Ahh yes..that information would be important:

> 1) What bands?

2m

> 2) How large of an antenna?

Hustler SF-2 with MKR-2 Radial Kit

http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamantm/1999.html
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamantm/1977.html

> 3) Where will you mount the tripod?

Ground

> 4) Height of mast above tripod?

Zero. I intended to place the Radial Kit directly on top of the tripod mast by feeding Coax through the mast. Im mainly looking for anything better than my rubber ducky using parts that I already own

> 5) Maximum windspeed rating in your area?

No idea...but it would be used during storm season in the midwest for skywarn spotting. I suspect I'll need to brace the tripod during heavy wind.

> 6) How heavy-duty of a tripod?

Pretty heavy duty to me..but here's a link to a picture of it...not much on details.
http://www.ambientweather.com/ExtDesc.asp?id=1139
I believe the weakest link is that the mast is two pieces of tubular steel with the top one slipping into the bottom one and a couple u-bolts holding it together by compression. I should probably replace that with a single tube I suspect.

I currently have a bunch of weather stuff hanging off it and sitting in my backyard and it's lasted the rainy season without issue.

I was mainly concerned with any lightning issues I need to consider but your questions made me think.

Thanks!

I have a 2m mobile that I tinker with at home APRS. I want to replace it with a build kit and redeploy the 2m mobile for something else...maybe ARES.

Im looking for a 2m kit for my first 'build my own radio' project. It will be used for APRS so I would prefer small (thought not tiny) and it need only output somewhere between 1 and 5W. Anybody have a recommendation? or at least recommendations on which company to use?

> I'd suggest you use a DC adapter for you laptop instead of AC.

Jeez...I didnt even think of that. Thanks!

-Tyler

What's my issues with taking a metal tripod and sticking an antenna on the top? Or are there issues?
Should I attach a PVC pole to the top and then mount the antenna? hungry mind wants to know.

> http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/gensup.htm

True, but it takes fuel (not solar friendly) I cant learn by openning my wallet and the big kicker...I can buy pieces parts without the wife complaining. Dropping a grand on a generator gets the wife upset

Im looking for the cheapest solution for an APRS graphical display on my laptop.  Transmission isnt a requirement though it would be nice. Size isnt really a requirement either but smaller would be better.

I have APRS setup at home using a 2meter radio and a AEA TNC connected to a desktop PC but I want something I can take into the field during weather spotter season to receive the NWS alerts for plotting and what not.

Im guessing the cheapest is going to be hooking up the cheapest 2m receiver I can find at a hamfest to my laptop's sound card and using it that way.  Would this be correct?

-Tyler

> I would suggest ading a 35 watt self regulated solar
> panel. It would charge your battery, run most of
> your load, and last a long time.

Got a link?

> Unless... of course you were planning on running
> the trickle charger off the inverter

Actually..that would be an interesting experiment.

> Wait..a minute............
> If you have power to run a 110 volt trickle
> charger......... I assume you have AC power.

Ahh..sorry. I didnt explain enough. The trickle charger was for when Im at home or I know I'll be going to a place that has AC power...but might not if an 'event' occurs. (eg: storm spotting..sometimes my spotter location has power..sometimes it dont)

> No, that means you get 75 amp hours at a rate of
> discharge that takes the battery to 10.5V in a 20
> hour time span. So a 75Ah/20hr rate for this battery
> would be 3.75A for 20 hours. At a 3A rate, this
> would net you about 25 hours of continuous operation
> to 10.5V.

Where did the 3.75A come from?  Im trying to figure out the math so when I figure out what my real rate is I have some idea how long it will last.

-Tyler

What are the opinions on the following solution for a Campsite/Emergency power solution.

Im trying to mix 'lugable', with 'cheap' and 'long lasting'. I know all three are relative but what does everyone think about the following for a best of all three words.

Go to Wallmart and buy:
- EverStart 75Ah DeepCycle Trolling/Marine battery (Could go larger if you are willing to lug the extra weight)
- EverStart Automatic Marine Battery Charger
    Has  2Amp Trickle Charge (primary usage)
    Has 10Amp Fast Charge
    Has 50Amp Engine Start
- 350W Power Inverter
    Has 2 x 20Amp max draw outlets

Also pick up a DC Outlet Strip from a local electronics parts store for anything that needs DC, like radio gear.

I then figure I can run my Laptop off the Inverter and my HT radio gear of the DC Outlet Strip.

Assuming I ran 3Amps of continues drain on the battery how long should I expect the battery to last before the alarm bells start going off and I need to stop using the battery or risk damaging it/or me?

I've read that 75Ah means I should be able to draw 75Amp for 20 hours before hitting the 10.5V floor. So can I do the simple math of (75Amp*20hr)/3Amp = 500 hours of use. That sure doesnt look right.

Also..does anybody know what kind of battery the EverStart DeepCycle Trolling/Marine batteries are? VRLA? SLA? AGM? etc. The EverStart website sucks for documentation.

-Tyler
KI4BUM

So if I take my HT out into the field during stormy weather and I go and erect a small antenna with 50ft of coax what should I do/buy to add some safety to the design?

This seems so simple that since I dont see anybody else doing it I must be missing something. And since Im not exactly a genius on electrical/battery systems I'll ask before I become the next winner of the Darwin Awards.

So....

Why dont people buy a marine battery, hook up a trickle charger to it, power their radio gear off the battery and run like that all the time in their shack?

No 'switching' over to backup power, you are already on backup power you are just 'charging' your system from the house current when you can.

I've gotta be missing something.

-Tyler

Being the safety concious person that I am, but totally clueless about electrical devices, I went out and bought a MultiMeter to do some testing on a home built battery backup system Im 'learning' on.

The DC block that is hooked up to the battery says I should not exceed 15amps.  So being the safety person that I am I go get the manual for everything plugged into the DC block and add up the factory specs for amp usage on each item.  It's below 15amp. But I want to know how much each item is really drawing from the battery.

So..I take out my MultiMeter and manual. The manual says:

5. DC 10 Amp Measurement
A seperate input jack is provided for measurement of DC current up to 10 Amps.
  1) Set the function switch to the 10 Amp range with the leads in the proper jacks
  2) Touch the test leads to the circuit in series so that the crcuit current passes through the multitester. That means the test leads and the meter are a conductor in the circuit.
  3) Read the display

So..I set the right switch and put the red probe in the correct input jack. I then take the red probe and touch the red post where the red wire of the fan is connected. I beat you know where this is going. I take the black probe and touch the black post on the DC block.  SPARKS fly...fuse snaps and Im off to change my underwear.
 
So what did I do wrong?

They should teach this stuff in school so I dont end up killing myself.