Process Explorer might tell you what other modules and DLLs are loaded with the application.  That might provide some insights as to why it is hanging.  http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb896653.aspx

Under Windows 7, hung processes are very frustrating because you can "kill" them many times and yet they will not quit.  I've had some luck with doing a complete uninstall (Revo Uninstaller is helpful), followed by a clean reinstall.

Good luck.

Bob, K0BT

If the programmer uses the PC parallel port, you may need to go into the BIOS and change the port type to "standard", or SPP, whichever your BIOS calls it.  My old programmer and software gives strange results when the port is configured as an enhanced or bi-directional port.

Bart,

I had one years ago and it worked well.  If I recall correctly, mine had lived in a damp environment and I had to take the cover off and re-seat the ICs every few months or so.  It was pure laziness on my part that I didn't fix it the right way.  It was built very well and I would love to find another one some day. 

73,
Bob, K0BT

You might want to look at the "AGS Digital Multi-Clock" gadget for the Windows 7 sidebar.  It can be configured to show any eight time zones.

Thank you to all who replied.  It is always enjoyable to learn something new.

73,
Bob K0BT

The boundary between DM33uq and DM33vq runs through my back yard.  My primary shack is in one grid square and my antenna, which is 150 feet behind the house, is in the other grid square.  I also have an operating position setup in the workshop behind my house that I use during the winter months when it is cool enough to sit out there.  I just swap feed lines and it keeps the XYL happy because she doesn't have to listen to "those radio noises".

This raises a few questions.

1) Should I use the grid square of my station, even though the radiating element is in a different grid square?
2) If someone needed both grid squares, could I simply transmit from both locations?
3) If I run a remote connection to the radio out back, and yet operate from inside the house, which grid square should I use?  The one where I am sitting or the one where the radio and antenna is located?

I'm sure I could make up answers to these questions myself and no one would be the wiser for it, but I like to follow the rules.  Does anyone know the real answers?

Thanks in advance.

Bob
K0BT

Here is a modified SB-221 in the Phoenix area, but it only has five 3-500z tubes for a claimed "4000 bird watts".  The guy must be selling it because he found out someone had one-upped him.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/ele/2651777038.html

If five transistors is "five pills", then what do you call five 3-500zs?

Bob

I finally got an answer to this question from someone very knowledgeable about the FT-1000 series.

"Yaesu did not mark TCXO-1's as such, some were just marked TCXO like yours. I assure you 100% yours is the -1. You can tell because the metal can on a TCXO-1 takes up the whole outline of the square box on the circuit board below it, the plain TCXO is like 25% smaller."

Apparently, many FT-1000D units came from the factory with the TCXO-1 labeled TCXO.  A Google search turns up multiple questions about the FT-1000D TCXO modules because of this.

This topic is of limited interest to most, but I decided to update it in case someone else finds the research useful.

Bob - K0BT

I agree with Lon that you should not just disconnect the fan.  The radio needs air movement to get rid of the heat that builds up even on receive.  One way to modify the fan is to simply run it at a much lower speed 100% of the time instead of listening to it switch on and off.  If you do this, then the radio stays cooler than it does when you allow the heatsink to warm to a preset temperature and the switch on the fan to cool it back to room temperature.  The constant on/off is annoying to a lot of people.  

Google "FT-980 service manual" and the first result should be a page at dxzone.com that will let you download a free copy.  Looking at the schematics on page 85 and 91, you will see that the fan is fed from +13.5.  The fan is usually turned on by switching the negative fan lead to ground with a transistor (Q03 on the control unit).  The switching transistor is activated by thermistors across J01 and J02 that control op-amp Q01.  

Adding a 100 ohm 3-watt resistor between the motor negative lead (J03 pin 2 on the control board or J04 pin 2 on the PA board) and ground might keep the motor running at a low speed all the time while still allowing the motor to switch on at close to normal speeds if needed.  If this were a squirrel cage motor I wouldn't try it because those need bit of a kick to get them spinning.  Since this is a bladed fan it might work but it depends on the  starting torque of the motor.  You'd need to experiment a bit.

A different approach is to use a small 12v computer style fan and run it all the time if you can find a way to wedge it in there or tie wrap it to the back grill.  A SileneX or equivalent fan is extremely quiet - even more so if you put a resistor in series with it.  If an additional fan cools the radio enough, the original fan won't come on.  It doesn't take a lot of airflow to keep the heat under control if you only use the radio for receive.  You might even be able to remove the original fan and replace it with a computer fan as long as you don't transmit.  If you want to try that, a 2700 ohm resistor across J01 (the thermistor jumper) on the control board would probably keep the fan running all the time at low speed.  Keep in mind though that a computer fan won't move enough air if you transmit.

The standard caveat applies:  Try this at your own risk.  I hope it will give you a starting point if you decide to experiment.

Bob - K0BT

 

The humming/buzzing noise turned out to be the motor.  I replaced the original 24v DC motor with one from a Toshiba squirrel cage fan and the fan is now much quieter even as it moves the same amount of air.  

Allen,

Your suggestion prompted me to take the entire fan apart, including disassembling the motor.  The motor and bearings are good, the stator assembly isn't loose, the bearings are good, and the fan works fine.  I'm wondering if the sound is inherent to the motor that Yaesu used and if all of the FT-1000 series make a humming noise in the 100 to 400 Hz range.  I can see why this is such a popular radio.  It is built like a tank.

Thanks for the reply.

Bob

Chuck,

A utility called (appropriately enough) "PC Decrapifier" will detect and blow away all the crap and trial software .  It works and it is free.  Funny how there's enough annoyance out there for someone to write a program to address it...

Bob,
K0BT

Scotchbrite pads work well on aluminum and are more easier to use than steel wool.  You can also buy the more abrasive version of the green pot scrubbers at the grocery store.  I haven't found a good chemical solution but maybe someone else can offer us both a better idea.

Bob
K0BT

I just got a FT-1000D and the fan motor makes a buzzing/growling noise on low speed.  It's not horrible, but it is noticeable.  Is this normal?  I've read the reviews and a good number of owners comment on fan noise.  Do all of these radios make this buzzing motor noise, or are the reviewers just talking about the airflow sounds? 

Edit: 5/19/11 - After finding a service manual, I learned out that the TCXO and TCXO-1 use the exact same circuit board and component values.  The only difference is the high-precision oscillator module in the metal shield.