ARRL and QRZ get the license update info from the FCC.

Check your license info at FCC.gov, search = Amateur.

Eham profile update-
http://www.eham.net/about/loginhelp#new_callsign

73 Jamie NE4TT

HOW TO RESTORE TELEGRAPH KEYS BY W.R. SMITH - W4PAL

The book is a soft cover, plastic comb bound, 8.5 x 11, and 105 pages.

W.R. Smith takes you through the restoration process, from minor cleaning, to his own designs of vertical keys.
He extensively documents his work with a plethora of high quality color photos, and concise detailed restoration methods.
There are references to the various vendors products and tools used in his shop.


The Chapters:
1] Cleaning and Minor Repairs
2] Japanning a Key Base
3] Plating of Key Parts
4] Hints, Tips, and Tooling, Covers shop tools and manufacturing techniques
5] Making Speed Key Parts
6] Rebuilding a Double Lever Vibroplex
7] Restoration of Speed Keys
8] W.R. Smith Telegraph Keys: Monovert, Duovert, and Magnevert


If you have an interest in the restoration of older Vibroplex keys,
or just appreciate fine workmanship, add this book to your library.

Jamie NE4TT

W.R. Smith Bio:

http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/bio.htm


Mr. Smith HOW TO RESTORE TELEGRAPH KEYS:

http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/books.htm#telegraph


Online pictures of Mr. Smith workmanship:

http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/telegraph.htm

http://www.chss.montclair.edu/~pererat/mwr.htm

The W1AW code practice is online and will augment your CW skills.

They also have the text to check your copy.  

http://www.arrl.org/w1aw/morse.html

Jamie NE4TT

If you are interested in Vibroplex restoration, take a look at Mr. Smith's excellent workmanship.
His own upright keys are at the top of the page.
The restoration before and after pics are halfway down the page.
He has a book on restoration that is currently available.
I ordered one after viewing his work.

Jamie NE4TT

http://www.wrsmithclocks.com/telegraph.htm

Take a look at the products offered by The Wireman.
I would also recommend getting his book to add to your library.
http://thewireman.com/products.html

Jamie NE4TT

You might check out the clubs in your area.
I'm confident there are Hams that will fix you up with a good radio and key.
Good luck on your search for a rig and key.

I started with the TenTec Century 21.
It is a CW only transciever, with approx 30W out.
Paid around $100 for it. A good performer.

You can also find a TenTec Triton series transciever with a power supply for around $150-$200.
100W out, and a nice radio despite its age.
You can also use it on SSB phone.

If you decide on using an iambic key,
the Logikey electronic keyer is hard to beat.
Available assembled, or as a kit.

http://www.mtechnologies.com/

I have a Nye handkey, and a Russian ElectroInstrument.
Picked them up used at a hamfest for about half retail.

Jamie NE4TT

Congrats on your accomplishment.

You may wish to check out
"The Art & Skill of Radio Telegraphy", By William G. Pierpont, N0HFF

Good history on CW and early operators, with plenty of info on skills, speed building, etc.

If you have cable or DSL, you can download the 'book'.
http://www.qsl.net/n9bor/n0hff.htm

Mic wiring, 3 cond. 1/4" plug:
PTT-Tip
Mic-band
Shield-barrel

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If your power connectors are Cinch-Jones:

Pins 1 & 2- power switch
Pins 3 & 4- negative 12-14 volts [ground]
pins 5 & 6- Positive 12-14 volts

Use both pins for minimum contact resistance, and 12 or 14 guage wire.

Pins 1 & 2 should not be used to switch DC directly,
mobile or battery power.

CAN be used with TT power pack.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If your power connectors are 4-in-row, white plastic:

The connector is an AMP Mate-N-Lock.

Use the Female pins for the back of radio, and the Male for the power supply.

Use 12 AWG and solder to pins, prior to inserting into the housing.

Mouser P/Ns

571-14807020—Pin Housing--$0.32 each
571-3505471—Male Pin--$0.09
571-3505501—Female Socket--$0.09



Wiring the Radio

The DC Plus is oriented to the top of the radio, the DC Neg is to the bottom.

Pin 1—DC Plus
Pin 2--AF/Power Switch
Pin 3--AF/Power Switch
Pin 4 --DC Neg

NOTE: The Power Switch is NOT rated for 18 Amp switching, I.E. : mobile or battery power.


Wiring the TT Power Supply

DC Plus is closest to the heat sink.
DC Neg is closest to the outside.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

73 NE4TT Jamie

Local auto parts stores do not have ground straps,
for bonding engine and body parts, to chassis.

Need to find a vendor.

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Jamie NE4TT

Jack,

The connector is an AMP Mate-N-Lock.

Use the Female pins for the back of radio, and the Male for the power supply.

Use 12 AWG and solder to pins, prior to inserting into the housing.

Mouser P/Ns

571-14807020—Pin Housing--$0.32 each
571-3505471—Male Pin--$0.09
571-3505501—Female Socket--$0.09



Wiring the Radio

The DC Plus is oriented to the top of the radio, the DC Neg is to the bottom.

Pin 1—-DC Plus
Pin 2--AF/Power Switch
Pin 3--AF/Power Switch
Pin 4--DC Neg

NOTE: The front panel Power Switch is NOT rated for 18 Amp switching, I.E.: battery power or mobile.


Wiring the TT 262 Power Supply

DC Plus is closest to the heat sink.
DC Neg is closest to the outside.

Center pair are for switching the TT PS On/Off,
via pins 2&3 on back of radio.
Or jumper 2&3 at the power supply,
to use the PS power switch.

73
Jamie NE4TT

Check the ARRL-

http://www.arrl.org/FandES/field/nets/client/index.html

73 Jamie NE4TT