__If you cannot find the noise source, I'd vote IC-7000, then IC-7200.  Of the radio's I've used, these two were able to address a large number of differing noises while impacting the desired signal as little as possible.  Being able to configure both noise amplitude and blanking width seems to help.  The IC-7000 has a wider "roofing" filter which would allow the DSP a better view of pulse noise as it has not been stretched by a 'narrow' filter.   Of course a wider filter also means strong signals within +/- 10 to 15KHz may impact your reception, but I don't see this all that often on my IC-7000.
__If there is one primary noise source , a noise phasing device like the ANC-4 or MFJ-1026 can be very helpful, but if you are plagued by many sources this is a dead end street.
Best wishes on less QRM,    Tom WB1FPA

From the front of the 2C, on the left side , there is a slide switch to select the external crystal for auxiliary coverage, or the internal crystals for 40-20-15 & 10M.    Make certain the slide switch is in the normal position (not towards the little crystal socket).   Tom  WB1FPA

___I've got a number of RFI free LED bulbs in my home, but I did send a few from eBay vendors to ARRL.  They were unbelievably noisy.  How so much noise could come from such a small object was amazing.   Quiet bulbs were from GLB (used to be @ Cyberguys) and Miracle Bulb.   The Miracle bulbs are stroboscopic like fluorescent bulbs, so 100% use of them cannot be recommended for families with members that are sensitive to flashing strobes. 
___I'd say buy from reputable vendors and return them if there is RFI.
73,  Tom WB1FPA

Emmett,  The Pellet Stove's RF interception can be from one or a combination of causes.  It's likely to have an exhaust pipe that resembles a vertical antenna which may couple to the OCF antenna's coax, perhaps a balanced multi-band antenna like a G5RV may help in this case since it would have less RF radiation from its feedline.  Your OCF dipole will indeed have antenna current flowing on the outside of it coax feedline.   Do you have a method of removing those currents before entry into the 'shack'?   Start with a ground rod, and consider laying a 2-4 radials of 15-30 feet out on the yard (burial of these can wait till spring).  Tie the radials to the ground rod, tie the shield of your feedline to the ground rod.  This can help encourage the RF current not to follow the coax into the 'shack' area by taking a detour onto the ground system.
___That being said, antennas radiate, which means their fields can couple to other objects (you couldn't make a Yagi beam antenna if this weren't true).   So there is still a way to move electrons based on your antenna's radiated signal, the antenna can couple RF to the AC power lines in the house based on how close the antenna is to the wiring.  Ferrites on the AC power cord of the Pellet Stove may help reduce the RF current level flowing on the wiring of the Pellet Stove.  Even then, if the internal sensors and control computer are RF sensitive, the best option may be to try a different antenna placement further away from the house (higher would be great, but all of these changes don't always fit your lot, which makes Ham Radio a lot different than commercial broadcasting).  Best wishes for a simple solution.   73,  Tom Howey  WB1FPA

Steve,   I agree with WX7G, check your own place first.   Unfortunately, there are so many sources of noise out there now, that not having noise at an apartment set up would be like winning the lottery.   Some of the LED bulbs being marketed are dirty beyond belief, switching supply chargers for cell phones, computers, routers and other devices can be very noisy.   On an indoor dipole I use in the summer, I've been chasing an external noise which seems to be 'riding' in on the cable TV line, old unused telco line or the AC mains.  It's S9 white noise till some hurricane comes along and I have no noise for the duration of the neighborhood power outage.  In this case, I've killed power to all the branches, and as WX7G recommends, I power my FT-857D from a 12V 7AH gel-cell.
      If all efforts come up empty, I could suggest using a device like the MFJ-1026 or Timewave-JPS ANC-4 noise canceller.  They can work, but often have limited success with multiple noise sources.
      Best wishes in the noise hunt.    Tom  WB1FPA

Dirk,
    If I remember the FT-950 correctly, the receive signal can be routed thru an external device by pressing the u-Tune button to indicate that you wish to use the RF u Tuning  unit (which will be the MFJ-1026 in this case).   The receive antenna signal is then input/output via U-Tune phono jacks on the left side of the rear panel below the ground lug. 
    I used the inexpensive MFJ preselector in this manner with the FT-950.  It avpids the need to do any TR switching as its all handled by the radio.  I wish all radios has this loop, the last one prior to the FT-950 that I've used was the Icom IC-735, that's going back in time a bit too much . . .
   Best regards,  Tom Howey  WB1FPA
          -= = = = = = = = = = = -

