Man, this has been a good and fun read.

Never, not even once, did I see anything stated about a modded radio being used to transmit outside of it's approved frequencies.  I did see the implication that it was possible in event of a permissible event.  OK.  No laws broken.  You see, just modding the radio is not the problem - like many of you seem to think.  It's only when you use that modded radio to actually transmit.  And only then if those transmission don't fit into a very narrow group of events is the law broken.  That has NOT occurred.  In fact, the OP seems to be one of the few who just may encounter those events whereby it is legal.  Don'tcha get it?

I can imagine in the event of a hiker with a compound fracture, this will be considered a life threatening event.  I think we can all agree on that.  Now, would it be illegal, if the only radio able to communicate was a two meter HT modded to transmit outside the ham bands on say the Sheriffs Freq (at 155.070) to call for assistance?  I think the rules are clear and it would not.

Now, how many of you in the above scenario have both the modding instructions and the tools necessary to perform the mod on site?  I thought so.

Most of you have built a straw man, and now that it's on fire, your doing your best to defend your own pyromania.  Grow up please.

To the original poster and the lawyer who came to his aid, I applaud you both, not only for your knowledge of the rules, but your tolerance for the child like barrage of mental special Olympics you've endured...

Lon - Specifically - PLONK!  (look it up)

Jim - KB1NXE

Add the Icom PW-1 to the list.

Coupla of questions that may help you decide for yourself:

Do you have to mow under it?
Will it be accessible by small, curious hands (not just yours)?
How you going to support it over it's length?
Will it present a tripping hazard?
What's the substrate it needs to travel over (dirt/grass/pavement/the living/thermonuclear warheads)?
Will it be open wire or ladder line (insulated)?

I'd make that second question the most important.  No need to fry the curious.  Just messes with your SWR anyway ;~)  But you also need to address the safety of the installation.  

You theoretically can leave it inches off the ground as long as no grass or other material will come in contact.  Tripping hazard is a huge consideration if you need to stay right with your family and insurance company.  Assuming open wire, if grass will come in contact, not only will it screw up the match, it could become a fire hazard (unless you run QRP).  However, if the grass is damp, it may load better:~).

You can alway purchase a Serial Port card for your PC (/rant - unless it's a laptop, but then why would anyone use a laptop in a fixed location - not what they're designed for - /rant).

Google 'serial cards'.  I've installed 2 and 4 port models in both my PCs in the shack.  Ends all problems with compatibility and using rotator/TNC/Rig/whatever connections over an adapter/emulator.  Cost is minor, the 4 port one I got is a half height card with both full and half height brackets for under $60.  Start at www.newegg.com.

That had two satellite speakers, one with a control.  The second speaker connected to the first (the one with the controller).

If you don't have the satellite speakers, you'd have to follow the wiring to see which are the Power pair, the Volume control and then the left and right channel.

Sounds like all you have is the sub-woofer.

Jim

Read here:

http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx

All the free information you'd ever want on Antenna and Tower Grounding.  Yes, I've been harping on this for a couple of days in various forums.  Good information is meant to be shared.  Lightening season is coming up again.

FWIW, I discovered this info (and soaked it up) because I'm putting up a new tower at a new QTH soon.  Not associated with PolyPhaser.

I've recently see one company offering 'surge protectors' for ladder or open wire feed lines.  One look at them shows you how simple this is.  They're spark plugs!  

Yup, 2 simple ole spark plug you'd use in your lawn mower mounted on a piece of metal (aluminum or copper) with a nut holding it in place.  Space them the right width for your line, and you're all set.  No knife switch, no forgetting to throw it.  Automagic.

Look for the spark plug with the screw on adapter at the wire end.  Then remove and replace with a couple of washers and a nut, wrap the wire around the post and tighten the nut.  Almost too simple.

Maybe not bad advise.  Read the following tech notes and see how they may apply:

http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx

There may be a better way and that is to use metal conduit from tower to shack.  Bonded at both ends to the ground.  This conduit will become part of the ground and act as a Faraday Shield to the cables it contains.

Documents in the above tech notes will discuss the issue of magnetic coupling from a near strike (could be the tower or a nearby tree) into the cables.  You also need to look at the inductance the buried cables will have and use it to calculate the entire circuit.  What you need to do is place a conductor that offers a lower inductance than presented by the coax.  This way it will take most of the current presented by the lightening.  Depending upon the numbers and size of coax used, that conductor may be something larger than 1/0 copper wire!

Proper grounding is not a set of hard and fast rule as each situation is unique.  Best to ask someone who knows what they are doing rather than invite trouble into the house.

I recommend all users of antennas be familiar with the notes in the above link.  PolyPhaser is basically giving away hundreds of dollars worth of grounding and lightening protection training for free.

I have a Hy-Gain 18-AVT vertical. Very similar to the Hustler.  Mine is ground mounted, but the advise given so far has been spot on.

Check out the following link and the tech notes that apply (insulated support and roof mounted)  If you have this on the roof of your new house, don't make it into an unsafe lightening rod.
 
http://www.polyphaser.com/technical_notes.aspx

Jim - KB1NXE

I'm going to disagree with the previous post on HRO.  I've only experienced great service from them.  Especially in the Salem NH store (Don't know where ya are in VT, but if it's southern VT, Salem is only a 1:30 hour drive from Brattleboro).

Call the Salem store if ya need anything.  Cal, or any of the guys there will treat you the way you expect, shipping is free (over $100 purchase), and if they have it in stock, it doesn't have to come far and will get there wicked quick.

Jim - KB1NXE, Keene, NH

When a site is suspended, it's due to 'black listing' by their ISP.  Many reasons here why an ISP could black list.  Most common is when a virus attacks a system and it starts spewing SPAM.  

Like hair dye; Only their ISP knows for sure....

Running it on 220V while strapped for 240 may also be preferable.  EIMAC (tube manufacturer) says a filament voltage reduction of 5% will double the lifetime of the 3-500Z tubes.

It could be COM1 - being a native port on the PC - may be pulling one of the lines to ground while not in use (like Clear to Send [CTS]).  This may be shared with the internal logic as the 'ground to turn off' signal.  When you activate software, the pin is pulled and held high.

Through the USB <-> Serial adapter, this condition does not exist.  Different hardware, different result.

All of this is conjecture, and would take some testing and pouring through the rig's software and schematics to verify.  But it makes sense (I've been working in the computer field for 33 years and the current job that pays for Radios is Senior Network Engineer for the 10th largest private company in the US).  

If you want to dig into this, you'd need a logic probe or Break out Box with line status indicators to see state changes of the various control lines.  Then observe the states of those control lines before and after software activation.  After that, you could experiment with lifting those lines (if using the BoB) to see what condition changes the fault you are observing.

Or, you could replace the cable with a 3 wire cable (TXD, RXD and GND) between the rig and PC.  Might also resolve the issue.

Not sure of all your experiences, but mine have been just the opposite!

In the past 3 months, I've ordered twice from them.  Both times, the E-Mails flowed to keep me abreast of the order status.  I also engaged in a nice exchange about a new product they will soon be bringing to market.

I hope this is a sign the past is just that.  If they offer a product you like, I'd give them another chance.  I know I will!

Not sure of all your experiences, but mine have been just the opposite!

In the past 3 months, I've ordered twice from them.  Both times, the E-Mails flowed to keep me abreast of the order status.  I also engaged in a nice exchange about a new product they will soon be bringing to market.

I hope this is a sign the past is just that.  If they offer a product you like, I'd give them another chance.  I know I will!