I just put up my Cubex 3 element 5 band Quad this past weekend.  Since then, we've been having fairly strong winds with gusts to 25 MPH (55KPH).  My rotor is a Tailtwister that was rebuilt before the install.  I do not see the rocking you mention.  My antenna is at 65 feet (about 20 meters).  It has a 18 foot boom.  Wind speed is from a Davis Provantage 2 weather station mounted on the tower with the sensor at 45 feet.

How strong of a wind are you talking about?  How many degrees of rocking are you seeing?

A big difference between the Yaseu and HyGain is the HyGain uses a wedge brake.  The Yaseu relies on motor torque to hold the antenna in place.  There is no 'brake' in the Yaseu.

Neither if you can.  Wire as a second choice. 6Ga at the minimum, larger is better.  Your first choice should be at lease 1 1/2" copper strap.  It is lower in impedance due to the skin effect.  Tinned braid is not all that low impedance as the current is flowing through the tin and not the copper.  And braid in general will form hundreds of potential points of rectification due to oxidation wherever the individual wires cross.

A good source of copper strap is Georgia Copper.  Click the ad that runs here on eHam. 

ICOM PW-1.  We are the Borg.  Prepare for assimilation.

All,

   Here is my latest experience with I.C.E.:

   I ordered 3 different suppressors on the 5th of Sept.  My CC was charged on the 10th.  I received them today, the 25th.

   I was unable to get a response to my E-Mails on the status of the order.  I finally did get through by phone yesterday only by calling and letting it ring until it timed out.  I then immediately called back.  This resulted in an almost continuous ring at their end.  I kept repeating this until I got an answer.  It took almost 20 times.

   I would say they are not in the customer service business, but rather in the suppressor business.  You be the judge if you wish to place an order.  Would I again?  Yes, but I would plan it out so that I did not need the product for at least 8 weeks.

YMMV

Sorry it appears you are missing what I am trying to get across.  You have to purchase a kit that consists of a LED and resister or go to the local shack/online emporium and order a resister and LED.  It's all the same.

I do not sit in an ivory tower.  I actually live in a house just like you.  I can't look down my nose at anything but my belly.  I have not criticized you, just a few general statements that to me - it's the same. 

You appear to be mixing my comments and those of others.  Please accept I am not responsible for the posts of others.

Well, just a thought.  Don't you still need to install the KIT?  I guess I'm missing something.....

Not defending him.  Just stating both experience and knowledge.

ICE is a little slow on their shipping.  It's a known issue and the various forums have well documented this.  I too am waiting on their products.  I've ordered from them before and it took about 6 to 8 weeks to get in what I ordered.  Overseas, well, now you have to add the snail mail delays as they only ship via the US Postal Service.

The general consensus is ICE is a one man band and he's a very busy one playing a full orchestra.

I puzzles me why hams have to buy a LED lamp replacement kit.  Especially in places where 5 or 12 VDC is already available.  It's just a LED and an appropriate resistor.  Heck, I've even cobbled together a small 5VDC supply fed from the 6VAC filament supply based off a 7805 in my Heathkit to replace the lamps.  I made the change to LEDs in my T2X rotor controller long before Idiom Press came out with a KIT.

Thinks of all the possibilities.  Also, Google "LED Resistor Calculator" and it makes finding out the resistor values a no brainer.

I don't have the Dongle, but I do have the Access Point.  You do not need a static IP address. 

Actually, the hardware problems sound more like a typical MFJ Quality Control issue and not a R&L issue. 

I've dealt with R&L for years.  Both in person, on the web and through a purchasing agent (USAF).  I've always found them helpful, reliable and personable.  The only time I ever witnessed them getting 'out of character' with a customer is when the customer was being wholly unreasonable.  I am not saying you did, just reporting my experiences.

I also don't think the 'Roger' you spoke with is the 'R' in R&L as that was for "Rita" and "Larry".  I knew them both.  They would have to be in their 70's or even 80's by now.

The other end of this spectrum is up here in the Granite State.  I can't go down in most parts of the lawn more than 8 to 10 inches without hitting - yup, you guessed it - Granite.

I have tried to hammer in ground rod and have had to more then up to 6 times before I find a spot it goes all the way in. 

When we dug out the hole for the tower, a full 26% of the material was rock.  Several were to big to lift alone.
 

A lot of it has to do with the availability of phased out P25 public service equipment.  As most Public Service agencies are now moving not only toward P25, but due to FCC mandate toward narrow band FM for Public Service, this equipment becomes available. 

Since hams have been modding mustered out Public Service equipment for years, this is a natural iteration of repeaters.  It's a cheap alternative.  (Hams aren't cheap - are they?)

When I was in High School and attended East Catholic, we had a ham station as part of the physics classroom.  Those high tension lines were making noise way back then (I graduated in '77).

It's also where I learned and earned my original Novice License.

The 4000 lbs Phillystran is equivalent to 3/16" EHS Guy wire.  I just bought a bunch and am putting it up now (lower guys are in place on the tower as of this past weekend).   I seem to recall it's about a buck a foot.  Nothing is cheap about it, but it supposed to last forever.  I found the big grips go on rather easy IF you tension the cable first.  I did this by tying a rope to the end and then a second rope with a cargo strap off between two fixed items.  Follow the directions for wrapping it on.  When terminating it to the anchor end, I used a normal clamp to hold the cable to complete that end.  You lose about 1" this way (cut off the part that was crushed in the clamp).  Again, use a cargo strap to pull initial tension.