Tom,
     Looking at your NC-190 radio's schematic, the most likely culprit is an aging R15 (18meg Ohms marked brown-gray-blue) resistor from the +145 supply to the AGC line, its on the schematic below V4.  As these carbon resistors get old, some succumb to moisture and drop in value.   If that resistor dropped far enough it would inhibit the AGC and force all of the stages into full gain, making even the cathode RF/IF gain control difficult to use.
      Once the AGC is working, this was an advanced design that included AGC for CW/SSB and a product detector.  This radio switches from a 2215KHz 1st IF on upper bands to a 230KHz IF on lower bands, something that current radios like the IC-7000 or TS-2000 still do (over a much wider freq range).
      Any value from 15M <> 20M would work fine.  In fact, the radio might do just fine without it?
           73 & good troubleshooting.    Tom Howey  WB1FPA
                                                        =       =       =

I think you are referring to "current bunching" when turns of a multi-turn loop are spaced at less than 10 times the diameter of conductor.   While there was much stated about the MFJ loops versus the AEA loop, I have never read a credible source state there was a difference unless the loop was multi-turn in nature.
       73,  Tom Howey  WB1FPA
                = = = = = = = =

Joe,     Find a nice FT-900 and call it good.   The 900 doesn't hear its own display noise on 15M (as did the 890 I had), has good QSK, a great internal tuner, and it just plain works.   Small.  If you need a CW filter, any of the Collins filters that INRAD has at 455 KHz can be wired into the rig and the 2k I/O impedance will work just fine.   The 890 is good too!

John,
     I've been using RT-11's remotely for >5 years.   I use the MFJ bias-tee and place the operating voltage onto the coax.  Out at the antenna feedpoint, inside the RT-11, I make a .03 cap by placing three .01 1000V disc caps in parallel, in series with the input SO-239 to block the DC.   Then I pick off the DC with a 120uH choke which I purchased from Yaesu as a replacement for the choke they use inside the FT-857/897.    You can purchase the choke that MFJ uses inside their Bias-T a a replacement part.   I believe its a 100uH unit.  The RF choke is mounted to the center pin of the input SO-239 and the flying lead has a .01 cap to ground (RF bypass) and a wire to the +Vcc on the tuner chassis.    This delivers all the power the tuner needs, whenever it needs it.
      Tune up is as follows.   Find your frequency of interest or one nearby where you won't create interference to others,   apply low level RF (I use the AM mode) and then turn power on to the bias-T system.    Observe the RT-11 tuning.   When the SWR has been resolved, turn off power to the RT-11 at the bias-T.   You are now set to operate.
      Keep in mind that the max inductance is 20uH and the maximum shunt capacitance is 3400pF , so and RT11 has its limitations.  (An SGC SG-230 has 64uH max -L and atleast double the max capacitance.)
      Best regards,     Tom Howey  WB1FPA

Chris,
    I've used the 817, 897D, and 857D.  I like the 857D the best.   Although its fans make more noise when transmitting, the lighted buttons and control layout can become second nature after some use, and the display is easier on my eyes.  There are good CW filters available from W4RT and INRAD for a lot less than the equivalent Yaesu.   The stock Murata K14 SSB is 2.4 KHz wide and although it's response is not perfectly symmetrical, it does a good job (especially when compared to the wider unit (K5 @ 2.9 KHz) used by Icom in the IC-718 and by Alinco in the DX-SR8.
     I've put a TCXO-9 into my 857D but it was fine without it as well.   A 20 hertz warm-up drift (about 15 minutes) at 15MHz seems quite reasonable.   I use the MH-59 control mic and have learned its functions.   The TX audio seems to get through well.  The pre-2008 radios were 'tinny', but not a problem now.
     Now the down side.  The 817, 857, 897 and the Kenwood TS-2000 radios have the "new" ROHS AM filters in them.   Neither Yaesu , nor Kenwood have placed the DC blocking caps into the circuit for these new filters.  Quite a few of the guys buying these rigs now have had to pay for repairs that still don't have the needed parts.   Therefor, some have paid more than once to get rid of the loud random popping noises that the filters can eventually make when DC votage is applied to their terminals.  Unless you are well skilled in working with surface mount parts,  I simply could not advise the purchase of any of these rigs till these Manufacturers do their job updating thier radios.
     So, here's my monkey wrench.    When you get a chance to trial the new rigs, spend some time with the IC-7200 and the FT-450D.    They both cover 160M<>6M. For the dollars spent, they do a very good job.   This does mean that 2M (or 2M/70cM) will need coverage from a separate radio (additional $$$).
      Best regards,    Tom Howey  WB1FPA   

