including mine), one thing was mostly forgotten:  Contrats on building something!  Many today would not attempt to build much of anything, much less something of your scope.  Hope you decide to continue on with your endeavors.   

Each to his own.   My sources for vintage parts, in probable order of availability and cost:

1.  Older hams in my radio club.  Most have lots and lots of misc parts and probably some old home brew equipment.  Most have wives that would love for an excuse to help empty a bit of the basement.  Our club holds an annual auction in Oct, much is cleanings from basement.

2.  Local hamfests.  Much is not worth listing on eBay or paying for shipping.  Most home brew looks dirty, totally inop, etc.  Most can be purchased for almost nothing.  Lots of vintage parts that cannot be easily individually purchased.

3.  Dayton Hamvention.  Late on Saturday, lots of marginal vintage home brew can be had for very little.  On Friday, look for stuff that has the specific part(s) needed (ie power transformers, plug in coils, etc), and pay a little more.

4.  eBay.  Inop, not tested, ugly home brew will go for not much more than the shipping.

To my view, if one attempts to replicate a vintage design, then vintage parts should be used.  ANd there's fun in the chase.

55Mhz direct conversion, 7 receivers, 1/2W xmt output thru 10M, 3/8 watt on 6M, great specs.
Digital Up and Digital Down.  Single board.
Orders for the ONLY production run must be placed by July 25.
$895/$940.  Future is here!

55Mhz direct conversion, 7 receivers, 1/2W output thru 10M, 3/8 watt on 6M, great specs.
Digital Up and Digital Down.  Single board.
Orders for the ONLY production run must be placed by July 25.

http://openhpsdr.org/wiki/index.php?title=HERMES

All politics aside, I'm upset that the proposal is for CW only.  I only work phone.  I suppose anyone who puts on a DXpedition can set any criteria they want.  But to justify only CW because some 12K previously worked P5 ("majority" on SSB), looks like a big stretch.  Perhaps it should only be a PSK operation, since I doubt anyone has that in the P5 log.