__I'd go with the IC-7000 if noise elimination is a prime concern.  The DSP noise blanker and DSP noise reduction work very well.  I've used a Yaesu FT-857D since 2004 here, but did have an IC-7000 for a while when I had S9+20 line noise.   The IC-7000 dealt with that noise better than any rig I tried (while waiting 18 months for the Power Company to finish rebuilding a section of 760kV line).  Rigs I tried were; Kenwood TS-2000, TS-570SG, Icom IC-7000, Yaesu FT-857D, FT450.   All handled the noise fairly well, but the IC-7000 handled the noise without altering the sound of the voices of the hams I talked to.
__If you decide to go with the IC-7000, see the PA7FA fan mods, & consider the AB5N mic mod.   I found both to be worthwhile.   Best regards,  Tom Howey WB1FPA

Ernie,
     I've owned both the DX-70T and the DX-77T over the years.   I'd use another DX-70T without reserve.   It was 90% good.   I'd dock it points for a poor Noise Blanker, and perhaps the lack of a data connector (other than the Mic connector).   The unit had good Tx audio, very good selectivity, and a nice compromise of filtering (tunes in 25Hz increments).   The FM filter was used  for AM, so 10M and 6M FM were good, but shortwave listening was too broad except for signals without adjacent channels being in use.  The CW filtering was the inexpensive Murata CFJ455K8 which is somewhere between 1.0 and 1.5KHz wide.  This was followed by a 500Hz analog AF filter.   It sounds like a 600Hz IF filter.  This same filter is available for SSB narrow or PSK/digital.   All in all it would be hard to offer more for less (unless someone actually markets an IF DSP radio for what it really costs instead of telling us how much better it is).  The DX-70T is also quit stable considering it has separate carrier oscillators and reference oscillator.
      The DX-77T was OK.   Tunes in 10Hz increments.  It needed mods.  The AGC distorted SSB reception, and a 1uF ceramic cap was needed across the AGC line to ground to fix it.   The radio's Rx audio squawked when transmitting SSB, so there is another mod to quiet that down.   The CW and SSB crystal filters are a treat, and if it weren't for an AM component feeding through the SSB audio (down about 30dB) it would be real close to ideal.   The noise blanker was not good in this unit either.
       The DX-SR8 seems like a DX-77T size radio with the features of the DX-70T , but no 6 meters.  I've never used one. At its current price, I'm sure its OK, but after reading about the DDS oscillator responding to the units fan while in transmit, I'd be back to the DX-70T.   It may represent Alinco's HF high-water mark to date.
        73,   Tom Howey  WB1FPA

___The only indoor antennas I've used that allowed reasonable reception have been shielded loops.  My first was a AL4 sitting atop a Drake SPR-4 receiver 30 years ago.  The last was a Wellbrook AL1530 a few years ago.   Its generally much cheaper to place the antenna out doors (considering a Wellbrook can set you back $350-400. In the latter case, the loop seemed blissfully unaware of all the noises generated by my computer, scanner, printer, laptop power supply, Astron SS-25 power supply, Panasonic microwave oven, downstairs bathroom light dimmer, electronically run Samsung front loader washer, and even the 15.734 KHz TV high voltage 'birdies' were pretty far down when compared to a wire in the attic.   My antennas are out in the trees now, even for my receivers (IC-PCR1000 & FRG-100).  Better reception, less $$$.   You could say the sale of the loop funded at least one of the receivers...
___A small version of the G5RV would serve the PCR1000 well.  You need two 25' pieces of wire, and perhaps 16-17 feet of TV twinlead.   Plenty of other choices, and lots of Web based articles showing 'how to' make antennas.
___You're right, the trend has been ever increasing noise levels.  I don't think the trend is going to change any time soon.   

Ben,
___You didn't mention the type(s) of antenna(s) you are using with the IC-PCR1000.  The antenna and its placement can make a difference.  Do you have room to space the receive antenna away from other residences (as well as yours)?  Are you using an active antenna?  If its an active whip, it needs to have a 'noise' ground on its feedline.   Ferrite beads sound like a good idea till you realize the input impedance of the active whip is about 100,000 ohms.  That about 100 ferrite beads (or more) to place a 3dB hurt on the noise. 
___Check out the Wellbrook Receiving Loops.   They cost $$$, but are self balancing with respect to noise, and do not respond to electrostatic fields nearby (far away RFI has achieved the normal balance between electrostatic and electromagnetic fields and gets picked up by all antennas, unless they are dierectional and not looking towards the RFI source).
___Let us know your antenna set up.  Also, the PCR1000 is very easily overloaded, so it can take strong signals and spread them to frequencies that they aren't really on.
          73,  Tom  WB1FPA